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What all do I need?

S

Sunin

[H]ard|DCer of the Month - August 2008
Joined
Dec 27, 2005
Messages
3,421
I have two computers in close proximity and they will be:

1. Core Duo 65nm & 8800GTX
2. Yorkfield 45nm & 9800GTX or 8800GTX

I would like to be able to cool both vid cards, both processors and the N/S bridges on each. Would that be doable in a single loop?

Figured the radiator would have to be something like this:
http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=200&cat=85&page=1

Water Pump (might consider the pump above it)
https://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=38&cat=26&page=1

2 CPUs
https://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=291&cat=92&page=1

2 GPUs
https://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=257&cat=3&page=1

3 Fans:
https://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=283&cat=0&page=1

I figured 1/2inch tubing also.

If that is not doable lets focus on the 2nd system there. What all do I need:

I mean I know I need a block for each CPU/GPU/Bridge, but I see all sorts of add ons. Fill ports, resevoirs, fitings, varying types of fluid, etc. A little help with that would be wonderful.

I want the setup to be quiet. I was thinking 3 Yate Loons Medium or low. 28db vs 33, I mean 5db really going to be that noticeable?

Any suggestions.

Oh one reason i am thinking non-air is the fans are noisy and its getting increasingly difficult to get the dust off the fins. I figured I could mount the radiator and fans on top of my Antec Case and make it detachable so that I could service the loop without tearing apart the entire setup. IE Give the radator a good shot of compressed air and if need be take it to the sink and scrub the bastard!

Thanks for all your input! I'm hoping to buy and install this setup on my 65nm duo & GTX now and have enough room to add my future 45nm quad core & 9800GTX into the loop at that time.
 
are you sure you want to try cooling two rigs with one loop. i'm not saying it wouldn't work, because you've got 4 blocks on the loop with 12 id tubing and a tri fan radiator, but draining that thing is going to be a real sob.
 
I agree with Renny. while you would be consolidating the radiator and pump, the trade-offs in extra heat, and more complex maintenance would negate any benefit. It's not a bad idea, just probably not as efficient as you would want.
If you were to give this a go I would recomment nothing less than a PA120.3. Maybe even 2. Or you could do 2 MCR-320's if you want your fans turned down more.
Also, I don't think the pump you have listed would satisfy this type of setup. The head pressure is simply too low. a D5 or Laing DDC with Petra's top (or 2) would be much better suited for the flow you will require.

You will be moving a lot of heat here. If you want any room to OC you will need adequate planning to pull this off. I am looking forward to this project :) Good luck!

Grey
 
Deton said:
You need at least this kind of rad http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=200&products_id=21622 setup instead of 120.3 ....
Click to expand...

Bad idea. For roughly the same cost, 3 MCR-320's would add less restriction and better cooling. 2 would probably equal or best the cooling of that Magicool; and that's just being budget/noise-level conscious. 2 PA120.3's would murder that rad and send flowers to the funeral. Here is a decent discussion about that radiator on Xtreme. aside from the picture on the initial post, the first page is useless. check page 2 and 3.

Grey
 
It would be a nightmare keeping up with two rigs on a single loop lol.. omg the horror ...
 
Ok so the dual rig one loop idea is history!

Now what to get for a single loop 1 vid card, 1 cpu, 1 north bridge, 1 south bridge?

Most likely will be doing this on a 780i mobo.

I want damn near silent :) with a lot of OC'ability
 
You can cool a single: cpu, gpu, nb all in one loop.

You don't need to w/c a southbridge as it will not produce nor affect your oc too much. If you feel inclined to upgrading it to a higher quality copper then sure. As far as silence.. you can have a passive cooler on a SB and it will not skip a beat.

Your rad setup will depend on how big your case will be. If it can fit a 3 rad setup then it will require less tubing. If you want to cool all three (cpu,nb,gpu) I would HIGHLY suggest nothing less than a 3 fan rad or a single with a double or two doubles. Those GTX's alone will bring your ambient to about 30c with a high quality rad.

Use the least amount of tubing without kinking. Never mix metals (aluminum and copper).



Danger Den is a good choice of parts. I have purchased many parts from them and it is good quality stuff. I would highly suggest you get a stronger pump though. May I suggest the D5 Variable.


Here is your main shopping list for a 3 block setup:

CPU Block
GPU Block
NB Block
Radiator(s)
Pump
Tubing
Fillport OR reservoir (you don't need both, it's just preference).


Coolant is unnecessary for the performance of the loop. Unless you're mixing metals (allu/copper) don't worry about shelling out money for expensive additives. If you want aesthetics go for dyes and uv reactive coolant but note that anything you put in, will lower the performance level. Pure distilled is the best, cheapest, and safest way to run a loop.

A fillport will have a tube hanging from the top of your case while a reservoir can fit in your 5 1/2 bay or attached somewhere lower down on your case (ie the microres by swiftech).

This is a shitton of info so I'll cut it short for now. I'd say learn about the individual parts first before buying everything. That way you don't end up with too much useless stuff...
 
The problem wiht the rads he has picked is that theyneed higher CFM fans to get good performance out of them which = more noise. I'd suggest grabing a Swiftech MCR320 rad instead. There cheap and work well with low/medium speed fans so you can go silent.
 
Ragenrok said:
The problem wiht the rads he has picked is that theyneed higher CFM fans to get good performance out of them which = more noise. I'd suggest grabing a Swiftech MCR320 rad instead. There cheap and work well with low/medium speed fans so you can go silent.
Click to expand...

Yup!

As Ragenrok stated, there are two types of radiators. To put it in simple terms, one is thin and one is thick. The thicker ones allow you to use any fan high or low output and still get good temperatures. The thinner radiators, are great for fitting but may require much higher output fans. Hence louder.

However some of the louder 120s will not come anywhere near the sound of a high RPM 80 or 90 mm lol.. Hairdryer noise ftl
 
Ok I'll put something together tonight.

How about fittings? I would not like the hoses to be just push on type. I want some sort of clamp or fiting.

I've worked on modifying cars with aftermarket cooling so I'm somewhat familiar with the concept, just need some help.

Thanks again for all your guys help!
 
Radiator
http://www.petrastechshop.com/swmcqposerab1.html

Pump:
http://www.petrastechshop.com/swmcin12pu.html

Fans x3:
http://www.petrastechshop.com/12scsysstcaf1.html

40cfm at 10db? Is this too good to be true? Or would I be better off with:

http://www.petrastechshop.com/12yalod1cafa.html

Resevoir:
http://www.petrastechshop.com/swmchire.html

Tubing:
http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=172

How many feet is that? Enough for my loop plus some?

CPU Block:
http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=291&cat=92&page=1

GPU Block:
http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=257&cat=3&page=1

NB Block:
http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=292&cat=46&page=1

will that work on 780i boards?

Definitely open for suggestions on the water blocks. I have no experience with this!

I will also get a liberal amount of AS5.

I can easily pick up distilled water at the local grocery store. So no antifungal or anything eh?

Thanks again everyone! This should be an interesting addon to my current build.
 
One thing is certain... with what you want to cool you are looking for at least a 3x120 rad. Hopefully you can find a place to put this, as using multiple rads will effect flow unnecessarily.
You haven't mentioned a budget. If its not a large concern, I would encourage a PA120.3. Even with fans at 7v, you are at a cooling level comparable to other rads at full speed. The next down from there would be the MCR320-QP. Some would argue Black Ice, but I'm not sold personally.

Jab-tech had everything I needed, including the EK blocks that I recommend (highly!). If you want to combine shipping you might try there.

As far as barbs go. They should come with the blocks you order and if you have the option, get 1/2" high flow's. This coupled with 7/16" ID tubing (tygon 3603 from sidewindercomputers) creates a very tight seal. You should still use hose clamps, but some people haven't with this combo.

Arguably the best CPU block is the D-tek FuZion. This block has an optional nozzle-kit available as well.

Hope this helps. Keep us posted!

Grey
 
We must have been typing at the same time :) I just saw your list. Here is what I would do. Like I mentioned in my last post Jab-Tech would probably be your best option. I priced your list out at $455.79 for everything you linked. I put together a list all from JT (except the tubing from Sidwinder) at $363.09... shipping would probably be easier from one place too.

If you want it, here are my recommendations

CPU: D-tek FuZion with Nozzle kit = $66.94 combined
GPU: EK-FC8800 GTX = $90.00 <---currently OOS :(
NB: EK-NB EVGA 680i = 39.99 <--- currently OOS ------OR Swiftech MCW30 = $24.95
Pump: Swiftech MCP655&#8482; 12 VDC Pump = $79.95
Rad: Swiftech MCR320-QP-K = $44.95
Res: Swiftech MCRES-Micro = $18.95
Fans: YATE LOON 120mm = $5.95x3 = $17.85
Tube: Tygon R3603 7/16in. ID 5/8in. OD x10ft = $19.50

Total = $363.09

In my opinion, the only place you could improve on in this build is to exchange the radiator with the Thermochill PA120.3, but at $90 less the MCR320 is more than adequate.

The only other thing I would recommend is to use Arctic Cooling MX-2 Thermal Compound instead of AS5. Its better in every category and is non-conductive to boot.

I think thats about it. I swear I am in no way affiliated with Jab-Tech. They just have great prices and were extremely professional when I dealt with them a month ago while putting together my kit. :cool:

Grey
 
Budget under $500, so no real budget really. Just want performance, and quiet!
 
I assume the 120.3 will give me some overhead room to allow for say another GTX if I ever decide to do SLI again?

As far as fans you think the medium flow would be sufficient? Can I go with the lower flow and still be ok or do you think that might not be enough?

Also are there any blocks that work on the new 780i North bridge? having looked on several sites I don't see anything.

Probably going to pull the trigger on this today.
 
Isn't there some water cooled ram out there too?

That could be interesting as those suckers get damn hot!
 
You don't get better overhead for your setup than the 120.3. It's the least flow restrictive, and highest heat displacement rad available today. The only way you get better is by adding another PA series rad :)

From what I understand, Yate Loons are some of the best fans as they can be undervolted nicely for a quieter setup. I have no first hand experience as I just used some new 120mm fans that were given to me. You may want to look into a fan controller for your case. having access to turning the fans up and down as needed is a nice feature.

I haven't seen any blocks specific to the 780i yet either. should be soon.

RAM cooling is generally an unnecessary flow killer. They will stay in tolerable ranges on their own.
 
Thanks I think I'm going to place my order shortly! This will be a fun project, then maybe I can OC my GTX and pump out a bit more performance from my E6600.
 
Pulled the trigger on the following

CPU: D-tek FuZion with Nozzle kit = $66.94 combined
Pump: Swiftech MCP655&#8482; 12 VDC Pump = $79.95
Res: Swiftech MCRES-Micro = $18.95
Fans: YATE LOON 120mm = $5.95x4 = $24
Tube: Tygon R3603 7/16in. ID 5/8in. OD x10ft = $19.50
Arctic Cooling MX-2 Thermal Compound = $6
Sunbeam 5-1/4" Rheobus Kit - BLACK =$20
120mm Anti-Vibration Fan Gasket - Black $12
4 sets of antivibration mounts for the fans
Thermochill PA120.3 (Directly from Thermochill) 69.50 GBP = 136.552 USD (that is cheaper with shipping then the other places! lol
GPU: EK-FC8800 GTX = $109.99 (Petra's)
NB: EK-NB EVGA 680i = 39.99 (Petra's) total 160 to petra.

Total Cost: $550

And I should have a very nice water cooling setup. Going to hunt around for the last three parts at other vendors in the mean time.

Jab-tech: 228.85
ThermoChill: 136.56
Petra's: 160
Sidewinder's: 25
 
So I was expecting my loop to go this way

=> Resevoir => Pump => CPU => NB => GTX => Radiator => Resevoir

Would it be better to go NB then CPU?

Does the length of tubing reduce flow? IE keep them as short as possible without making them tight with kinks?

I was also thinking of heading to the hardware store this weekend to get some rubber gromits for the two holes ID of the gromits have to be about 5/8 to 3/4inch that will be coming out the top of my Antec Case.

I also wanted to find some rubber bushing/washers that I could place between the case and the mounting hardware to allow for vibration absorption.

Also add the same rubber bushings to the water pump. To absorb the vibes, which can resonate

Last question is how do the fans mount to the radiator. To they have long pass through screws? Some sort of cage?

Ok I lied, what temps do you think with this setup I should see at idle and load? I was thinking 35c and 45c would be good targets!

LOL one more, mount the radiator fans in a push or pull configuration? Cars are pull so I was thinking of having the 3 fans pull air up out of the radiator.

thanks again!
 
no, I find the CPU is the most heat sensitive part you will be cooling so you will want it first in the loop.
 
Sunin said:
So I was expecting my loop to go this way

=> Resevoir => Pump => CPU => NB => GTX => Radiator => Resevoir

Would it be better to go NB then CPU?
Click to expand...

Keep in mind that the pump will add a bit of heat to the loop also. Because of this, most people shoot for the radiator after the pump. This way, the coolest water hits your first component every time. If you are mounting the radiator on the top of your case, this also has the benefit of allowing gravity to help with some of the work (assuming your pump is at the bottom of your case), because after the radiator, its all down hill back to the pump again.
in this theory, the most efficient loop would go:

=> Res => Pump => Rad => CPU => NB => GTX => Res

Does the length of tubing reduce flow? IE keep them as short as possible without making them tight with kinks?
Click to expand...

You should certainly aim for as short a run as you can get away with without kinking.


Last question is how do the fans mount to the radiator. To they have long pass through screws? Some sort of cage?
Click to expand...

The Radiator should come with long screws to mount your fans. They are not pass through, so if you use thinner fans, you may need to cut them a bit shorter. See the link in my sig.... I have some pictures there of how the MCR360 mounts to fans. The PA120.3 is similar.

Ok I lied, what temps do you think with this setup I should see at idle and load? I was thinking 35c and 45c would be good targets!
Click to expand...

This all depends on how hard you push your voltages and speeds. Keep in mind that Intel has these chips rated upwards of 80*C ... so with this setup, heat won't necessarily be your bottleneck... the physical limitations of your chips will :cool:

LOL one more, mount the radiator fans in a push or pull configuration? Cars are pull so I was thinking of having the 3 fans pull air up out of the radiator.

thanks again!
Click to expand...

This is highly debated, but the general consensus is that it doesn't make a large enough difference to worry about. One other thing you might consider is a fan shroud for your rad. this eliminates the 'dead-spot' on your fan's center by elevating the fans away from the rad a bit.

Hope this help, and please keep the updates coming!

Grey
 
I didn't see any shrouds for the Thermochill. Maybe I just missed em. Will go back and look.

I'll work my loop as you suggested!
 
Picked up the shroud and visted my local Home Depot.

Picked up 20 compression clamps, 60 Rubber washers, about 50 vibration isolation rings, 20 ruber o rings and a couple of gromits for the metal case.

I should have a Fedex package today with about 2/3 of the materials. I can at least being putting it together on my test bench and get it tested and leak proofed prior to installation in the case!
 
Sunin said:
Picked up the shroud and visted my local Home Depot.

Picked up 20 compression clamps, 60 Rubber washers, about 50 vibration isolation rings, 20 ruber o rings and a couple of gromits for the metal case.

I should have a Fedex package today with about 2/3 of the materials. I can at least being putting it together on my test bench and get it tested and leak proofed prior to installation in the case!
Click to expand...

Excellent! be sure to charge your camera batteries;)
 
I assume I know the answer to this, but...

I am thinking of water cooling my 2nd GTX and adding that to the loop. Will I have enough head room?

Also, has anyone used the Iwaki MD30Z. Its a 120v AC pump that should increase my flow rate by nearly a 1 gpm.

I'm thinking that is not too shabby or is 1.5gpm which is what the current DC5 will do plenty of head room?


thanks again for all your feedback!

Ok read up on the MD 30Z, etc and they add too much heat into the system, even though the flow is good you don't need that high of flow. A lower 1 to 1.5 gpm flow loop is able to cool a cpu nearly as well as 1.5-2.5 gpm loop.

Also a bit more research netted me this info:

Say Ambient is 75c approx 23c
A good loop should be able to keep your system at 22c above ambient.

So thus max 45c under full load. I hope that is achievable I look forward to pushing this new setup!
 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835202003

Add this memory fan to my build. I am going to take it appart spray it piano black and reassemble. I think the silver just looks aweful.

Then it will work well with my current setup

Picture below:

http://www.600hpmiata.com/pics/Pre%20Water%20Setup.jpg

Bah sorry about the pic didn't realize it required registeration. Moved to my website instead....

The one on the right is Rig1 in my sig and will be getting the WC treatment.

I will run some benchmarks, get some temps, etc this weekend. Kind of a pre WC base line and then compare after!

Parts are starting to roll in, I rec'd the CPU block, the pump, 4 fan controller, res, mx-2, and misc mounting stuff.
 
yeah i decided to go with the tried and true Yate Loons.

I also switched from the worm clamps to the black clips for two reasons they seem to work just fine and they look a lot cleaner.

I figured I'm out of town next week and that following weekend will be my build weekend.
 
How about mounting the pump, can it be mounted at any angle? Reason I ask is I have room for the pump and the res in the 5.25 bays, which would dramatically shrink the amount of tubing I would need. My alternative is mounting it on the bottom which will require alot of tubing!

Thoughts?

I'm also going to make sure I cut the tubing from the GFX Card back to the res with some extra length, because this simple extra 6-8inches will allow me to easily move the house down to teh 2nd GTX if I decide to add the 2nd GTX.

:)
 
Can anyone help me with a question.

I'm having a helluva time finding a good source to know if I have properly identified the NB on the 680i mobo.

I have a thread following my water cooling build here: which includes pictures.

Also does the SB need to be cooled?

Never mind figured out the SB issue, and bought an EK-NF4 rev1.1 block which was recommended for the southbridge on the 680i.
 
A few of my random thoughts, which may be right or may be wrong, it's all opinion:

Fans seem to work alot better pulling - on my rad i put one pulling and one pushing, alot more came through the one pulling. Checked dangerden's forums and they all vote for pulling as well.

I don't know the technical answer for the pump and if you can mount it anywhere but my buddy has his mounted in his 5.25" bay with his reservoir and it works fine. I have the 655 and it's screwed firmly to the bottom of my case so it doesn't try torqueing one way when it's on. So wherever you mount it, make sure it's on solid.

SB just needs a copper block. When you put your gcard and CPU on water, you take alot of heat out of the case that would otherwise be heating up other components as it gets blown out of the case by a bunch of noisy fans.

Typically on a mobo, there's one small fan somewhere... that's the NB. Looks like on the evga 680i they may have skipped the small fan for a fancy heatsink... what are your current NB temps? are they worth trying to bring down?

Also, 45C under load is a reasonable target. I'd guess it'd go 40-45 range, I shouldn't think it'd go much higher with one GTX. Have no idea what it'd do with two...
 
plot said:
A few of my random thoughts, which may be right or may be wrong, it's all opinion:

Fans seem to work alot better pulling - on my rad i put one pulling and one pushing, alot more came through the one pulling. Checked dangerden's forums and they all vote for pulling as well.

I don't know the technical answer for the pump and if you can mount it anywhere but my buddy has his mounted in his 5.25" bay with his reservoir and it works fine. I have the 655 and it's screwed firmly to the bottom of my case so it doesn't try torqueing one way when it's on. So wherever you mount it, make sure it's on solid.

SB just needs a copper block. When you put your gcard and CPU on water, you take alot of heat out of the case that would otherwise be heating up other components as it gets blown out of the case by a bunch of noisy fans.

Typically on a mobo, there's one small fan somewhere... that's the NB. Looks like on the evga 680i they may have skipped the small fan for a fancy heatsink... what are your current NB temps? are they worth trying to bring down?

Also, 45C under load is a reasonable target. I'd guess it'd go 40-45 range, I shouldn't think it'd go much higher with one GTX. Have no idea what it'd do with two...
Click to expand...

I have the fans pulling setup in a Thermochill 120.3 shround setup. I went ahead and water cooled the SB, that way I might get a little more OC out of the mobo.

Yeah that was the range I was thinking, with two I guess I'd probably see a max of 50c, but if I add two GTX's into the loop I'm going to add a second pump and set that one up in a pull configuration, so one pump before the loop one after. If i add the second gtx that is.

Thanks for the feedback.
 
If you add a second pump for the second GTX, you could also add a second rad like the MCR220 and just put it on a second loop. Doing that the second pump could be much smaller - like an mcp355. Wouldn't need a res you can just do a T, put two low speed yate loons on the second rad and you'd have a fully functional easy to maintain second loop that should cool a gcard just fine.
 
Well my first kink in the project...

Sidewindercomputers "Never received my order"

Emailed them guy contacted me back, never heard from him again...

Ordered from somewhere that truly have been reliable and that is Jab-Tech.

I really hate dealing with shady low cost vendors... sometimes I'd rather just pay a hair more and kow it will arrive on time!

Also Jab-tech had the black Tygon tubing and I was like Hmmm... So I added that I'm not sure which I will do, but I'm liking the black because I do not plan to die the water so no real reason to see the water and if it would make it more resistant to algae might be my best bet! But then again how do you know if you filled all the tubes initially... ahh decisions!
 
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