• Some users have recently had their accounts hijacked. It seems that the now defunct EVGA forums might have compromised your password there and seems many are using the same PW here. We would suggest you UPDATE YOUR PASSWORD and TURN ON 2FA for your account here to further secure it. None of the compromised accounts had 2FA turned on.
    Once you have enabled 2FA, your account will be updated soon to show a badge, letting other members know that you use 2FA to protect your account. This should be beneficial for everyone that uses FSFT.

Waterblock Mounting

D

drizzt81

[H]F Junkie
Joined
Jan 21, 2004
Messages
12,361
Hiho,

I think I need some help on how to properly mount my storm block. I am running an Opty 165 at 2.5 (1.5V) and I am getting really high temperatures in Systool (CPU Diode Temperature of 57-60 C). The 7900GT, which is cooled by a MCW60 never goes above 40 C (at least not during 14 mins of CS:S) and the air coming out of my radiator (MCR220 with two medium panaflow's pushing) is not even warm.

I think that I am improperly seating the storm block, since I am surprised by these high temperatures.

Can you guys give me some hints as to what I should watch for when mounting it? I am using a 'rice-grain' splotch of AS5 and then try my best to get a grip on the block, spacers and screws so that nothing falls around.

should I maybe leave off the nylon spacers between the mounting place and the plastic frame around the CPU?
 
I've read someone else saying that, since Swiftech didn't recommend it, they left the spacers on. But after a similar experience of yours, they took them off.

You can tell the quality of your mount by unmounting the sink and looking at the paste. If it's a very even smear, then you're good. If it's not, then maybe something's not right.

I've also heard of people removing the plastic frame altogether and mounting directly to the mobo. Don't know about that though. Mine's a socket 775 & doesn't have a frame.

Hope that helps.
 
well, i took it off earlier today, twisting the block in order to prevent myself from pulling the CPU from the socket.
The paste was kinda mushed around a bit I guess.

Bottom line: I think it's time to take pictures and leave the spacers off.
 
Hiho all,

I just got around to reseating it without the plastic spacers and my load temperatures are much nicer (looks like 55C now)
 
theseeker said:
Measuring the H20 temp is the only accurate way to measure temps.
Click to expand...
I don't understand what good it would do me to know the water temp? Or would I know that my heat transfer is messed up, if my water is cold, but my CPU super hot?
 
I got rid of the spacers on my Storm. The mounting on a TDX is infinitely better than the Storm's. That's been my only real complaint with the Storm, though.
 
drizzt81 said:
I don't understand what good it would do me to know the water temp? Or would I know that my heat transfer is messed up, if my water is cold, but my CPU super hot?
Click to expand...

I have an in line temp probe before and after my cpu. If you take this approach, you will definately know if your H20 system is working correctly.
 
theseeker said:
I have an in line temp probe before and after my cpu. If you take this approach, you will definately know if your H20 system is working correctly.
Click to expand...
yeah, that is an excellent point, but quite a bit out of my price range at the moment, plus I'd have to reassemble my system.
 
My advice? Drop the plastic backplate. Bolt, nylon spacer, motherboard, nylon spacer, nut (torque it down hard), block. Unless you're doing something very odd, you're not going to ever come close to stressing the PCB beyond the point where it may become a problem.

If you've ever seen an X1900 or any other particularly long, heavy video card, you'd know that PCB is fairly resistant to breaking (the end of my XTX sags nearly 1/2" - way to go, ATi).

There's no easy way to do inline temperature monitoring with 1/2" ID systems, seeker.
 
Use a 1/2" t, mount a temp sensor in it, slather the contraption with silicone sealant, viola! 1/2" inline temp sensor. :)
 
One has to determine a lot of things besides what kind of t-connector and epoxy/sealant to use. How will you monitor the probes? Will you use an expensive battery powered monitor, or an even more expensive A/C monitor, or a drive bay controller? What kind of probes will you use, how will they be wired, what connectors need to be utilized? How accurate do you want them to be, and who are you going to get them from? Will they cause galvanic corrosion with other components, and if so, how much inhibitor must be used?

For the beginner, this can be more than a little confusing.
 
Yeah those temps are way too high for full load. My 170 runnin at 2.6 1.5v runs about 42 full load with my fans set at half with my apogee. I'm running the switftech fans that came with the apex kit. That's also with my 7800GT in the mix as well on the MCW60. Max I've seen so far was about 45 before I turned the AC on. Did you buy your storm used? Maybe it's partially clogged up?
 
hello again,

so I had remounted my HSF a bunch of times, but never got any cooler temps. Even without the nylon spacers

phide said:
My advice? Drop the plastic backplate. Bolt, nylon spacer, motherboard, nylon spacer, nut (torque it down hard), block. Unless you're doing something very odd, you're not going to ever come close to stressing the PCB beyond the point where it may become a problem.
Click to expand...
do I understand you correctly that you are not even using the black plastic rectangular bracket that came with it, which sits around the CPU?

I will remount again tonight and take some pics.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top