WCooling Recommendations for an FX-53

bimmer01

[H]ard|Gawd
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Jun 29, 2004
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any ideas?
i'm new to watercooling parts. I've used thermaltake Aquarius before. Bad experience.
One of the worse WC kit i've ever used.
Any ideas for components or a kit?
 
uhh for an fx-53 i assume you have a little money to spend on the cooling? what's the price range? you worried about looks or performance or both? for top of the line cooling i would say Cathar's G5 silver block. but that will be expensive and not availible until jan 05. his G4 line is basically the best on the market right now at around 90 USD shipped i think. the swifty's are ok, but IMO they look like crap. if you have an fx-53 then i'd want something good, but that's me. it all depends on the budget but dont get a kit. DangerDen stuff is pretty good. also depends on what you can fit in your case.
 
my budget is around 150max.
dangerden is what i was looking at. i have lianli PC70 so space is not an issue.

Gongo said:
uhh for an fx-53 i assume you have a little money to spend on the cooling? what's the price range? you worried about looks or performance or both? for top of the line cooling i would say Cathar's G5 silver block. but that will be expensive and not availible until jan 05. his G4 line is basically the best on the market right now at around 90 USD shipped i think. the swifty's are ok, but IMO they look like crap. if you have an fx-53 then i'd want something good, but that's me. it all depends on the budget but dont get a kit. DangerDen stuff is pretty good. also depends on what you can fit in your case.
 
I'm usure if $150 will do it unless you buy some stuff used. $200 will for sure.
 
$150 won't really cut it, but I can tell you what you CAN get for $150:

Danger Den TDX: $53
DD Double Heatercore with shroud: $50
Hydor L25: $38
Tubing etc gets you up to $150. You can spend the money for a 12v DD D4 pump which will improve the system a lot, and this doesn't even include additive... It is VERY hard to get a very good W/C system for under $150. A good 2/3 block setup runs around $300. Let me know what you think. Go to xtremesystems.org and look for my posts on watercooling setups.
 
dude you have an fx-53... and only 150 for cooling? uhh that's like someoen getting a ferrari with pleather seats....
 
Okay, my budget is out of the question now. 150-300 max :)
here's my wc parts for now:
give me thoughts and ideas.

Socket939 CPU BLOCK???? dunno which one
Black Ice Xtreme Radiator "Black"
Hydor L35 Pump
Bay Reservoir
2 120mm Fans
4oz Water Weter Coolant
7 Feet 1/2" Clearflex Tubing (Cut & put together)

LMK IF anything needs to be changed..
 
i'd suggest a dual heatercore instead...cuts a TON out of the price. as for the pump, you could also look into a) two CSP-750s in a series (or parallel, whichever has more max head), or b) eheim 1250...i have it and i love it (the eheim) its quiet and powerful, but its huge...i mean big....well, w/e


good luck!
 
Gongo said:
dude you have an fx-53... and only 150 for cooling? uhh that's like someoen getting a ferrari with pleather seats....


you assume that everyone that has an fx CPU has tons of money?? :rolleyes:

We need to keep in mind that all people that have a good system might not have alot of money....... They might have saved up for some time to get what they have at least I know that is what I do...... :(
 
I have a polar flo TT for my 939 3500+ , It would work for you plus it has some good reviews! If you got the cash go for the chrome set!
 
i might consider a asetek waterchill kit, is that better than the DD setup?
 
bimmer01 said:
I'm new to watercooling parts. One of the worse WC kit i've ever used.

How many kits have you used? :p

Seriously though, for top notch performance I would go with a DD RBX, D-Tec Whitewater or if you can get it, one of Cather's Storm blocks for the CPU. The WW and RBX are both 3 tube blocks which can get cluttered looking so if your looking for something a bit neater, the DD TDX is a good choice. (Cather's Storm is also 2 tube)
IMO, watercooling video RAM is not necessary so I would opt for a Maze-4 GPU cooler along with some ramsinks.
I also feel that watercooling the Northbridge is an un-needed restriction to a loop. My suggestion here would be to use a Thermalright NB-1C or a Swiftech MCX159.
For pumps, the Eheim pumps are top notch but awfully pricey. If your trying to keep the cost down, I would suggest a Maxijet1200. I use one with a WW and Maze-4 and it performs well and it's very quiet. They can be had for ~$20 + shipping which makes it a great bang for the buck. Also look at the Lang D4 or Swiftech MCB650.
For radiators, there are three options the way I see it.
1) Buy a pre-assembled unit and pay top dollar for it.
2) Buy a heater core for a lot less and mod it yourself for watercooling.
3) Buy an oil cooler off ebay with threaded holes.
On my system, I got a B&M Supercooler stacked fin oil cooler. It measures 1 1/2" x 3 3/4" x 11" and does a very good job in my loop. I paid $25 + shipping and all I needed to do to use it in my system is screw on some nylon barbs to the threaded outlets. I just looked on ebay (not very hard) and saw one (7 3/8" x 1 1/2"x 11") for $4.99 so far.
A reservior isn't necessary, but it makes filling, adding and bleeding a hell of a lot easier. The 2 types I would suggest for inside a case are the tube style reserviors and the bayres style. If you go with a bayres, I would get the DD high density Poly reservior to be assured of no leaks.
All that leaves is tubing, fittings and Misc. hardware. The obvious choice for tubing is Tygon or Clearflex. Either is good IMO. Hose clamps are not required as I have ran my system for almost 2 years without clamps or leaks. If you want the added security, plastic clamps or zip strips are my preference. Metal worm-gear type clamps can be too easily overtightened and have sharp edges that can cut into the tubing.

Hope this helps.
 
if you dont go with Cathar's Storm G4, go with DD stuff..

btw, how much do you value performance over bling bling? because that also makes a huge difference.
 
going for as much as i need.

OKAY, i narrowed it down.

CPU BLOCK (A64)
DD TDX (link) or D-TEK Whitewater(link) ?

RADIATOR
DD Dual Black ICE (link) OR Metallic Blue Dual Heatcore (link) ?

RESERVOIR
D-Tek Bay Resevior (link) OR
DangenDen Bay Reservoir OR Dual 5.25" Bay Typhoon Reservior

TUBING
Primoflex OR ClearFlex tubing?

PUMP
Hydor L35 OR MAG3 or Eheim1250?

Gongo said:
if you dont go with Cathar's Storm G4, go with DD stuff..

btw, how much do you value performance over bling bling? because that also makes a huge difference.
 
I would also add the Viaaqua 1300 though its performance is very similar to the hydor L30-35 but can be had for about the same price if not less, i paid $28 shipped for mine, for radiator a heatercore is the better solution, i've read that they perform better than the BIX series and flow resctriction is virtually non excistent. Just a though.
 
the whitewater will give you better performance but not by much. I would say go witht he TDX because i think it looks a little better and you dont want the hastle of 3 barbs.

if you like the system to look good as well as give performance, i'd say the dual black ice if you can see it from the case window. if not the dual heatcore will work well. btw what case are you using?

the UV res look nice, dont let people scare you with leakage stories. only very few leaked and most were probably from dropping or something. if you can see the res from the front (not using bay covers) go witht he UV if you like the bling bling (i personally do) but there is no doubt that the DD bay res, is superior in leak-proof means. however, i would suggest going witht he swifty poly res which is the same as the DD poly res but i hear the fillport is better designed.

go with clearflex tubing... tygon if you want top of the line

dont get the L35. I hear the mag3 is loud as hell.
go with the Eheim 1250 or the swifty 650 which is the same as the DD D4
btw, dont go cheap on the pump. the last thing you want is to leave your computer dling porn/BT's uhh i mean 'folding' when you go to sleep only to wake up with a dead pump and a fried cpu.
 
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