Ok, I see.
No, I haven't. I am using the eye one display2 calibrator.
There is no support of i1 Display 2 in this series. I guess that you calibration device is i1 Display Pro.
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Ok, I see.
No, I haven't. I am using the eye one display2 calibrator.
It is supported. I can choose which calibrator to use: the eye one display or eye1 pro, in the beginning of the calibration. It even supports the eizo cx1 calibrator I haven't tried it yet it but it is listed as an option.There is no support of i1 Display 2 in this series. I guess that you calibration device is i1 Display Pro.
If you are still not far away from you computer, you may try this
Calibrator Device: i1 Display Pro
White Point: 0.3127, 0.3290 (Daylight 6506K)
Brightness: 70 or 80cd/m2
Balck point: General values
Gamut Mapping: sRGB
Gamut Curve: sRGB ( Alter the values from LUT to sRGB)
It is supported. I can choose which calibrator to use: the eye one display or eye1 pro, in the beginning of the calibration. It even supports the eizo cx1 calibrator I haven't tried it yet it but it is listed as an option.
That's possible. But it calibrates good enough for me. If not for the tints I would be 100% satisfied with the monitor and how it is calibrated with the i1d2.I would say with 99.9% certainty that you need to replace your calibration device.
Sorry. What for? Those are the settings I use for calibration except for the brightness level. Which I've set to 200cd/m2 for gaming purposes.
I am not finished with the calibration yet. I will probably lower the luminance, but 80cd\m2 that would be too low for this display and especially gaming. So far I am trying to get rid of the red tint. I just run 7x7 homogenity calibration and it got so much worse that when you move a window down the display especially to the lower left corner it becomes RED70-80cd/m2 is enough. please note that brightness level is in close relation to backlight lifetime.
The id2 is not meant to be used with led backlit displays and the colour temperature is typically out by 500-600k. 6500k on the i1d2=6000k when measured with an accurate meter. If you can afford a 1200$ display, surely you can afford a proper colorimeter.
And 460:1 is horrible, most semi accurate TN panels will look better. The colours wont pop and the blacks will be very greyish in a bright room.
You need to buy an i1dp or you have just thrown out 1200 duckets on something you cant use properly. You can try calibrating it as many times as you want, but you are using an inaccurate and incompatible meter....
Well, that's completely irrelevant. Claiming that a monitor is factory calibrated and enclosing fake proof of calibration is fraud. It's impressive that Samsung cannot even be bothered at a $1200 price point, if this is really true. With a clear, and very distinct tint problem as shown in Murzilka's picture, it doesn't really look like a product aimed at professionals if Samsung allows that sort of deviation. If it is possible to perform some sort of compensation that works, it will still result in a loss of tonal color values in that region.Does it really matter whether or not the factory calibration is good? You're going to want to abuse the hardware calibration feature on this monitor anyway, right? Or am I missing something here?
That isn't really 'enough' for viewing in daylight on a glossy monitor. And with LED backlights they generally have a long enough useful life even at 100% brightness. It is up to the person, their preferences and lighting conditions to dictate the brightness. If he is comfortable using 200 cd/m2 for gaming then good for him.
I just did a calibration run which gave me 800:1 of contrast. Still learning how to use this software. Looks like I need to go back in target options to have low black point. Like select low black point then select color temperature then select gamma then go back to the black level selection and only then the software will target the lowest black point possible, otherwise it will default to 0.4 regardless your selection.
The colors do pop but this tint, ruins all the fun.
Look up the LTM270DL02 and you will have relevant information about its backlight lifetime =30000 hours, which is roughly 30%-40% less of typical ccfl backlight lifetime.( sRGB LM240WU7 for 50000 hours, P-IPS WCG LM240WU4 for 45000 hours)
Yes, I tried the uniformity function but only 5x5, not the 7x7, in hope that it will correct the tint, but unfortunately it did nothing to it.
Here is my current profile, I think it is good:
http://www.2shared.com/file/3Jzax4Gf/newhomo.html
The profile is stored in the monitor hardware, so windows still uses the stansart sRGB profile, but I found the profile file that corresponds to the name of the hardware generated profile, and that is the one I uploaded.
Yeah I would say it's rather a multimedia display with advanced features. But it is also suited for professional color work. I think. Especially in no-light environment.From the recent information I gather, all things indicate that SB970 is not suitable for professionals.
Any better Reviews of this monitor or has anyone else buyed it yet???
It's a normal behaviour. The monitor loads its calibration data in a such way.received the unit and can't figure out why when you power it on the immediate on-screen calibration flickers and changes the color to something warmer! any clue?