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WC for 24/7 operation?
- Thread starter JoeKewl
- Start date
{NcsO}ReichstaG
[H]ard|Gawd
- Joined
- Aug 13, 2004
- Messages
- 1,768
Depeonds on how careful you are at setting up your loop.
For example, leak test it for 24-48 hours...possibly make it so that if the pump fails, have the computer shut itself down.
However, the easiest thing to do is just to go with a Hs/F(like a Tt Sonic Tower, or Big Typhoon or w/e else...)
For example, leak test it for 24-48 hours...possibly make it so that if the pump fails, have the computer shut itself down.
However, the easiest thing to do is just to go with a Hs/F(like a Tt Sonic Tower, or Big Typhoon or w/e else...)
Why not, if you prepare as you build as the previous poster said..Proper components (ie: no Alu and Copper mixed in the loop - galvanic corrosion?), proper mounting/cooling/etc, sufficient leak testing..Should be no problem.
I finally came to the wet side of town in January, and my PC runs 24/7 no problems. I was a bit worried at first, especially when I *did* have a leak a few days after (even with 24-36 hours leak testing beforehand)... I didn't screw the barbs on my Apogee down enough, saw a puddle of neon goop (only noticed b/c I had my now dead UV CC's on!) on top of my still then new 7800gt. I immediately shut it down, cleaned the card, remounted the barbs/block and haven't looked back. In the end, I believe the barb problem was exacerbated (sp?) by my too long loop going from the block > res, which butts up against my case side/window - I'll get around to re-doing my loop soon enough, thinking about a block for my new 7900gt/co.
Long story short - just take it slow..Research your parts you want, make sure they will all be good for your needs. And when you actually get around to installing everything - take it nice and SLOW. I took a couple hours drilling holes for the rad tubing on my case, "measuring"/cutting tubing, test mounting, etc before setting the rest up - no need to RUSH it and kill your goods.
I finally came to the wet side of town in January, and my PC runs 24/7 no problems. I was a bit worried at first, especially when I *did* have a leak a few days after (even with 24-36 hours leak testing beforehand)... I didn't screw the barbs on my Apogee down enough, saw a puddle of neon goop (only noticed b/c I had my now dead UV CC's on!) on top of my still then new 7800gt. I immediately shut it down, cleaned the card, remounted the barbs/block and haven't looked back. In the end, I believe the barb problem was exacerbated (sp?) by my too long loop going from the block > res, which butts up against my case side/window - I'll get around to re-doing my loop soon enough, thinking about a block for my new 7900gt/co.
Long story short - just take it slow..Research your parts you want, make sure they will all be good for your needs. And when you actually get around to installing everything - take it nice and SLOW. I took a couple hours drilling holes for the rad tubing on my case, "measuring"/cutting tubing, test mounting, etc before setting the rest up - no need to RUSH it and kill your goods.
I haven't seen any complaints re: longevity on the Laing/DD D5//Swiftech MCP 655 (or their predecessor the D4/MCP650 (?)) pump..Only some about humming noises or something, but I don't notice any noise at all, even with the pot on the back at full blast.
I sure hope it does last a good long while - I'd hate to have to plonk down ~$75+ to replace it.
[edit] Somewhat in reponse to post BELOW..
Besides one of the advantages to getting a 12v pump is the fact it will turn on with your PC.. No forgetting to turn on the pump or unnecessary pump uptime (negated for me by 24/7 usage tho).. No running a cord from your outlet (thus taking up yet another spot- I already have too many plugs!) to the pump.. Nor having to build/buy one of those Criticool pump relays - which I'm not sure are even available anymore - didn't they go bankrupt?
You of course have to then figure that extra 12v draw into your power needs. (2a @ 12v/operating range 8-24v).
I sure hope it does last a good long while - I'd hate to have to plonk down ~$75+ to replace it.
[edit] Somewhat in reponse to post BELOW..
Besides one of the advantages to getting a 12v pump is the fact it will turn on with your PC.. No forgetting to turn on the pump or unnecessary pump uptime (negated for me by 24/7 usage tho).. No running a cord from your outlet (thus taking up yet another spot- I already have too many plugs!) to the pump.. Nor having to build/buy one of those Criticool pump relays - which I'm not sure are even available anymore - didn't they go bankrupt?
You of course have to then figure that extra 12v draw into your power needs. (2a @ 12v/operating range 8-24v).
My pump has been on 24/7 for over a year now. Its an eheim 1250.
I turn my computer off, but the pump keeps pumping no mater what.
I have the same fluid in for over a year, and i have had no leaks.
I top it off when i see it gets low though.
So no problems WC 24/7 that i see.
I turn my computer off, but the pump keeps pumping no mater what.
I have the same fluid in for over a year, and i have had no leaks.
I top it off when i see it gets low though.
So no problems WC 24/7 that i see.
Thanks everyone for all the feedback, very helpful. Couple more questions / comments though.
Does anyone make a leak detection kit?
Something like an inline sensor that will alert the computer (via com, or usb) that there was a pressure loss, of low coolant?
Also, does anyone run non-conducting fluid in their setup?
So if there were a leak, it wouldn't damage anything.
I guess I could always set the system to shut-down if the cpu temps get too high.
Does anyone run (multiple?) water temp sensors on their systems? If so, got any pics?
Does anyone make a leak detection kit?
Something like an inline sensor that will alert the computer (via com, or usb) that there was a pressure loss, of low coolant?
Also, does anyone run non-conducting fluid in their setup?
So if there were a leak, it wouldn't damage anything.
I guess I could always set the system to shut-down if the cpu temps get too high.
Does anyone run (multiple?) water temp sensors on their systems? If so, got any pics?
This thread got me thinking about pump maintenance.
Besides flow meters and noticable increases in temperature, are there any warning signs? Anything that can be done proactively for the pump during the drain/refill maintenance to make sure it keeps running smoothly?
Lastly anyone have experience with pump failure and the bios auto shutoff threshold kicking in and saving the day, or did the water boil and the tubes melt like in the WC horror stories?
Besides flow meters and noticable increases in temperature, are there any warning signs? Anything that can be done proactively for the pump during the drain/refill maintenance to make sure it keeps running smoothly?
Lastly anyone have experience with pump failure and the bios auto shutoff threshold kicking in and saving the day, or did the water boil and the tubes melt like in the WC horror stories?