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Price drop from $779 to $749 on Newegg. Still can't get myself to pull the trigger though despite badly needing a new monitor.
For me personally, Acer is not an option. And hell yes the Swift looks sexy as hell.You should only get this monitor if you need 3D Vision. It also has superior build quality and looks premium. If you don't care about the above get the Acer XB270HU. The IPS type panel is way superior.
My second monitor has significantly better casing. The plastic around the screen is much better aligned. The back of the monitor also has a better finish compared to the first one which had some kind of scratches. They were bought several months apart.
Both were brand new sealed units and not returned, since you cannot return a product in my country under any circumstances.
There's a simple way to fix the gamma on your particular monitor without using the unreliable nVidia control panel settings or someone's random ICC profile.
Open the following page and scroll down to the gamma section till the image is at the height of your eyes at a normal seating position.
http://glennmessersmith.com/images/adjust.htm
Open Colour Management and choose Advanced > Change System Defaults. Click Calibrate Display. Skip forward without changing any settings till your get to the Gamma page. Then reduce the size of the window so you can see the browser in the background. Adjust the gamma slider till the image in the browser becomes perfectly gray from your normal seating position. Skip through all the other pages without changing anything. This will properly set the gamma for your monitor throughout Windows. Once I did this I was surprised at the rich colour quality for a TN panel.
Some games let you use the native Windows gamma ramp. E.g. Source engine has a -nogammaramp switch. When you use this switch the gamma slider in the game gets disabled. For other games you must perform the gamma adjustment in the game's settings according to their instructions.
I posted a simple guide on how to fix the gamma: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1860962
This turned out to be the simplest and most reliable solution compared to using the nVidia control panel or a calibrator.
Newegg has this monitor for 699.99 With Promo Code: EMCASAR22
Newegg has this monitor for 699.99 With Promo Code: EMCASAR22
What is the difference between doing that and using the Nvidia Control Panel? It works the same way, which is fine in windows but most fullscreen games will override it.
Newegg has this monitor for 699.99 With Promo Code: EMCASAR22
Speaking of NVidia settings. I got my replacement and can't for the life of me remember how I had it setup on my previous unit to have ULMB 120Hz in desktop and 144hz G-SYNC in games.
Currently I have it set in Display Resolution at 144hz so when I'm on desktop it's at that rate and I have to manually bring it down to 120Hz through the OSD.
If I switch that to 120hz and load a game (WoW in this case) G-Sync activates but I stay at 120Hz.
in nVidia CP, there is a desktop resolution setting tab, go to that, and set your desktop to 120hz. Then go to your 3D settings, and set the global settings for Refresh Rate to "Prefer Maximum".
But, I will say that I have recently run into a problem that G-Sync is being turned on in desktop mode and I cannot switch on ULMB while on the desktop, and I cannot figure out how to switch G-Sync off on desktop. It is not very important to me though as I can't really see the difference between normal and ULMB mode apart from the massive brightness difference, and I like my screens a little brighter than the max I can ger with ULMB
Did Newegg really just raise the price of the ROG by $150 or am I seeing things? Was this not $749 just a few days ago??
Well I just picked up my 4 monitors Wednesday night (they've been on order for a while with the rest of my sig rig). I'm happy to say there's 0 dead pixels across all 4, and there doesn't appear to be a huge issue with bleeding. In short - no problems here!
As mentioned by others previously in the swift's actual thread (and seach-able via typing 'idle' in the thread's search box I'd imagine :b ... ) this is what we do.
Set the monitor to 120hz and use 120hz on desktop/apps.
Open the nvidia control panel and go to the "Manage 3D settings" section.
Set the
"Preferred refresh rate" of the monitor to "Highest Available" setting.
Hit "Apply".
Now when you launch a game it will use the highest available settings, 144hz, and it will drop back to idle-capable 120hz when you drop back out of the game to the desktop.
You can also utilize this (if you wanted to for some reason) to run ulmb mode on desktop but not in games, since ulmb mode only works at 120hz or 100hz and highest available would jump to 144hz (and g-sync if enabled previously) again on game launch.
Also, each of the 3 HZ settings on the monitor itself (60, 120 and 144hz) each saves its own individual settings, so you can freely adjust color, brightness and contrast settings for 120 and 144 individually (IE desktop and gaming) and the monitor will automatically adjust itself.
Right, so I got my Swift back from Asus RMA (I had to send it in because the OSD controls were borked.)
First of all, I shipped it to them in the original box and packing, exactly as it was shipped to me (and as it was originally shipped to Best Buy - you can see the original label from Asus' warehouse on the outside.) They sent it back after repair in a generic brown box that was much smaller than the original box. So small in fact that they couldn't fit the stand in (with the massive base that it has) without disassembling it. I opened the box to find the base dangling freely from the delicate little ribbon cable that runs between the base and the stand (for the red LED in the base.) I guess they just expected me to carefully reassemble that.
Thankfully the panel itself was surrounded in bubble wrap and they did actually repair what I sent it in for, but jeez talk about crappy ass repair work/service. I called back and had them RMA the stand itself because fuck them if they think I'm going to reassemble it for their lazy asses (on their shipping dime as well.) Also extremely pissed that they took my box because I always keep original boxes around for when I inevitably sell it in the future. Now I'm stuck with a baggy full of the accessories, manual etc.
I'm also lucky that I use a VESA stand or I'd be totally boned.
Of course not, but they themselves made things more difficult for them by not using the correct box. No way around it, what they did was fucking retarded.
Ye I will go with the october version. It has an almost 99% perfect black uniformity, one of the best i've seen. Don't care much about AC Unity with Witcher 3 coming soon anyway.Whichever one is visually more appealing to you.
Why 4? Sounds like an interesting setup.
Do the NVIDIA Game Ready 352.86 WHQL Certified Drivers that were just released keep g-sync active on desktop?
Do the NVIDIA Game Ready 352.86 WHQL Certified Drivers that were just released keep g-sync active on desktop?