Why delid then re-lid?

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ErkkiP

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May 18, 2014
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There's a lot of temperature benefits to be had in swapping better heat goop in Intel's processors, but why does almost everyone then proceed to re-attach the IHS back? If you're going to the trouble of delidding, why not carefully attach the heatsink / waterblock directly onto the core? Wouldn't the temperature benefits be even better?
 
Yes, the temperatures are even better! I prefer bare die myself and yes everyone should be using the term relid rather than delid. It's just a bit more challenging to mount and requires balancing any heatsinks or waterblocks because uneven pressure is what leads to cracks. This risk is too much for most people. Pragmatically, the much greater benefit is from removing the crud that Intel uses and just slapping the noobshield back on and that is why most don't see the risk as being worth the additional benefit. I can't stand artificial impedance to heat dissipation so I have been removing them since Tualatin and have not cracked a single core (even my Q6600 G0 which required the use of a blow torch to remove).
 
Wouldn't it be relatively simple to 3D print a shim so that crushing the core is almost impossible?
 
80% of the improvement at 20% of the risk.
Unless a solutions is not pareto optima, anyone should be able to understand people simply have different preferences.
 
Cheers for the article, but why didn't he just buy a 7€ shim instead of fiddling about with tape while complaining about a difficult mate?

3D models for delidding tools exist, but no shims?
 
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ErkkiP said:
Cheers for the article, but why didn't he just buy a 7€ shim instead of fiddling about with tape while complaining about a difficult mate?
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He didnt intend on keeping it that way and was able to get the desired result without.
He points out the perils so we understand them.
You have to use paypal or a bank transfer to buy the shim btw.
Its a lot more than 7 euros.

3D models for delidding tools exist, but no shims?
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The accuracy needed is tiny and it must not misshape when hot.
 
Nenu said:
Its a lot more than 7 euros.
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International shipping = 5€ & VAT excluded, so a grand total of about 10 bucks. Using Paypal is hard? Do you Trumpsters still insist on using cheques or are squirrel skins still preferred because that's the founding fathers traded in.

Nenu said:
The accuracy needed is tiny and it must not misshape when hot.
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ABS plastic is printed at ~250°C, so a watercooled core maxing out at ~65°C won't deform. Modern hobby-level 3D-printers print with an accuracy of 20 microns.
 
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ErkkiP said:
International shipping = 5€ & VAT excluded, so a grand total of $10.20. Using Paypal is hard? Do you Trumpsters still insist on using cheques or are squirrel skins still preferred because that's the founding fathers traded in.
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Including tax its almost double the price you stated.
I'm a what?

ABS plastic is printed at ~250°C, so a watercooled naked die maxing out at ~65°C won't deform. Modern hobby-level 3D-printers print with an accuracy of 20 microns.
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It will deform under pressure. This is why the shim is made of metal.
The accuracy they use on the shim is 10u. Most 3D printers cant do this.
 
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