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42" OLED MASTER THREAD

improwise said:
And yet there are still people claiming that their particual units does not have this problem and has perfect blacks even in a bright room :)
Click to expand...
Well, if they don't have an LG panel OLED to compare-----its likely their comparison is whatever IPS or VA panel they were using before. And as I stated earlier in the thread, OLED will still look better, even in poor lighting conditions. Because the underlying panel still has per pixel lighting. With an IPS or VA, the underlying panel still has all the light bleed, glow, uniformity problems, etc. Like I said, go into Costco, OLED still look great in there, compared to most of the other screens there. Albeit LG panels in particular.
 
I would absolutely agree with that if you can always control your lighting or have very dark room C2 coating is amazing.
But reality is that some people can't do that. I also can't place my screens so the window is behind. Sometimes i play games in that living room with other family members doing different things, and can't force them to sit in darkness.
Maybe room is actually not that bright and that's why blacks don't look that bad compared to C2.
Basically QD-Oled is more flexible for me. I can use it in any lighting condition in this room. For C2 to avoid distracting reflections room has to be almost dark.
I still like this LG screen, but I will keep it in the bedroom for best experience.

Another observation I have is that on C2 color banding, and text clarity is worse and pink tint on WBE panel is kinda distracting when displaying full white screen.
 
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krisdee said:
I would absolutely agree with that if you can always control your lighting or have very dark room C2 coating is amazing.
But reality is that some people can't do that. I also can't place my screens so the window is behind. Sometimes i play games in that living room with other family members doing different things, and can't force them to sit in darkness.
Maybe room is actually not that bright and that's why blacks don't look that bad compared to C2.
Basically QD-Oled is more flexible for me. I can use it in any lighting condition in this room. For C2 to avoid distracting reflections room has to be almost dark.
I still like this LG screen, but I will keep it in the bedroom for best experience.

Another observation I have is that on C2 color banding, and text clarity is worse and pink tint on WBE panel is kinda distracting when displaying full white screen.
Click to expand...
You can get LG panels from monitor brands, with matte coatings ;)
 
chameleoneel said:
You can get LG panels from monitor brands, with matte coatings ;)
Click to expand...
Matt coating look disgusting. I hate that grainy look and vaseline-like patches of glare🤮
o6mhzlcks2u91.jpg

I was looking at that for almost 20 years.
Leave matte for office and spreadsheet 😉
Like I said already for avarge room lighting QD-Oled or LG G3 coatings have perfect balance.
Good blacks, good reflection handling, and nice clarity without grain.


What's the point to have darker coating in very bright to avarge room lighting if you can't see sh... in dark scenes.
CX.jpg

Look at this mirror on the left, and don't tell me that S95C has bad blacks here.
Some people love to defend one technology or even one manufacturer. People have to be more open minded.
I have at the minute C2, Aw3423dwf and Sony 55Xh9505 and I like all these screens for different reasons.

BTW xh9505(x950h in US) does have very nice coating for LCD that look darker in the bright room vs typical semigloss TV, but you absolutely can't have direct reflections, or you will get terrible looking rainbow.
Of course you also getting wider viewing angles, very important for VA LCDs. One downside however native contrast is lower.
IMG_20231202_121818.jpg
 
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The light is polluting both of those monitors because he has both of them facing a direct light source. They both look bad to me.

Direct light sources hitting a screen are going to pollute the screen surface regardless. Some (many?) people are using their screens in poor setups. It's just like audio or photography - you should set up your environment to suit your hardware/screen not the other way around imo.

S9gqCVy.png




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Since traditionally desks have been laid out up against the wall like a bookshelf, or upright piano with sheet music against a wall - most setups act like a catcher's mitt for direct light source pollution from behind and overhead. Professional/reference monitors often come with a hood that covers the top and some of the sides, like some production cameras have. Light pollution (as well as allowing lighting conditions to change throughout the day) will alter/pollute how even a calibrated screen's values are seen and perceived.

The direct light source vectors hitting the matte or ag screens will blow out contrast and pale saturation, washing out areas of the screen they hit and are diffused onto. Allowing lighting conditions to change will also alter the way our eyes/brain perceives the screen's contrast and saturation so even their "calibrated" values will be lost to your eyes and brain. E.g. the screen will look more pale, weakly contrasted and undersaturated the brighter the room gets, and vice versa. Some keep several sets of settings so that they can switch between them for different times of the day or different room lighting conditions. So you are going to get compromised results if you don't design your viewing environment more optimally no matter what screen coating you have.

. . . . . . . . . .

From TFTcentral review of the PG42UQ:


The PG42UQ features a more traditional monitor-like matte anti-glare coating, as opposed to a glossy panel coating like you’d find on TV’s including the LG C2. This does a very good job of reducing reflections and handling external light sources like windows and lamps and we noticed much better reflection handling (no surprise) than the LG C2. However this does mean that in some conditions the blacks do not look as deep or inky visually to the user. With this being an OLED panel, famous for its true blacks and amazing contrast ratio this could be considered a problem – are you “wasting” that by having an AG coating that reduces your perceived contrast?
Click to expand...
.
In certain conditions blacks look a little more dark grey as the anti-reflective coating reflects some of the surrounding light back at you and it “dulls” the contrast a bit. The anti-glare coating means the image is not as clear and clean as a fully glossy coating. You don’t get this same effect if the coating is fully glossy as there’s no AG layer, but what you do get instead is more reflections. Don’t forget this same thing applies to all AG coated desktop monitors, you have the same impact on perceived black depth and contrast on IPS, TN Film and VA panels depending on your lighting conditions if there’s an AG coating used. You’d still get better relative blacks and contrast on the OLED (not to mention other benefits) compared with LCD technologies. They are all impacted in the same way by their coatings.
Click to expand...

While they are concentrating on how it affects the blacks which is bad enough, it can also degrade the color saturation as it creates a haze.
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hardforum.com/threads/do-glossy-displays-require-dark-rooms Post #27
Or course you are seeing this picture below on whatever screen surface you are using at the moment so it's more of a simulation. ;)

matte-glossy.jpg


. . . . . .

https://euro.dough.tech/blogs/news/matte-vs-glossy-gaming-monitors-technology-explained


7fc6daaf63fa0869961e502ac6cb4fb2e99b179e_480x480.jpg




86e018a65e7c6b031682e3cf01edec16b7b177d6_480x480.jpg




075c78e242e254fd3f497774caaceadd54b947ba_480x480.jpg



subpixel photo the euro.dough.tech site referenced from TFTcentral:


d3047e25cf1e8c6b2679bd7aeaf8a0b7612859e4_480x480.png





bee01dbf0c7a3ed7446fb60e138e8d0a6196b2d6_480x480.jpg
Click to expand...



...

I see it like putting a high end speaker system into a fairly noisy room where you can't place the speakers where they should be optimally. You aren't going to get the best listening in that environment. Sound pollution ~ light pollution, and placement that isn't optimal.

It really depends on your priorities. What are you focusing on? A large screen (at least to your perspective) representing hdr film scenes, hdr gaming worlds virtually that you are trying to immerse yourself into as an experience or are you trying to just look at an animated diorama box in an insistent bright room full of light pollution, and in some cases noise and other distractions? Obviously people's living environments and lives, personal choices, etc. can vary quite a bit so everyone doesn't have the same luxury or desire to use visual systems or sound systems in the same ways.

. . . .

Some people will use noise cancelling headphones in a room full of people and for the most part are ignoring everyone while using their gaming screen. I don't think everyone in a room typically wants to hear a video game's noise while they are doing other things. So the doing your own thing while also trying to in a quasi-social environment/state can be an odd thing (at least to me). The stereotypical guy yelling at the football/hockey game on tv in his own world while the wife and others are having full conversations on a completely different wavelength/topic, maybe some music clashing with all of the other audio levels. Another analogy would be watching a movie screen in a restaurant with large un-shuttered windows, room lighting, and several other patrons chatting in the room (possibly even messing with their phones, clanking plates incidentally, etc). Could it be enjoyable? Sure. Would it be degrading the quality of the screen, sound, and the immersion into the film experience? Definitely. That's a lot of generalization but I'm just trying to show that that kind of thing is not really comparing apples to apples in usage scenarios / priorities.


. . .

I'm looking forward to AR/MR/XR screens that are very high rez in the years ahead. There are electrochromatic XR glasses that darken the see-through lenses by stages dark and darker with a finger press to make the screen contrast better since the outer "sunglasses" themselves are transparent, but I think in the long run future glasses/goggles would be best if they had that plus the option to switch over completely to a broadcast from front facing mini cameras on the sides of the lenses as a high rez video feed + the virtual screen / objects. That would allow for full contrast and no effect of light vs the virtual screen's parameters when you wanted to view it that way. Perhaps the vision pro, meta pass-through, and XR lens tech will overlap/merge by 2027 - 2030 (hoping).
 
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elvn said:
It really depends on your priorities. What are you focusing on? A large screen (at least to your perspective) representing hdr film scenes, hdr gaming worlds virtually that you are trying to immerse yourself into as an experience or are you trying to just look at an animated diorama box in an insistent bright room full of light pollution, and in some cases noise and other distractions?
Click to expand...
I was looking for the HDR screen that looks great in dark room, but also is useable in average lighting(C2 isn't), and I think I found that screen for now. I'm sure they will do better in the future with screen coatings. For example people(even purist) are very happy with LG G3. Reflection handling is great, but apparently in brighter rooms blacks are deeper than the QD-Oled.
And yeah I'm using noise cancelling Headphones when gaming.
IMG_20231202_191413.jpg

IMG_20231202_191453.jpg

IMG_20231202_191526.jpg

Is G3 really that much better 🤔
Just looks like different shade of grey. I would need to see it live.
I already made big mistake in the past judging AW3423DWF from pictures online😉
 
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krisdee said:
I was looking for the HDR screen that looks great in dark room, but also is useable in average lighting(C2 isn't), and I think I found that screen for now.
Click to expand...
All the LG WOLEDs have pretty low SDR brightness, so they are unlikely to perform any better.

For me the LG CX 48" was perfectly fine in "average lighting". Reflections only became an issue on very bright summer days because light from my balcony was reflecting off the wall behind me, and then onto the TV. LCDs honestly were just as problematic in this situation, the light just diffused differently rather than being pinsharp reflections.
 
kasakka said:
All the LG WOLEDs have pretty low SDR brightness, so they are unlikely to perform any better.

For me the LG CX 48" was perfectly fine in "average lighting". Reflections only became an issue on very bright summer days because light from my balcony was reflecting off the wall behind me, and then onto the TV. LCDs honestly were just as problematic in this situation, the light just diffused differently rather than being pinsharp reflections.
Click to expand...
Of course they are fine in average lighting, MLA panels seem to be noticeable better though than non MLA.
 
kasakka said:
All the LG WOLEDs have pretty low SDR brightness, so they are unlikely to perform any better.

For me the LG CX 48" was perfectly fine in "average lighting". Reflections only became an issue on very bright summer days because light from my balcony was reflecting off the wall behind me, and then onto the TV. LCDs honestly were just as problematic in this situation, the light just diffused differently rather than being pinsharp reflections.
Click to expand...
If you consider 450 nits "low," then yes.
 
kasakka said:
Since when do LG WOLEDs have that high brightness in SDR?
Click to expand...
SDR is mastered for 120nits, so 450nits is more than enough for intended viewing.
HDR performance is also superior to any LCD, only OLEDs can produce convincing highlights without making every adjacent darker spot glow.
LCD HDR only does "well" in test patterns, but on real content, it's a whole fucking different story.
 
kasakka said:
And those modes outside PC/Gaming mode you wouldn't want to use with a computer since the input lag gets horrible.
Click to expand...

It probably does 450 nits up to a certain point but the full field brightness will still be limited to around 100 nits anyway. There's no way in hell it does 450 nits fullfield.
 
MistaSparkul said:
It probably does 450 nits up to a certain point but the full field brightness will still be limited to around 100 nits anyway. There's no way in hell it does 450 nits fullfield.
Click to expand...
Can confirm that the ABL kicks in quickly on a fullscreen white with those settings. It backs down to around 200 nits with peak brightness enabled.
 
I notice Costco has the LG C3 42 inch on sale for $899. I don't think I'm going to end up liking it, and normally I wouldn't even try it (since it doesn't have a curve and it's 4k, which is going to be hard to drive), but since it's Costco I'm willing to give it a shot. A 90 day return policy will do that.

Is there just some "quick start" FAQ that I should follow as to how to get it up and running for PC use with my 4090?
 
StoleMyOwnCar said:
I notice Costco has the LG C3 42 inch on sale for $899. I don't think I'm going to end up liking it, and normally I wouldn't even try it (since it doesn't have a curve and it's 4k, which is going to be hard to drive), but since it's Costco I'm willing to give it a shot. A 90 day return policy will do that.

Is there just some "quick start" FAQ that I should follow as to how to get it up and running for PC use with my 4090?
Click to expand...
I have the 42 C2, when I was still running a 3090 I ran some games at 1440P and they still looked perfectly fine. OLED is just too good to let go and $899 is a good price.
 
StoleMyOwnCar said:
I notice Costco has the LG C3 42 inch on sale for $899. I don't think I'm going to end up liking it, and normally I wouldn't even try it (since it doesn't have a curve and it's 4k, which is going to be hard to drive), but since it's Costco I'm willing to give it a shot. A 90 day return policy will do that.

Is there just some "quick start" FAQ that I should follow as to how to get it up and running for PC use with my 4090?
Click to expand...
Just have it plugged into your PC before turning it on for the first time. First time setup will automatically detect what kind of devices you have connected to each of the HDMI inputs and set them up correctly for you, including setting the input to "PC" for PC mode. Only thing I had to do on my C3 was enable G-SYNC compatibility manually using the "game" menu for G-SYNC to work.
 
StoleMyOwnCar said:
I notice Costco has the LG C3 42 inch on sale for $899. I don't think I'm going to end up liking it, and normally I wouldn't even try it (since it doesn't have a curve and it's 4k, which is going to be hard to drive), but since it's Costco I'm willing to give it a shot. A 90 day return policy will do that.

Is there just some "quick start" FAQ that I should follow as to how to get it up and running for PC use with my 4090?
Click to expand...
Here are some links for ya:

https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gamin...ingpc_monitor_recommended_settings/?rdt=57603

If you prefer a video walking you through:
https://tftcentral.co.uk/videos/guide-lg-c3-oled-best-settings-for-pc

My experience with my CX was not like that of Armenius. I had to adjust several things in order to get the full capabilities out of it. I had to set the PC input on top of a few other things - maybe it's changed since the CX? I haven't used my 42C2 with a computer yet as it's pulling bedroom duty.

Wasn't hard and probably only took 10m, but I definitely remember having to adjust several bits and bobs in the TV menu and NVCP.
 
For me the most annoying thing about the CX has been removing the fake "4096x" resolution from the EDID that Windows and some games otherwise use (I've had to re-do it a few times following some updates, like once a year or so). Hopefully not an issue anymore with the more recent models!
 
Lateralus said:
Here are some links for ya:

https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gamin...ingpc_monitor_recommended_settings/?rdt=57603

If you prefer a video walking you through:
https://tftcentral.co.uk/videos/guide-lg-c3-oled-best-settings-for-pc

My experience with my CX was not like that of Armenius. I had to adjust several things in order to get the full capabilities out of it. I had to set the PC input on top of a few other things - maybe it's changed since the CX? I haven't used my 42C2 with a computer yet as it's pulling bedroom duty.

Wasn't hard and probably only took 10m, but I definitely remember having to adjust several bits and bobs in the TV menu and NVCP.
Click to expand...

That is definitely the case with the CX. Guess they refined it over the years to make it easier to setup.
 
DooLocsta said:
I have the 42 C2, when I was still running a 3090 I ran some games at 1440P and they still looked perfectly fine. OLED is just too good to let go and $899 is a good price.
Click to expand...

I wish there was a price tracker (like PCPartpicker has) for these OLED displays. I can't really tell if $900 is ACTUALLY a good deal for this. But it's Costco, as I said, so I'm more likely to give it a try. With regards to 1440p, like you said, this was something I thought about later. No one ever brought it up as a counterpoint when I was hating on 4k displays, but you're quite right. I could simply drive the game at 1440p and it would probably be fine.

Armenius said:
Just have it plugged into your PC before turning it on for the first time. First time setup will automatically detect what kind of devices you have connected to each of the HDMI inputs and set them up correctly for you, including setting the input to "PC" for PC mode. Only thing I had to do on my C3 was enable G-SYNC compatibility manually using the "game" menu for G-SYNC to work.
Click to expand...

So it requires an HDMI cable? I hope whatever it comes with is long enough, or I just happen to have a compatible one sitting around. Most of my high end cables are DP.

Does it actually have real G-Sync, or is it just a G-Sync compatible Freesync implementation?

Lateralus said:
Here are some links for ya:

https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gamin...ingpc_monitor_recommended_settings/?rdt=57603

If you prefer a video walking you through:
https://tftcentral.co.uk/videos/guide-lg-c3-oled-best-settings-for-pc

My experience with my CX was not like that of Armenius. I had to adjust several things in order to get the full capabilities out of it. I had to set the PC input on top of a few other things - maybe it's changed since the CX? I haven't used my 42C2 with a computer yet as it's pulling bedroom duty.

Wasn't hard and probably only took 10m, but I definitely remember having to adjust several bits and bobs in the TV menu and NVCP.
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot for this. I'm reading the spreadsheet, and noticed two things:

Weaknesses of LG WOLED relative to Samsung QD-OLED:
-Lower color gamut: 75% vs 90% Rec.2020
Click to expand...

I looked at the RTings review, and they said it has wide gamut, though. I'm a bit confused about this.

-Assess for dead pixels by looking at fullscreen colors: https://www.eizo.be/monitor-test/
--Dead pixels frequently develop over time. Consider purchasing a 3 to 5- year protection plan (such as BestBuy GeekSquad) to protect against dead pixels or burn-in. Read terms carefully.
-Protect panel from temporary image retention and burn-in by using settings provided in this guide and common sense best practices (e.g. don't leave static images on screen, etc).
Click to expand...

This also has me a bit worried. Costco supposedly extends the warranty to 5 years or something, but I have no idea what their terms are for that...
 
StoleMyOwnCar said:
So it requires an HDMI cable? I hope whatever it comes with is long enough, or I just happen to have a compatible one sitting around. Most of my high end cables are DP.
Click to expand...
It only has HDMI inputs. An ultra high speed cable that is no longer than 3 meters is needed to get the best quality signal at high bandwidth usage. You can try what you have, but if you can't set the refresh rate to 120 Hz at 4K with HDR without issue then you need a new cable.
StoleMyOwnCar said:
Thanks a lot for this. I'm reading the spreadsheet, and noticed two things:

I looked at the RTings review, and they said it has wide gamut, though. I'm a bit confused about this.

This also has me a bit worried. Costco supposedly extends the warranty to 5 years or something, but I have no idea what their terms are for that...
Click to expand...
Don't worry about that Reddit post. That spreadsheet contains a whole lot of nothing to worry about along with wrong information. Just watch the TFT Central review and/or look at the Rtings review. If I'm not mistaken the UI experience is the same between the C2 and C3.
 
Well, I had to order one online since it's not in stock at the store. I put in a little extra for express shipping since otherwise it would take 11 days to get here which is kind of ridiculous. What's weird is they charged my credit card and then I saw a refund for most of it on my credit card afterwards. But the order still looks fine and says it's in progress. I'm kind of confused. The 5 year warranty extension is offered by Allstate. I'm not sure how good they are...

Again, not expecting to like it over my current stacked 34 inch ultrawide setup, but we'll see I guess.
 
StoleMyOwnCar said:
Well, I had to order one online since it's not in stock at the store. I put in a little extra for express shipping since otherwise it would take 11 days to get here which is kind of ridiculous. What's weird is they charged my credit card and then I saw a refund for most of it on my credit card afterwards. But the order still looks fine and says it's in progress. I'm kind of confused. The 5 year warranty extension is offered by Allstate. I'm not sure how good they are...

Again, not expecting to like it over my current stacked 34 inch ultrawide setup, but we'll see I guess.
Click to expand...
Be sure you do actually have a nice HDMI cable before arrival. I tried to use my old Monoprice (HIGHSPEED) HDMI cable and would constantly get blinks on screen. I ordered some inexpensive 8K cable off Amazon and it has been perfect.
 
Armenius said:
It only has HDMI inputs. An ultra high speed cable that is no longer than 3 meters is needed to get the best quality signal at high bandwidth usage. You can try what you have, but if you can't set the refresh rate to 120 Hz at 4K with HDR without issue then you need a new cable.
Click to expand...
DooLocsta said:
Be sure you do actually have a nice HDMI cable before arrival. I tried to use my old Monoprice (HIGHSPEED) HDMI cable and would constantly get blinks on screen. I ordered some inexpensive 8K cable off Amazon and it has been perfect.
Click to expand...

Cheapest suggestion? I'm surprised it doesn't just come with a cable at this price. Then again Samsung released that micro port monitor and didn't provide much with it...
 
I'm going to have to order the 10 foot version of it, since it looks like the ports are on the left side. I hope it still works fine over the 6 foot version.
 
My DP cables are Club3D. I'll see if this cheaper 10 foot cable works for now. If not, I'll swap it for a Club3D. How do you "stress test" cable bandwidth? Just run stuff at 120Hz?
 
StoleMyOwnCar said:
I'm going to have to order the 10 foot version of it, since it looks like the ports are on the left side. I hope it still works fine over the 6 foot version.
Click to expand...
10' should be fine. HDMI says signal integrity isn't guaranteed past that length.
StoleMyOwnCar said:
My DP cables are Club3D. I'll see if this cheaper 10 foot cable works for now. If not, I'll swap it for a Club3D. How do you "stress test" cable bandwidth? Just run stuff at 120Hz?
Click to expand...
4K 120 Hz HDR will demand the most bandwidth from this TV. That is why I mentioned it in my previous post about checking if your cable works.
 
Just for general information - there are expensive fiber hdmi cables which can be a lot longer that supposedly work over long stretches of 50' or 100' cable. I haven't bought one to test yet but I might someday if I ever decide to run my pc case in a different room. I'm considering running the pc case from a basement storage room up to my pc desk + peripherals in a spare bedroom. I'd prob be able to use a 25' cable for that but I'd have to measure it out incl. bends/turns.

There are also fiber usb-c cables available so you could run usb to a hub similarly without having to use active/power injection as long as you didn't go too long.


This hdmi one below is 50' and around $75 usd, but you can get ones that are a lot shorter like a 15' one for $50, or longer (but if you go too long you might have to use a power injector).

Ablink Certified 8K HDMI Cable 2.1 48Gbps 50FT, Ultra High Speed Fiber Optic HDMI Cable for HDR HDCP2.3 eARC 8K60Hz, 4K 120Hz Compatible with PC HDTV Projector, Xbox Series, in Wall CL3 Rated​


https://www.amazon.com/Ablink-48Gbps-Support-Compatible-Switch/dp/B08VNRJNRZ
MFR
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
Works great at 4K 120Hz
Reviewed in the United States on April 5, 2022
Style: Fiber optic HDMI 2.1 cableSize: Certified 50ft 8K
THis cable lets me remotely use my gaming PC on my Sony TV from 50' away. Syncs fine at 4K/120Hz with HDR. I tried a couple of different fiber optic cables before this (one cheaper and one much more expensive), but despite claiming 4K120 support, they would not sync with my TV. Ordered this cable and it worked right away.
Click to expand...
 
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Armenius said:
4K 120 Hz HDR will demand the most bandwidth from this TV. That is why I mentioned it in my previous post about checking if your cable works.
Click to expand...

I see. I've never actually used HDR. My understanding is that it greatly increases brightness as a side effect, and many of my monitors are already near minimum brightness, to reduce eye strain. I guess I'll try HDR just to stress test it, but I hope this TV takes to being at a very low brightness level gracefully.
 
StoleMyOwnCar said:
I see. I've never actually used HDR. My understanding is that it greatly increases brightness as a side effect, and many of my monitors are already near minimum brightness, to reduce eye strain. I guess I'll try HDR just to stress test it, but I hope this TV takes to being at a very low brightness level gracefully.
Click to expand...
It increases the brightness of the bright spots on the screen, and that is the whole point of HDR. HDR is only for consuming entertainment media like games and movies, so it's not something you'd be using with desktop apps.
 
Its seems like most sources are indicating that most of the new OLED products won't be available until at least Q2. And maybe even later.

TFT Central said that Dell may surprise with an early release, as they did previously.

And LG themselves, being the source of panels, could have something new out relatively sooner. If I had to guess, I would say that would be a new 27 inch/16:9. Because its such a popular size, and their current one is one of the least bright.
 
chameleoneel said:
Its seems like most sources are indicating that most of the new OLED products won't be available until at least Q2. And maybe even later.

TFT Central said that Dell may surprise with an early release, as they did previously.

And LG themselves, being the source of panels, could have something new out relatively sooner. If I had to guess, I would say that would be a new 27 inch/16:9. Because its such a popular size, and their current one is one of the least bright.
Click to expand...

That's pretty much the norm with a lot of monitor announcements at CES. Announce it in Jan but don't release it for 2 quarters (Or 2 years if you are Asus).
 
I have the LG C2 42". Just found out HDR looks much better when you raise the Black Levels in the Game Optimizer under Picture. Looks more like HDR on a good LCD display now, still with perfect black, but much more shadow detail. There is simply too much black crush and the whole picture looks too dark to me without adjusting Black Levels. I use Black Levels at 14. Anyone else have the same experience? I'm enjoying dark movies much more now. The Nun 2 simply looked too dark at default with not much shadow detail. It may not be "correct", but it simply looks better to me.
 
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Frameless said:
I have the LG C2 42". Just found out HDR looks much better when you raise the black levels in the game Optimizer under Picture. Looks more like HDR on a good LCD display now, still with perfect black, but much more shadow detail. There is simply too much black crush and the whole picture looks too dark to me without adjusting Black Levels. I use Black Levels at 14. Anyone else have the same experience? I'm enjoying dark movies much more now. The Nun 2 simply looked too dark at default with not much shadow detail. It may not be "correct", but it simply looks better to me.
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You should use whichever settings look best to you dude. Forget all the stupid BS about "creator's intent". I do whatever I want to my games/movies to make them look best to MY eyes and if that means completely changing the colors with ReShade filters, messing with Digital Vibrance in NVCP, injecting HDR into a game that never had it, or changing the TV settings, then that's what I'm going to do. If changing the Black Level in the TV settings gives the best looking image to you then I say keep using it.
 
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