Gigabyte X58A-UD3R Thread

epicstruggle said:
Hi,
I started a thread about this issue here:
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1536667

Will read the posts in this thread to see if anyone else has had my problems. It boils down to 2 of these motherboards having similar issues, not recognizing all 12 gigs of ram and the latest board not properly recognizing the cpu frequency.
Click to expand...

I can't remember if it's the same issue for this board (been reading up on too many x58 boards... lol), but I think many other boards usually experience this either have bent pins or bad slots if the individual sticks are fine.
 
are these bad pins on the cpu socket or the memory slots? God I hope this doesnt fuck up the cpu.
 
epicstruggle said:
are these bad pins on the cpu socket or the memory slots? God I hope this doesnt fuck up the cpu.
Click to expand...

it's not that they're bad pins (I think it was on the cpu socket), some where along the line they some how got bent (whether it happened in the factory, shipping or by the consumer hasn't been determined that I know of though). I know for sure this was a problem with the asus rog maximus II gene, but can't remember what other boards had this problem too (I'm sure there have been a few others). if you can inspect both the cpu socket and ram slots I'd definitely check it out, and if they are bent I'm sure you can have it replaced free (possibly with cost of shipping, but that's cheaper than a new board).

edit; it shouldn't hurt the cpu if this is the case, all it would mean is that a pin or a few isn't making (good) contact.
 
maro said:
Try memory sticks in the white slots. Using the blue slots before using white has caused memory problems with some people.

Make sure the supplemental EPS 12v connector (8 pin connector upper left of board) is connected.

Supplemental PCIe power to the video cards (2 - 6+2pin connectors marked PCI-E & don't try to use the extra 2 pins).

That's all I have for now ... I mention cause they're commonly forgotten.
Click to expand...

Mem has always been in the white slots. 12v power is connected, and the PCIe power is coming from my PSU - also connected.

On my second motherboard. I got it from amazon - and there is a post on amazon about someone having to deal with gigabyte tech support because amazon stock was old and didn't have an updated bios to support the i7-930? All I know is I'm about to throw this thing out a window because it's not working.
 
WaywardWit said:
...amazon stock was old and didn't have an updated bios to support the i7-930...
Click to expand...

There are 2 revisions of this board. Rev 2 supports 930. Rev 1 shows needing bios F4 or later for 930. No way of knowing what bios without a post screen. The board revision is printed on the lower left corner of the board (or at least on my Rev 1.0 it is).

Unless you have a 920 you could borrow you won't be able to update bios but you may be able to return to Amazon and ask they send you a rev 2 which has some improvements over the rev 1.


... assuming your PSU, memory, GPU's are ok which I'm assuming they are. I s'pose the next suggestion would be maybe trying those on your friend's computer to confirm they're not DOA.

Sorry if my last couple posts make me sound like Captain Obvious - just throwing some easy things out there :D
 
Just ordered this board and remembered the poor PCI slot placement, as I plan on SLI'ing, is there any chance whatsoever I'll be able to get my sound card in there?
 
Blind Man said:
Just ordered this board and remembered the poor PCI slot placement, as I plan on SLI'ing, is there any chance whatsoever I'll be able to get my sound card in there?
Click to expand...

Your best bet is probably to get a PCI-E or USB/1394 solution... or a different board.
 
Blind Man said:
Just ordered this board and remembered the poor PCI slot placement, as I plan on SLI'ing, is there any chance whatsoever I'll be able to get my sound card in there?
Click to expand...

And the GA-X58A-UD3R is not the only mobo that has its PCI slot located so that it is completely blocked by a graphics card that has a double-slot cooler. Most of the other X58 motherboards also have their one or two PCI slots that are also completely blocked when you install two graphics cards with double-slot coolers. The Intel DX58SO's single PCI slot does not get blocked by a double-slot graphics card cooler, but both of its PCI-e x1 slots will get blocked by such graphics cards if you install two of them.

So in other words, all motherboards have most of their PCI and/or PCI-e x1 slots located where they can be too easily blocked by double-slot graphics card coolers. And because of this, my recommendation is to ditch the internal sound card completely and use only the motherboard's onboard audio.
 
Yeah I'm having the same issue, looks like I'll be getting a PCIe soundcard with this motherboard and using it in the lowest x16 or the second x1 slot.

Can anybody here confirm that SATA3/USB3 speeds do or don't get impeded when SLi/Crossfire are enabled and the 2 slots are running at full x16 speeds?
 
Hello.

I just ordered GTX460 SLI set for me and I have been trying to figure out which BIOS update added SLI support for my MoBo ( X58-UD3R Rev. 1, not this new one ). I didn't find here thread for that MoBo, but these two are pretty much same, mine just doesn't have USB3 or SATA6Gbps support.
 
The last few days I have been getting a strange odor coming from my pc, and I can only really track it down to this board. It's been hot here lately, so my temps have been a bit high, but I have adjusted my cooling and gotten the temps back down to normal, yet I am still getting a real strange odor coming from the system when its on.

Somewhere between Body odor and electrical burning, but neither really explains the smell. Its not the usual burnt electronics smell I am used to.

Any ideas? I'd really hate to put an RMA request in saying "this thing literally stinks!"
 
Ok...so I just picked this up. Made the switch from an original Maximus. Now I knew it was going to be a bit of a budget board, but they left some big things out IMO. First off, the CMOS switch in the back cannot be turned off, right? So going to LAN parties will now be an even scarier event. More so because there doesn't seem to be any way to save OC profiles in the BIOS. The Asus had 3, a way to turn off the CMOS button, and it listed ALL of my voltages. The Gigabyte omits several big ones, including qpi/vtt. I'm new to X58, but I would think that would be important to know.

Anybody help me out or do I need to jump ship and run back to Asus?
 
Jodiuh said:
Ok...so I just picked this up. Made the switch from an original Maximus. Now I knew it was going to be a bit of a budget board, but they left some big things out IMO. First off, the CMOS switch in the back cannot be turned off, right? So going to LAN parties will now be an even scarier event. More so because there doesn't seem to be any way to save OC profiles in the BIOS. The Asus had 3, a way to turn off the CMOS button, and it listed ALL of my voltages. The Gigabyte omits several big ones, including qpi/vtt. I'm new to X58, but I would think that would be important to know.

Anybody help me out or do I need to jump ship and run back to Asus?
Click to expand...

If you press the CMOS button while in the OS, it won't do anything.

You can save profiles in the BIOS, press F11.

Look in MB Intelligent Tweaker → Advanced Voltage Settings → QPI/Vtt Voltage
 
I found the 8 nameable profiles that can be saved to the cmos or a storage device right after I posted that. This easily negates the inability to disable the clr cmos button on the io.

So the button will only work when shutdown? What about sleep states?

The setting in advanced voltage does not show me what the sensor is reading. I'm looking for something in PC health like the vcore or dram sensors to make sure I'm within limits.

I saw the ud9 doesn't even do this, but the rampage 2 extreme gives all the sensors.

Also, when selecting the xmp? profile, it bumps up the qpi volts from 1.2 to 1.7. Would the. Manual setting in the main voltage control override that or do I need to set timings manually?

Thanks.
 
I think because I'm just plain cautious, that I never worry about accidentally pressing the CMOS button.

As for reading the other voltages, try downloading the latest EasyTune software. Don't use it to overclock in Windows, merely for reading voltages.

I've never had to use XMP (then again, my sticks don't have them ;)). I would manually input all of the settings/timings to be safe. Usually Vtt/QPI is the trickiest to maintain since it can vary between chip. Some might need 1.220v, others up to 1.45v. I think G.Skill and even Crucial recommended ~1.6v on some of their modules. Would I go that far? Yeah, no.
 
Thanks, I'm "easing" my way into the 8 different gigaprograms. I'm having a hard time w/ Dynamic Energy Saver though. It doesn't really seem to be doing anything. I can't click on Dual Power and some settings won't save. But I did a little tweaking in the BIOS and here's where I'm at.

4 pics: stock @ idle and load and oc @ idle and load
Cooling is done w/ a lapped TRUE (rev 2 mount) and an A1926 @ 1450RPM in a Stacker 810 w/ 3 SFLEX E's up front, 2 in the middle, and 2 AF12's in the rear. Loads were done w/ Linx/all. Ambient was around 26~27.

Either I put too much paste, the mount's funky (it doesn't seem to lay evenly on all sides), or my TRUE's broken. I do have a big dent in one of the heatpipes. No idea how it happened, but it looks like I went to town on it w/ a pair of thick pliers. :( I never removed an checked for contact cause I was too excited, heh. I suppose the CPU could be concave like an old P4 630 I had. Any ideas? Do temps on the board look in ok?

stockidle26cambient.jpg
stockload26cambient.jpg


38Ghzidle27cambient.jpg

38Ghzload27cambient.jpg
 
Does anyone here know if you can shut off the LED's on the board? Everything was cool until i started overclocking. Now this lame blue LED comes on to tell me the CPU is overclocked (like I didnt already know :rolleyes: ) The problem is that my comp runs 24/7 in my bedroom in a case with a window and that stupid blue LED is BRIGHT. It seriously bathes my room in a rediculous blue glow. I'd rather not resort to putting some electrical tape on there, but unless I can shut the damn things off it might come to that. Any ideas?
 
dandragonrage said:
Coil whine with this board
This board has considerable coil whine with certain power supplies. I suspect that it is a combination of specific high frequency harmonics present in some power supplies that resonate with the coils on the motherboard. Not all power supplies do this. I will try to compile reports of whine with this board in this post. Note that disabling the power states (e.g. C1E) in the BIOS resolves the whine for some people but it does raise the idle power draw. It also goes away for some people when they overvolt. YMMV.

I will try to compile a list from this thread. I may get bored of doing so. I'm still putting people under "reported whine" if they say C1E or other workarounds fix it for them, though I may note that. If I've got your info down wrong, privmsg me, but please do not privmsg me to add you to the list. I will update it when I feel like it until I get bored of doing so.


Reported whine
Seasonic S12-600HT - Dansolo - Rev 1.0
Antec Earthwatts EA430 - Dansolo - Rev 1.0
Corsair 750TX - SlithereenSlardar - Rev 2.0
Corsair HX750 - SlithereenSlardar - Rev 2.0 (goes away with C1E, C3/C6/C7 disabled)
Antec Truepower New 550W - ToddW2 - Rev 1.0
Antec Truepower New 650W - sephiroth99 - Rev 1.0
Seasonic X650 - 4x4not - Rev 1.0
Corsair 850TX - Sparktz - Rev 1.0
? - Primus - Rev 1.0
Seasonic S12+ 650W - madmax187 - Rev 2.0
Corsair HX1000 - Frenchc - Rev 1.0
PCP&C Silencer 750 - E4g1e - Rev 1.0
Corsair 750TX - dizolit - Rev 1.0 (goes away with C1E disabled)
Corsair TX750W - kobabuta - Rev 1.0
Corsair TX750W - kobabuta - Rev 2.0
Corsair 750TX(?) - Cancerkiller - Rev 1.0
Corsair HX620 - chiggah - Rev 2.0 (goes away with C1E disabled)

Reported fine
OCZ Z550 - Dansolo - Rev 1.0
Thermaltake Toughpower Modular 850W - EliteComputerBuilds - Rev 1.0
Thermaltake Toughpower Modular 1000W - EliteComputerBuilds - Rev 1.0
Antec CP-850 - ToddW2 - Rev 1.0 & 2.0
Antec Truepower Blue 750W - craziplaya21 - Rev 1.0
Silverstone ST75F-P - depraved (C1E disabled, untested enabled) - Rev 1.0
Corsair HX750 - Soujiro - Rev 1.0
Seasonic X650 - rogercomley - Rev 1.0
PC Power & Cooling 510w SLI - kortik - Rev 1.0
Corsair 620W (model?) - Milehigh - Rev 1.0
Antec CP-850 - GetFunk01 - Rev 1.0
PCP&C Silencer 750 Quad (Seasonic) - shansoft - Rev 1.0
Click to expand...

The whine happens with my power supply too!! Disabling C1E fixes it.

Does anyone know if this is fixed with rev2 of this board???

Is anyone able to get Win7 sleep mode to work with this board??? Sleep seems to work 10% of the time, most of the time if goes to sleep and then fully shuts down!!! Any advice?
 
One of the reasons I returned this board. Have an Asus P7P55D-E Pro now and it sleeps just fine.
 
dandragonrage said:
I'm going to mount a Scythe Mini Kaze Ultra 40mm fan on it. On top of the heatsink. Obviously going to remove the Gigabyte logo things. I will also be remounting the heatsinks using MX-3 and trying to tighten them down more, possibly converting to nuts and bolts.
Click to expand...

dandragonrage - did you remove the Gigabyte logo on the north bridge? Is it glued on or...
 
I just disabled hybrid sleep in Windows power settings in 7 64 bit (it's under Sleep in the advanced power settings) and now it's fine. I'm pretty happy with this board, though I'm still getting to grips with the BIOS. Obviously also turn off hibernation.

Hybrid sleep fails 10-20% of the time on my Asus laptop W7-64 laptop, it's just buggy. Turn it off and it'll do S3 standby fine. The thing is, everytime you hybrid sleep Windows writes all the RAM to disk (well, maybe not all, but anything open and in memory,) which is a fairly large data read/write, and takes a while to restore when it works anyway. Just turn it off.
 
sluzbenik said:
I just disabled hybrid sleep in Windows power settings in 7 64 bit (it's under Sleep in the advanced power settings) and now it's fine. I'm pretty happy with this board, though I'm still getting to grips with the BIOS. Obviously also turn off hibernation.

Hybrid sleep fails 10-20% of the time on my Asus laptop W7-64 laptop, it's just buggy. Turn it off and it'll do S3 standby fine. The thing is, everytime you hybrid sleep Windows writes all the RAM to disk (well, maybe not all, but anything open and in memory,) which is a fairly large data read/write, and takes a while to restore when it works anyway. Just turn it off.
Click to expand...

Hybrid sleep is so off. Not a great use of my SSD, especially if sleep would actually work.
 
Anyone running an NH-D14?

I know its compatible, but would love to run it so it exhaust upwards out my top fan.

This is my 1 big hold back on buying this board, so if anyone has the answer, I'd realy appreciate it.
 
Has anyone tried the beta bios F7G for rev 1.0? I was told to flash to F7F before installing my SSD, but I can only find F7G on gigabyte site.
 
Bluemustang said:
Has anyone tried the beta bios F7G for rev 1.0? I was told to flash to F7F before installing my SSD, but I can only find F7G on gigabyte site.
Click to expand...

I have. The layout is vastly different than the F5, I like it a lot better, but the Detecting IRQ settings adds about 5-10secs to load time compared to the F5 bios.
 
Hm, I just downloaded the new bios, extracted the zip and moved it to my usb drive. Then moved the files into the recyle bin. The 2 files (zipped and unzipped bios) removed themselves from the recycle bin and put FLASHSPI.exe and Autoexec.bat on my desktop.
What is this and should I worry?
 
Bluemustang said:
Hm, I just downloaded the new bios, extracted the zip and moved it to my usb drive. Then moved the files into the recyle bin. The 2 files (zipped and unzipped bios) removed themselves from the recycle bin and put FLASHSPI.exe and Autoexec.bat on my desktop.
What is this and should I worry?
Click to expand...

I think it is just their windows bios flashing app, it was there when I extracted it. I used the @bios program instead that they provide. No need to worry, just delete it again.
 
Yeah after reading around a bit I think the 2 extra files are used to make a bootable flash drive. Thanks for the help.
 
Found a couple of new option ROMs, so F7G modded again:
Intel Matrix RAID 8.9 -> 10.1.0.1008
JMicron JMB363 1.07.06 -> 1.08.01
Realtek PXE 2.37

Too lazy to upload it to Rapidshare but you can get it from the bios-mods link from the previous post.
 
Thought I'd add my Silverstone da700 doesn't cause the whine.

And easytune got my 950 to 4.0ghz at 1.30Vcore in about 5 minutes.

EDIT

Its a rev 2
 
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The FVA bios fixes sleep for me, but does not fix the coil whine. I think I'm RMAing for Rev.2.
 
Picked me up one of these along with an i7 950, and 2 3x4GB Corsair XMS 2000 DDR3 kits.

Still stability testing, but for the most part it was pretty simple.

Currently stable at:
3.6ghz 1.175V 60ish C
3.8ghz 1.225V 65ish C
we'll see where else she goes... Hoping to get 4.2 out of it, but 3.8 ain't bad.


RAM was finicky. It wouldn't run at the profile, but considering I'm using all six slots I'm not surprised. It's at 1600mhz.
Any time I mess with the QPI(?) Voltage it refuses to boot, so no help there. No coil whine, and no problems with ram not being seen.

The BIOS improvement was amazing, coming from an EX38-DQ6.
 
Just update everyone, just picked up rev2. When enabling power saving in windows or C3/C6/C7 state in the bios, throttling works and the whine returns. Anyone tried sending to gigabyte for repair???
 
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