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Which pump to buy?

themanwithnoname

themanwithnoname

Gawd
Joined
Jun 30, 2004
Messages
665
Just wondering which pump i should get. I currently have a via aqua 1300, but I broke the door to the impeller so I either I buy some super glue or plumbers goop and glue back together and never open it again, or I buy a new pump.

Theres too many to pick from, WHICH DO I GET?!
Eheim 1048,1250
D4,D5
Aquaxtreme 50z

I'm basically looking for the cheapest, semiquiet, and highest quality one of the group. Note that i'll only b cooling the cpu.
 
if i had to go AC powered.....eheim ftw.
DC powered...50Z ftw.

imo, of course.
 
hmm i'm thinking that AC wouldn't really matter that much, i mean buncha wires hanging outta the back anyhow. one more wouldn't matter too much. Although it'd b on 24/7, i hear these last forever like hondas. I notice the DC's are a bit more expensive. BAH which way do i go?
 
yeah and you are already running the via aqua 1300 so you've got the AC usage already.

ive always had the question though, myself, of which eheim pump is good enough (and which is the best) to push water through a BIX3, Apogee, MCW60 or Maze4 GPU and a res.
Would the 1046 be enough? 1048? 1250?

I don't mean to threadjack, hell, maybe you even have the same questions.
 
It wouldn't really matter for the blocks that you have. Those blocks are true low flow blocks with very little flow resistance, unlike some blocks which are marketed for low flow. The only thing which might benefit the most from increased flow is the radiator.
 
Erasmus354 said:
....... The only thing which might benefit the most from increased flow is the radiator.
Click to expand...

ummm, riiight.......can you link to something to prove this?

it would seem that all other things being equal, a lower flow would allow more time for more heat to transfer to the air. But that is just supposition on my part. I'd like to know how you came to the conclusion of your statement.
 
I've cracked the housing where the top fitting screws into every via aqua pump I've had (a 1300 and a 2600(?)). I'm not sure if this is where your's broke, but a little plastic epoxy fixed them both right up.
 
topcat989 said:
ummm, riiight.......can you link to something to prove this?

it would seem that all other things being equal, a lower flow would allow more time for more heat to transfer to the air. But that is just supposition on my part. I'd like to know how you came to the conclusion of your statement.
Click to expand...

Look at any radiator review from overclockers.com, or any of BillA's tests. The amount of heat dissipated increases as flow increases. You are thinking about it all wrong. Just because the water is flowing quicker doesn't mean it spends less time in the radiator. It might take less time to make it through the radiator, but it also gets back around to the radiator quicker. The faster flow helps to decrease the boundary layer which increases heat transfer to the copper pipes and subsequently to the fins and the air. Your supposition is wrong.
 
Erasmus354 said:
Look at any radiator review from overclockers.com, or any of BillA's tests. The amount of heat dissipated increases as flow increases. You are thinking about it all wrong. Just because the water is flowing quicker doesn't mean it spends less time in the radiator. It might take less time to make it through the radiator, but it also gets back around to the radiator quicker. The faster flow helps to decrease the boundary layer which increases heat transfer to the copper pipes and subsequently to the fins and the air. Your supposition is wrong.
Click to expand...

Similar principle encountered with a hot bath/spring. If you move slower, it is easier to enter because of the barrier your body creates by cooling the water immediately around you. Entering quickly lessens the boundary layer and more heat transfers into your body. Once fully emerged and acclimated to the higher temperature, you can still feel the difference by moving your arm around in the hot water - it feels hotter when you're moving than when you're stationary (or moving slowly). There is more heat exchange; the delta between your body temp and the temp of the water lowers. Once stationary, the barrier and delta temp begin to increase as your circulatory system transfers heat from your submerged body parts to your head (and exposed shoulders or hands) and the heat is then transferred to the air.

As far as pumps go, I recommend the D5 pump or the Eheim 1046 (Aquastream), both of which I use personally. The Eheim appears a bit more delicate, as the plastic threads on the intake can crack and leak (my only leak). From what I've seen, that's not all too common, but still a bit discouraging as it wasn't an issue of over-tightening rather than a manufacturer defect (hairline crack, nearly invisible except when the intake fitting is completely screwed in, then only a few hundredths of an inch). Both pumps are about the same audibly, which is to say considerably quieter than my DVD burner or hard drives (about the same noise as my Papst fans - somewhere in the vicinity of 21dB).
 
Earp said:
I've cracked the housing where the top fitting screws into every via aqua pump I've had (a 1300 and a 2600(?)). I'm not sure if this is where your's broke, but a little plastic epoxy fixed them both right up.
Click to expand...

nah i cracked the door, u know the thing that twists off. i broke those two little plastic things that keep it from popping off. The door to the inlet basically.

i just looked at the price of the eheim 1046 aquastream price. ITS SO XPENSIVE :eek:

O BTW I'll b looking for something that costs around $30-$50 shipped.
So i guess that eliminates anything thats new AHAHHA
 
Good pumps cost money.

The only pumps I'd recommend in that price range is the Eheim 1046 (~$42). Good custom watercooling comes with a price tag, and I don't advise anyone to skimp out, especially when dealing with components that cost less than $100. Wait a little while and build up a fund for the D5/MCP655 or the AquaExtreme 50Z.

Or get yourself a credit card and an Iwaki RD30.
 
For about $25 with tubing adaptors you can get a Rainbow Lifeguard Quiet One 1200. I've had one running 24/7 for over a year straight and it's a good pump. One thing I like about it is the design which allows it to shed heat into the air rather than the water and the fact that the impeller is a locked design so it won't rattle is a plus.

I took an old mouse pad and glued it together into a double layer. I then cut it to fit the bottom of the pump and glued a layer of velcro to the pad and put velcro in the case for the pump to mount to. That system really helped to uncouple the vibrations from the pump to the case.

It's not a bad pump and has a better flow curve than the Eheim 1250 when under load, at 4ft heat the 1200 flows nearly 2 GPM which is really good for an A/C pump.
 
domoMKIV said:
i just bought a 50Z :D
Click to expand...
From CoolTechnica? I'm shocked they had it in stock at all - I find that they generally have hose clamps and tubing in stock and little else (and occasionally their own boring "This looks like a Storm!" blocks).

On the subject, I'm really growing tired of how retailers constantly rename these pumps. Why do Swiftech, DangerDen and D-Tek call the Laing EcoCirc D5 the MCP655, DangerDen D5, and DTC-D5 respectively? Why can they not all call it the Laing EcoCirc D5? This is probably something that doesn't bother most of you, but it certainly bothers me. Anyway, enough griping.
 
phide said:
On the subject, I'm really growing tired of how retailers constantly rename these pumps. Why do Swiftech, DangerDen and D-Tek call the Laing EcoCirc D5 the MCP655, DangerDen D5, and DTC-D5 respectively? Why can they not all call it the Laing EcoCirc D5? This is probably something that doesn't bother most of you, but it certainly bothers me. Anyway, enough griping.
Click to expand...

The same reason why car manufacturers dont broadcast that they dont make the engine they use (in some cases). Or LCD manufacturers dont yell to the hills that they didn't really make anything in the LCD, they just assembled parts. Or maybe how McDonalds and Burger King dont call them hamburgers but a Whopper and Big Mac. It is all about branding and making something your own.
 
I'd probably go with the 50Z or the D5, whichever you can find in good condition in the For Sale forum. I bought all of my stuff except for the tubing used, and couldn't be happier. Wellll, if my 165 wasn't a 0551, then I'd be happier. But I'm perfectly happy with my watercooling loop.

Oh, I got my 50z for $50 shipped in the for sale.
 
Erasmus354 said:
It is all about branding and making something your own.
Click to expand...
I understand the concept, but don't understand why these retailers think that it really has an impact. McDonalds does it, but McDonalds also offers different products (a Big Mac is not a Whopper), and they really move volume. Ditto for LCD and auto manufacturers. These companies create an association. These retailers are just leading to confusion, and their naming conventions are a waste of time, energy and expense.

If I had an outlet that sold the Laing EcoCirc, do you think it would be beneficial to call it the SuperGalaxy Pentos Delta LD-7?
 
Another favorite over at XS is the Laing DDC-Pro/Ultra. Basically a normal DDC that has been modded with a plexi-top and a top inlet. Fully as powerful (Pro) and possibly more powerful (Ultra) for less noise and the same (Ultra) or less (Pro) heatdump. I personally don't know. You can take a look over there if you want <shrugs> (Pro and Ultra made by Alphacool, so pretty much only for people in Europe. For those in the states and such, you have to buy a normal DDC and mod it yourself.)
 
A better example would probably be "sister" cars. IE how a Dodge Caravan and a Plymouth Voyager were EXACTLY the same car, just called different things and maybe offered in different colors. Dodge and Plymouth are both under the same company as well...so why the need to offer two identical cars under two different companies with two different names?
 
Marketing. Would you rather buy a Minivan, or a "Family recreational automobile?" Not to mention brand appeal. Would you rather buy a Sony TV, or a name brand you've never heard of? What if you know that they are exactly the same thing?
 
50Z-DC12 gets my vote as that's what I'm currently using in my rig...

My roommate has a D5 and he had to resistor it to get it as quiet as mine, but yet, mine still moves more water...
 
The AquaXtreme 50z is a great pump. It isn't silent, but it can barely be heard over the rest of a system's components, imho. It moves a lot of water as well, and in some situations, it moves more water than a D5 (I remember seeing a graph of this somewhere, but I forget where so I don't have evidence to back it up, but oh well).
 
Ended up going w/ a eheim 1250 pump :D I got it for $3 bucks AHAHHAHAHAA

Now the only thing i need is some MASTERKLEER 1/2'' tubing and some hose clamps (which i'm not totally sure which to buy still) I'd like to get them from mcmaster carr as well. Any idea which will b best for my 1/2'' loop setup?
 
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