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WC Advice

S

sysTERROR404

n00b
Joined
Feb 26, 2008
Messages
41
Throughout the years, I've always looked, but never really delved into watercooling anything I've built for myself.

However, within the past few years or so, especially after going from a EVGA 760 board to a ASUS Rampage III (which all ran fine minus the SATA hiccups on the EVGA); I've determined one thing: If there is one constant in overclocking components, especially with those 2 examples, there needs to be some sort of aftermarket cooling for the northbridge chipsets.

I have since re-built by old rig; gravitating towards ASUS once again (and it works fantastic vs it's EVGA counterpart), and also grabbing a new case, the CM HAF X.

I'm probably posting something that has been beat to death from newcomers wanting advice, getting the same responses, etc..and I guess I'm no different. However, instead of googling all of my answers from various sites that basically go from simple advice, to nerd-raging over something as simple as a chipset cooler choice, I'd post here where I've called home for my own advice, as to pass it unto others.

It's very simple:

1. I'd like to WC the Northbridge/CPU.
2. What preference/suggestions for brands. (I've been looking at EK for MB block / Heatkiller; Apogee for the CPU)
3. I'd like to keep the current "red" theme I have, and would like to know if colored tubing, and/or liquid with additives is the best to achieve this.
4. What kind of resevoir to take? I like some of the ones I've seen, like a res tube modelled after the T-Virus container in Resident Evil, or if bay-mounted resevoirs are recommended. I'd like to keep them internal if possible.
5. Pump/Rad. Suggestions?
6. I guess this one is all really up to the imagination, but about fittings/barbs, etc. What's the typical amount, and is there alot of leeway in choices?

I have a current budget of around $500-$750, but would obviously like to see if it can be cheaper. Even if I get pointed to some layouts that you would personally prefer I look at would work. I feel as though I've read & read about this, but I'm still hesitant as I don't want to pick a bunch of items and then realize I'm too nervous (which I won't be, but nonetheless) or ill-equipped to go forward.

I've come here because I've been coming here for years getting advice, and sharing it to become the PC builder I am today. Thanks in advance for any suggestions and always, stay [H]ard.
 
This might go better in the watercooling subforum...

Definitely use colored tubing. Do not use colored dyes, they gunk up your system. I personally use Primochill Primoflex UV Blue tubing, Tygon is usually the recommended tubing.

EK usually makes the nicest looking blocks. Swiftech makes the best value, usually. There's also lots of other blocks out there, I use D-tek, because I was able to get them cheap.

Basically any reservoir will be fine as long as it doesn't leak and allows water to get to your pump. Cheap reservoirs are the Swiftech Micro-Res series, fancy reservoirs are like the T-Virus you mentioned. All reservoirs pretty much behave the same way, it's all about whether you want to spend on aesthetics here.

Pump: MCP655 or MCP355, or any of their equivalents. MCP655 is also known as Laing D5, MCP355 is also known as Laing DDX (I think). You may or may not want to get aftermarket pump tops. They improve performance and generally improve aesthetics, but you decide whether it's worth it for you to change the pump top.

Since you are getting the HAF X, I would recommend getting a 3x120 radiator, since the HAF X natively supports it.. If you're going for performance, get a high FPI (fins per inch) radiator with high speed fans. If you're going for quietness, go with a thick low FPI radiator with low speed fans. If you want both, get a middle of the road radiator with semi-high speed fans and a fan controller. Swiftech makes good value middle of the road radiators. I believe Rasa makes both high FP and low FPI radiators. There's also several other companies to look at, like HWLabs and several others. Just look at reviews, I believe there's a really good sticky in the watercooling forum comparing 3x120 radiators.

Fittings- typically two per component in your system. Size doesn't really matter. Compression fittings usually looks much nicer, but are much more expensive. Barb fittings are much cheaper, and work just as well as compression fittings with clamps. Your choice whether you want to spend the money here.

I believe you can easily build a 3x120 radiator system for cooling your cpu and northbridge for around $300. That's if you get budget items (barbs, cheap reservoir, no aftermarket pump top, etc). Once you start getting things for purely aesthetic reasons, that's when your budget goes flying out the window.
 
Der. In my haste to make a post about it due to time constraints, I of course, like some people, overlooked the fact there is a watercooling sub-forum. If any moderator can see this, could you move it to the appropriate forum please?

Onward, yeah. I figured a colored tubing would be better as I've read quite a few reviews of gunk/dye/particles clogging the components making cleaning more of a hassle than it's worth. That was noted.

More so, I seem to be liking this chipset block: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...Kit_-_Nickel_EK-FB_RE3_-_Nickel_Hot_Item.html The more reviews I read about it, I get that glimmering sense of hope it may be the one.

It really seems to be the simple, smaller things that are driving me nuts. I'd like to maintain the cleanliness of the case thus far and wouldn't want tubing going everywhere thus forcing me to almost think I need to buy excess tubing (some suggestions as far as brands) just to satiate my noobness upon first building it.

Depending on the res choice, my design scheme will/could change dramatically depending on what I decide for, also the location of the pump.

As far as aesthetics, I'd like a clean look such as this: http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/660/dscf3350.jpg, while not trying to copy it altogether. (Malik is my main source of inspiration for wanting WC'ing in the first place aside from heat issues themselves) Also, what CPU waterblock is that?

Edit: Holy crap: Looking through this forum: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=141863&page=44 I can't really deny it anymore, I want that setup minus the GPU cooling. Jesus, it's so pretty.
 
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That block looks like a Danger Den block... the one you mentioned in the picture. It is an older design, still works well, but a bit outdated.
Edit: Yeah, that looks like a Danger Den socket 775 block.

Go ahead and get that chipset block. It'll make things much easier for you for cooling the motherboard. I'm considering getting one such block for my Crosshair IV later on.

Always buy extra tubing. It's always easier to have some leftover and cut the pieces you need, than having to buy more and having some pieces laying around absolutely useless.
 
For tubing, its kinda difficult to suggest anything but Tygon R-3606 with 1/8" walls: http://www.tygon.com/tygon-r3603-vacuum-tubing.aspx

As for where to buy it at a reasonable price, that may take some looking. I usually buy it from whichever science supply company has the best deals for my lab, but even then it's not cheap. But it lasts longer than you're setup will, so you can always keep the leftovers and try to use them when you upgrade because Tygon stays flexible forever.

The down side is the color issue. Tygon only comes in clear (as far as I know). While I have read similar things about dyes gumming up systems, that seems to me to occur when people just sort of start mixing products that don't chemically work well together. While I don't typically mix my own fluid, many people do. One of the biggest mistakes I've seen is usually in the first step: failing to get properly prepared distilled water. Having properly distilled water will mean nearly zero ionic content (no ions means no conductivity) and can mean the difference between having corrosion or salts building up or not. Once you get the proper water, use additives that come from the same company. If you use the Feser corrosion blocker, use the Feser algeacide/bacteriocide and dyes as well. The individual manufacturers should be able to tell you what not to mix together. The other option is just to buy premixed coolant. While it gets expensive, some coolants (like the Koolance stuff I use) doesn't really promote growth of stuff, and you can usually get away with reusing it for a year or two.

Bottomline: That picture of Malik's rig uses Tygon and dyed fluid, so if that is what you are aiming for, that is what you must use.
 
Ya good call on the tubing topic thats way better then that 0.02 a foot garbige that sell with most kits.
My self though being a computer user that doesn't care about case modding id one up that even more and use nylon braided industrial fuel line tubing,iv pull that stuff out of pick up trucks that are 30 years old and guess what,still good as new.

And all i can say on the water block topic is if you want the good stuff go all copper or copper\brass combo and don't touch anything with acrylic tops, its cracks just give it time.
 
Great suggestions.

In looking at the preferences and the results (God, the stock HS for the RIIIE is complete garbage. 5C hotter? :O) I'll probably be going the same route as you regarding the CPU and MOSFET coolers.

The real choices now are the res/pump/rad and the fans. I also believe I can do this in a single loop with the 355's as I've read they're pretty potent on the flow rate, but don't compromise HR >-<LR flows.

Tubing, barbs, and other misc stuff I guess I can find on my own. It's really just the reviews and opinions for the CPU/MOSFET's that I was looking for, well, and the pumps most people recommend..which are basically the heart of everything.
 
As long as you're running 3 or less waterblocks and 2 or less radiators, you're fine with a single MCP355. I personally use the MCP655 (Laing D5).

Having tubing that never comes off the barbs can be a pain, especially if you're one of those people who needs to occasionally take apart their loop due to changing parts.
 
2. What preference/suggestions for brands. (I've been looking at EK for MB block / Heatkiller; Apogee for the CPU)
3. I'd like to keep the current "red" theme I have, and would like to know if colored tubing, and/or liquid with additives is the best to achieve this.
4. What kind of resevoir to take? I like some of the ones I've seen, like a res tube modelled after the T-Virus container in Resident Evil, or if bay-mounted resevoirs are recommended. I'd like to keep them internal if possible.
5. Pump/Rad. Suggestions?
6. I guess this one is all really up to the imagination, but about fittings/barbs, etc. What's the typical amount, and is there alot of leeway in choices?
Click to expand...

2) EK Supreme HF, XSPC Rasa, and Aquacomputer Kryos XT are the top blocks to get now. The Apogee XT is a bit dated and has a lot of restriction.

3) Get Primochill Primaflex Pro LRT tubing. That stuff has nice colors, is pretty affordable, and works very well.

4) Reservoir is a reservoir pretty much. Get what looks best to you

5) Contrary to what Tsumi said, the MCP355/DDC3.25 is the pump you want to use for restrictive loops as it has higher head pressure than the MCP655/D5. Seeing how you're not adding your GPU into the mix either pump will be fine. I would definitely get an aftermarket pump top if going with the DDC as it'll increase the performance even more and allow you to use 1/2" ID tubing.

Radiator wise, a solid 240 (XSPC RX240, Thermochill PA/TA120.2, HWLab Black Ice GTX240, TFC X-Changer 240) rad will work fine for your CPU + MB. A 360 would also work, and definitely be overkill, although it'd be a good idea since your HAF-X supports it naturally.

6) Do yourself a huge favor and get some Koolance VL3N quick disconnects. They make working on your loop extremely easier. With them you won't have to drain the whole loop every time you take it apart, and also are able to remove components much easier. I have four sets of them in my loop so I can take out the parts almost individually (rad + pump, CPU, GPUs) while leaving everything else installed.
 
Tsumi said:
As long as you're running 3 or less waterblocks and 2 or less radiators, you're fine with a single MCP355. I personally use the MCP655 (Laing D5).

Having tubing that never comes off the barbs can be a pain, especially if you're one of those people who needs to occasionally take apart their loop due to changing parts.
Click to expand...

Good point and very true. The only way to get it off is to cut it off, but it looks the best IMO. I redo my entire system every two years so its no problem for me.
 
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