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Waterblock Needed, Please PM or answer

rgathright

n00b
Joined
Oct 26, 2004
Messages
12
I need a water block similar to this one:
2.jpg


Except 3"x2.125"x2" so that I can use it as a cold block for my Peltier setup.
I asked Danger den for one based on their Maze3 just with side posts and they refused to help me.

I want to place a TEC on both sides of this cold block and mount a two waterblocks on top the TEC on either side.

Visit my website and see why I am doing this for if you are curious.
 
if you want answers then don't give us a bunch of sarcasm. Your site doesnt even work anyway :rolleyes:
 
rgathright said:
Great, two posts and no help. Some forum. Here you go (I copied it from my profile):
Fuel Rail Cooling Research

If you want help with your ride, you are in the wrong forum. And yeah, the sarcasm will get you nowhere.

Great, another noob with a dumbass question. See what I mean?
 
PsycoGeek said:
If you want help with your ride, you are in the wrong forum. And yeah, the sarcasm will get you nowhere.

Great, another noob with a dumbass question. See what I mean?

I do not need help with my ride, I need help finding a side exit waterblock.
 
rgathright said:
I do not need help with my ride, I need help finding a side exit waterblock.

Sorry, but it lookes like you want to put a PC watercooling block on the fuel lines in your vehicle (your ride). This is a PC watercooling forum.
 
PsycoGeek said:
Sorry, but it lookes like you want to put a PC watercooling block on the fuel lines in your vehicle (your ride). This is a PC watercooling forum.
No, please reread the page. I have no fuel traveling through the water coolers. I am chilling an antifreeze based solution and circulating it through a copper tubing on the fuel rails. This is something the forum can learn from in exchange I hope to get some help.

My Research Has Found (read the webpage):
1) I have found a $20 effective, water pump you all can use in your computer water cooling. You can buy it at wallyworld and I have had no problems with the Attwood pump yet after over 100 hours of use.
2) I have solved aeration of the water with a T inserted in the cooling lines. Air bubbles get trapped in the T as they travel through the system. I get little aeration which means higher efficiency water cooling.
3) I found that insulating the coolant lines for the water chiller reduces thermal energy loss. Making your CPU or in my case fuel rails colder. To insulate, simply purchase hose with an ID of the OD of the hose you with to insulate. Cut the large hose in a 45 to 65 degree angled cut till you reach the desired length. Now wrap the cut hose around the smaller hose and secure with plastic tie wraps.

I am now ready for a second TEC in order to do this, I need a waterblock with side exit coolant lines.
 
rgathright said:
No, please reread the page. I have no fuel traveling through the water coolers. I am chilling an antifreeze based solution and circulating it through a copper tubing on the fuel rails. This is something the forum can learn from in exchange I hope to get some help.

My Research Has Found (read the webpage):
1) I have found a $20 effective, water pump you all can use in your computer water cooling. You can buy it at wallyworld and I have had no problems with the Attwood pump yet after over 100 hours of use.
2) I have solved aeration of the water with a T inserted in the cooling lines. Air bubbles get trapped in the T as they travel through the system. I get little aeration which means higher efficiency water cooling.
3) I found that insulating the coolant lines for the water chiller reduces thermal energy loss. Making your CPU or in my case fuel rails colder.

I am now ready for a second TEC in order to do this, I need a waterblock with side exit coolant lines.


I never said you were circulating fuel throught the block. Learn to read. I said you are trying to apply PC watercooling to your vehicle's (truck if you can't seem to understand that) fuel lines. Then I said this is a PC watercooling forum.

Now...

1. The pumps we use have to run a LOT longer than 100 hours. Mine has already done double that, and then some. The pumps we use are MADE to run for thousands of hours and longer, without being turned off.

2. Insulating BOTH lines will be bad for us. Mabe the line going to the PC's water blocks, but not the one coming back as that would help to hold the heat in the water... bad for us.
 
PsycoGeek said:
2. Insulating BOTH lines will be bad for us. Mabe the line going to the PC's water blocks, but not the one coming back as that would help to hold the heat in the water... bad for us.
Correct insulating both lines is bad. That is why I use metal connectors on the hot side of my setup. Pictures of this are on my webpage.

What is wrong with posting here? I am using PC watercooling parts and no other forum exists that talks about water cooling fuel lines with peltier devices.

I never once asked you for help cooling the fuel. I only asked for help with a side exit waterblock. If someone wants to help with a side exit waterblock, please post.
 
As I said in my PM back to you, you may have to get it custome made. Expecially if you cannot find one premade.

There is nothing wrong with you posting here, but you seem like you are trying to push us into answering your questions, which won't work. Your attitude is also a little off to be expecting us to help you. Try being nicer and you may get more of a response. Be sarcastic and you won't get anything but grief.

Also, just because you are using PC water cooling parts doesn't mean we will automaticall know how to solve your problems.
 
I think its reasonable for him to be asking this question here based on the fact he is using PC based watercooling parts. If it is inappropriate to be asked here, a mod will move it. If you've got nothing good to add to this thread, quit posting to it.

As for the question, why not make your own. I made one following THIS guide, out of copper. You could probably manage it with a hand drill and a vise if you were careful. You might have a drill press, which makes it easier. As far as materials you could get some from http://www.mcmaster.com
 
rm.o said:
I think its reasonable for him to be asking this question here based on the fact he is using PC based watercooling parts. If it is inappropriate to be asked here, a mod will move it. If you've got nothing good to add to this thread, quit posting to it.

As for the question, why not make your own. I made one following THIS guide, out of copper. You could probably manage it with a hand drill and a vise if you were careful. You might have a drill press, which makes it easier. As far as materials you could get some from http://www.mcmaster.com

Wow, how did you find that guide? I have a full workshop with lathe and press. I am a little concerned about tapping, especially about finding the tool. The link for the metal will help as well! My project has been on a standstill for two weeks now. It is not easy doing custom work like this, people make fun of you and mark you as an easy target (read the posts above, my automotive group gives me the same general response). It is all good because once this works, the nay sayers will be beating my door down for help.

Thanks for the expert help, you are the man, RM.O!
 
rgathright said:
I asked Danger den for one based on their Maze3 just with side posts and they refused to help me.


Saying they refused might be a bit harsh. Heres how they would see your request " Hi , I want you guys to make me a special one off of a block you no longer make. Thanks" Id say Unable to help you rather than refused.
 
killernoodle said:
I thought it is good to have hot fuel, so it atomizes better in the fuel injectors....

He he he, read the discussions about this on my webpage. I even have a dyno graph to prove it! I would have never believed it till I read about it some more. :p

I was playing at a car show and some people saw my mod. We started talking and I wound up opening the hood of a Honda Race car. The dude put his hand on the fuel rails of his own car and he could not keep his hand there for longer than 5 seconds. Point is, the heat causes predetonation... ever hear of pining in your car? Higher octane fuel fixes this by having a higher detonation temperature. If you decrease the temperature of your fuel, you will have a higher detonation temperature, in the long run causing your Fuel injected engine to put more gas into the engine. More gas, longer burn means more HP.
 
[H]ard|Forum > [H]ard|Ware > Overclocking & Cooling > Water Cooling

Technically you're not trying to cool water, however I also don't see any kind of PC specification in the forum name. The project sounds interesting and is definitely related to fluid cooling, so I say it's ok to post here - let's drop that argument.

On topic - as others have said, you'd probably be best making a custom block with high-pressure fittings, which those hose-barbs are not. You'll also want a non-restrictive design, it's not unheard of that tight/narrow bends in fuel rails tend to drop fuel pressure under high flow situations (for example, a bend to connect cylinder bank 1 rail to bank 2 rail.)
Have you considered chilling the air rather than the fuel? It seems that much more could be accomplished by doing this, as the denser air should automatically have the computer send more fuel anyway (I haven't seen what kind of car/fuel management, just assuming it's MAF controlled).

Edit - I thought you would be running fuel through the actual waterblock. Do you intend to do this, or run water through the block and then through copper pipes as you've shown on your website? While adding more complication, flowing the fuel directly through the block would yield much better cooling.
 
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