Try one of the floppy drives out of your other systems that you know works?
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Intel Pentium Overdrive Processor PODP5V83
- Thread starter scharfshutze009
- Start date
Try one of the floppy drives out of your other systems that you know works?
DejaWiz
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I want you to load Win 7 Ultimate on that sumbeech and report back...
You know, in 2 weeks. When the install finally finishes.
You know, in 2 weeks. When the install finally finishes.
BinarySynapse
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A 72-pin SIMM was 32-bits (or 36-bits for ECC). A full Pentium system did require two modules to fill it's 64-bit data bus. However, you're processor was crippled to work in a system that only has a 32-bit data bus. So one module should work fine.
As others have stated earlier, those so-called "Pentium Overdrive" chips were pentiums that had been soddered and neutered. The 64-bit bus was sliced in half in order for it operate on a 486 compatible motherboard. These chips had all sorts of problems on many motherboards. The C2 version of the chip had the best compatability of the three groups that came out. We had supermicro 486 motherboards where some would function (v C2) and others would not (V C1 & C3)
We also had a bunch of Compaq and HP (Were seperate companies at the time) that all the processors worked just fine in. I believe it was really luck of the draw as it were.
We had 486 overdrive chips that all worked great in any system that we plugged them into.
Also remember that "Plug and Play" had just arrived onto the scene that was causing all sorts of issues as well with these processors.
We also had a bunch of Compaq and HP (Were seperate companies at the time) that all the processors worked just fine in. I believe it was really luck of the draw as it were.
We had 486 overdrive chips that all worked great in any system that we plugged them into.
Also remember that "Plug and Play" had just arrived onto the scene that was causing all sorts of issues as well with these processors.
jojo69
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this thread is full of win
BinarySynapse
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You wouldn't have to emulate anything for that one.
And also from 2010. Not sure why it was necro-bumped.
scharfshutze009
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That will never happen because the motherboard does not support boot from CDROM, so unless you know how to install WIndows 7 by booting from a floppy it ain't happening. That and Windows 7 32-bit requires at least a 1 GHz processor, 1GB of RAM, 16GB of harddirve space, and DirectX 9 graphics device with WDDM 1.0 or higher driver.
scharfshutze009
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You can't emulate 3d acceleration in a Virtual Machine. If you do with any work arounds its extremely slow and I dont' have much interest in running classic games in software mode unless absolutely necessary.
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Firewalker81
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I know this is an old thread, but I want to reminisce; I remember buying this processor at my local Wal-Mart when I was a teenager. It was the first processor I ever purchased.
westrock2000
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32MB for only $100*
*PS you have to buy 2 to get the advertised capacity and functionality
Falkentyne
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WTH are you smoking? Right before the P83 overdrive came out, 2 GB of Edo (hell, might have been fast page) Ram was $100....
Wait, did i say 2 GB? I meant 2 MB....
Wait, did i say 2 GB? I meant 2 MB....
ultatryon@ecc
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The most expensive memory I have ever bought were 1mb 30-pin SIMMs for $100 each, and having to do them in sets of 4.
Prior to that I just scrounged around for DIP memory to get that 384k of EMS that I always wanted.
Prior to that I just scrounged around for DIP memory to get that 384k of EMS that I always wanted.
scharfshutze009
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Here are some new pictures of the computer as shown below including a current POST. I currently removed the 256MB of RAM from the Amptron DX-9700 m919v3 motherboard with Intel Pentium Overdrive Processor PODP5V83, installed a working floppy drive, put the computer in a new case as shown below and put 48MB of RAM in the computers motherboard. However I still can not get it to boot from a floppy disk could someone please explain this. I messaged the seller on ebay and he said as quoted:
"Dear scharfshutze009,
1) Read the ad. 130574723791. It says that over 64MB you start losing devices. Over 64MB you lose the floppy drive. Over 128MB something else. And over 196 you lose the sound cards. The motherboard will handle 256MB of RAM but you either have to lose the foppy and sound or figure out how to move them to a DMA that is still free. There are only 4/8 DMA channels and the motherboard uses one for every section of 64MB. Drop down to 64MB and the floppy will work. The computer can see the floppy drive and talk to it but when it tries to use a DMA channel to transfer data then nothing happens. I have never looked into this myself, either the 486 CPU can only address 64MB of external RAM or there were no 486 chipsets (the 2 or 3 chips other than the CPU) that could handle more than 64MB of address space. That is why you almost never see a 486 motherboard that can handle more than 64MB of RAM.
2) You can't have two devices at the same I/O address. You have two floppy controllers at the same I/O address that are stomping on each other. You have to remove one or disable one or move one to a different I/O address and preferrable to a different IRQ and DMA as well.
- wiredforservice"
,so if I have 48MB of RAM in the motherboard why doesn't it boot from a floppy disk?
"Dear scharfshutze009,
1) Read the ad. 130574723791. It says that over 64MB you start losing devices. Over 64MB you lose the floppy drive. Over 128MB something else. And over 196 you lose the sound cards. The motherboard will handle 256MB of RAM but you either have to lose the foppy and sound or figure out how to move them to a DMA that is still free. There are only 4/8 DMA channels and the motherboard uses one for every section of 64MB. Drop down to 64MB and the floppy will work. The computer can see the floppy drive and talk to it but when it tries to use a DMA channel to transfer data then nothing happens. I have never looked into this myself, either the 486 CPU can only address 64MB of external RAM or there were no 486 chipsets (the 2 or 3 chips other than the CPU) that could handle more than 64MB of address space. That is why you almost never see a 486 motherboard that can handle more than 64MB of RAM.
2) You can't have two devices at the same I/O address. You have two floppy controllers at the same I/O address that are stomping on each other. You have to remove one or disable one or move one to a different I/O address and preferrable to a different IRQ and DMA as well.
- wiredforservice"
,so if I have 48MB of RAM in the motherboard why doesn't it boot from a floppy disk?
Cerulean
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I wonder how an i7-3930k would perform in comparison when underclocked to 33MHz.
ccityinstaller
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Am I the only one who finds the POST image amusing? I am referring to the fact that he is using a full 1080P LCD on a 486 era system..
What is worse is that his friggin videocard (remember they weren't GPUs then) is actually useful...MY S3 Virge did nothing but DE-ACCELERATE Decent...It was a nice slideshow I guess
I still remember rocking my P100 back in 1995..We paid $2300 for it, and it came with 8MB of EDO RAM
1GB HD (oh yea!)
2MB video
33.6 ISA Soundcard/modem
14" CRT (800x600rez)
I spent 2 weeks making a boot disk in order to run Jane's ATF since it required @ least 8MB of ram, and windows wouldn't run it..Found out 2 months later after a service call that our system was shipped from the factory with a whopping 16MB of ram, which is why it was $250 more then the next model down which had the exact same specs..The sales guy @ SamsClub had been fired when we went to inquire about it..Turns out he had been stealing parts outta systems for his own use/profit...
What is worse is that his friggin videocard (remember they weren't GPUs then) is actually useful...MY S3 Virge did nothing but DE-ACCELERATE Decent...It was a nice slideshow I guess
I still remember rocking my P100 back in 1995..We paid $2300 for it, and it came with 8MB of EDO RAM
1GB HD (oh yea!)
2MB video
33.6 ISA Soundcard/modem
14" CRT (800x600rez)
I spent 2 weeks making a boot disk in order to run Jane's ATF since it required @ least 8MB of ram, and windows wouldn't run it..Found out 2 months later after a service call that our system was shipped from the factory with a whopping 16MB of ram, which is why it was $250 more then the next model down which had the exact same specs..The sales guy @ SamsClub had been fired when we went to inquire about it..Turns out he had been stealing parts outta systems for his own use/profit...
jackofalltrades
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do you have both floppies hooked up? if so unhook the second one, Did you set the jumper for the floppy drive? If memory serves me right there were jumpers for drive placement that would prevent it booting the floppy as A drive if it were set as B drive.
I have to work on old systems like these at work. Alot of older rubber injection molding machines are designed to use the work station boards very much like these.
I have to work on old systems like these at work. Alot of older rubber injection molding machines are designed to use the work station boards very much like these.
Falkentyne
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TWO things about floppy drives:
1) Did you ENABLE the floppy I/O in the BIOS itself? This is more than just setting drive A to 3.5" or 5 1/4". There may be an option to enable or disable the floppy port completely. I KNOW that the Abit BH6 had this option, and it took me a good HUGE chunk of time to figure out why I kept getting a floppy error
(but if this were the case here, it would say "Floppy disks fail (80) or (40)."
2) Did you put the floppy cable with the correct orientation? You'll know if its wrong if you have "Boot up floppy seek" enabled (should always be enabled anyway) and you don't get a floppy test during POST.
I suggest you go into the I/O area of the Bios and make sure that Boot floppy seek is set to enabled, just in case.
1) Did you ENABLE the floppy I/O in the BIOS itself? This is more than just setting drive A to 3.5" or 5 1/4". There may be an option to enable or disable the floppy port completely. I KNOW that the Abit BH6 had this option, and it took me a good HUGE chunk of time to figure out why I kept getting a floppy error
(but if this were the case here, it would say "Floppy disks fail (80) or (40)."
2) Did you put the floppy cable with the correct orientation? You'll know if its wrong if you have "Boot up floppy seek" enabled (should always be enabled anyway) and you don't get a floppy test during POST.
I suggest you go into the I/O area of the Bios and make sure that Boot floppy seek is set to enabled, just in case.
scharfshutze009
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There is only one floppy drive hooked up. It just looks like there are two floppy drives because the case manufacturer decided if would be smart to make a drive bay cover that looked like a second floppy drive. As for the jumper to set the floppy there isn't one. The jumper options are as follows:
JUMPER SETTINGS
J4 - External Battery/Clear CMOS
J8 - Keylock & Power LED
J9 - Speaker
J10 - Turbo LED
J11 - System Reset
J12 - Turbo Switch
J13 - On-Board IDE HDD LED
J14 - Green Mode Trigger Switch
JP1A & JP1B - ECP Mode DMA Channel Setting
JP2 - Flash EPROM Programming Voltage
JP3A JP3B & JP3C - CPU Clock Jumper
JP4 & JP5 (A-D) - CPU Voltage Selection
CPU Type Selection Jumper
J4 - External Battery/Clear CMOS TOP
==================================================
Jumper Pin Assignment
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2 - 3 Normal Operation
3 - 4 Clear CMOS
1 External Battery (+)
4 External Battery (-)
==================================================
Please make sure the pins 2-3 are shorted before using the system board. The systemboard is shipped from the factory with pins 3-4 shorted to prevent battery drain during storage. Failure to reset this jumper at pins 2-3 would prevent the boardfrom powering up.
J8 - Keylock & Power LED TOP
==================================================
Pin Assignment
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1 LED Power
2 Not Connected
3 Ground
4 Keyboard Lock
5 Ground
==================================================
J9 - Speaker TOP
==================================================
Pin Assignment
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1 Speaker Data Out
4 +5V
==================================================
J10 - Turbo LED TOP
==================================================
Pin Assignment
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1 LED (+)
2 LED (-)
==================================================
J11 - System Reset TOP
==================================================
Pin Assignment
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1 Reset
2 Ground
==================================================
J12 - Turbo Switch TOP
==================================================
Jumper State
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
OPEN Turbo
1 - 2 Non-Turbo
==================================================
J13 - On-Board IDE HDD LED TOP
==================================================
Pin Assignment
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1 LED (+)
2 LED (-)
==================================================
J14 - Green Mode Trigger Switch TOP
==================================================
Jumper State
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Trigger Once Green Mode
Trigger Again Normal Operation
==================================================
This is a toggle switch so please do not keep this jumper shorted or else the system will have a problem waking up or booting after a reset. For this reason, do not use the Turbo button on the system chassis for this switch, since one may forget to release the button after triggering the system into green mode.
JP1A & JP1B - ECP Mode DMA Channel Setting TOP
==================================================
State A B
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DMA 1 1 - 2 1 - 2
DMA 2 2 - 3 2 - 3
==================================================
JP2 - Flash EPROM Programming Voltage TOP
==================================================
Pin Assignment
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1 - 2 12 Volt Flash Programming
2 - 3 5 Volt Flash Programming
==================================================
JP3A JP3B & JP3C - CPU Clock Jumper TOP
==================================================
CPU Clock CPU Frequency JP3A JP3B JP3C
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
25MHz DX2-50MHz OPEN OPEN SHORT
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
33MHz DX2-66MHz SHORT SHORT SHORT
DX4-100MHz
5x86-100MHz
5x86-133MHz ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
40MHz DX-40MHz OPEN SHORT SHORT
DX2-80MHz
DX4-120MHz
5x86-120MHz
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
50MHz DX-50MHz SHORT OPEN OPEN
==================================================
JP4 & JP5(A-D) - CPU Voltage Selection TOP
==================================================
Voltage JP4 JP5A JP5B JP5C JP5D
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3.3V SHORT 1 - 2 1 - 2 1 - 2 1 - 2
4.0V OPEN 1 - 2 1 - 2 1 - 2 1 - 2
5.0V SHORT 2 - 3 2 - 3 2 - 3 2 - 3
==================================================
CPU Type Selection Jumper TOP
==================================================
| 486 NON-SL ENHANCED || 486 SL ENHANCED |
|-----------INTEL/AMD------------||--------INTEL---------|-----------------AMD----------------|
| DX, DX2 | DX2, DX4 || DX, DX2, DX4 | 486DX4+ | 5x86-133 |
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
VOLTAGE 5V 5V/3.3V 5V/3.3V 3.3V 3.3V
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
JP6 OPEN OPEN OPEN OPEN SHORT
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
JP7 SHORT SHORT OPEN OPEN OPEN
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
JP8A 2 - 3 1 - 2 2 - 3 1 - 2 1 - 2
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
JP8B OPEN OPEN OPEN OPEN OPEN ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
JP9A 2 - 3 2 - 3 1 - 2 1 - 2 1 - 2
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
JP9B OPEN OPEN 1 - 2 1 - 2 1 - 2
3 - 4 3 - 4
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
JP9C OPEN OPEN OPEN 3 - 4 3 - 4
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
JP10A 3 - 4 3 - 4 3 - 4 3 - 4 3 - 4
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
JP10B OPEN OPEN 1 - 2 1 - 2 1 - 2
3 - 4 3 - 4
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
JP10C 1 - 2 1 - 2 1 - 2 1 - 2 1 - 2
3 - 4 3 - 4 3 - 4 3 - 4 3 - 4
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
JP11 OPEN OPEN OPEN OPEN OPEN ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
JP12A 1 - 2 1 - 2 1 - 2 1 - 2 1 - 2
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
JP12B 1 - 2 2 - 3 1 - 2 1 - 2 1 - 2
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
JP13 OPEN OPEN OPEN OPEN OPEN
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
JP14 OPEN OPEN 2 - 3 2 - 3 2 - 3
4 - 5 4 - 5 4 - 5
==================================================
==================================================
| 486 SL ENHANCED |
|----------------------------------------CYRIX/IBM/SGS/TI-------------------------------------------|
| DX, DX2 | DX4-GC | DX4-GIC | 5x86 P24D PINOUT | 5x86-133 |
| DX2-80V | DX4-GP | DX4-GP4 | (100 & 120 MHz) | ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
VOLTAGE 5V/4V/3.3V 3.3V 3.3V 3.3V 3.3V
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
JP6 OPEN OPEN OPEN OPEN SHORT
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
JP7 OPEN OPEN OPEN OPEN OPEN
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
JP8A OPEN OPEN 1 - 2 1 - 2 1 - 2
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
JP8B 1 - 2 1 - 2 OPEN OPEN OPEN
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
JP9A 1 - 2 1 - 2 1 - 2 1 - 2 1 - 2
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
JP9B 1 - 2 1 - 2 1 - 2 1 - 2 1 - 2
3 - 4 3 - 4 3 - 4
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
JP9C 2 - 3 2 - 3 3 - 4 3 - 4 3 - 4
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
JP10A 3 - 4 3 - 4 3 - 4 3 - 4 3 - 4
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
JP10B 2 - 3 2 - 3 1 - 2 1 - 2 1 - 2
3 - 4 3 - 4 3 - 4
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
JP10C 1 - 2 1 - 2 1 - 2 1 - 2 1 - 2
3 - 4 3 - 4 3 - 4 3 - 4 3 - 4
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
JP11 2 - 3 2 - 3 OPEN OPEN OPEN ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
JP12A 2 - 3 2 - 3 2 - 3 1 - 2 1 - 2
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
JP12B 1 - 2 1 - 2 1 - 2 1 - 2 1 - 2
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
JP13 OPEN OPEN SHORT OPEN OPEN
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
JP14 1 - 2 1 - 2 2 - 3 2 - 3 2 - 3
3 - 4 3 - 4 4 - 5 4 - 5 4 - 5
==================================================
scharfshutze009
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Yes boot up floppy seek is enabled. However there is no jumper to disable boot from floppy. The only thing it could be is that the Adaptec SCSI controller also has a floppy drive controller and it could be conflicting with the on-board, but I tried boot to the cards Firmware and it won't let me. Also the jumper settings are as stated in one of my other replies.
scharfshutze009
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Am I the only one who finds the POST image amusing? I am referring to the fact that he is using a full 1080P LCD on a 486 era system..
What is worse is that his friggin videocard (remember they weren't GPUs then) is actually useful...MY S3 Virge did nothing but DE-ACCELERATE Decent...It was a nice slideshow I guess
I still remember rocking my P100 back in 1995..We paid $2300 for it, and it came with 8MB of EDO RAM
1GB HD (oh yea!)
2MB video
33.6 ISA Soundcard/modem
14" CRT (800x600rez)
I spent 2 weeks making a boot disk in order to run Jane's ATF since it required @ least 8MB of ram, and windows wouldn't run it..Found out 2 months later after a service call that our system was shipped from the factory with a whopping 16MB of ram, which is why it was $250 more then the next model down which had the exact same specs..The sales guy @ SamsClub had been fired when we went to inquire about it..Turns out he had been stealing parts outta systems for his own use/profit...
Why not use a Full 1080p LCD on that computer? After all it has VGA connection and the only moniter with a 4:3 aspect ratio is in use because its a 22 inch CRT with a resolution of 2048x1536, although I'm in the process of replacing it. Besides that what that monitor is for testing, diagnosing, and repairing extra computers or other people computers.
jackofalltrades
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Check out this link maybe it would help: http://jope.fi/drives/diskettes-jumpers.pdf
I wonder how an i7-3930k would perform in comparison when underclocked to 33MHz.
I don't think you could actually get it that low. The lowest I'd expect is a multi of 1x, and that would give you a 100mhz Hexcore.
There are no jumpers for drive placement, its done purely by the cable. The end is A and the middle connector is B. There are four or 6 cables in the ribbon that are cut free and twisted before the A end.
jackofalltrades
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Check my link there are jumpers on some floppy drives that have to be set under some circustances.
scharfshutze009
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I removed the SCSI hard drives and the SCSI card, but the computer still won't boot from floppy. Then I took a hard drive from a Pentium 233 MHz computer with Windows XP already installed on in and removed the 48MB and put one 64MB SIMM in the computer, but it still won't boot from anything. I'm not sure what to do with the computer at this point, but I'll keep trying.
KazeoHin
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This thread is awesome. I may break open my old 486 DX2 for some fun.
scharfshutze009
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Currently I am trying to replace the case and the power supply but I'm not sure which wires connect to the rocker switch shown here:
I know the Black is 110V Power Hot, the White is 110 Neutral, the Brown is Hot, and the Blue is Neutral. I also know that the wires on the old power supply are Black 110 Power Hot, the Yellow is 110 Nuetral, the Red is Hot, and the Green is Neutral. The wires from the old power supply are connect to the Rocker Switch as shown below. I know this because I tested it with a multi-meter.
I have a diagram I made below of the old power supply, but if the Yellow goes below the Green on the old one then the White should go below the Blue if I'm not mistaken. However on the original push butten switch that came with the AT Power Supply the Black goes above the Brown and the White goes above the Blue. I'm am just not sure though and could use some advise on how to know what terminals to connect the wires to, so I don't blow a fuse or trip the breaker. I also don't want to leave burn marks on the switch because its permanently attached to the case. Here is the diagram:
I know the Black is 110V Power Hot, the White is 110 Neutral, the Brown is Hot, and the Blue is Neutral. I also know that the wires on the old power supply are Black 110 Power Hot, the Yellow is 110 Nuetral, the Red is Hot, and the Green is Neutral. The wires from the old power supply are connect to the Rocker Switch as shown below. I know this because I tested it with a multi-meter.
I have a diagram I made below of the old power supply, but if the Yellow goes below the Green on the old one then the White should go below the Blue if I'm not mistaken. However on the original push butten switch that came with the AT Power Supply the Black goes above the Brown and the White goes above the Blue. I'm am just not sure though and could use some advise on how to know what terminals to connect the wires to, so I don't blow a fuse or trip the breaker. I also don't want to leave burn marks on the switch because its permanently attached to the case. Here is the diagram:
Last edited:
Emission
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Well if it helps you at all, the way the switch terminals are split down the middle are the way that they're connected. As follows:
X | X
A | B
C | D
The X's are the blanks. A connects to C, B connects to D. If you're unsure, use a multi-meter to double check, but this is pretty standard.
Technically, if your labels for the wires are correct, it's wired incorrectly in the bottom picture.
X | X
A | B
C | D
The X's are the blanks. A connects to C, B connects to D. If you're unsure, use a multi-meter to double check, but this is pretty standard.
Technically, if your labels for the wires are correct, it's wired incorrectly in the bottom picture.
ShuttleLuv
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Old school
scharfshutze009
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That helps a little, but how can I tell which is a side for the switch terminals and which is a side for the other terminals. Then I just put black with brown and white with blue right.
BinarySynapse
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NC = Normally closed. Your switch has these pins removed, but they connect to the pole (center pins) when the switch is in the OFF position. If you were to use these, your computer would come on when the switch was turned off.
NO = Normally open, these pins are connected to the pole (center pin) when the switch is in the ON position. These are the pins you connect your PSU feed wires (blue and brown) to.
I may have the blue and brown backwards, but it shouldn't matter since this is AC power and the PSU mfg didnt do something stupid like ground to Neutral..
scharfshutze009
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Are you saying the following is incorrect:
If so what should the correct connections be?
scharfshutze009
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NC = Normally closed. Your switch has these pins removed, but they connect to the pole (center pins) when the switch is in the OFF position. If you were to use these, your computer would come on when the switch was turned off.
NO = Normally open, these pins are connected to the pole (center pin) when the switch is in the ON position. These are the pins you connect your PSU feed wires (blue and brown) to.
I may have the blue and brown backwards, but it shouldn't matter since this is AC power and the PSU mfg didnt do something stupid like ground to Neutral..
That helps a little, but could you show me using the following picture:
scharfshutze009
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NC = Normally closed. Your switch has these pins removed, but they connect to the pole (center pins) when the switch is in the OFF position. If you were to use these, your computer would come on when the switch was turned off.
NO = Normally open, these pins are connected to the pole (center pin) when the switch is in the ON position. These are the pins you connect your PSU feed wires (blue and brown) to.
I may have the blue and brown backwards, but it shouldn't matter since this is AC power and the PSU mfg didnt do something stupid like ground to Neutral..
By the way is this similar the using the original push button switch like this:
