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Top Nurse said:So I want to cool these down even better and since I am already H20 cooling whats another cooler block?![]()
nweibley said:Unnecessary excess heat and restriction... if it aint broke, don't fix it!
I agree when there is some tangible gain. He isnt going to see any improvement from doing this, besides ambient case temps which really dont matter since he has water and airflow anyways. This is a lost cause IMHO.plywood99 said:I disagree. If we didn't "fix" things, there would be no need for water cooling, overclocking and etc. Just because it isn't broken doesn't mean it can't be improved. Besides, I enjoy looking at all the cool mods people do to their systems.
Top Nurse said:BTW, the A7N8X-Dlx board didn't have any heatsinks on the mosfets. Now the A8N-SLI comes with a big old heatsink on them. I'm pretty sure they didn't do it for looks...
Not that I qualify as super knowledgeable...v3rt1g0 said:I've never seen any of the super knowledgeable guys anywhere say that mosfet heatsinks are ever truly needed.
HeThatKnows said:Not that I qualify as super knowledgeable...
A cool MOSFET has a lower resistance than a hot one (lower Rds-on, to be exact), so a cool one will waste less power and create less heat. Additionally, a cool one will switch from on to off faster; again decreasing waste power/heat and improving output voltage stability.
Needed? Hell no. Can it get your overclock another couple MHz? Sometimes, yes. Will water-cooled MOSFETs get you attention at a LAN and increase the size of your e-penis? Oh Yeah!!!
Can you tell that I've done mine?It halved the amount of fluctuation on Vcore, from a 0.06V difference between MBM's reported high and low, to a better 0.03 V variation. Didn't increase my overclock, but it was stable at a lower voltage.
They wouldn't be much use if they didn't turn on and off, in a classical sense or otherwise. Are you looking at MOSFETs that have the middle leg snipped? That's the drain, which is also connected to the large mounting tab.mwarps said:They will switch on faster, yes, but these MOSFETs do not ever turn on of off, at least not in the classical sense. Their gates, at least on the boards I can look at currently, are cut..
They did it because it's a popular enthusiast mod. Nobody but the most hardcore gamers are going to be buying this board, so it makes the board more appealing to them. I've never seen any of the super knowledgeable guys anywhere say that mosfet heatsinks are ever truly needed. Cooling dorks like us just like to keep stuff cooler than the norm.
HeThatKnows said:They wouldn't be much use if they didn't turn on and off, in a classical sense or otherwise. Are you looking at MOSFETs that have the middle leg snipped? That's the drain, which is also connected to the large mounting tab.
Looking at a couple datasheets that I had handy, it looks like Rds-on increases anywhere from 3 to 10 percent with a 25°C warming. Not a huge difference, but it counts (especially with the lower MOSFETs).
Mmm, intrinsic carrier concentration...![]()
why do you have your AGP set at 1.7v?
Those MOSFETs are switching on and off, at around 100 kHz. The "voltage regulator" on a mother board is full blown switch-mode supply, a DC-DC buck converter. Pulses of voltage/current fed via the upper MOSFETs into inductors for smoothing/storage, with free-wheel current handled by the lower MOSFETs.mwarps said:As far as on and off goes, these MOSFETs, as I said, are always on. All they do is regulate current. The on-off speed you were referring to is only relevant when the MOSFETs have to switch.
upping the voltage to the video card doesn't do anything as far as pumping voltage... the voltage regulation is all handled on the video card. The ONLY reason that it would "run better" is because the voltage to the chipset is generally closely related to vAGP.Top Nurse said:As opposed to what? It ran better when I started OC the video card. I also increased the voltage going to the mb chipset as well.
Top Nurse said:Okay dudes put your thinking caps on...
I got a tool and die maker friend who is willing to make me a water block for free
So what is the best material? Copper, aluminum, ?
Also should I consider gold plating if I go with copper?
I thought about perhaps a modified "S" channel utilizing a roughing endmill to roughen up the channel. Will use a 1/4" hose barb.
Should I use plexiglass as a cover or is there a better material?