Watercooling a Picture Walkthrough

S

Sunin

[H]ard|DCer of the Month - August 2008
Joined
Dec 27, 2005
Messages
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Well I tend to be a photo slut so I'm taking pictures of the process I went through.

I have a few screens of the before benchmarks which came out to be a max overclock of:

Stock
CPU: 2.4ghz
DDR2: 1ghz
GPU: 570mhz
GDDR3: 900mhz
3dmark06: 12132 <Link to be inserted soon

Max OC on Air
CPU: 3.519ghz (I think I could have gone to my previous max 3.535, but I was getting tired of the comp being picky with the memory)
DDR2: 1.066ghz
GPU: 621mhz
GDDR3: 1.080ghz
3dmark06: 13097 <Link to be inserted soon

Temps: CPU: 62c, System 43c, GPU: 79c

Here is the photo of the Antec Sonata II with all of the air cooling done to it. Keep in mind with the fans on full for the Max OC runs you could hear the whir of both the GTX and the Zalman 9700

My Starting Point

First thing I did was remove the GTX and unscrew 11 screws and clean up with 91% alcohol the various gpu, controller, and memroy/chips.

HSF off of the GTX - Full shot
HSF off of the GTX - Closeup

Then I began to gut the Antec Sonata II, here are few shots of the room I have to play with.
Gutted Case w/PSU only
Space I plan to mount the Pump and the Resevoir

Mounting of the Resevoir:
I found a spot right next to the PSU that would let me mount it hidden away, yet angled correctly to allow the return line and the pump line.

Resevoir Mounting Spot Shot 1
Resevoir Mounting Spot Full Shot

I then calculated a spot to drill the top of the case for the fill port on the resevoir.
Full Case Shot of Fill Port
Close-up of Fill Port 1
Close-up of Fill Port 2
Keep in mind the scratches you see are not visible with the naked eye, and that I intend to widen the fill port once I have my grommets here, but didn't want to risk making the fill port whole too wide and having them not fit. I intend on attaching a plastic tie wrap to the fill port to allow me to unscrew it and then pull it out of the whole in order to fill the resevoir.

Finally I worked on mounting the fans to the shround. I used rubber fan gaskets and rubber washers on both ends in order to eliminate as much vibration as possible. Less vibration = less noise overall.

Shroud with fans mounted
Shround fans attached to fan controller
Shot of the shrink tubing used to tidy up the wiring

More updates to come. Today I plan on mounting the CPU waterblock, so more pictures to come. Then I'll pick the project up next weekend when the rest of the parts arrive.

In the process of tearing down my Antec Sonata II, if you look back at the My Starting Point picture you'll notice there is no room between the HD cage and the 8800 for a fan, so I have always wanted to install a fan in the front. I knew there was enough room for it, but just never underwent this upgrade. Finally I have:

Space cut out for the 120mm Fan <- Used a dremel to cut out the surrounding plastic. Note: It doesn't have to look too pretty as you can't see it from the outside.
Full mounted to front of case showing fan clearance
Front shot showing that you cannot tell from the outside that a stealth 120mm fan was installed
Shot of the Yate Loon mounted I used a rubber gasket and rubber washers on both ends to absorb vibration. The fan is firmly in place!

Onwards to cleaning the cpu waterblock and installation! More pics to come soon!

So I had limited time yesterday before commitments took me away from the project, but I did manage to get the CPU WC Block mounted and removed the NB.

Motherboard removed awaiting my cleaning, removal of air cooling and mounting of WC equip.
Air cooling removed and CPU cleaned up! It is amazing the amount of dust this thing has collected in a year. I clean it with compressed air every month, but look at it... there is a layer of dust on most of the components. This is part of the reason I wanted to go Water! I can reduce the overall air flow in the case and still end up with a very healthy system!
Close-up of the CPU all cleaned up! My god look at the dust on the surrounding parts! UGH!

I then diassembled the CPU block and inserted the water flow splitter, re assembled and poured over a half gallon distilled water heated to boiling and let cool to 60c through the block in order to clean it out. Then I dried the block off cleaned the bottom of the block with alcohol and the CPU again. Applied a little larger then a grain of rice sized thermal compound and attached the block. Initially I put the springs on the bottom because I thought that was going to allow counter pressure to avoide over tightening it, but realized quickly that the springs go on top of the mounting bracket as is shown below:
CPU Waterblock properly mounted
Close-up of CPU Waterblock Look closely and you can see the splitter in the inlet. I mounted it in the orientation I did to allow the water to have to flow into the bottom then back up to the top ensuring both sides would get water flow. I was concerned if I had the outlet on the bottom majority of the flow would go straight to teh bottom and avoid the upper half of the block.

Finally was the removal of the NB and SB.
NB and SB removed I managed to get some of the NB cleaned up, but the south bridge is still waiting.

I cleaned up the NB and SB and ordered a NF4 Rev1.1 for the south bridge. Both Units were EK's from Petra's and I don't know if it was EK or Petra, but lets just say the mounting hardware had an idiot doing it. I mean the screws didn't fit the nuts, the lengths were all wrong. I was left with having to remove them and get new mounting hardware from Ace Hardware. I spent 2hrs getting various screws and bits, some that you will see below for the radiator. So I focused my attention on the GTX. I can not stress enough how careful you have to be with the GTX. I don't think I hurt mine but one quarter of a twist too much and you can see the PCB starting to tweak! Here are some pictures. I refused to use their thermal pads and used the remaining MX-2 I had. Which forced a trip to Microcenter to get some Ceramique for the NB and SB. Anyways on to the pictures.

Full frontal of the EK WB mounted on the GTX
Full frontal of the EK WB mounted on the GTX - No Flash

Closeup of the Extended block covering various chips

One of the reasons I went with EK was that it did not require any of those little coper stick on heatsinks.

Close-up of the Memory on the GTX < Notice the thermal paste just barely coming out.
Otherside of the Memory of the GTX

My next undertaking, mainly becuase it was too earlier to start up the dremel, was the work to be done on the OCZ Memory Cooler and here are the results:

OCZ Memory Cooler On with Flash
OCZ Memory Cooler On without Flash
OCZ Memory Cooler Off without Flash
OCZ Memory Cooler Off side view

OCZ Memory Cooler Mounted

The next project of the day was to drill 4 1.25 inch holes in the upper case and 6 mounting holes for the radiator. Being in downtown chicago I don't have a Home Depot right near me, so I could not find a perfect hole saw, that would have made a 2hr job probably under 15min. So my industrial strength dremel got a work out! Here are the results:

Thermochill 120.3 Radiator Mounted
Thermochill 120.3 Radiator Mounted Side Angle
Thermochill 120.3 Radiator Mounted Side View
Thermochill 120.3 Radiator Mounted Frontal < Should have measured better! Figuring I made a ton of calculations I was not unhappy that I only had one of these mistakes.
Thermochill 120.3 Radiator Mounted Other Side View

I noticed that the shroud left abotu 1/4 inch between the radiator and the shroud on both the front and rear end caps and the flaps on the side. So I purchased some 1000F caulk and filled those gaps. I want all the air flow going through the radiator not around it! I mean that was the whole idea behind buying the shroud, no?

Thermochill 120.3 Radiator Mounted Front End Cap with Gap Filled
Thermochill 120.3 Radiator & Full Shroud Mounted with End Cap Gaps Filled
Thermochill 120.3 Radiator Mounted Rear End Cap with Gap Filled
Thermochill 120.3 Radiator Mounted Rear End Cap

Close-up shots of some of the hardware I used to Mount the Radiator which I purchased during my 2hr trip to Ace Hardware! LOL. Used two 1 inch spacers and a 2.5inch screw. I also used 2 rubber washers 1 on each side of the case in order to absorb vibration, and 2 washers to stiffen the mounting hardware up. Here are two shots of the end results!

Close-up of the Mounted Radiator Hardware
Close-up of the gap between the mount and the actual radiator < At least I didn't screw this calculation up! This one counted! If you screw too far in you pierce your radiator, which would = :(

The Fun part begins... With proper mounting hardware at hand, I begin work on mounting the SB and NB after I cleaned them up for the 2nd time. First time I tried mounting them with hardware that would not even screw into itself or fit properly!

South Bridge Mounted
North Bridge Mounted
Combo of both Moutned
Close-up of the SB Mounted with proper mounting hardware, FINALLY!
Close-up of the NB Mounted
Close-up of the NB Mounting Hardware

Back side of the Motherboard showing all the mounting hardware

I worked for a good hour or two to get the pump angled just right. I ended up making a sleigh that fit both the water pump and the fan controller in one slot. This allowed me more room for the tubes to bend properly up top.

Frontal shot showing fan controller with the water pump mounted
Sideview of the water pump mounted

Final shot of everything plumbed up and ready for water!
Side shot prior to filling
Rear shot prior to filling

Then came I ran 5 gallons of 55c distilled water through the loop to flush any last bits out. Previously I had rinsed everything in near boiling hot distilled, but this was one finally go.
I then got it filled up, which isn't as easy as I thought. Those air bubbles can be a pain to get out. A hint is to make sure you fill the tube leading to your pump. I used a funnel and raised the tube up and filled it with hot water until I had water coming out the back of the loop. Then I inserted the tube in the hot water and turned on the pump. This way I knew the pump was not going to be dry! Here are some shots of the system fully filled working the water bubbles out.

Side view setup for overnight leak testing
Resevoir in action
Another Resevoir Shot
All Good and Ready to go!

One thing I noticed is as I got more and more air out of the lines the pump really showed its power. It forcefully sprays water against the back of the resevoir. When I first started it barely pushed water out of the inlet tube, but as you fill and coax air bubbles out the pressure increases some 50 fold.

The pump is an excellent choice. Dead Silent. I mean I have to put my ear on it in order ot even hear it! Seeing how much water is moving I don't see why you would need more than 1.5 gpm movement. I used a flow calculator to see the approximate flow and I'm right at 1.5gpm. Very happy with it so far. The real test will be tonight when I turn it on for the first time!!!

Do all the parts still work? Did I get good thermal connections? I also want to make sure that all the tubes are not rubbing on the cage or anywhere that may damage them.
The next two posts I'll start the overclocking process so stay tuned! :)

So I had a few glitches as is described in this thread and right now I'm in the middle of running Prime 95, but lets recap all that has gone on.

Upon starting up I was getting an endless rebooting. I tore it down and discovered this on the NB:

Nicely Chipped NB Not sure when this happened or if it was like this before, I'm guessing I did it but not sure how as I've been very careful not to over tighten things!
Another shot of the chipped NB

I re-assemble and MX-2 things and walla my booting problem is gone. YEAH, well sorta... I'll get into that later.

So here are some of the final build pictures. I'm still considering a better spot for the pump 3.5 inch bay for instance.

Nice pic of all the plumbing and fans mounted Alot of stuff in a small case :)
Same Picture with the flash off I really like how the blueish/purple glows through the res and tubes!
Closeup of the CPU Block and the OCZ memory cooler in action
Same picture as above but no flash, again love the color effect
Closeup of the GTX Block
Closeup of the PSU, Pump and plumping from the pump and to the radiator
I've turned my case into an Alien or Demon! You pick!
Great shot of the pump, notice how it is on its side
 
Temperatures measured by Core Temp:


Stock Voltages and Stock Clocks: 2.4Ghz, 800MHzDDR2, 1.2375v CPU, 1.85V Mem
Ambient: 24.2c

@Idle
Core1: 34c
Core2: 34c
GPU: 43c
System: 34c

@Full Load After a full hour of Prime95
Core1: 45c
Core2: 45c
GPU: 44c
System: 34c

Picture of the Prime Results and Idle Temps

3dmark06 results at stock everything: 10354

http://service.futuremark.com/orb/resultanalyzer.jsp?projectType=14&XLID=0&UID=13792138

GPU Max Temp: 47c per NVMonitor



Now to run MemTest86 for an hour or so!
 
Again Reserved for future pictures and walkthrough
 
Nice job dude!!

Component choice is very good, I likey!

I'm interested in seeing how far you can get the CPU OC'ed in the end :D

/subscribed
 
A few more pictures of the progress I made on Saturday. I am getting really close to the testing phase! I have to mount the water pump, NB, SB, and run the tubing and I'm done.

Then I plan to boil 5 gallons of distilled water and let it cool to about 55c and run it through the loop. I've cleaned each part seperately, but I want to make sure I got everything. 5 Gallons should allow for about 3 minutes or so of flushing!

The real fun will be next week when I can begin overclocking the system, including the GTX.
 
Looking good indeed!

Mere suggestion to help the looks a little bit (especially since you are using 2 on top of one another); Maybe cut a chunk of 1/4" wire loom or even a black rubber hose and hide the spacers.
 
Thanks!

Tonight is the real test! Shove everything in the case and see if it all works and what temps I'm getting now!

Note: On the NB and SB I had to use Arctic Ceramique as I ran out of MX-2. I figured it will only mean that 2-3c increase for those parts. I ended up having to mount the CPU twice, and the NB and SB twice so I wasted a lot of paste due to crappy mounting hardware.

I'm so anxious, I should have just taken today off! LOL!

Also I will take an mpeg of the setup with audio. I was AMAZED at how quiet the setup is. I mean wisper quiet. The 1kw PSU is 10x noiser then the entire water cooling setup! Had I known that water pumps were this quiet I would have done water cooling ages ago!
 
Well last night did not go silky smooth. I ended up having to relocate the resevoir because the plumping just wasn't playing nice with it where I had initially planned.

I'm now getting a weird case of you hit the power button and the system begins to power on and then subsequently in about 10-15 seconds powers off. Got it to boot into bios once, and was able to watch the temps which were at 42c. I also got it to boot to windows and was able to check temps in NVmonitor and confirmed the temps seen in bios. This seemed a bit high to me to be that hot at idle. None of the temps ever increased from there unless I shut the fans off then it slowly climbed to 44c.

I've done the following to slowly figure out the issues and I have it down to two areas:

1. Piece by piece connected to the PSU I disconnected items.
2. Unplug water pump. Still resets
3. Unplug Fan Controller. Still resets
4. Remove and unplug GTX. Still resets
5. Unplug Harddrives. Still resets
6. Unplug Case wiring, Lights, Fans, etc. Still resets.

So I've unplugged every dam thing in the system besides the Motherboard.

So where does that leave me?

1. Something on the motherboard is shorting
2. Something on the PSU is shorting
3. The power button is not staying in the on position.

Thoughts and ideas of what to try next.

1. Unscrew the mobo from the case and insert rubber grommets underneath the mobo to give it more lift to see if somehow something is shorting to the case.
2. Jumper the power button
3. Unplug the mobo from the PSU and see if everything else powers on.
4. South bridge inspection. This is a likely candidate as it was not specifically made for the SB and thus has a huge surface area and maybe shorting something across the copper base.
5. Unplug all three blocks from the mobo and inspect. Clean them and re-mount. Which may have to wait until tomorrow because 4 tubes of mx-2 are on the way. I don't use that much as you can tell from the photo's but obviously something is causing issues at the moment.
6. North Bridge Removal and Inspection. Don't know why this would cause any issues as it is damn near identical to the size of the heat pipe I removed.
7. Remove, clean and reseat the cpu.

The case is a bit small with all the wiring jumbled up in there, but unless I accidently cut a psu wire I don't see that being my issue.

Any thoughts or suggestions? I don't get the high temperatures. Case was reporting about 32c.
 
sheesh, bad luck, matey
my money would be on the MB
just RMA-ed my P5K Premium because of a similar problem

p.s. bloody excellent walkthrough there ;)
what TIM did you use with the GTX block? MX-2?
and did you get any temps before the system failure?

cheers :)

EDIT: another thing... is that pump really mounted like that on the pic? http://www.600hpmiata.com/WC/Picture 109.jpg
tut-tut, the pump must always be mounted upright. it can be tilted a bit, but motor and rotor must stay below barbs! ;)
 
Yep temps were 42c cpu, 43c gpu.

I used MX-2 on the GTX and CPU, but ran out and had to use ceramique on the NB and SB.
 
I didn't see you mention anything about the BIOS setting for ignoring the fan speed for the CPU. This is more than likely the issue :)
 
Matti said:
another thing... is that pump really mounted like that on the pic? http://www.600hpmiata.com/WC/Picture 109.jpg
tut-tut, the pump must always be mounted upright. it can be tilted a bit, but motor and rotor must stay below barbs! ;)
Click to expand...

Never heard that. Hmm Will have to look into that. Not sure how I could get it to mount otherwise. Maybe mount it down in the 3.5 bay then.
 
Indignity said:
I didn't see you mention anything about the BIOS setting for ignoring the fan speed for the CPU. This is more than likely the issue :)
Click to expand...

Well that would be odd, considering I was able to get into bios once and fully boot once without makign such a change.

I'll look into that as an additional item to try! Thanks!
 
gpu bios modifications are not necessary ;)
it does not "go crazy" when there's no fan
(which is a shame for peole using aircooling when the fan fails)

and i'll try to find the documentation about the positioning of the pump ;)
 
I'm sorry, I should have been a bit more clear.. I've got a lot of things going on here, so sorry about any confusion.

What I should have said in my post is if you aren't utilizing the fan header on the mobo. I'm not sure of the specific BIOS on the eVGA board, but the ones included(trendmicro I believe) on the ASUS boards i've always had to disable any type of monitoring(ie. CPU Fan Speed) from within the BIOS or the PC would reboot or shut down having not been detected upon POSTing. Entering the BIOS was never a problem though.

Your work and documentation is looking very good, keep it up!!!
 
well i see two spots, one in power management and one in dynamic fan control that could possibly affect this. So I'm going to try them and I'm going to hit evga's site/knowledge base.
 
Well then I think I am ok, because my mounting orientation most closely resembles the 1st picture under the OK section. It basically is just turned on its side versus the standard mount.
 
then I'm done here, good luck with the build ;)
can't wait for my parts to arrive
 
Good luck with your build and thanks for the info I didn't see any of that in the pump box...
 
Well my system is up and running. It is not 100% stable yet as running 3dmark06 locked it up at stock settings last night.

Temps:

Idle:

CPU 41c
GPU 41c
System 33c

100% Load:
CPU 52c
GPU 49c
System 35c

Overall a bit disappointed with the temperatures. I'm not sure if I should lap all the parts or what.

What I had to do last night was tear the entire system down and rebuild.

I tried several things, removing memory, manually jumping the mother board, etc.
Then I disconnected the mobo and everything worked. No shorts etc. So this pointed to something on the mother board.

I drained the system removed the mobo and got to work. Removed the CPU first and noticed a bit of residue on the bottom of the cpu. I'm not sure what from. I cleaned the cpu compressed air the socket and reinserted and reapplied MX-2 and mounted the block.

Next the NB. Well here I was a bit shocked. A very tiny piece of the corner of the chip was cracked off. Its so small I could not tell if it was thermal paste residue or a crack. I do have pictures and will get them up later today. Cleaned it up reapplied MX-2 and remounted.

Next the SB. The one that I thought might be the problem and it looks just fine. Not making contact with any parts around it. Cleaned, reapplied, and remounted.

Filled loop purged air and connected mobo to test for rebooting. No reboots. Great.
Then I reconnected piece by piece. Harddrive, boot up, check temps, etc. Power down, next step.

Add memory, boot up, check temps, etc. Power down.
Add memory cooler, boot up, check temps, etc. Power down.
Add Raid-0, boot up, check temps, etc. Power down.
Manage wiring, boot up, check temps, etc. Power down.
Mount Resevoir, boot up, check temps, etc. Power down.
Close case, boot up, check temps, etc. Power down

I ran 3dmark06 at stock speeds and it locked up on the last test. So something is not 100% yet. I am wondering if I have the block too tight on the GTX. At one point I had some heavy artifactng going on before the process above. I had to remove the GTX and reseat it. I am wondering if the weight of the card is causing stress on the PCI-E slot. Or if I have one of the block screws too tight still. Note after I reseated the card the artifacts never reappeared.

So I have a bit of trouble shooting to run down and slowly eliminate components. Tonight I plan to do the following:

Return CPU and Memory to stock settings.
Mem 386 for a good hour.
Prime95 the CPU for a good hour.
Loosen screws on the GTX and maybe add support to the card to limit stress.
Attach my other GTX which is still air cooled and see if that clears up the locking

The journey continues and progress is being made.

So I still have one overall question why the hell are my temps so HIGH? Would adding in a 2nd pump help?

My setup flow is:

Res>Pump>Rad>CPU>NB>SB>GPU>Res

I mean I know I have a lot of components being cooled but honestly I anticipated the Thermochill PA 120.3 to be adequate. I am running the Low Air flow Yate loons, I'm wondering if swapping those to high flows would help. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

P.S. I will post some pictures tonight of the setup! Oh and I ordered another 20 feet of tubing because I have a feeling I'm going to reroute my pump and res. :) Still trying to figure out the optimum location.
 
Those temps aren't too bad especially on the GPU.. 6C on the delta is actually pretty damned good imho. What are you using to measure your temps with btw?

Maybe give the TIM a couple of days to acclimate? I'm not familiar with the compound you are using, but I noticed about a 4C change after about 3-4 days. Weather or not it was the TIM is beyond me though.
 
I am using NVmonitor. I agree I expect a couple of celsius drop in 2-5 days due to the thermal compound.
 
What are you measuring the CPU temps with?

I'm pretty sure that the only halfway reliable software would be TAT or CoreTemp if you aren't using them. Also, check to see there's not a BIOS update.
 
Updated with some base testing and such! :) Yeah!!!
 
Wow! CPU temps seemed to settle a bit eh??? Probably had a bubble stuck in the block i'd imagine lol.

Very nicely done Sunin!
 
My first report, which i should have included indicated my cpu at 3.519ghz and 1.4v, and when I returned it to 2.4ghz and 1.235v stock it was very cool running!

Also I downloaded the core temp program which is a nice little device to monitor both cores!

I beat the piss out of the cpu and memory yesterday and they showed no signs of instability.

I will post an update and pictures later today about the tests. I got the CPU to post at 3.75ghz, but blue screened after about 20 minutes of Prime95.

Cpu voltage was 1.45v and core temps were at 65-67c, which I thought was pretty high for that voltage. I seem to have very matched cores, as at most the temp is 1c between the two.

At 3.6ghz and 1.4v under full load I saw 60-62c, idles again as I said before at about 40-42c My ambient temps were 2-3c higher then the night before because it was -1c yesterday versus nearly 50 the day before! So I'm sure that has to do with some of the temps. I've been told that 1.6v is the max every day voltage you would want to run and that core temps of 70c or a hair more is the max you would ever want to do.

The question I have is I think I am going to be limited on my overclock by the multipliers available to me. I have 6x to 9x and thus at 3.75GHz it was pushing 416.67 FSB if memory serves me. I've got to run through the tests and see what the max FSB is on the mobo. Set the multiplier to 6x and work the FSB and see where the sweet spots are. A lot of work ahead, but looking back I had a damn good overclock on this cpu with air. I know for a fact that my computer is happier with me now under water, temps do not vary as much as under air and the GPU is soooo much cooler!

I need to work the video card now. Just to make sure it is stable. Then I can start isolating component by component to see what I can tweak out of the system.

On average NV Monitor is showing 5c higher then the Coretemp program. So pretty happy overall with the system! I'm wondering if I could get better clocks if I went naked on the cpu. I have to be losing cooling ability the the IHS.
 
Before de-lidding that CPU, i'd try lapping it & the water block.

Something just doesn't seem right with the temps.

I'm at 3.8GHz @ 1.5v and idle is ~ 38C idle/ ~ 52C load.

Here's a worklog that I started & abandoned due to frustration because of lack of tools to do a proper job if you wanted to see my components.
 
I've gotten my CPU to post at 4ghz. It is by no means stable at that speed though. I was pushing 70c core temps and didn't want to push them above that temp.

In the mean time I'm going to water cool my 2nd GTX and toss it in the loop. Nothing seems to heat up this loop. I mean I can run Vid demos and prime 95 maxing both heat makers and the GPU hits 48c max. Sorry but seeing as that sucker has hit 79c many a time on air... That is nothing. I'm curious to see how adding another big heat maker into the loop will impact things. I am also considering a second pump to be added in and reworking a bit of the plumbing.

Wonder what I can do with twin GTX's at 675/1053 and a 4ghz OC if I can ever get em all to play nicely together!

I do plan to lap the cpu, but will have to hunt down a few good guides on doing it right! Oh and I'm upgrading to a 780i in the mean time. I eventually want to go quad core 45 on the system.

Thoughts, guides, suggestions?
 
This One seems to be pretty concise for the job although I know there's one here, but the search function is disabled again :S ...

Before you get too far, maybe do some reading up on the e8400 CPUs & possibly sell that 6600 to offset the cost a little especially if you are upgrading the board. Can you say 5GHz ????? By the way, you can pick it up at $199 at tankguys ;) .... less power needed=less heat btw
 
Personally I think you need bigger pictures, its only taking 30 seconds per picture to load on my 10MB connection at work.
 
Wow considering they are about 2meg to 2.5 meg each and a 10Mb/s connection should be about 2 seconds to load. Maybe you need to stop downloading 20 porn DVD's while you look at the pictures :)

My 6Mb/s connection 620KB/s loads them in under 5 seconds. /shrug

Also don't bitch... I put links to them, instead of posting the actual picture in the thread! :p
 
Indignity said:
This One seems to be pretty concise for the job although I know there's one here, but the search function is disabled again :S ...

Before you get too far, maybe do some reading up on the e8400 CPUs & possibly sell that 6600 to offset the cost a little especially if you are upgrading the board. Can you say 5GHz ????? By the way, you can pick it up at $199 at tankguys ;) .... less power needed=less heat btw
Click to expand...

I really want to wait for the Quad 45nm's to hit main stream. One of those at 4-4.5 ghz would rock.. hmm maybe I should go for dual on this and keep the quad 45 for my next build.

hmmm... Is there a certain stepping you want on the E8400 I will do a search now :)
 
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