WC'ing DreamCatcher v2.0

[jedihobbit]

Now that Celtic Spirit again is being placed on indefinite hold, and bringing DreamCatcher into the realm of AM2, I’m again looking at water-cooling.

Major components:

Case: Ultra “Hybrid” MX6
Mobo: Abit NF-M2 nView
CPU: AMD 4000+ Brisbane
GPU: evga 8800GT Superclocked

The reason I think W/C’ing will be required is the fact that I will be oc’ing the mobo assembly and it is a SFF system. All of the testing so far has been on air in the open chassis environment of my Tech Station. When ambient air is around 18C the CPU doesn’t go above 50C but this is with the hsf’s 80mm at about 3900 - 4000 rpm with 2 additional 120s at low rpm blowing across the board. However when ambient goes to 24-25C the cpu jumps up to the 54 – 58C range and that’s with the 80 going around 4600rpm and the 2 120s at max. And the GPU hasn’t even been added to the ratio yet! The MX6 while having better airflow than the original MicroFly is still limited to 1 x 80mm in and 1 x 120mm out stock.

I’m looking at using Aqua Computer components using an Aquaduct 240 PRO Mark II as the starting point. This will place the “big” stuff outside, avoid clutter in an already small case, and simplify a lot of issues.

What I would like for y’all to help me with is routing and connector suggestions. The plan is to use 6 x 8 tubing. At a minimum I’m looking at cooling the CPU and GPU with the possibility of the NB. The NB cooler on the nView is Abit’s OTES design I would also have to cool the voltage regulators as well.

So this is what I had in mind:
CPU: Cuplex XT di
GPU: AquagraFX 8800
NB: Twinplex XT di
Mosfets: Abit OTES Mosfet cooler

In theory what would be the most efferent order in piping the above components? Also I guess straight fittings are preferred over angled. It is realized once inside the case that may have to change just because of their locations. I dummied up some pics (need to invest in a cheap CAD program!!) as a rough reference.

The following pictures are for reference only as they are from the 939 build, but surprisingly the main component locations are very close between the abit and the biostar. It shows the lack of room and possible tube routing issues.

Another idea I had is based on the fact the MX6 has a mobo tray that forms part of cases rear. The idea would be to place bulkhead with disconnects (if the exist) there. This way, again in theory, nothing internally would have to be disconnected when removing the mobo tray.

But it didn’t take long for my first major crash and burn!! Was reviewing some pics from DreamCatcher build and it looks like the AquagraFX 8800 isn’t going to fly. Most of the full cover coolers are being built with SLI in mind so the in/out ports extend beyond the edge of the gpu.

Well my friend that area is occupied by the PSU in the case!

So it looks like I need another option for this one……maybe a chipset only type and in trying to keep it single slot one that has the in/out ports parallel to the board. Something maybe like the Swiftech MCW60-R maybe? As I have a lead on an interesting heat sink that will take care of everything else in mind……had found it back in the “on air” design. These bolt on and do not rely on pads or epoxy!

Only problem is finding them!! According to the designer they are supposed to be at ChilledPC, Petra's, and Sidewinder. The only ones I can currently find are at ChilledPC.

 

[jedihobbit]

It would seem that I will be going with the Swiftech MCW60-R for my GPU because of the lack of space, however………. the plastic barbs kinda scare me. Does anyone have any input/experience with this unit?? Are the barbs screwed or glued in place?

 

[n00btard]

It would seem that I will be going with the Swiftech MCW60-R for my GPU because of the lack of space, however………. the plastic barbs kinda scare me. Does anyone have any input/experience with this unit?? Are the barbs screwed or glued in place?

Screwed in. And it's compatible with G1/4 so you should be able to use most aftermarket metal barbs that are threaded for 1/4BSPP

 

[vsboxerboy]

mad m/s paint skillz, should lower your temps by 5C

 

[silent-circuit]

Question: Why not run a Zalman Reserator instead? Same deal pretty much, but should cost less. Or better yet, bend yourself some plexi and build your own radiator/pump housing.

 

[jedihobbit]

mad m/s paint skillz, should lower your temps by 5C

 

[jedihobbit]

Question: Why not run a Zalman Reserator instead? Same deal pretty much, but should cost less. Or better yet, bend yourself some plexi and build your own radiator/pump housing.

It fit more in with what I wanted to do, however if I can't get the version I want (currently in Germany only and with the euro at 1.52 might be out of the question anyway. May then look at the zalman or something like it.

 

[jedihobbit]

Now that I’ve gotten reassurances about the plastic barbs on the Swiftech will be looking to order it. According to the web site “The water-block ships with 1/2", 3/8" and 1/4" barbs for universal compatibility with any liquid cooling circuit." And as n00btard pointed out "The NPSM thread used in the MCW60 is BSPP and G 1/4 fittings compatible (see technical note on Fittings Compatibility)”

As it seems the “big” parts have been determined need help with the little stuff. While on the subject of barbs, need a little input on fittings and tubing. As stated earlier think I use the 6mm x 80mm (1/4”) tubing and will need recommendations on fittings.

Not wanting to start any range wars but……..

What type of fittings usually works best with that size of tubing?
1. Compression
2. Slip
3. Clamp
4. Other

Also could use suggestion as to the “type” of tubing is “best”. I believe the 240 Pro comes with some tubing, but would maybe like to use something more translucent “inside”. As usual still have the “bling” factor in mind and would like a little color. Might even consider UV as an option.

I guess the obvious issue would be to avoid if possible any “angled” fittings?

At this time I would also like to ask y’all to reconsider the first part of this thread for suggestion as to the loop order based on the mobo layout and wither or not the “quick connects” (bulk head) in the mobo tray looks like a good idea. The reason for going with the external rad/pump/res idea was to avoid clutter AND be able to remove the mobo tray without having to unhook a lot of stuff.

 

[jedihobbit]

As best I can tell with the layout I’ve proposed above, the loop would be 240 CASE IN > CPU > GPU > NB > Mosfets > CASE OUT > 240

Going out on a limb, but here is what I’m looking to buy, however, everything in bold/italics seems to be unique to Europe.

1. Aquaduct 240 Pro Mk II
2. Cuplex XT di
3. Twinplex XT di
4. Abit OTES Mosfet cooler #26010
5. twinplex pro for FX8800

Now the little things, like fittings. It seems while again not cost effective I’ll probably stay with A-C parts where I can. Because of the small size of the case and Aquaduct is fitted for it, I’ll be going with the 6 x 8 mm size tubing. Also for the 6 x 8 mm size it looks like I’ll do compression fittings because of my paranoia! The two cutoff valves are included as I would like to figure how to connect either to the bulkhead fittings or make them the bulkhead fittings.

1. 4 x 6x1mm Compression Fittings – G1/4
2. 8 x 6x1mm Compression Fittings – G1/8
3. 2 x 6x1mm Compression Bulkhead Fittings
4. 2 x G1/8 Ball Valve
5. As Reqd x #61003 (61011) Plug & Cool Tubing, clear (will this work with compression fittings?)

The 240 Pro Mk II has the I/O plate with grommets for the tubing, but I still want to come in and out on the mobo tray as I showed before. If I were the real craftsman I would try to figure out how to mount the pc board to the mobo tray also.

Other than the fluid and additives what am I missing?

HOWEVER……

with the dollar in an inverted flat spin, some of these items may chance depending on how quickly I can buy. The last time I checked the conversion for $US to Euro is 1.5587

SO the biggest casualty would be the Aquaduct 240 Pro, would be replaced with the Non-Pro. It would seem I would loose primarily the 12V pump and all of the software goodness (monitoring and control). Also the A-C GPU water block would be swapped out for the Swiftech MCW60-R and would consider dropping the NB – Mosfet blocks.

 

[jedihobbit]

It has begun!!!!

This arrived first of the week from our side of the pond.......

Along with 4 x

and 2 x

And now that paypal finally got off of their a** and posted my funds these will be shipping soon

1 x Twinplex Pro for FX8800 #23397
1 x Aquaduct 240 PRO mark II #11205
2 x G1/8 Ball Valve #90023
4 x Plug & Cool Straight Fitting - G1/8 #90002
4' - 5' x clear plug & cool tubing (#61003)

Sadly I had to drop the following due to financial needs and the $US to Euro exchange rate:

1 x Abit OTES Mosfet cooler #26010
1 x twinplex XT di #24152
4 x Plug & Cool Straight Fitting - G1/8 #90002

Since everything has been selected and will be getting into the building / install part might as well head over to DreamCatcher v2.0's work log for the rest!

 

[ballistic]

I believe these are the 8800gt memory heatsinks you are looking for?

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/cu88mecokitb.html
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/cui88mevrmco.html

 

[jedihobbit]

They be the ones and almost picked up a set from sidewinder until I picked up the "natual" ones from IsLNdbOi here in the F/S section! Thanks!

 

[Tremeloes]

i had the same problem with the 8800gt in my built. i´m now using this cooler:

it´s the Zalman WM-GWB8800 GT/GTS (G92)

 

[silent-circuit]

...aluminum /bad/....

 

[Tremeloes]

...aluminum /bad/....

reasons? or just your small opinion?

 

[silent-circuit]

reasons? or just your small opinion?

The greater bulk of high end watercooling equipment uses at least some copper. The base plates and conduction channels/pins of many, many blocks are copper. Mix copper and aluminum in the same loop, you get corrosion. You can run additives that'll inhibit this corrosion, but they don't work flawlessly and you can get more gunky buildup than usual as a result, requiring more frequent cleaning of the loop. Few people want to deal with that. As copper is more widely used and has slightly more favorable thermal properties anyway, the ideal solution is to run an all copper loop. Hence, "aluminum bad."

Also, my opinion rivals certain island nations in size. Consider yourself informed.

 

[jedihobbit]

...aluminum /bad/....

Who's loop has aluminum? aqua computer is copper and nickle plate.

 

[Tremeloes]

Mix copper and aluminum in the same loop, you get corrosion.

i use an additive and never had problems with corrosion or anything else for years.

As copper is more widely used and has slightly more favorable thermal properties anyway

the Zalman cooler is about 5-7° worse than other 88gt coolers like Innovatek or EK. Thos shouldn´t be a problem unless it´s still much better than aircooling.

so, aluminium - no problem in my opinion. (but diffrent people - diffrent opinions )

Who's loop has aluminum? aqua computer is copper and nickle plate.

he meant the Zalman 88gt cooler i suggested...