Xbox controller stops working at random unless I alt-tab

Cleamer

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I've got media PC running a very thin version of Windows 10 (basically all of the apps removed, privacy settings all turned off, etc...). I use it primarily for Kodi and emulators. I've also got an Xbox controller connected via BT which will randomly stop working unless I alt-tab to whatever program I'm running at the moment. The light on the controller doesn't blink, indicating its lost connection. It just straight up stops working unless I alt-tab.

I'm not using any special software for the BT connection or drivers for the controller, but having to grab the keyboard and alt-tab to make the controller work again is annoying. Does anyone know what causes this problem and how to resolve it? The controller is maybe 10 feet from the Wifi antenna of the machine. Having to alt-tab isn't specific to any one piece of software. It'll do it in any emulator or even in Kodi itself.

The machine is an i3 with the Gigabyte H110N motherboard and an Intel 7265 Wifi/BT card installed.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
You should try updating the firmware of your controller if you haven't done so already.

https://support.xbox.com/en-US/xbox.../how-to-update-xbox-one-controller-windows-10

I have found the bluetooth support for the xbox controller to be a little flaky. The firmware update helped, but I still run into issues with the controller being unresponsive/laggy sometimes. If I run the controller through USB, the issues go away.
 
Thanks. Yeah, I did that and it didn't help. It's weird. It's like the controller randomly gets stuck in the background and alt-tabbing is what brings it back to the foreground (for lack of better terminology). It works fine with USB, but that defeats the purpose of having the wireless controller.
 
turn off the usb power saving function in device manager and power profile
 
I had some serious disconnection issues.
A lot of them are resolved now after changing to different rechargeable batteries.
It was most odd that particular batteries when fully charged and at the correct voltage would make the connection flaky.
Trying different brand batteries works much better.
 
Thanks for the help, guys. I went ahead and disabled USB power saving and switched the rechargeable batteries with just standard ones (for now). It certainly has helped, but I'm still getting these random times where I need to alt-tab.

So, is the controller actually losing the connection when I have to alt-tab? The light doesn't blink to indicate it isn't paired and Windows still shows it connected in the Action Center. I guess I'm trying to understand what is actually happening here. There are also moments where it'll stop working in the middle of a button press, yet it'll remain "pressed" in Kodi or an emulator I'm using until I alt-tab.
 
make sure anything else in the house with BT has BT turned off. other than that idk...
 
I got fed up with the poor bluetooth support and just bought the wireless adapter. It works perfectly other than the driver not installing automatically (seriously Microsoft?). It seems like money I shouldn't have had to spend, but oh well.
 
The Bluetooth is know to be pretty shit on the new xbox one controller. That's why Microsoft is releasing an even NEWER controller with increased range.
 
That explains why the one that came with my Oculus Rift is such a fucking pain in the arse.
It will not work in Windows 7, it connects ok but just after a game is loaded it disconnects, every single time.

I tested it in Windows 10. It works only when, after booting the adapter is unplugged, replugged and then a connect attempt made.
Any delay in the process and it only connects for a few seconds when a connection attempt is made.
If it is allowed to time out and disconnect a complete reboot is needed and go through the same process to get it working again.

I use Windows 7 so dont use it at all.
Waste of space.

ps it wasnt even that good when using certain batteries.
I let a friend use it now, he found the same.
 
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This is why I just put-up with wired xbox controllers on my HTPC

Fuck wireless, it's never reliable enough for games. And I hate having to replace the batteries every few days.
 
Strange I have not seemed to have an issue with both the original Xbox one controller with the 3.5mm jack and the white Xbox One S controller when connected to the Microsoft wireless adapter on my HTPC. You know you might try hooking it up to a USB 2.0 vs an USB 3 port, as my Logitech unifying receiver was doing something similar with timeouts. Well, of course, the controllers eat batteries alive :)

Maybe for the bluetooth issues, which I have yet to try, what chipset are you using on the pc?
 
Z170.
I've tried USB 2 and 3

My XBox one controller is wireless only, they didnt supply a USB cable.
 
Z170.
I've tried USB 2 and 3

My XBox one controller is wireless only, they didnt supply a USB cable.

Any Micro USB data cable should work.

I have no problems in general with Wireless, but Bluetooth I abhor, I have had nothing but problems with bluetooth in general, be it on phones or PC.

I use the official XB1 controller wireless dongle, and I have never had disconnection.
 
Any Micro USB data cable should work.

I have no problems in general with Wireless, but Bluetooth I abhor, I have had nothing but problems with bluetooth in general, be it on phones or PC.

I use the official XB1 controller wireless dongle, and I have never had disconnection.
That is what I have, supplied with my Rift.
Its crap.

I dont have a cable that fits.
Dont really care any more, they make crap, it will be known such.
They have had plenty enough time to sort it, its obvious they arent going to.
Its still crap and they leave it this way.
So much for being a leader in software...
 
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That is what I have, supplied with my Rift.
Its crap.

I dont have a cable that fits.
Dont really care any more, they make crap, it will be known such.
They have had plenty enough time to sort it, its obvious they arent going to.
Its still crap and they leave it this way.
So much for being a leader in software...

Win 10 borked the XB1 controller in more ways than one (I think it's the anniversary updated that borked it).

I was pretty close to throwing it out too when the controller refused to connect for more than literal 1 second, updated the firmware with the Xbox accessory app and no issues now.

I never had issues under Win 7 either.

Granted, I use the wireless dongle on a USB hub, and that particular hub has switches on each port (so I can just switch on whichever controller I want to use).

I don't have Rift so I cannot confirm or deny whether the dongle is the same as mine, my dongle was sold on its own, and bought it very shortly after it was released.
 
For Bluetooth, it looks like there is a requirement for 4.0(not advertised), although again I have not tested, but maybe your guys' chipsets are not 4.0+ or maybe a chipset update driver / controller firmware update / battery voltage problem could be the root of the cause... My initial plan was either a steam box, or a raspberry pi3 for an emulation / game streamer... but I decided on a HTPC with win 10, and I had an older controller without bt, so I got the MS usb adapter and a newer controller and no issues for me ;). I wonder if those devices have the same bt type issues?
 
I got fed up with the poor bluetooth support and just bought the wireless adapter. It works perfectly other than the driver not installing automatically (seriously Microsoft?). It seems like money I shouldn't have had to spend, but oh well.

I'll give the wireless USB adapter a try. This is frustrating. I just want a simple, working wireless controller for my PC. I'm surprised how damn difficult this is.

I feel like the issue isn't the Xbox controller so much as my PC or Windows 10, but I could be wrong. I just don't understand how the alt-tabbing factors into it. Unless alt-tabbing out of and back into a program that's using BT as an input method somehow refreshes it.

I've got the old Logitech wireless gamepad, but it doesn't work with the unifying receiver and the one it does come with blows. I guess the controller needs a real clear line of sight for it to work and even the slightest interference causes it to lose input. However, it doesn't disconnect or require any alt-tabbing. It comes back pretty quick, but losing even a single button press totally screws you in a game.

Thanks for all the suggestions, guys.
 
I bought some 3 metre micro USB cables from Amazon.
3 cables for less than £10, braided, aluminium ended, good looking, quite amazed at the quality tbh.
The one I've fitted is a very solid fit and works a treat, always.
No more dongle trouble and no batteries needed.

Remains to be seen if it will last.
Its as good as I could have hoped for to start with.
 
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