• A Great friend to the HardForum with a great kid that he is trying to get a scholorship to continue his schooling. Please give hime a vote! Only 24 hours left! Thanks.
    If you have an VOTE FOR KEENAN!

WCing Rework - Before and After Pics

M

malicious

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Apr 8, 2005
Messages
4,772
Before:
Apogee
Bip1 w/ Radbox w/ 1200rpm Antec PRO-120mm
DD 1/2 Blue Tubing
Old Fortron painted black
3 2-device 24 inch data cables





HI RES



After:
TDX
BIP3 on top w/ black Yate Loon SLs 12v
MasterKleer 7/16ths tubes
Xfintiy 500w Gen 2
2 1-device braided data cables
wcrework002.jpg


wcrework021.jpg


wcrework020.jpg


wcrework031.jpg


wcrework013.jpg


wcrework012.jpg


wcrework018.jpg


wcrework017.jpg


Findings:
Hard to say what the difference is because i changed cpu's too. I was running a 35watt xp-m 2400+ .. now it's a thoroughbred A 2000+ .. anybody know which is hotter? I know mobo temps aren't reliable but this one has been primeing for hours at 42C @ 1.65vcore.

Also, for those interested - I've found 1C difference in temps between setting 5(max) and 1(min) on my laing D5 pump... she's much quieter on 1 so i'll leave it there...

haven't tried 5volting the yate loons yet ..

oh, one last thing .. the 7/16ths seems to be fine without wormclamps over 1/2 barbs .. i used hot water to fit them soo....... we'll see if it holds but *crosses fingers* no drips yet..

let me know what you think..

mal
 
I think you should still use clamps anyways, other than that it looks nice and neat, just another one showing you that big bore looks great too!
 
the bend coming out of the GPU looks a bit tight. it looks like the tube is flattening out some, pinching off flow.

if that's actuallly the case, the pump might run quieter at higher settings if you fix that bit of tubing by tweaking the length or put some coils on there. pinched/kinked tubing tends to make the pump buzz/growl/hum.

if i may ask, why did you switch procs? is the 2000 that you picked up an unusually good overclocker? did the mobile die? the mobile should have been cooler running at stock speeds. bartons heat up more at a given speed and voltage than t-breds, but those mobile procs could scale to a given speed with less voltage than most t-breds.

my xp1700+ and xp1800+ DLT3C T-breds were both gret chips.........i only moved to mobile because half of the cache on my primary disappeared, and i only got things running 100 MHz faster.
 
that's only the picture ... it's not pinched ...

i switched to the 2000+ because i needed to get some cash out of the golden sample xp-m i had ... i traded my cpu for this one + 45 bucks ... and promptly bought a new PSU with the xtra cash ....

this is doing ok though .. i'm just running it stock speed but undervolted to 1.55 ..

thanks for the comments...

mal
 
It has come to my attention that hardly anyone attemtps to WC midtowers. Should I take this as a hint and get rid of my Centurion 5?
 
CRXican said:
It has come to my attention that hardly anyone attemtps to WC midtowers. Should I take this as a hint and get rid of my Centurion 5?
Click to expand...
say what? plenty of people watercool mid towers.......you just need to pick your case and decide how much you are willing to have visable.
 
:eek: You crazy mofo not using clamps!!

Very nice looking, but get clamps! Better safe than sorry!
 
it's been months and months and not one drip

boiling water = no drips w/ no clamps
 
malicious said:
it's been months and months and not one drip

boiling water = no drips w/ no clamps
Click to expand...
well when the one day comes after many more months, i hate to say i told you so. better be safe then sorry. why chanche ruinung 2k because your to cheap to spend 2.00


what case is that, did it come back inside or did you paint it?
 
superflower old school case w/ black anodized on the inside...

don't hold your breath on the i told you so with the fittings... they are on very very tight ... when the tubes cool after heated they fit really tight ...

plus the cost of the components is <$250

i have worm clamps ... i choose not to use them... i get hated on for it but whatever its my shit and it looks sweet..

mal
 
Yes, have fun when it leaks...

I forgot to tighten a worm clamp on my one radiator and had one drip come out about 3 hours into it running.
 
the only drips i've ever had w/ wcing is when i used 1/2 tubes with 1/2 barbs ... 7/8 tubes over 1/2 barbs w/ boiling water has never leaked a drop and i'll be the first to post back here if it ever does

almost 6 months so far
 
I hate to break it to you, but even with clamps I think your going to have massive leaks with 7/8" tubing over 1/2" inch barbs ;)
 
yea ... lol i just realized that i said that

3/8ths

sheese ... you guys are ruthless

cheers,

mal
 
Mal, I'm with you 110% of the way dude. I dont use clamps on my setup either XD.

Ugly clamps are uuugly.


Since last july (2005) without any accidental leaks ;). (I use the OH CRAP method of draining my loop)
 
what's that method?

i usually cut the tubes off the gpu block and let it drain into a big plastic bowl
 
malicious said:
what's that method?

I usually cut the tubes off the gpu block and let it drain into a big plastic bowl
Click to expand...
I pull my CPU block off, hover it over a bowl, and slice off the tube. Water proceeds to go everwhere :)

At least it's not in my case...

 
i've got lots of parts wet before (back when i use to use clamps) and they always just dried out and kept working.. i've got a sound card that had a huge puddle on it and it works fine still ...

mal
 
I've had my Res crack and spray everything with water while I was stress testing (Who knew an overclock stressed the res :p) and the only thing that died was a HD...

 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top