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Wolf's 4P G34 Build.

1x XSPC Acrylic Dual 5.25” Bay Reservoir (Alu Front)
4x Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black 1/2 Fitting
6x PrimoChill Nylon Hose Clamps for 1/2"OD Tubing Black
4x Koolance Fluorescent Green Liquid Coolant 700mL
8x Koolance NZL-V13-19KG 1/2 Silver Compression Nozzle
4x Koolance CPU-370 CPU Waterblock
1x Koolance PMP-450S 12/24V Water Pump
4x PrimoChill PrimoFlex Pro LRT Tubing UV Green 1/2ID 3/4OD
9x Scythe 120mm Gentle Typhoon 1850RPM Fan
=$865 + $72 shipping

1x PHOBYA XTREME NOVA 1080
= $149 + $36.91 shipping

I will also need the G34 bolts that koolance sell for $2 a pair but they want $70+ to ship them.
The rad is coming form a different store and I am going to check if they sell some of the other parts cheaper or have better alternatives etc.

Any input would be great.

Thanks
 
@Wolf

I might have a few spare G34 bolts lying around :) I think you need 8. Where in Oz are you?
 
Skip the koolance coolant, you just need distilled water
Skip the compression fittings and just get barbs (personal preference and cost savings)
Your clamps are for 1/2OD tubing and will be too small for the tubing you have picked (it is 3/4 OD)
If you go with the barbs, use 7/16 ID tubing for a tighter fit
If available I would go MCP-655 over PMP-450S

Otherwise looks good

Also, I'm assuming your costs are in Australian dollars? If that is US currency it is too high.
 
AUD is worth more than USD so it's doubley too high :(
I was going to say that I will just find some distilled water and a silver coil after reading your thread.
PCCG don't have the MCP-655 (which was my first preference) but I still have some searching to do.
I fixed the clamps.
I guess I should just get cheaper fittings as this is all costing a lot.

Thanks
 
WOLF_TEAM_LEADER said:
I guess I should just get cheaper fittings as this is all costing a lot.
Click to expand...

Compression fittings are really just bling, however I think they look kind of silly. By using 7/16 ID tubing I am able to avoid the need for clamps and I personally think this looks very clean.

XLoy7.jpg
 
I agree. 7/16 ID tubing and 1/2 fitting should be enough. Just test run it before you put them on the board. Tell you a scary story: One of the tubings got loose on my 4P G34 setup and the water spilled everywhere on the board. Well I was lucky that the whole thing still work after some intensive mopping and blow drying :) I think I should name my board "the wet one"

@Wolf
How lucky you are! I am in Perth too. Just PM me. Thanks.
 
1x XSPC Acrylic Dual 5.25” Bay Reservoir (Alu Front)
12x Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black 1/2 Fitting
14x PrimoChill Nylon Hose Clamps for 3/4"OD Tubing Black
4x Koolance CPU-370 CPU Waterblock
1x Koolance PMP-450S 12/24V Water Pump
9x Scythe 120mm Gentle Typhoon 1850RPM Fan
1x Bitspower Dual 30cm Cold Cathode Kit Green
1x BitFenix Spectre 230mm Black Tinted Green LED Fan
1x BitFenix Spectre 140mm Black Tinted Green LED Fan
=$783 + $68

1x PHOBYA XTREME NOVA 1080
1x PHOBYA NOVA 1080 FEET
2x MASTERKLEER 1/2ID - 3/4OD UV DARK GREEN (10ft)
=$235.00 + $42.60

1x HAF 932 Advanced
=$179

?x Distilled Water
2x Silver Coil (one for later)
=not too much

Total is about $1350!
I had a look at the MO-RA 3 vs NOVA and for the price I am happy with the nova.
 
Wonder how much shipping is from here to you... May be cheaper to buy American and have someone USship it too you
 
If I get blocks, tubing, res, pump, barbs and silver coils from FrozenCPU I will save about $100 after shipping.
 
So I was fiddling with the 932 and looking at some mounting options.
How hot would the back of the 4P SM board get?
Could I be lazy and shove some light foam crap behind the board where there aren't any stand-off's?
Then it would be a cable tie or two at the top to stop the board from bending outwards.
Not really looking to make my own holes in the case or anything.

Thanks
 
Mine is sitting on a slab of cardboard on a shelf in my rack.... so I figure you will be fine.

(I do have a 200mm fan blowing across the board)
 
Opt for hard, non-conductive surface (cardboard, MDF, wood, etc.)

Avoid foams/ESD bags...
 
I'll tear (the other tear, I think...) into a packing box and use that for support.
I have another question: Is it fine running the CPU WB's in series?
R-Type's guide has it that way however some people say that the last CPU will explode unless they are all in parallel which I would really hate to set up.
I don't mind higher temps on the later CPUs as long as they aren't going to catch on fire.

Thanks.
 
Serial should be fine with an MCP-655, flowrates will be high enough that the water temp should essentially equalize.
 
I can't get the 655 just the Koolance PMP-450S.
Will that pump do?
The internet says it's the same pump.

Also. Can I have the pump running when the rest of the system is shut down?
Or will the lack of heat develop icicles or something?
 
Last edited:
WOLF_TEAM_LEADER said:
Is it fine running the CPU WB's in series?
R-Type's guide has it that way
Click to expand...

R-Type's images in that thread aren't showing for me today. From what I remember he had 2 radiators in the loop. The water goes thru the 1st radiator then through 2 of the water blocks then through the second radiator before going through the last 2 water blocks. R-Type says if your pump is fast enough it won't matter if you set up a single loop. I'll take his word for that. What you'll find after running your system is some CPUs run hotter than others. After figuring out which run hot and which run cool you could shuffle them around so the cool water goes to the hot CPUs first and cool CPUs last. That might even out the temps. If what R-Type says is true it might not make a difference.
 
WOLF_TEAM_LEADER said:
Can I have the pump running when the rest of the system is shut down?
Or will the lack of heat develop icicles or something?
Click to expand...

The water in the system can never get colder than the ambient temp of your room. So there's no issue running the WC system with the computer shut down.
 
WOLF_TEAM_LEADER said:
I can't get the 655 just the Koolance PMP-450S.
Will that pump do?
The internet says it's the same pump.

Also. Can I have the pump running when the rest of the system is shut down?
Or will the lack of heat develop icicles or something?
Click to expand...
Should be fine if its still a rebadged Lang D5. Also the pump will plug into a Molex connector on your powersupply so aside from when you are priming the loop, it should turn on when the system does.

If this is your first watercooling build I suggest you read up on a couple how to's, there are some important steps like flushing the rads and priming the loop that I didn't detail in my component guide.
ChelseaOilman said:
R-Type's images in that thread aren't showing for me today. From what I remember he had 2 radiators in the loop. The water goes thru the 1st radiator then through 2 of the water blocks then through the second radiator before going through the last 2 water blocks. R-Type says if your pump is fast enough it won't matter if you set up a single loop. I'll take his word for that. What you'll find after running your system is some CPUs run hotter than others. After figuring out which run hot and which run cool you could shuffle them around so the cool water goes to the hot CPUs first and cool CPUs last. That might even out the temps. If what R-Type says is true it might not make a difference.
Click to expand...
The water temperature should equilize making the heat delta very small in serial. If you were concerned you could get two rads instead of 1 and put them in between every two cpu's.

The picture seems to be working again in the thread, just hit reload.
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1677662
 
It's going to be a full external kit (pump and res outside of case on the radiator cage) so it will probs have a separate PSU.
If the temps aren't equal enough then I can take an RX360 off my 2600k and shove it in the 932 if possible to help out.
It's not my first WCing build but I have never done anything with so many blocks before.

Thanks a lot.
 
Alrighty, everything apart from the rad and tubing (and water) is ordered.
If something doesn't add up then please tell me as I can still change it.

1 x BitFenix Spectre 230mm
Black Tinted Green LED
Fan $22.00
1 x BitFenix Spectre 140mm
Black Tinted Green LED
Fan $17.00
1 x Koolance PMP-450S
12/24V Water Pump $99.00
4 x Koolance CPU-370 CPU
Waterblock $85.00
14 x PrimoChill Nylon Hose
Clamps for 3/4"OD
Tubing Black $1.00
1 x Bitspower Dual 30cm
Cold Cathode Kit Green $19.00
9 x Scythe 120mm Gentle
Typhoon 1850RPM Fan $19.00
1 x EK-Multioption RES X2
- 250 Advanced $59.00
12 x Bitspower G1/4 Matte
Black 1/2 Fitting $3.50


I can't get 7/16" tubing so I need the ugly clamps for now.
Many Thanks!
 
I don't think I need the speed control.
This one is a bit more powerful then the speed control one so I thought it was the best.
 
According to the f@h wiki, code 8b is invoked by the OS and is either cuased by overclocking, overheating or memory problems.

Grab a copy of memtest 86 and get all your ram tested.
 
The 2 red/black PSUs are 900W.
One is being used to run the pump and 9 fans and the other is powering a bitcoin miner.
I'm getting halp on IRC again...
 
TPF - 6:32
WU - 6901
Status - Stock, Kraken, 1 CPU with only 3 DIMMs (rest have 4), poor memory timings.
That TCP thing shows less than 30 on all cores under load and high teens on idle.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the pictures. I get the impression you like green. :rolleyes:

When you get a chance, some daylight pictures would be nice.
 
Looking at these for VRM & Important-bits cooling:
1265441071.jpg

14 x 14 x 14mm.
Those little VRM things are scattered all over the place so some might not get covered.
CPU 2 and CPU 4 have 2 neat rows on the edge of the board and 14mm will just cover the width of the group while needing 3 or so heat sinks to make up the length for each area.
I am hoping that if I can cool the board a bit better I will reach a higher overclocking potential seeming as my CPU cooling is overly adequate.

@Linden, it's the first time I have used green and it's nice to see something other than red or blue splashed against the walls. It matches the mobo and I think it turned out pretty well.

Thanks
 
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