NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

[harsaphes]

For those more in the know than I am. Here are my temps. Running Core Temp and Unigine. Core Temp is reporting four cores.

Idle:
29c
31c
26c
30c

Core Temp while Unigine is running.
45c
45c
38c
41c

Unigine is reporting a steady 80c while running. This seem ok?
thanks.

 

[charww]

Regarding the custom M1 demciflex filters - When the order page comes available, I'll order two for the side intake. If I want filters for the top vent, is it correct to order two for that as well? Thank you.

 

[Diverge]

ATTENTION:
This is the verbatim reply I just got from SilverstoneTek support regarding my question which I will put after this: "For safety reasons we can't provide any information and by modifying the
power supply or cables this void the warranty." What? For safety reasons they can't give info? This is from my email asking them for help and giving them facts to work with:
"... a capacitor, marked with a polization with the neg. on the black negative wire to pin 3, and the other side on the orange wire to pin 2. It is marked with characters on three lines:
Label Line1: 330 Line 2: 6.3CG Line3: 342
Since it is wired across 3.3V, I am guessing that 6.3CG means 6.3V. No idea
what the "CG" means The 330 and 342 could be values or date/lot codes. ..."
It's small and tubular and looks like an electrolytic, with the small crimp on the bottom end where its leads exit. I had to read the labeling with a good pair of glasses (small). My guess is it is not noise suppression but rather inrush suppression or more likely hold-up for that line.
My concern is it is on the cables that came with the ST45SF-G PSU, and was obviously done at the factory. What SAFETY at 3.3V?

Can't say I blame them. They don't want to be liable for people hurting themselves, or burning down their houses. That has nothing do with it only being 3.3V. It's current that kills people.

 

[Skott]

I agree. They are not going to even look like they are helping anyone to avoid lawsuits. Tinker at your own risk.

 

[okwchin]

but 3.3v isn't enough potential to generate a lethal current flow though a body to be lethal. Yes it is a certain amount of current that kills, but the body is a fairly resistive connection, and a much higher voltage than 3.3 is required. Edit: ah, PLHHSB beat me to it with a great link!

I would see that they are more worried about a user trying to modify the cables (cutting lengths, changing wires) and making a mistake with which wires goes to which pin, thereby possibly shorting or giving the wrong voltages to the wrong pins. Potentially cooking the devices down the line, or shorting out/ loading the PSU.

This would be damaging to the products or devices, and beyond the manufacturers control, thus reason to void the warranty.

 

[Skott]

For those more in the know than I am. Here are my temps. Running Core Temp and Unigine. Core Temp is reporting four cores.

Idle:
29c
31c
26c
30c

Core Temp while Unigine is running.
45c
45c
38c
41c

Unigine is reporting a steady 80c while running. This seem ok?
thanks.

Those look like very good core temps if you ask me.

 

[harsaphes]

@skott thank you

 

[Diverge]

but 3.3v isn't enough potential to generate a lethal current flow though a body to be lethal. Yes it is a certain amount of current that kills, but the body is a fairly resistive connection, and a much higher voltage than 3.3 is required. Edit: ah, PLHHSB beat me to it with a great link!

I would see that they are more worried about a user trying to modify the cables (cutting lengths, changing wires) and making a mistake with which wires goes to which pin, thereby possibly shorting or giving the wrong voltages to the wrong pins. Potentially cooking the devices down the line, or shorting out/ loading the PSU.

This would be damaging to the products or devices, and beyond the manufacturers control, thus reason to void the warranty.

The PSU is the most dangerous part of the PC, to you and your other components. You have 120V AC stepped down and converted to 12V DC with tons of current. That's all I was implying by it's not just about 3.3V. I've shocked myself with 1000's of volts with ESD testing equipment, and curve tracers. It hurts, and wakes you up

In any event, his post/email was kind confusing. I wasn't even sure if the guy was referring to a cap in his PSU, or one of the ones they added to a cable in one of the revs to reduce ripple.

 

[DrWattsOn]

In any event, his post/email was kind confusing. I wasn't even sure if the guy was referring to a cap in his PSU, or one of the ones they added to a cable in one of the revs to reduce ripple.

Ok, here's "The Guy": my post contained a single excerpt of 3 emails in which I had made it clear that the capacitor is on the CABLE PLUG that plugs onto the MOBO! It is therefore exterior to the PSU. I hope this changes the various observations. They ship a PSU with a set of modular cables that are NOT STANDARD to any other modular PSU.
The capacitor is wired with its insulated pins going down into the MOBO PLUG end of the cable, exactly as I described or tried to. They then run about 2 inches of heatshrink from the edge of the cable PLUG, going up the two leads #2 orange and #3 black. If I weren't as picky as I am (having worked in QA/QC), I would have missed it.

Thus, those like me who purchased the flexible cable sets, are using cables lacking that capacitor, as does lack, every other cable manufactured by anyone on this planet, ever! Please prove me wrong on that! The possible functions of this cap I mentioned in my previous post.

But for them to claim it as a matter of SAFETY is foolish and strictly CYA. And disingenuous. And loses my respect. And, I MOCK the comments about it being a possible source of electrocution, but then, I guess it isn't enough that I have over 50 years experience as an Electronics Engineering TECH (not "Engineer") working on mostly every kind of product currently existing that has been manufactured in the USA. Including Solid State Relay production line testers I built that switch between 120/240/480 VAC at 400 amps source (Crydom in 1985).
Nobody would even detect 3VDC with electrodes wired to any parts of their body, even after days of heavy salt intake.
The issue is, the factory seems to think the cap is necessary. I already explained its placement, and to add it onto the external cable as I described, is sloppy. Which leads me to wonder: where else were they sloppy?

 

[AFD]

Regarding the custom M1 demciflex filters - When the order page comes available, I'll order two for the side intake. If I want filters for the top vent, is it correct to order two for that as well? Thank you.

The M1 DEMCiflex filters are designed for intake locations only.. 2x bottom (external), 2x side (beneath panel on fan rack), and 1x SFX PSU.

If you want one for the top panel, you'll either have to have one custom made, or maybe try their 140x120mm filter. Not sure how much room there is to get one to fit, and how it will effect the overall positive pressure airflow. Don't think it's recommended.

I'll probably order 6x 120mm (2x bottom, 2x side, 2x spares) and 3x PSU (1x 450W, 1x 600W upgrade, 1x spare).

 

[IncubusBob]

Pictures are my favorite parts of this thread so I thought I would contribute mine.

This has a Gigabyte GA-Z87N-WIFI motherboard with i7-4770. Heatsink is the Scythe Samurai ZZ with fan removed. Video card is the Gigabyte GTX 770, also with fans removed. White fans are Nexus 12cm max 1000rpm 3-pin and very quiet at 800rpm or less. Cooling is adequate for the cpu, but not great. Video card cooling is not good though So trying to figure out a better plan. Also fan control with this motherboard is frustrating. The cpu header is pwm but there's no good 12cm pwn fans that I can find, so using the fanmate. The lower fans are both connected to the system fan header, which is controllable, but as all the bios settings are based off the chipset temp sensor it is kind of a bad fit for cooling the video card. Ideally I would run the bottom fans off the video card header. But it is a tiny four pin connector for which I don't have a splitter.

 

[AFD]

the capacitor is on the CABLE PLUG that plugs onto the MOBO!

Thus, those like me who purchased the flexible cable sets, are using cables lacking that capacitor, as does lack, every other cable manufactured by anyone on this planet, ever!

So, the newer revision ST45SF-G motherboard cable has an inline capacitor to reduce ripple, but the PP05-E replacement cable does not?

Would there be any issue for those of us running the PP05-E set instead of the stock cables??

 

[DrWattsOn]

Hi AFD,
Though technically the cap is across two lines rather than "inline", that is basically it, and hence I ask the question as did you; I don't know if I need to use the stock 24-pin instead of my PP05-E, for that one cable. Perhaps if the CS Dept. at Silverstone began being flooded with questions on the issue ... ?
Does the cable you got with your ST45SF-G have it? You can tell lines 1,2,3, by the tiny engraved lines on the side of the 20+4 pin plug and as I mentioned, the cap is between...
rather, "ACROSS" lines 2 and 3 under heatshrink.
As I also mentioned in OP, it could be for additional surge (I doubt it), it would NOT be for noise, it could be for ripple but I doubt it, and as I would rate most plausible: additional hold-up. So when the PSU is shut down by a power outage, it will maintain that line's voltage just a couple millisec longer.
I don't know what components use line #2 on the mobo, and I don't know if this is an afterthought for the -G. But I don't like to speculate, which is why I asked Silverstone. I don't know what else to do, except I know there are many on this forum using that PSU on their M1, so I posted here. Until I figure it out, by build is stopped, as I told them at Silverstone. Most stuff from Silverstone is fairly elegant. This is sloppy, I would never have manufactured or signed off on something like this.
UPDATE! Just got an email from Silverstone service rep., he's going to "ask his PSU Engineers". Yeaaaaa! And Verily! Selah!

 

[Aibohphobia]

[snip]

Also fan control with this motherboard is frustrating. The cpu header is pwm but there's no good 12cm pwn fans that I can find, so using the fanmate. The lower fans are both connected to the system fan header, which is controllable, but as all the bios settings are based off the chipset temp sensor it is kind of a bad fit for cooling the video card. Ideally I would run the bottom fans off the video card header. But it is a tiny four pin connector for which I don't have a splitter.

Going off the SPCR recommended fan list (link) it looks like the Noiseblocker M12-PS and PWM versions of the Scythe Slipstream would be good choices. I'm personally using a Noctua NF-12 PWM fan for the CPU and with it idling at 400RPM it's inaudible (my rig is now quiet enough that I can hear the backlight whine from my monitors).

I'm also using another of those Noctua fans plugged into a MSI 260X using an adapter similar to this: http://www.amazon.com/Graphics-Cooling-Connector-Adapter-Conversion/dp/B005ZKZEQA
I can't say for sure it it will fit your Gigabyte card but as far as I can tell all the GPU manufacturers use JST PH connectors for their video card fans so it should work.
It's very quiet but at full load the temps aren't very good. I think part of the problem is that the fan just doesn't push enough air at full speed compared to the stock fan.

You may want to swap out the bottom fans for something with fluid or ball bearings. The Nexus fans use sleeve bearings and in my experience sleeve bearing fans don't hold up in the long run when mounted horizontally, especially when exhausting up. Just my 2¢.

 

[DrWattsOn]

@Aibophobia & Incubusbob
I considered the SilverStone AP121/122 "Air Penetrator" series,but after seeing their Air Pressure specs vs Cougar Vortex PWM (800-1500rpm) at well over 2" H2O compared to 1.8 for the AP's, I am going to try out the Cougar on the bottom plate. Point is, with high PRESSURE it may fix the air movement problem on your GPU? Their alleged specs: 4.5-13V pwm4pin, "Hydro-Dynamic" bearing, 17.3dBA, 70CFM max, and 300K Hours MTBF (sure), but I got 'em. Might one cram the air thru the fins of your cooler?
I got 'em but only just now mounting them, if I can figure out which corner to put their power cables into.
They will intake upward, mounted inside of course. I want to filter them but can't figure out which side to put the filters on, outside more accessible to a vac cleaner, inside will protect blades better. Open to suggestions, or as some would say: "HELP"!
Oh darn, I already have them and now I see they rely on external pwm controller, I expected for the price they would have an adjuster built in. Oh well.

 

[AFD]

They will intake upward, mounted inside of course. I want to filter them but can't figure out which side to put the filters on, outside more accessible to a vac cleaner, inside will protect blades better. Open to suggestions, or as some would say: "HELP"!

Mounted as bottom intake, most fans already have a guard molded into the face that is expelling the air, but you could also add one of the extra guards that were included with the M1 if you're worried about cables getting too close.

For the filter, it would make sense to mount it on the bottom, outside of the case.. otherwise, if you mount it inside, beneath the fan, you'll have to remove the entire fan (and probably GPU, fan rack, etc) every time you want to clean the filter.

Also.. don't think it's a good idea to mount the filter inside, but above the fan, if that's what you were considering. Would still be a pain to access and clean, and all the dust would accumulate inside the fan and bottom of the case.

 

[IncubusBob]

I can't say for sure it it will fit your Gigabyte card but as far as I can tell all the GPU manufacturers use JST PH connectors for their video card fans so it should work.
It's very quiet but at full load the temps aren't very good. I think part of the problem is that the fan just doesn't push enough air at full speed compared to the stock fan.

Thanks for that adapter link and the fan suggestions. Does your GPU temp stabilize? I basically cannot play any intensive 3d game currently as the core GPU temp hits 90+ within about 10 minutes and shows no signs of slowing down.

 

[cowsgomoo]

Video card cooling is not good though So trying to figure out a better plan. Also fan control with this motherboard is frustrating. The cpu header is pwm but there's no good 12cm pwn fans that I can find, so using the fanmate. The lower fans are both connected to the system fan header, which is controllable, but as all the bios settings are based off the chipset temp sensor it is kind of a bad fit for cooling the video card. Ideally I would run the bottom fans off the video card header. But it is a tiny four pin connector for which I don't have a splitter.

Same problem here. I'm thinking of upgrading my card anyway, so I'll probably get a three-slot card that's two slots thick with the stock fans removed. Something like the PowerColor pcs+ 290 or MSI 290 Lightning (if it fits). The heatsink must also not be partially shrouded - my twin frozer heatsink is shrouded near the center and the two extreme sides, so it blocks off some airflow.
The VGA to 2x 4pin motherboard fan splitter can be found on ebay or FrozenCPU. I'm running two Corsair fans from my H80i off my card with the splitter, but the distance from fan to heatsink is too far. Not to mention that the heatsink is shrouded.
If you're running Windows, you can also use MSI afterburner to adjust the fan speed curve on your GPU when connected to your own fans.
Another way to improve airflow is probably to elevate your fans in some way so that it's closer to your heatsink. Or just put back the original fans and use all four fans.

 

[DrWattsOn]

@AFD: Agreed to all, thanks. Will be putting the grills over the fans, & filters outside. Sometimes I lose my common sense. BTW, will post the instant I find out about the cap on the 20+4 pin PSU cable. To ponder: the PP05-E set is also SilverStone. We might see a V3 of the PSU! Laughing out loud, literally.
There's only one guy who handles [email protected], and he works fairly hard to do right by us (customers). I have actually been at their location about 3 years ago. I expect to have an answer in the next couple of days. I may prime him with the info ... he already knows about the M1 ... and so, there must be over a hundred purchasers of this exact PSU ... I am sure he doesn't want to be inundated with everyone asking the same question.
I'm mounting the 2 Vortex's with their cable corners together on the mobo side.

 

[okwchin]

My ST450SF-G V2 does not have an external capacitor on the 20+4 pin connector. I do not recall seeing one.


GPU fan wise, I have my 670 Asus card, with fans removed. Used 2x Scythe GT 2150s running at (ideally) 3-400 idle, and 1100-1500 depending on ambient temperature, holding an idle temp of 35-40 degC, and load temp of 60 deg C.
GPU fans are connected to a DIY temp controller measuring GPU heatsink temp. (also remember that the 670 is a low TDP Card. 150 watts vs 200+ watts of a 770, and 250+ watts for a 290x)

Filters are the ones that the case came with, mounted to the outside of the case.

Fan selection and mounting is important for fan performance. The requirements for effective GPU cooling are in essence, Getting air Through the heatsink fins. Getting this air is particularly tricky in this case because of the air resistance through the filters, grille, and then aerodynamically due to the close proximity of the fans to the table top, and the filters.

The Scythe GT was selected here because it is a High static pressure fan, Has BB for horizontal operation, and is known for quiet and power efficient operation.

The High pressure is useful here to overcome the resistance of the filters and grille, and also to counter the back pressure of the case, given that two intakes on the bottom and two at the side panel will give a strongly positive pressure case, with less outlet than intake cross sectional area.

The other issue is aerodynamic, where having anything close to the front of any fan will cause the blades to stall (lose laminar flow) and therefore not actually push air. The GTs in my experimentation are the hardest fan to stall, and work happily down to 1", while most quiet fans and low pressure case fans like the scythe slipstream for example although can push lots of air on paper, when within 2" of a hard surface start to stall and effectively stop pushing any air. Remember though that this case will give you barely half an inch between the table top and the fan, not to mention the grille and filters!

The filter, grille and tabletop are very relevant here, so what I have done with my fans is mount the filter on the outside, lift the fan up from the case bottom about 1/8", and extend the feet an extra 1/8" too. The combination of simply giving enough space for the fans means a good 5 degree improvement in temperatures. Most of that came from simply lifting the case up higher off the table.


Certainly experiment with lifting your case off the table, see if that makes a difference for you. I found for my GTs, the ideal minimum lift was an extra 1/8" off the table. Another 1/8 would also give an improvement but more than that saw less gains. With a lower static pressure fan (slim 120mm), I needed at least another 1.5" before it reached optimal efficiency, and even then it was not very impressive compared to the GT. This is where a high static pressure fan really really shines.

 

[semyorka]

DrWattsOn; okwchin: My ST450SF-G V2 certainly *does* have the external cap on the 20+4 ATX power cable! I'd never noticed it until this thread, and I certainly don't recall it on any previous PSUs I've had. My M1 is running just fine with the PP05-E cables, I opened up the case to verify that they *do not* have the capacitor.

Hmmmm, I wonder why you'd want a cap across 3.3V and ground? Decoupling, if there's bad ripple in the supply? Quite strange.

 

[DrWattsOn]

@semyorka: see my prev posts on my educated guesses.
@ okwchin: thank you for sharing re bottom mount intake, I have already been devising a set of taller feet to add about 1/2 to 3/4 in., even considering getting some wooden dowels from Home Depot if any unused "junk" pieces, and painting them black. I wouldn't lift the fans off the floor unless I had room to, and also would put an extension to the case bottom to be sure I pull in only outside air.

 

[OverRated]

DrWattsOn; okwchin: My ST450SF-G V2 certainly *does* have the external cap on the 20+4 ATX power cable! I'd never noticed it until this thread, and I certainly don't recall it on any previous PSUs I've had. My M1 is running just fine with the PP05-E cables, I opened up the case to verify that they *do not* have the capacitor.

Hmmmm, I wonder why you'd want a cap across 3.3V and ground? Decoupling, if there's bad ripple in the supply? Quite strange.

Also the normal cable has 24pins but the PP05-E cables are only has 23pins if you look one cable is missing a wire (-5v), This is on the PSU side not the motherboard the extra wire goes off into another 3.3v line.

 

[AFD]

Also the normal cable has 24pins but the PP05-E cables are only has 23pins if you look one cable is missing a wire (-5v), This is on the PSU side not the motherboard the extra wire goes off into another 3.3v line.

That's weird, thanks OverRated.

So.. does anyone know if it's actually safe to use the PP05-E cable set with it missing a capacitor and 1 wire??

Not too worried about damaging the PSU, since Silverstone states it is "Compatible with SilverStone modular PSUs", so they should cover a replacement if needed. Just kinda worried if it could damage the motherboard, though.

 

[WiSK]

Also the normal cable has 24pins but the PP05-E cables are only has 23pins if you look one cable is missing a wire (-5v), This is on the PSU side not the motherboard the extra wire goes off into another 3.3v line.

Pin 20 (-5) isn't part of the ATX PSU spec anymore, it's not used by modern motherboards. Silverstone uses that pin on PSU side to measure voltage drop of the 3.3V line to adjust at high loads. But, who uses 3.3V at high loads?

PP05-E "Compatible with SilverStone modular PSUs",

^ This is the important fact.

ST45SF-G V1.0 did not have caps on the stock cables. V1.1 and V2.0 do have caps to smooth ripple. These are added in subsequent versions to improve performance without having to redesign new circuitry inside the PSU. I.e. it's a cheaper way to make fixes without having to resubmit the unit to Ecova for 80Plus testing. Why does Silverstone want to make these fixes? PSU reviewers often score highly on ripple tests. The V1.0 scored "good' but not "excellent" on ripple suppression on the 3.3V line. So they added the cap for V1.1 and then it was much better. The Jonnyguru review mentions this.

TL;DR you can use PP05 type cable sets, or when making your own custom cables you can leave out the caps. Unless your motherboard really really needs high quality 3.3V signal, you won't notice a thing.

 

[Diverge]

Hi AFD,
Though technically the cap is across two lines rather than "inline", that is basically it, and hence I ask the question as did you; I don't know if I need to use the stock 24-pin instead of my PP05-E, for that one cable. Perhaps if the CS Dept. at Silverstone began being flooded with questions on the issue ... ?
Does the cable you got with your ST45SF-G have it? You can tell lines 1,2,3, by the tiny engraved lines on the side of the 20+4 pin plug and as I mentioned, the cap is between...
rather, "ACROSS" lines 2 and 3 under heatshrink.
As I also mentioned in OP, it could be for additional surge (I doubt it), it would NOT be for noise, it could be for ripple but I doubt it, and as I would rate most plausible: additional hold-up. So when the PSU is shut down by a power outage, it will maintain that line's voltage just a couple millisec longer.
I don't know what components use line #2 on the mobo, and I don't know if this is an afterthought for the -G. But I don't like to speculate, which is why I asked Silverstone. I don't know what else to do, except I know there are many on this forum using that PSU on their M1, so I posted here. Until I figure it out, by build is stopped, as I told them at Silverstone. Most stuff from Silverstone is fairly elegant. This is sloppy, I would never have manufactured or signed off on something like this.
UPDATE! Just got an email from Silverstone service rep., he's going to "ask his PSU Engineers". Yeaaaaa! And Verily! Selah!

It was added to reduce ripple after trusted reviews noted it had a little higher than expected ripple. The 3.3V rail isn't used for anything high power, it's not something worth redesigning the whole PSU for. http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/SilverStone-ST45SF-G-Power-Supply-Review/1662/8 and http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story4&reid=319 BTW, I've been a computer/technology geek for 30 years. And ~17 years experience with semiconductors, and computers, as an engineering tech. So I tend to do my homework

If you still want to throw a tantrum about this great PSU, and how you feel wronged by silverstone because they didn't tell you the value of the cap please do it in the correct thread. http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1707073&page=28

 

[OverRated]

Well seems the wait was for nothing how the F!@# are you meant to use this ? only really thin tubing with barbs fittings will fit.

 

[DrWattsOn]

@Diverge

It was added to reduce ripple after trusted reviews noted it had a little higher than expected ripple. The 3.3V rail isn't used for anything high power, ... truncated ... BTW, I've been a computer/technology geek for 30 years. And ~17 years experience with semiconductors, and computers, as an engineering tech. So I tend to do my homework

Good to know. Thanks for the data.

If you still want to throw a tantrum about this great PSU, and how you feel wronged by silverstone because they didn't tell you the value of the cap please do it in the correct thread. http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1707073&page=28

Unaware of "tantrum". I was trying to get facts. You provided them. They didn't just refuse to tell me the VALUE of the cap, they wouldn't say it WAS a cap. Without facts, there was cause for worry, and it seemed prudent to post the discrepancy. And, others here followed suit. No "tantrum". Note the final sentence beginning "UPDATE" in your quote of my "tantrum". I just wanted facts for all users, not just myself. Silverstone handled their response poorly at first with irrelevant comments. No harm no foul.
Thank you for the data, which I clearly stated that I lacked.

 

[DrWattsOn]

@Necere (mostly, and some for finas at the end of this):
This is my last chance to bail out.
I can return my still completely unopened H80i to Fry's before Friday night Jan. 24th. I note the point made by Necere in his post 9817, answering my point that he and finas were at odds. Necere's response was:
"My answer is based on how little room it leaves the tubing. Finas has
an H80i in his M1, which you can see in the gallery he linked, but with
one stock fan and one slim fan, it's very, very tight. If you're not
overclocking, I have to wonder why you'd go through the trouble."
After thinking about it: I wonder too. I just want to be able to have my i5-4670 under full load, maintain a temp notably lower than what would be accomplished with the stock boxed air-cooler. The H80i was available and I was inspired by finas's build to try water-cooling myself.

I am willing to return my H80i and go with an air-cooled option, if there is an air-cooler available that will meet my previously stated goal. Most of what I see on the shelf at Fry's impresses me as being either inferior to the stock cooler, or impossible to fit (as I found with my Hyper212Plus that was purchased for a build I never got started).

I figured if I used liquid cooling, I wouldn't have to fill up the entire case with fins as well as fans, and I wanted tinker-room, like for when I put in a modest GPU that is better than the on-board Intel one.

All the pics on this thread with air-cooling, seem to be filled with fins. Not that the liquid-cooled radiator doesn't take up space, but at least the huge fins and fans are not bolted directly to the CPU. But, on the other hand, maybe the tight fit of the cooling lines will apply torsion to the CPU just as much as the weight of a big fin assembly. ?? I don't know.

Necere took into account my build parameters and again I have to ask myself what he asked, above:
"If you're not overclocking, I have to wonder why you'd go through the trouble."

I just don't have the money to try everything to find through experience what works best. Once I go with the H80i, I will be stuck with it.

So, any comments, questions, ideas, ... I am pretty much stuck in my own mind, with using the H80i, and I'm not so sure that's the best way for me to go. I have 2 days to change my mind.
Thanks.

@finas: if you're still around here, I notice on your dropbox link to IMG_6899.JPG, the side mounted 15 blade fan (Scythe SY1212SL 12H-P). Is that for your H80i radiator? (Remember, I haven't opened the box my H80i is in). Don't the sharp bends in your cooling lines restrict coolant flow and increase wear on the pump? Does the setup allow you less restricted access to the mobo and internals than a big fin assembly?

 

[DrWattsOn]

...only really thin tubing with barbs fittings will fit.

OverRated, I don't know what that means: "barbs fittings". I've no experience with water cooling except pending build, and as said in adjacent post, I'm ready to back out.
By "fit" I'm guessing you mean over the radiator or water block connections/nipples/thingies? Not the routing to "fit in the case"? I thought you were using the H100, which I also thought was already CLC.

 

[thefivetheory]

Well seems the wait was for nothing how the F!@# are you meant to use this ? only really thin tubing with barbs fittings will fit.

Did you move your side bracket up by swapping the power connector and serial number plate? If not, that should give you enough room.

 

[OverRated]

Did you move your side bracket up by swapping the power connector and serial number plate? If not, that should give you enough room.

yes i also put two rubber washer behind the power connector to bring it out a bit so the rad had that little bit more room which did help, Im going to have to use barb fittings with no bends.

 

[charww]

The M1 DEMCiflex filters are designed for intake locations only.. .

Thank you. I guess I'll just throw a cover over the top when not in use. Seems easy for dust to get inside through the top otherwise.

 

[ZeeKay]

Is everyone shortening their tubes on the H220? I'm not directly opposed to doing it, but if leaving it stock length how are people orientating the rad and looping the tubing? I've looked at pictures and couldn't find a stock H220 or a good picture that shows how its laid out.

 

[jtiger102]

Is everyone shortening their tubes on the H220? I'm not directly opposed to doing it, but if leaving it stock length how are people orientating the rad and looping the tubing? I've looked at pictures and couldn't find a stock H220 or a good picture that shows how its laid out.

I kind of have some pictures that show the orientation of the pump and the rad once installed. It's really hard to get good pictures of the loop once the rad is in place due to the tight quarters.
http://imgur.com/a/Ms2Bb

 

[jtiger102]

How is everybody else running their H220 pump?

It seems like it only runs when running at full RPM. At least on my motherboard, when using the headers, I have to run it at full RPM. Otherwise, the pump will stop and start. I guess the Z87I-Deluxe adjusts the RPM through voltage.

I have the pump connected to one of the chassis fan headers and my rad fans connected to the CPU fan header.

Reason why I ask is that at full tilt the pump is a little loud.

Edit: Just received a response from Swiftech saying that if I connect the PWM splitter that comes with the H220 to the power supply and then use the header connection from the splitter to the motherboard that will adjust the RPM of the pump and not adjust the voltage. I'll be giving that a try to see how that goes and report back.

 

[ZeeKay]

I kind of have some pictures that show the orientation of the pump and the rad once installed. It's really hard to get good pictures of the loop once the rad is in place due to the tight quarters.
http://imgur.com/a/Ms2Bb

So the barbs on the rad are towards the back of the case, the tubing loops "out" to the front and "in" to the pump/block?

Please excuse the 30 second paint diagram:

http://i.imgur.com/9T2NX8L.png

 

[JoepieDeSnoepie!]

The cases in The Netherlands finally get delivered!

I can pick up the case tomorrow, got a receipt in my mailbox to pay 26,65 euro at a postoffice of choice.
For who wants yo know: delivered by postnl (yeey!)

 

[jtiger102]

So the barbs on the rad are towards the back of the case, the tubing loops "out" to the front and "in" to the pump/block?

Please excuse the 30 second paint diagram:

http://i.imgur.com/9T2NX8L.png

As it turns out, mine final config is slightly different.

The bottom loop comes out of the rad and loops up than to the bottom pump connection. The top rad loop loops down than to the top pump connection. Make sense?

I found the tubing seemed to like that orientation much better.

 

[ZeeKay]

As it turns out, mine final config is slightly different.

The bottom loop comes out of the rad and loops up than to the bottom pump connection. The top rad loop loops down than to the top pump connection. Make sense?

I found the tubing seemed to like that orientation much better.

Maybe I'm just confused, but you mean like the crappy diagram I drew or like, the tubing loops the same direction? Like both go clockwise, rather than the top clockwise vs bottom counterclockwise in my picture?