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WTB: 150watt RMS amplifier

kakarotxiv

Gawd
Joined
Jun 21, 2004
Messages
651
it has to have a bass boost knob and a low pass filter. this amp will be used to drive my 10" sub.

must be 150w RMS.
 
Why does it have to be 150w RMS?
If this is the rating of your sub you only have to be close.
100-200 should work fine with little or no noticable diffrence in sound.
 
kakarotxiv said:
it's 300 max 150rms

so say a 200W rms won't kill it?

as long as the gain isnt turned all the way up...

bass knob? Life without preouts is rough eh? :D
 
Jozone said:
as long as the gain isnt turned all the way up...

bass knob? Life without preouts is rough eh? :D

I owna new mazda6. I'm gonna be feeling that pain for a long time. Intergraded dash untis :(
 
yeah although most stock radios on a scale of 1 to 10: suck.
 
the stock one in mine is pretty good good bass for a stock system. i just need a little extra bass
 
what kind of speaker is it? My competition kickers are rated at 300watts 150rms and I push 300rms 600 peak per speaker without a problem on them and the cones barely move.
 
kakarotxiv said:
150rms/300max sub

i need an amp not advice
I was asking the question because if you were running speakers like mine I had an amp. now I will just keep it rude ass.
 
I have a Rockford Fosgate 500.2 for sale. depending on what impedance the sub is, it could be used for 150-200 rms. rated at 500x1 at 4 ohm mono, but 125x2 @ 4 ohm stereo, 250x2 @ 2 ohm stereo. I'm selling it for $200 shipped.

my philosiphy when it comes to power is, its better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it. This could be wired for your sub right now, and if you ever wanted bigger, better, or just more, it would adapt to your needs. I've even taken my amp down to 2 ohm mono (roughly 1000 watts) so its very well built, and very stable. Its also quite small, because its a 2001 model, and not that newer crap that requires an amp class rating.
 
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