Advice on new build

[guitarfly]

I posted this earlier in the mobo section. Based on all the suggestions there, I came up with a new build. I want to do SLI, because I may be doing gaming on my 2560x1600 monitor. However, starting out I will just get one video card and see how it runs. Let me know what you think of the new revision. Any changes I missed in the other thread? Any problems/bottlenecks?

Thanks alot!

Case:
SILVERSTONE TJ09-B Black Aluminum ATX Mid Tower
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811163075
$279.99

Power Supply:
CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX ATX12V / EPS12V 750W Power
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139006
$179.99

Motherboard:
EVGA 122-CK-NF68-A1 LGA 775 NVIDIA nForce 680i SLI ATX
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813188013
$259.99

CPU:
Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 Kentsfield 2.4GHz 2 x 4MB L2 Cache LGA 775 Processor
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115017
$279.99

Heatsink:
Thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme CPU Cooler - Retail
Scythe S-FLEX SFF21E 120mm Case Fan - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835109140
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185005&Tpk=SCYTHE%2bSFF21E
$64.99 + $14.99

RAM:
G.SKILL 4GB(2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231122
$144.99

Video card:
EVGA 768-P2-N887-AR GeForce 8800Ultra Superclocked 768MB 384-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 HDCP Ready SLI Supported
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130093
$729.99

Hard Drive:
Western Digital Caviar SE16 WD3200AAKS 320GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136074
$80.00 x 3 = $240 (2 in raid with third for data)

DVD Drive:
SAMSUNG Black 20X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 12X DVD+R DL 20X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2MB Cache SATA 20X DVD±R DVD Burner - OEM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827151153
$33.99

OS:
Microsoft Windows Vista 64-Bit Ultimate for System Builders Single Pack DVD - OEM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116215
$179.99

Sound:
onboard

Total: $2370

 

[engiNURD]

Looks good to me except for that Plextor. Ditch it for a Samsung, Lite-On, Pioneer, or NEC. Plextors arent worth the extra money.

Get the RE2 YS drives for RAID instead of the KS drives. Keep the standalone drive the KS model. I like Seagates better, though, since they have 5yr warranties (as do the RE2 drives).

Stock cooling? No 3rd party cooler? If you want recommendations, check your other thread for my post. I highly suggest replacing the stock cooler if you'll be OC'ing at all... and even if you're not, it would still be a good idea.

 

[guitarfly]

Looks good to me except for that Plextor. Ditch it for a Samsung, Lite-On, Pioneer, or NEC. Plextors arent worth the extra money.

Get the RE2 YS drives for RAID instead of the KS drives. Keep the standalone drive the KS model. I like Seagates better, though, since they have 5yr warranties (as do the RE2 drives).

Stock cooling? No 3rd party cooler? If you want recommendations, check your other thread for my post. I highly suggest replacing the stock cooler if you'll be OC'ing at all... and even if you're not, it would still be a good idea.

Swapped out for a Samsung. Is that a good one?

For the "RE2 YS" drives, are you saying something like:
Western Digital Caviar RE2 WD4000YS 400GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136068?

What is the difference between the RE2 YS and KS drives?

Would I be better off going for something like:
Seagate ST3500631NS 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148286?

or this:
Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 ST3500320AS 500GB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148288&Tpk=N82E16822148288

I don't plan on oc'ing at this point, but I think I should probably get some good cooling. I am adding the ultra.

 

[Anchen]

Just a quick check, are you ordering everything from newegg? If so, is there a particular reason?

 

[engiNURD]

The Samsung 18x works great for me, so the 20x shouldn't be much different.

The KS is the desktop version of the enterprise RE2 YS drives. The YS drives are meant to be run in RAID configuration, and therefore include special features like RAFF and TLER. Running the KS drives in RAID may or may not invoke the TLER bug and your drive(s) may or may not drop from the array due to error correction.

I'm running a couple regular 'cuda .10's in RAID0 right now and they're great (and FAST!)! The 'cuda ES drives are server class, just like the RE2 drives from WD -- but I don't think Seagate has fancy names for their implementations of RAFF and TLER. Either should do, but I'd go for the YS drives since they seem to be cheaper than the Seagates.

The Ultra120 is a bit overkill if you're not OC'ing. The Ultima90 would be a better choice since its not far behind the Ultra120, yet its smaller, lighter, and cheaper. If you do plan on some heavy OC'ing in the future, stick with the Ultra.

 

[guitarfly]

Just a quick check, are you ordering everything from newegg? If so, is there a particular reason?

Yeah, newegg seemed to have some of the best prices on stuff. Alot of the newegg stuff has free shipping too. I hear they are also fast to ship stuff out. Is there other sites that I should check out?

 

[guitarfly]

The Samsung 18x works great for me, so the 20x shouldn't be much different.

The KS is the desktop version of the enterprise RE2 YS drives. The YS drives are meant to be run in RAID configuration, and therefore include special features like RAFF and TLER. Running the KS drives in RAID may or may not invoke the TLER bug and your drive(s) may or may not drop from the array due to error correction.

I'm running a couple regular 'cuda .10's in RAID0 right now and they're great (and FAST!)! The 'cuda ES drives are server class, just like the RE2 drives from WD -- but I don't think Seagate has fancy names for their implementations of RAFF and TLER. Either should do, but I'd go for the YS drives since they seem to be cheaper than the Seagates.

The Ultra120 is a bit overkill if you're not OC'ing. The Ultima90 would be a better choice since its not far behind the Ultra120, yet its smaller, lighter, and cheaper. If you do plan on some heavy OC'ing in the future, stick with the Ultra.

Got it - thanks. I'll get the YS then and also the samsung dvd writer. I'm thinking I might shell out the extra for the ultra. I'm not sure if I might get into the OC'ing thing or not - I've never overclocked any of my previous systems. Just thought of another question - I have seen references to "thermal grease" on these forums. Do I need that if I am going to use a HSF?

Thanks again!

 

[Anchen]

Yeah, newegg seemed to have some of the best prices on stuff. Alot of the newegg stuff has free shipping too. I hear they are also fast to ship stuff out. Is there other sites that I should check out?

Newegg is a great etailer in general with good prices, and they have good customer service, and yes they do have some of the fastest shipping of any company I've seen. However, I'll list some options and notes to consider:

Q6600 - Newegg doeesn't guarentee a G0 stepping, and while you say you aren't overclocking, you may feel a desire for it at some point. It isn't that hard. The G0 runs cooler, and uses less power, and doesn't cost anymore, so if you have the option to get one guaranteed then I would do so. ClubIT is one such place, and it is about the same price: http://www.clubit.com/product_detail.cfm?itemno=A1938452

750TX - Newegg, although it usually has very competitive prices for a lot of things, seems to always overcharge for power supplies in my opinion. You could save 20 bucks if you pick up the TX at ZipZoomFly instead for 159.99 - the 25 dollar rebate that is at both ZZF and Newegg: http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/ProductDetail.jsp?ProductCode=10007112

Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme + Scythe SFF21E: You can save a bit of money by picking these two items at JabTech, although the shipping may partially offset it. They have the Scythe SFF21E for 13.95 + the Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme for 56.95.

Also, the TJ09 you are going to purchase is a very nice case (I got one myself) but be noted that it only has 2 of the fans installed out of a max of 5 (it doesn't ship with the two top case fans, or the HDD fan). Also, some people don't like the output of the included silverstone fans. Consider picking up some relatively cheap fans at Jabtech while you are getting the heatsink and scythe there and you can lump the shipping a bit. Many people go for these Yate Loon's for 3.50 a pop: http://www.jab-tech.com/YATE-LOON-120mm-Case-Fan-D12SL-12-pr-3009.html

Maybe these prices aren't that significant given your overall build, so go with what you want really, just wanted to mention there are occasionally cheaper prices elsewhere.

EDIT: Some thermal compounds such as Arctic Silver 5 or Arctic MX-2 claim better temperatures than generic grease that usually comes with heatsinks, however almost all heatsinks should come with a tube of grease. So you don't really need to get it if you aren't going to overclock, as you will get some provided that is good enough for regular use, but if you do want to overclock and aren't happy with the temps with the regular paste, you can consider MX-2 for instance.

 

[guitarfly]

Newegg is a great etailer in general with good prices, and they have good customer service, and yes they do have some of the fastest shipping of any company I've seen. However, I'll list some options and notes to consider:

Q6600 - Newegg doeesn't guarentee a G0 stepping, and while you say you aren't overclocking, you may feel a desire for it at some point. It isn't that hard. The G0 runs cooler, and uses less power, and doesn't cost anymore, so if you have the option to get one guaranteed then I would do so. ClubIT is one such place, and it is about the same price: http://www.clubit.com/product_detail.cfm?itemno=A1938452

750TX - Newegg, although it usually has very competitive prices for a lot of things, seems to always overcharge for power supplies in my opinion. You could save 20 bucks if you pick up the TX at ZipZoomFly instead for 159.99 - the 25 dollar rebate that is at both ZZF and Newegg: http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/ProductDetail.jsp?ProductCode=10007112

Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme + Scythe SFF21E: You can save a bit of money by picking these two items at JabTech, although the shipping may partially offset it. They have the Scythe SFF21E for 13.95 + the Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme for 56.95.

Also, the TJ09 you are going to purchase is a very nice case (I got one myself) but be noted that it only has 2 of the fans installed out of a max of 5 (it doesn't ship with the two top case fans, or the HDD fan). Also, some people don't like the output of the included silverstone fans. Consider picking up some relatively cheap fans at Jabtech while you are getting the heatsink and scythe there and you can lump the shipping a bit. Many people go for these Yate Loon's for 3.50 a pop: http://www.jab-tech.com/YATE-LOON-120mm-Case-Fan-D12SL-12-pr-3009.html

Maybe these prices aren't that significant given your overall build, so go with what you want really, just wanted to mention there are occasionally cheaper prices elsewhere.

EDIT: Some thermal compounds such as Arctic Silver 5 or Arctic MX-2 claim better temperatures than generic grease that usually comes with heatsinks, however almost all heatsinks should come with a tube of grease. So you don't really need to get it if you aren't going to overclock, as you will get some provided that is good enough for regular use, but if you do want to overclock and aren't happy with the temps with the regular paste, you can consider MX-2 for instance.

Awesome - thanks alot for the tips. I will most definitely look into buying those parts at the sites you mentioned. I didn't even know some of those existed. I have really only visited newegg.com and zipzoomfly.com.

 

[zenryou]

Awesome - thanks alot for the tips. I will most definitely look into buying those parts at the sites you mentioned. I didn't even know some of those existed. I have really only visited newegg.com and zipzoomfly.com.

I'm with guitarfly this thread has helped me a lot my super old abit ic7-g p4 3 ghz rig just barely works right any more lol. so I'm building basically exactly what is in this thread. hope i get a good 680i board though i've heard some tales.

i was going to go with an abit p35 pro but i went to their forum and someone said they were having hissing problems with their sound(abit ic7-g is infamous for that) so that alone made me decide to go with 680i. well, enough random stories about boards that are 4+ yrs old from me

 

[engiNURD]

Awesome - thanks alot for the tips. I will most definitely look into buying those parts at the sites you mentioned. I didn't even know some of those existed. I have really only visited newegg.com and zipzoomfly.com.

Yah, clubit.com is a new competitor for newegg and zzf. They seem pretty good with customer service, too. I'd definitely get the Q6600 from there.

I have seen references to "thermal grease" on these forums. Do I need that if I am going to use a HSF?

Both Thermalright heatsinks come with a tube of Thermal Interface Material (TIM), but I still have yet to use them. I picked up a tube of Arctic Cooling MX-2 from jab-tech while I got my Ultima90, and I'm very impressed. My temps were comparable with Arctic Silver 5 (the popular choice), and the MX-2 isn't conductive. I usually have a tube of thermal grease layin around in case I need to re-seat the HSF. Its only $6 bux anyhow. To clean off old grease, use 90%+ Isopropyl alcohol and a coffee filter. If the stuff is hard, use a credit card edge.

I'm with guitarfly this thread has helped me a lot my super old abit ic7-g p4 3 ghz rig just barely works right any more lol. so I'm building basically exactly what is in this thread. hope i get a good 680i board though i've heard some tales.

i was going to go with an abit p35 pro but i went to their forum and someone said they were having hissing problems with their sound(abit ic7-g is infamous for that) so that alone made me decide to go with 680i. well, enough random stories about boards that are 4+ yrs old from me

If you don't need SLI, go with a P35 board for more stability and better OC ability. Other good boards to check out aside from the Abit boards are the Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3L, DS3R, DS3P, DS4, and Asus P5K, P5K-E.

 

[zenryou]

with the ds4 can you use gskill ddr2 1000 on them? or just ddr2 800. i looked at the specs and it said 800 but 'I wanna' use 1000

 

[Dangman]

There's no real benefit to using faster RAM with a C2D. C2D systems benefit the most when you run the RAM at a 1:1 ratio. So:

Q6600:
Multi x FSB, RAM Speed = Clock Speed
9 x 266Mhz, DDR2 533 RAM = 2.4Ghz <== Stock Speeds
9 x 333Mhz, DDR2 667 RAM = 3.0Ghz <== Good OC
9 x 400Mhz, DDR2 800 RAM = 3.6Ghz <== Excellent OC, About max OC actually.

So basically, all you really need for a Q6600 is DDR2 533 RAM but since the price difference between DDR2 800 RAM and DDR2 533 RAM is so small. go with DDR2 800 RAM instead since it will give some head room for any future overclocking attempts.

But to answer your question, yes you can use DDR2 1000 but there's no real reason to.

 

[guitarfly]

Yah, clubit.com is a new competitor for newegg and zzf. They seem pretty good with customer service, too. I'd definitely get the Q6600 from there.



Both Thermalright heatsinks come with a tube of Thermal Interface Material (TIM), but I still have yet to use them. I picked up a tube of Arctic Cooling MX-2 from jab-tech while I got my Ultima90, and I'm very impressed. My temps were comparable with Arctic Silver 5 (the popular choice), and the MX-2 isn't conductive. I usually have a tube of thermal grease layin around in case I need to re-seat the HSF. Its only $6 bux anyhow. To clean off old grease, use 90%+ Isopropyl alcohol and a coffee filter. If the stuff is hard, use a credit card edge.



If you don't need SLI, go with a P35 board for more stability and better OC ability. Other good boards to check out aside from the Abit boards are the Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3L, DS3R, DS3P, DS4, and Asus P5K, P5K-E.

Yeah, I'll pick it up from clubit. What about OEM versus regular? It appears the OEM G0 is much cheaper? What's the difference? I notice it looks like the OEM has nearly no warrenty where the non-OEM has 5 years or something like that?

 

[engiNURD]

Yeah, I'll pick it up from clubit. What about OEM versus regular? It appears the OEM G0 is much cheaper? What's the difference? I notice it looks like the OEM has nearly no warrenty where the non-OEM has 5 years or something like that?

OEM has 90-day warranty while Retail Box has 3-year warranty. There's also the HSF, but you're replacing that anyhow. Go for the Retail Box... the extra cost isn't much for a much longer warranty.

 

[guitarfly]

OEM has 90-day warranty while Retail Box has 3-year warranty. There's also the HSF, but you're replacing that anyhow. Go for the Retail Box... the extra cost isn't much for a much longer warranty.

Got it - thanks. I'll make sure to get the retail.

Thanks again!