ASUS Announces ROG SWIFT PG278Q Premium Gaming Monitor

greens

Limp Gawd
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Price drop from $779 to $749 on Newegg. Still can't get myself to pull the trigger though despite badly needing a new monitor.
 

Monstieur

Limp Gawd
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Price drop from $779 to $749 on Newegg. Still can't get myself to pull the trigger though despite badly needing a new monitor.

You should only get this monitor if you need 3D Vision. It also has superior build quality and looks premium. If you don't care about the above get the Acer XB270HU. The IPS type panel is way superior.
 
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You should only get this monitor if you need 3D Vision. It also has superior build quality and looks premium. If you don't care about the above get the Acer XB270HU. The IPS type panel is way superior.
For me personally, Acer is not an option. And hell yes the Swift looks sexy as hell.

Btw peepz, I see 2 different build numbers across the internet for the RoG Swift. They all start with manufacturers number of 90LM00U0, and then either -B013L0 or -B01370. Anyone know the difference, and why is the 3L0 more expensive then the 370.
 

Monstieur

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My second monitor has significantly better casing. The plastic around the screen is much better aligned. The back of the monitor also has a better finish compared to the first one which had some kind of scratches. They were bought several months apart.

Both were brand new sealed units and not returned, since you cannot return a product in my country under any circumstances.
 

dmonkey

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My second monitor has significantly better casing. The plastic around the screen is much better aligned. The back of the monitor also has a better finish compared to the first one which had some kind of scratches. They were bought several months apart.

Both were brand new sealed units and not returned, since you cannot return a product in my country under any circumstances.

What country is that? I guess "consumer protection laws" aren't really a thing there.
 

chenw

2[H]4U
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I know in Taiwan it is perfectly legal for shops to offer a no-refund policy, but they are required to fulfill warranties otherwise (repairs and/or replacements, pretty much everything short of an actual refund).

Sometimes I cannot blame them, as we, as a country, have people that are designed specifically to abuse this kind of privileges given, though it has not stopped Costco from implementing their own return policy (thus Costco is pretty much destroying local competition, pity we haven't realised why).

In theory that makes things cheaper, but in practice it doesn't, at least not compared to US. Our Swift after taxes costs almost exactly the same as US Swifts. You can return your Swifts if you don't like the way it looks at you, but we can't even exchange our Swifts even if we threaten them with an ugly stick, unless it is actually outside of specs.

Ever wondered why the big three all share the god awful customer services? That'd be why.
 

elvn

Supreme [H]ardness
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I tweaked it manually myself so haven't tried your method, but you might as well just post it here too.

There's a simple way to fix the gamma on your particular monitor without using the unreliable nVidia control panel settings or someone's random ICC profile.

Open the following page and scroll down to the gamma section till the image is at the height of your eyes at a normal seating position.
http://glennmessersmith.com/images/adjust.htm

Open Colour Management and choose Advanced > Change System Defaults. Click Calibrate Display. Skip forward without changing any settings till your get to the Gamma page. Then reduce the size of the window so you can see the browser in the background. Adjust the gamma slider till the image in the browser becomes perfectly gray from your normal seating position. Skip through all the other pages without changing anything. This will properly set the gamma for your monitor throughout Windows. Once I did this I was surprised at the rich colour quality for a TN panel.

Some games let you use the native Windows gamma ramp. E.g. Source engine has a -nogammaramp switch. When you use this switch the gamma slider in the game gets disabled. For other games you must perform the gamma adjustment in the game's settings according to their instructions.
 

Colonel Sanders

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I posted a simple guide on how to fix the gamma: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1860962

This turned out to be the simplest and most reliable solution compared to using the nVidia control panel or a calibrator.

What is the difference between doing that and using the Nvidia Control Panel? It works the same way, which is fine in windows but most fullscreen games will override it.
 

Monstieur

Limp Gawd
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What is the difference between doing that and using the Nvidia Control Panel? It works the same way, which is fine in windows but most fullscreen games will override it.

The nVidia setting sometimes doesn't take effect on reboot depending on whether the Windows or nVidia LUT loaded first. On fast PCs the nVidia setting loads first and Windows erases it a few seconds later.

The nVidia setting does not generate a corresponding ICC profile - it only modifies the LUT so it probably doesn't work with colour aware applications. The Windows calibration generates an ICC profile for the new gamma.

Games use the same DirectX gamma ramp functions as the desktop, but on a different surface. Changing the gamma slider in games has the same effect as Windows does on the desktop. You just have to set it once and forget it per game.

Basically you avoid the first two problems.
 

Drakul

Limp Gawd
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Speaking of NVidia settings. I got my replacement and can't for the life of me remember how I had it setup on my previous unit to have ULMB 120Hz in desktop and 144hz G-SYNC in games.

Currently I have it set in Display Resolution at 144hz so when I'm on desktop it's at that rate and I have to manually bring it down to 120Hz through the OSD.
If I switch that to 120hz and load a game (WoW in this case) G-Sync activates but I stay at 120Hz.
 

bildad

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Newegg has this monitor for 699.99 With Promo Code: EMCASAR22

Thanks. I bought one at Frys this past weekend for $769 + tax. They wouldn't price match Newegg just now because it was a promo code so I ordered one from there. Will see which is the better of the two when it arrives and take one back to Frys. Morons should have price matched.
 

chenw

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Speaking of NVidia settings. I got my replacement and can't for the life of me remember how I had it setup on my previous unit to have ULMB 120Hz in desktop and 144hz G-SYNC in games.

Currently I have it set in Display Resolution at 144hz so when I'm on desktop it's at that rate and I have to manually bring it down to 120Hz through the OSD.
If I switch that to 120hz and load a game (WoW in this case) G-Sync activates but I stay at 120Hz.

in nVidia CP, there is a desktop resolution setting tab, go to that, and set your desktop to 120hz. Then go to your 3D settings, and set the global settings for Refresh Rate to "Prefer Maximum".

But, I will say that I have recently run into a problem that G-Sync is being turned on in desktop mode and I cannot switch on ULMB while on the desktop, and I cannot figure out how to switch G-Sync off on desktop. It is not very important to me though as I can't really see the difference between normal and ULMB mode apart from the massive brightness difference, and I like my screens a little brighter than the max I can ger with ULMB
 

Monstieur

Limp Gawd
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They changed the driver such that G-SYNC is permanently enabled. You have to wait for them to fix it. Now you have to disable G-SYNC and reduce the refresh rate to 120 Hz (using the monitor Turbo button) every time you want to enable ULMB.

When using the Turbo button to reduce the refresh rate, Windows still shows 144 Hz. I think the monitor tells the GPU to restrict the frame rate and it still uses proprietary communication for ULMB. This is probably the reason ULMB works only on nVidia.
 

Drakul

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in nVidia CP, there is a desktop resolution setting tab, go to that, and set your desktop to 120hz. Then go to your 3D settings, and set the global settings for Refresh Rate to "Prefer Maximum".

But, I will say that I have recently run into a problem that G-Sync is being turned on in desktop mode and I cannot switch on ULMB while on the desktop, and I cannot figure out how to switch G-Sync off on desktop. It is not very important to me though as I can't really see the difference between normal and ULMB mode apart from the massive brightness difference, and I like my screens a little brighter than the max I can ger with ULMB

Thanks, that did the trick.
 

greens

Limp Gawd
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Did Newegg really just raise the price of the ROG by $150 or am I seeing things? Was this not $749 just a few days ago??
 

crimsonyoshi

Limp Gawd
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Well I just picked up my 4 monitors Wednesday night (they've been on order for a while with the rest of my sig rig). I'm happy to say there's 0 dead pixels across all 4, and there doesn't appear to be a huge issue with bleeding. In short - no problems here!
 

dmonkey

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Well I just picked up my 4 monitors Wednesday night (they've been on order for a while with the rest of my sig rig). I'm happy to say there's 0 dead pixels across all 4, and there doesn't appear to be a huge issue with bleeding. In short - no problems here!

Why 4? Sounds like an interesting setup.
 

elvn

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Yeah Drakul that's how you do it.

As mentioned by others previously in the swift's actual thread (and seach-able via typing 'idle' in the thread's search box I'd imagine :b ... ) this is what we do.

Set the monitor to 120hz and use 120hz on desktop/apps.
Open the nvidia control panel and go to the "Manage 3D settings" section.
Set the
"Preferred refresh rate" of the monitor to "Highest Available" setting.
Hit "Apply".

Now when you launch a game it will use the highest available settings, 144hz, and it will drop back to idle-capable 120hz when you drop back out of the game to the desktop.

You can also utilize this (if you wanted to for some reason) to run ulmb mode on desktop but not in games, since ulmb mode only works at 120hz or 100hz and highest available would jump to 144hz (and g-sync if enabled previously) again on game launch.

Also, each of the 3 HZ settings on the monitor itself (60, 120 and 144hz) each saves its own individual settings, so you can freely adjust color, brightness and contrast settings for 120 and 144 individually (IE desktop and gaming) and the monitor will automatically adjust itself.
 

kalston

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The 3 HZ don't save their own individual settings for me. However ULMB and normal/g-sync modes do save their settings separately (which is good as you need to use a much higher brightness setting with ULMB).

Also keep in mind that there are some games that do not apply the "force max refresh" setting. At first I thought it was only a few old games but I'm seeing it more and more (for example Doom 3, Wolfenstein, games running on the Quake 3 engine, Quake Live etc.) but I don't remember seeing that behaviour with pre 350.xx drivers. For Wolfenstein it's not a big deal since that's a 60fps locked game, but for Quake Live this is very annoying as the game must be played at 125fps (or 250 if you don't go for g-sync) so if your desktop is set to 120hz you get 120fps + v-sync-like input lag :/

edit : I found a workaround for Quake Live by making a custom resolution instead of using "desktop native" :)
 
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Colonel Sanders

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Right, so I got my Swift back from Asus RMA (I had to send it in because the OSD controls were borked.)

First of all, I shipped it to them in the original box and packing, exactly as it was shipped to me (and as it was originally shipped to Best Buy - you can see the original label from Asus' warehouse on the outside.) They sent it back after repair in a generic brown box that was much smaller than the original box. So small in fact that they couldn't fit the stand in (with the massive base that it has) without disassembling it. I opened the box to find the base dangling freely from the delicate little ribbon cable that runs between the base and the stand (for the red LED in the base.) I guess they just expected me to carefully reassemble that.

Thankfully the panel itself was surrounded in bubble wrap and they did actually repair what I sent it in for, but jeez talk about crappy ass repair work/service. I called back and had them RMA the stand itself because fuck them if they think I'm going to reassemble it for their lazy asses (on their shipping dime as well.) Also extremely pissed that they took my box because I always keep original boxes around for when I inevitably sell it in the future. Now I'm stuck with a baggy full of the accessories, manual etc.

I'm also lucky that I use a VESA stand or I'd be totally boned.

hRFDCpZ.jpg
 

dmonkey

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Right, so I got my Swift back from Asus RMA (I had to send it in because the OSD controls were borked.)

First of all, I shipped it to them in the original box and packing, exactly as it was shipped to me (and as it was originally shipped to Best Buy - you can see the original label from Asus' warehouse on the outside.) They sent it back after repair in a generic brown box that was much smaller than the original box. So small in fact that they couldn't fit the stand in (with the massive base that it has) without disassembling it. I opened the box to find the base dangling freely from the delicate little ribbon cable that runs between the base and the stand (for the red LED in the base.) I guess they just expected me to carefully reassemble that.

Thankfully the panel itself was surrounded in bubble wrap and they did actually repair what I sent it in for, but jeez talk about crappy ass repair work/service. I called back and had them RMA the stand itself because fuck them if they think I'm going to reassemble it for their lazy asses (on their shipping dime as well.) Also extremely pissed that they took my box because I always keep original boxes around for when I inevitably sell it in the future. Now I'm stuck with a baggy full of the accessories, manual etc.

I'm also lucky that I use a VESA stand or I'd be totally boned.

hRFDCpZ.jpg

Never give them anything but what you want fixed if you can, sometimes they'll even say that when you get the RMA. This goes for any aftermarket repairs.
 

Colonel Sanders

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Of course not, but they themselves made things more difficult for them by not using the correct box. No way around it, what they did was fucking retarded.
 

dmonkey

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Of course not, but they themselves made things more difficult for them by not using the correct box. No way around it, what they did was fucking retarded.

They did a bungled-up job, no doubt. But if you want to keep your original box (or even any accessories) never give it to them. You don't know what these guys will do with them (probably throw them in the trash lol).
 
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Ok so don't ask me how, but I got 2 Swifts here atm. One from October 2014 and one from December 2014. Both no backlight bleed or dead pixels. Seems both look identical, except October may have a slightly better black colour uniformity when screen is completely black. The december version is slightly less black uniform but I'm getting a free game with it (AC Unity). Wich one should I send back? :D
 
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bigbluefe

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Aug 23, 2014
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I've got three extra stands from Asus because I just RMA'd the panel and didn't send back the rest. If anyone needs an extra stand and is willing to pay shipping, I can send you one.

Geezus™
 

Psycrow

Limp Gawd
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Feb 26, 2010
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So these TN panals black out much more than a regular panal when you change angel?
 

TheHobbyist

Hugs Hard Johnnies [H]ard
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Do the NVIDIA Game Ready 352.86 WHQL Certified Drivers that were just released keep g-sync active on desktop?
 

Saywhat75

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Do the NVIDIA Game Ready 352.86 WHQL Certified Drivers that were just released keep g-sync active on desktop?

Not sure about those new drivers. FWIW - I upgraded to the GTA V Game Ready Drivers yesterday and that seemed to cause the G-Sync status light to stay red all the time, even on the desktop. I did not care for that so I went back to one of the older drivers and that seemed to take things back to normal operation on the status light.

-A.J.
 

kalston

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Do the NVIDIA Game Ready 352.86 WHQL Certified Drivers that were just released keep g-sync active on desktop?

I've read on several places that it changes nothing. Looks like nvidia won't bother, they are just preparing for Windows 10 I guess and don't really give a damn about Windows 7 anymore (since, for the record, they said the change is to "prepare for Windows 10").

Not sure I'll install them since I won't be playing Witcher 3 just yet and I'm done with GTA.
 

bigbluefe

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So wait a minute...you're saying that Windows 10 has G-Sync on the desktop and windowed applications?
 

crimsonyoshi

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I have the latest drivers in and have no problems so far with anything. As for the g-sync always being on, you can shut it off in the NVidia control panel.

Definitely have to say though - holy crap! I can't believe what I was missing without these monitors. The moment I saw the mouse on the desktop in 144Hz for the first time was pretty well right up there with other amazing events in my life! And then of course, the gaming started. Let's just say I only got about 3 hours of sleep last night.

Colours were pretty decent out of the box (mind you I was using an LG monitor from about 12 years ago before these). I'm getting pretty decent frame rates (World of Warcraft is averaging between 70-100 fps). I think I can tweak a few things to make this better - I just have to spend some time tweaking as opposed to playing. Newer titles of course that rely more on the gpu as opposed to the cpu will work better. I think I need to book a few sick days here :p
 
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