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Watercooling Configuators?
- Thread starter rjolin01
- Start date
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2010
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- 14,448
Do you mean configurations? There's many watercooling companies out there.
Swiftech
D-tek
HWLabs (makes only radiators I believe)
and more that I can't name off the top of my head at the moment.
Swiftech
D-tek
HWLabs (makes only radiators I believe)
and more that I can't name off the top of my head at the moment.
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2006
- Messages
- 7,116
just search at the popular WC sites for 1366 blocks and GTX470 blocks
Compatibility?
Pretty simple most w/c parts are g1/4 threads with an appropriate sized barb on the other end. The only exception being thermochill rads (dunno if it applies to their new series) who use g3/8ths, so youll need an adapter if you want to use thermochill.
Keep it all copper, run distilled with pt nuke or a silver kill coil, and youll be golden.
Best of luck in your W/C adventures.
I reccomend the rasa kits, theyre good value for the money, and are within a few degrees C delta of the custom builds.
Pretty simple most w/c parts are g1/4 threads with an appropriate sized barb on the other end. The only exception being thermochill rads (dunno if it applies to their new series) who use g3/8ths, so youll need an adapter if you want to use thermochill.
Keep it all copper, run distilled with pt nuke or a silver kill coil, and youll be golden.
Best of luck in your W/C adventures.
I reccomend the rasa kits, theyre good value for the money, and are within a few degrees C delta of the custom builds.
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2010
- Messages
- 14,448
The only things you would need configurators for is the motherboard in my experience. Everything else usually clearly states what they're compatible with (the exception, in my experience, being the MCW60 and D-tek Fuzion V2 for the GTX 470/480/570/580, which can use the G80 brackets from the 8800 days).
Most CPU waterblocks come with adapters for all the major sockets, LGA775, 1155/1156, 1366, and AM2/3. Most universal GPU waterblocks come with adapters for most graphics cards. The only cards that are not supported natively by the MCW60/80 I believe are the GTX 460, and probably 560 (not applicable in your case). With the MCW60/80, you have the option of getting a heatsink for the MOSFETs and VRMs, so you can have the rest of the card air-cooled while having the GPU watercooled.
Full-cover waterblocks explicitly state which graphics card they're designed for, which is usually only one card (exceptions being the 65nm (old gen) GTX 280 and 260, and several others). Full-cover waterblocks also usually only work with reference model cards, so you're probably out of luck on a full-cover if you have a custom-designed PCB (which Gigabyte and Palit occasionally do).
Watercooling for the motherboard is a bit harder, you'll have to measure the distance between screws to find out which blocks can actually fit, if there isn't a full-cover waterblock designed specifically for your board. Since you have an Asus x58 board, chances are pretty high that Koolance has designed a waterblock for your board.
Everything else is just as Cat1yst said. Most waterblocks/radiators/pumps use G1/4 threads, making them compatible with any G1/4 fitting. Just make sure the fittings have the same ID (inner diameter), and if you're using compression fittings, OD (outer diameter). Then make sure your tubing has the same ID and OD. Swiftech pumps usually come with their own barbs already installed on the top, so if you plan to keep the pump stock, then you'll have to get tubing that fits the pump, and then match the fittings to it (MCP655 uses 1/2 ID, MCP350/355 use 3/8 ID). Or you can get custom tops for the pump (improves flow rate/pressure), and those use G1/4 threading for fittings.
I second making sure all parts use copper internals. If you have copper and aluminum internals, that's asking for corrosion to happen without the use of a special coolant. Just run distilled water, and put a silver killcoil in your reservoir (easier in my opinion than remembering to put pt nuke each time you change the water).
Radiators are the tricky part. You have to figure out where and how you want to mount your radiator. The Raven case is not optimized for watercooling, so you might have to improvise quite a bit. You also have to consider how big of a radiator you're going to use, and what you have room for. Consider what you're going for, silent computing or performance computing. With silent, you'll want low FPI (fins per inch) radiators with slow spinning fans. For performance, you want medium-high FPI with fast spinning fans. High FPI radiators will cool better in a smaller form factor, but you pay the price in increased noise levels.
There is no automatic tool on the internet for figuring out exactly what you need in your loop for your system, and how to do it. Part of the fun of a watercooling system is doing the research and designing for yourself what you want to make, and then putting it all together. If you're not up for the work and try to be lazy about watercooling, you're much better off air cooling, or using something like the H50. You are almost guaranteed to destroy something if you're being lazy about watercooling.
Most CPU waterblocks come with adapters for all the major sockets, LGA775, 1155/1156, 1366, and AM2/3. Most universal GPU waterblocks come with adapters for most graphics cards. The only cards that are not supported natively by the MCW60/80 I believe are the GTX 460, and probably 560 (not applicable in your case). With the MCW60/80, you have the option of getting a heatsink for the MOSFETs and VRMs, so you can have the rest of the card air-cooled while having the GPU watercooled.
Full-cover waterblocks explicitly state which graphics card they're designed for, which is usually only one card (exceptions being the 65nm (old gen) GTX 280 and 260, and several others). Full-cover waterblocks also usually only work with reference model cards, so you're probably out of luck on a full-cover if you have a custom-designed PCB (which Gigabyte and Palit occasionally do).
Watercooling for the motherboard is a bit harder, you'll have to measure the distance between screws to find out which blocks can actually fit, if there isn't a full-cover waterblock designed specifically for your board. Since you have an Asus x58 board, chances are pretty high that Koolance has designed a waterblock for your board.
Everything else is just as Cat1yst said. Most waterblocks/radiators/pumps use G1/4 threads, making them compatible with any G1/4 fitting. Just make sure the fittings have the same ID (inner diameter), and if you're using compression fittings, OD (outer diameter). Then make sure your tubing has the same ID and OD. Swiftech pumps usually come with their own barbs already installed on the top, so if you plan to keep the pump stock, then you'll have to get tubing that fits the pump, and then match the fittings to it (MCP655 uses 1/2 ID, MCP350/355 use 3/8 ID). Or you can get custom tops for the pump (improves flow rate/pressure), and those use G1/4 threading for fittings.
I second making sure all parts use copper internals. If you have copper and aluminum internals, that's asking for corrosion to happen without the use of a special coolant. Just run distilled water, and put a silver killcoil in your reservoir (easier in my opinion than remembering to put pt nuke each time you change the water).
Radiators are the tricky part. You have to figure out where and how you want to mount your radiator. The Raven case is not optimized for watercooling, so you might have to improvise quite a bit. You also have to consider how big of a radiator you're going to use, and what you have room for. Consider what you're going for, silent computing or performance computing. With silent, you'll want low FPI (fins per inch) radiators with slow spinning fans. For performance, you want medium-high FPI with fast spinning fans. High FPI radiators will cool better in a smaller form factor, but you pay the price in increased noise levels.
There is no automatic tool on the internet for figuring out exactly what you need in your loop for your system, and how to do it. Part of the fun of a watercooling system is doing the research and designing for yourself what you want to make, and then putting it all together. If you're not up for the work and try to be lazy about watercooling, you're much better off air cooling, or using something like the H50. You are almost guaranteed to destroy something if you're being lazy about watercooling.
Ok I am going to rephrase question. I am looking for something where I put in my motherboard type and it says "oh here are some cpu blocks, here are some cover all blocks, or hey this will work for your NB, SB or mosfet" I know how to water cool i just want to see what blocks are compatable with my board instead of going to 500 different sights. I feel that i may have to just search. Thought maybe there was a quicker way to find out all compatable blocks. When i go to some sites and put my board in the search it usually gives me the generic one size fits all blocks. I want board specific blocks. This really just applies to the NB/SB and mosfet cooling. As for how i going to integrate into my raven I already have that figured just need to find the beat parts for what I have.
A chipset waterblock for the ASUS P6X58D-E doesn't exist afaik. On the bright side, you probably don't need one unless you're planning for some very high overclocks.
Water cooling is niche hobby, you are not going to find an easy way to find that information. Basically every manufacturer (EK, Dangerden, Swiftec, Alphacool, couple others) has a premium and budget CPU block. In most cases you can get an adapter plate to use it with whatever your socket is (not to be confused with a backplate, which is also recommended).
There are also a couple "universal" blocks that can theoretically be used anywhere, and then there are indeed a couple board-specific designs for cooling NB/SB/VDIMMS, but you'll only see those for very expensive motherboards.
There are also a couple "universal" blocks that can theoretically be used anywhere, and then there are indeed a couple board-specific designs for cooling NB/SB/VDIMMS, but you'll only see those for very expensive motherboards.
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- 14,448
Well, if you read the motherboard part of what I put above, you'll have to look at your board, specifically your heatsinks, and measure the distances between the screws. Then you look at the universal blocks, and see what their mounting system is able to accomodate. Hardly anyone ever tells you specifically what the blocks will be compatible with, unless you happen to have a motherboard with which Koolance or maybe EK makes full-cover blocks.
CPU blocks are compatible with whatever socket they're designed for. Sockets of the same type use the exact same mounting system.
CPU blocks are compatible with whatever socket they're designed for. Sockets of the same type use the exact same mounting system.