HeatKiller 3.0 Socket 1366.....WOW!!!

magoo

[H]F Junkie
2FA
Joined
Oct 21, 2004
Messages
14,701
I bought this HeatKiller 3.0 last week.

Son-of-a-bitch..........this thing is a monster.

Not only does it weigh a ton, it cools like a motherfu--er.:eek::eek: and looks so purdy.

On my set, compared to a Swiftech GTZ, I am a full 10C lower and the flow in my loop is outrageous.

The build of this thing is just beautiful, assembly was a piece of cake, and the materials are precision all the way.

If you need a new block......get you one of these bad boys......it's the real deal straight up.

(I am not affiliated with anyone who sells or owns HeatKiller.....I wish I did because these are the schizzle.:D)
 
Yeah, I just got mine a few days ago and I have to agree, it does help keep temps under control.
 
How did you get a Heatkiller?! They were like all out of stock everywhere! I settled for a Dtek Fuzion 2.0. Anyone know how they compare? Haven't installed it yet...
 
They were in stock at sidewinder earlier in the week. They only had them available for a day or two. Now they even sell the mounting conversion kits. So you can buy a 775 heatkiller and swap out the mounting plate for a 1366 if you can't find the 1366 in stock. This is more expensive, but at least it gives you some flexibility and as you can tell people took advantage of this option, because now the 775 version is OOS...lol

Here is a pic of mine.
P1050484.jpg

P1050483.jpg


...and here are the results I am seeing.
41ghzstable.jpg
 
Wow your loads are high 50's/ low 60's with the heatkiller at 1.4v?

Makes me kinda wish I knew about this when I bought my kit a week ago. I'm not complaining I load at same temps but I'm at 1.36.

What is your rad setup?
 
Heatkiller, PA120.3, and 355 in one loop and MCW60, PA120.3, and 355 in a second loop. My CPU loop uses a Reservoir and my GPU loop uses a t-line.

Currently my second loop isn't connected to anything...lol I haven't gotten up the nerve to remove the HS from my GPU and put it under water. My x1900xt suddenly went dead after years of being under water and it has me kind of spooked.
 
195.5 x 21 = 4.105ghz
VCORE - 1.4v
DRAM - set to 1.55v, but shows 1.66v
VTT - 1.38v

I guess I should also mention that this is with turbo and HT on. All the other stuff is pretty much set to auto. The one short coming of my system is my RAM. With this clock my timings auto adjusted to 10's across the board. I haven't tried lowering the timings yet.
 
Heatkiller, PA120.3, and 355 in one loop and MCW60, PA120.3, and 355 in a second loop. My CPU loop uses a Reservoir and my GPU loop uses a t-line.

Currently my second loop isn't connected to anything...lol I haven't gotten up the nerve to remove the HS from my GPU and put it under water. My x1900xt suddenly went dead after years of being under water and it has me kind of spooked.

I get similar temps and I'm using a single loop with a Luna Rev. A and room temps of 26c. My VCore is also higher at 1.45v and I'm clocked at 4.2GHz with HT enabled.

Worth mentioning that I'm not using Thermo chill rads either. I have two rads. A Swiftech MCR320 and a Black Ice GTS 240 with two MCP655 pumps. My video cards are cooled by DangerDen FC 4870X2/4870 blocks.

EDIT: I should mention that the 9800GT is not watercooled. It is a PhysX GPU (although this is still finicky under Windows 7).
 
Last edited:
Before I set up these two loops I was using both 355's in the same loop. I was running two blocks and one of them was pretty restrictive. Having two pumps increases the flow, which in theory should decrease the temps. 655's have a higher heat dump than 355's though, so I'm sure there is some performance loss there.
 
Before I set up these two loops I was using both 355's in the same loop. I was running two blocks and one of them was pretty restrictive. Having two pumps increases the flow, which in theory should decrease the temps. 655's have a higher heat dump than 355's though, so I'm sure there is some performance loss there.

Yeah the HeatKiller is a restrictive block while the Luna Rev A is not at all restrictive. That might be the difference. All I know is my rig runs uber quiet. I'm using Yate Loon D12SL-12 120MM fans throughout the system. They're rated for 1350RPM but spin at 1200RPM in actuality according to my fan controller.
 
Yeah the HeatKiller is a restrictive block while the Luna Rev A is not at all restrictive. That might be the difference. All I know is my rig runs uber quiet. I'm using Yate Loon D12SL-12 120MM fans throughout the system. They're rated for 1350RPM but spin at 1200RPM in actuality according to my fan controller.

I use the same fans on my rad. I have a multitude of fans in my case though...lol My GPU rad has denki's on it. The heatkiller isn't that restrictive of a block...although more than yours. Either way a more restrictive block with less pump should be less efficient than a low/no restriction block with more pump.
 
Yeah the HeatKiller is a restrictive block while the Luna Rev A is not at all restrictive. That might be the difference. All I know is my rig runs uber quiet. I'm using Yate Loon D12SL-12 120MM fans throughout the system. They're rated for 1350RPM but spin at 1200RPM in actuality according to my fan controller.

Actually that statement is false. The HeatKiller v3 is one of the less restrictive blocks out there. The Luna is extremely free-flowing though and makes most other blocks look restrictive in comparison.
 
Actually that statement is false. The HeatKiller v3 is one of the less restrictive blocks out there. The Luna is extremely free-flowing though and makes most other blocks look restrictive in comparison.

The water nearly blows the back of my reservoir off.
The HK has the best flow of any block I've used; and I've had a GTX,GTZ and EK Supreme all in this loop at one time or another.......temp has never been better.
 
How did you get a Heatkiller?! They were like all out of stock everywhere! I settled for a Dtek Fuzion 2.0. Anyone know how they compare? Haven't installed it yet...

The Sidewinder guy said he sold out in 28 hours between Monday and Tuesday last week.

I got a tip he would have them, and got lucky.
 
Yeah, I got lucky and woke up early to drive to Atlanta to get a $230 i7 920. I checked evga forums before I left and saw a post saying they had some.
 
I ordered the LT version which should be here in the next day or so, and I was just wondering about the orientation of the block. I read somewhere that it's better to have the outlet above the inlet (inlet is the middle, correct)? I can't recall exactly what was said because the forum had a revert recently and I can't find the post. Also does anyone have a picture of the HK mounted with the back plate? Once again I read that it's not necessary, but just curious. One last question, did you really tighten to the spec that they wanted in the instructions or just what "felt right?" Dont have a caliper... don't feel like buying one for this lol
 
I ordered the LT version which should be here in the next day or so, and I was just wondering about the orientation of the block. I read somewhere that it's better to have the outlet above the inlet (inlet is the middle, correct)? I can't recall exactly what was said because the forum had a revert recently and I can't find the post. Also does anyone have a picture of the HK mounted with the back plate? Once again I read that it's not necessary, but just curious. One last question, did you really tighten to the spec that they wanted in the instructions or just what "felt right?" Dont have a caliper... don't feel like buying one for this lol

The inlet is in the middle. Other than that, mounting orientation will have little effect on temps given the results of that test you are talking about over at XS. The difference was 0.6°C which could be accounted for just by mounting the block two different times, regardless of orientation. The backplate is highly recommended. It helps a lot with pressure distribution and could save you from warping and/or breaking your board if you overtighten. I have it mounted using the backplate but did not take any pics unfortunately. Definitely try and get as close as possible to the recommended measurements. You don't necessarily have to use calipers. It would be very easy to seriously overtighten with this mounting mechanism so I would say it's a bad idea to just go by feel.
 
The inlet is in the middle. Other than that, mounting orientation will have little effect on temps given the results of that test you are talking about over at XS. The difference was 0.6°C which could be accounted for just by mounting the block two different times, regardless of orientation. The backplate is highly recommended. It helps a lot with pressure distribution and could save you from warping and/or breaking your board if you overtighten. I have it mounted using the backplate but did not take any pics unfortunately. Definitely try and get as close as possible to the recommended measurements. You don't necessarily have to use calipers. It would be very easy to seriously overtighten with this mounting mechanism so I would say it's a bad idea to just go by feel.

I just tightened mine by measuring 19mm on a piece of thin cardboard and did the best I could to tighten each screw to that height, wasn't hard; but I think it's a good idea to get as close as you can.

I also use a backplate. Install was a snap.

By the way, Sidewindercomputers.com has these back in stock as of this afternoon, but they sure sell out fast.
 
Anybody know if compression fittings will fit on that block?...for 1/2" x 3/4" tubing.
 
Whats a '45'? I have the D-Tek fuzion 2.0 and could not get compression fittings to fit for 7/16 Tygon....
 
You mean those 45 or 90 degree angle ones? What's the difference between those and the ones I linked?

He's talking about a rotary adapter. They are skinnier than the compression fittings, and allow you to place your compression fitting farther away from the face of the water block. The Heatkiller's inlet and outlet are too close together to use compression fittings side by side -- there's just not enough clearance. Using the rotary adapter gets the fitting far enough away from the other fitting to use.
 
Back
Top