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Water wetter?

O

oqvist

[H]F Junkie
Joined
Dec 24, 2001
Messages
8,936
Is it signlificantly better than destilled water?

Also is it safe to use? I don´t got any copper in my loop. Heard it could react with copper but if you don´t got it it shouldn´t be any trouble?

How about bacteria growth and other stuff do I need any additives for water wetter? Also how much better do it cool than water?
 
Water Wetter is an additive which when added yto water lowers surface tension.
This will hopefully give you better cooling.
It also help to pervent corrosion etc.

Luck.......:D
 
Originally posted by Tigerbiten
Water Wetter is an additive which when added yto water lowers surface tension.
This will hopefully give you better cooling.
It also help to pervent corrosion etc.

Luck.......:D
Click to expand...

Cool how much should I use of it and how expensive is it?
 
It works well, but it stinks to high hell:p You can accomplish the same effect by using several ounces of Jet Dry...yeah that stuff you use in the dishwasher. They both break the surface tension of the water making heat transfer through the water more effecient....at less cost, safe to use and less stinky :cool:
 
Originally posted by MajorDomo
It works well, but it stinks to high hell:p You can accomplish the same effect by using several ounces of Jet Dry...yeah that stuff you use in the dishwasher. They both break the surface tension of the water making heat transfer through the water more effecient....at less cost, safe to use and less stinky :cool:
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Hmmm.. I didn't know that. Good to know. Thanks.
 
Water Wetter is nice stuff but it's designed to maintain its utility under extremely high (racing engine) temperatures. A drop of detergent, or maybe that jet dry, would do the same for a lot less money at PC operating temperatures. A drop, mind you, not a squirt.
 
But it's pink. I wish they'd make more manly colors!

Come on, who doesn't like the natural neon-green look of an anti-freeze / water mixture!
 
Originally posted by NoEcho
Water Wetter is nice stuff but it's designed to maintain its utility under extremely high (racing engine) temperatures. A drop of detergent, or maybe that jet dry, would do the same for a lot less money at PC operating temperatures. A drop, mind you, not a squirt.
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A drop like in a drop. What is that 1 ml?
 
Water wetter did nothing for temps in my last loop, and corrosion was not inhibited in the least. The surface tension is also retarted, the water is moving so fast in a loop that it doesnt make a difference.

Just a little heads up from an experienced watercooler. Go for the standard 10 parts water, 1 part antifreeze for corrosion resistance. It will not affect performance.

This is better than doing what they say and end up with severely messed up blocks and radiator.
 
Originally posted by killernoodle


Just a little heads up from an experienced watercooler. Go for the standard 10 parts water, 1 part antifreeze for corrosion resistance. It will not affect performance.
Click to expand...

And it looks cooler :)
 
iv seen loops runnin 50/50 water wetter and 25/75 anti freeze. the loops with 50/50 wetter and distilled water generally get better temps by about 3C and i never seen any corrosion in the blocks/rads.

redline watter wetter prevents corosion and works well to help dissipate heat. redline also reccomends a 50/50 mix for best heat dissipation.


i guess it just goes to what works best for you. exparament! thats the fun of it!

GL!

C
 
The only time I've ever seen any corrosion was when I used a Swiftech block that had a copper base and an aluminum enclosure... even that was a small buildup. With the pure copper systems I've used since then I've never seen any buildup or corrosion. I do not use antifreeze.

Straight distilled water is fine for watercooling. Most of us have copper blocks and copper pipes in the radiator (no matter what the fins are).

Antifreeze is counterproductive unless you're chilling water or waterblock down to freezing temperatures.
 
I found some stuff at the local checker auto parts store yesterday that is pretty much the same thing as watter wetter.

I was actually looking for a corrosion inhibitor and this is what they showed me

Hy-Per Lube Super Coolant
Lowers the surface tension of the coolant allowing it to more deeply penetrate the metal surfaces at vital heat ransfer areas in the cooling system. This allows cooling systems, using a 50/50 mix of anti-freeze and water to run 6-8 f cooler, racing applications running straight water up to 20 f cooler.

it also says that it provides protection from rust corrosion and electolysis in cooling systems using 50/50 water and anti-freeze and in water only systems. Hy-Per Lube contains Molybdate which forms a protective film on aluminum parts. It says that it passes some ASTM D-2570 simulated service corrosion tests.

It was only $7 and some change

I cannot at this time say that this product works though, as I have not added it to my loop yet but I am sure it will do the trick
 
Originally posted by CaNNoN
iv seen loops runnin 50/50 water wetter and 25/75 anti freeze. the loops with 50/50 wetter and distilled water generally get better temps by about 3C and i never seen any corrosion in the blocks/rads.

redline watter wetter prevents corosion and works well to help dissipate heat. redline also reccomends a 50/50 mix for best heat dissipation.


i guess it just goes to what works best for you. exparament! thats the fun of it!

GL!

C
Click to expand...

That is a shitload of water wetter. I can't imagine how much it would cost/smell to fill a system with that mixture. I used 4 ounces per gallon of water, which is approximately what most people recommend. I've never seen anybody use a 50/50 mix though.
 
well inside the loop you dont smell the wetter. it doesnt have a roaming smell. just up close. and redline says that the best heat dissipation is achieved with a 50/50 wetter/water mix.
at 6 bucks a bottle, 12 dollars to run a 50/50 wetter loop. and i have seen it run 3 or so C lower than anything else.

just my experience thats all. do what works best for you and your setup :)

C
 
Originally posted by CaNNoN
well inside the loop you dont smell the wetter. it doesnt have a roaming smell. just up close. and redline says that the best heat dissipation is achieved with a 50/50 wetter/water mix.
at 6 bucks a bottle, 12 dollars to run a 50/50 wetter loop. and i have seen it run 3 or so C lower than anything else.

just my experience thats all. do what works best for you and your setup :)

C
Click to expand...

Keep in mind, water wetter was designed for automotive use. Running a 50/50 mix in a car would probably cost you close to $120, if not more. If I had my bottle in front of me, I'd read off what redline recommends, but I *assure* you it's NOT 50/50.
 
ok, i HAVE my bottle in front of me and it says right there, that the lowest temp in a vehicle was achieved using a 50/50 mix of water and redline water wetter. but for a car radiator they reccomend using 25% glycol antifreeze.

get ur bottle and read the back. 202 degrees F 50/50 compared to 225 F with glycol antifreeze.

:) :)

C
 
Originally posted by CaNNoN
ok, i HAVE my bottle in front of me and it says right there, that the lowest temp in a vehicle was achieved using a 50/50 mix of water and redline water wetter. but for a car radiator they reccomend using 25% glycol antifreeze.

get ur bottle and read the back. 202 degrees F 50/50 compared to 225 F with glycol antifreeze.

:) :)

C
Click to expand...

Reading comprehension > you

The bottle reads, and I quote:
DYNO TEST RESULTS
50% glycol/50% water: 228'F
50/50 + Water Wetter: 220'F
Water Wetter Only: 220'F
Water + Water Wetter: 202'F

[This is not a quote from the bottle, however, a couple things to note at this point. #1, 50/50 + water wetter means 50% antifreeze, 50% water, and then water wetter added in the recommended amount(so it's not actually a 50/50 mix, but it's close). #2, water wetter only refers to watter wetter as the only ADDITIVE, not straight water wetter]

Directions for use: 1 ounce (3-4 capsful) per quart or 1 bottle per automotive cooling system of 12-20 quarts. Less than 50% antifreeze provides further improvement in temperature reduction, but at least 15% antifreeze should be used in street vehicles. Red Line's WATTER WETTER provides excellent corrosion protection for modern cast iron, aluminum and brass systems. Can be used with distilled or tap water. Change cooling system annually for best protection.


And with that, I think the matter is settled.
 
Discussion of ratios of your surface tension reducer aside, the generic term for water wetter or jet dry is.......surfactant

Both of the above contain some form of a surfactant, and as you all know by this discussion reduces surface tension of water.

Personally in my chilled water set-up I have a 75:25 mix of RO Water and Dexcool, with a little bit of redline water wetter.

Works really well in my race car too :D

For dishes, surfactants are used to sheet rinse water off, so no water beads, thus no hard water spots on your fine china.

Same deal commercial paint pretreatment systems. Surfactants are added to sheet water off whatever widget you are rinsing (cleaning) prior to paint. Once again the reduced surface tension, means no water beads. Water beads may contain small particles of debris, thus ruining a class A paint job.

In cars engines, the reduced surface tension theory is that the coolant will find every little nook and cranny inside the cylinder head castings, asborb more heat, thus no hot spots.

If you watch the Daytona race(s), you'll most likely see a marketing blitz for a product called Auto Dry Car Wash..... No more wiping your car off after using their product..... Guess what they packaged in that? You already know the answer. :)


There's way more to this, and I'm not a chemist, but the above is the reader's digest version, and hopefully helps. Once upon a time I was a paint system engineer:rolleyes:

2b
 
connectowned.jpg


Sorry, had to do it. BTW water wetter doesn't mention anything about protecting copper from corrosion, so wouldn't it not be a good additive to use without antifreeze?
 
Originally posted by MasiveMunkey

Sorry, had to do it. BTW water wetter doesn't mention anything about protecting copper from corrosion, so wouldn't it not be a good additive to use without antifreeze?
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Well, brass is a copper alloy, so I would imagine it would protect copper from corrosion as well.
 
One of the problems with running a system with both copper and aluminum is the electrolysis effect. By putting a piece of nickel in the system it neutralizes the electron transfer between the 2 metals.
 
Originally posted by Spidey329
But it's pink. I wish they'd make more manly colors!

Come on, who doesn't like the natural neon-green look of an anti-freeze / water mixture!
Click to expand...

What about using dye or food coloring? that won't work ?
 
Originally posted by 133
What about using dye or food coloring? that won't work ?
Click to expand...

Sure it will, as long as you don't put all that much water wetter in, you should be able to get a decent colour with some dye-lite or food colouring. However, you'll get a mix between pink/purple and whatever colour you put in.

Edit: On that note, I believe Royal Purple makes a similar product to water wetter which is, appropriately, roayl purple in colour, if you like purple.
 
The Hy-Per Lube stuff I had mentioned in the thread earlier says its protects from electrolysis.

Link

prod_cool.gif
 
Originally posted by thezfunk
One of the problems with running a system with both copper and aluminum is the electrolysis effect. By putting a piece of nickel in the system it neutralizes the electron transfer between the 2 metals.
Click to expand...

Nickel does not neutralize anything, it just causes another reaction to take place.
 
Thats what I was trying to say. By causing another reaction it prevents or neutralizes the other reaction.
 
Originally posted by thezfunk
Thats what I was trying to say. By causing another reaction it prevents or neutralizes the other reaction.
Click to expand...

Yes, but if you look at a chart of the galvanic series, you'll see that nickel is lower than copper, with aluminum being up toward the top. That means that The Al-Ni couple will probably corrode even faster than the Al-Cu couple. You'll still get corroded Al parts and maybe even chunky water.
 
Originally posted by zer0signal667
Yes, but if you look at a chart of the galvanic series, you'll see that nickel is lower than copper, with aluminum being up toward the top. That means that The Al-Ni couple will probably corrode even faster than the Al-Cu couple. You'll still get corroded Al parts and maybe even chunky water.
Click to expand...

The nickel will act as a sacrificial anode, you'll have to replace it every once in a while. The aluminum won't corrode.
 
Originally posted by Spewn
The nickel will act as a sacrificial anode, you'll have to replace it every once in a while. The aluminum won't corrode.
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No, the more electronegative metal corrodes, which is aluminum. Even if it was the nickel that corroded, would you want bits of nickel oxide and other nasty compounds floating in your water?
 
So guys whats the solution. I am building a water chiller made out of aluminum with a copper water block and I need a solution. One guy either in this post or another was talking about putting silver nitrate in the system to react with the copper and coat it. Silver being a good conductor won't hurt your heat transfer and it will insulate the copper preventing reaction between aluminum and copper. Will this work or is there another solution?
 
Originally posted by thezfunk
So guys whats the solution. I am building a water chiller made out of aluminum with a copper water block and I need a solution. One guy either in this post or another was talking about putting silver nitrate in the system to react with the copper and coat it. Silver being a good conductor won't hurt your heat transfer and it will insulate the copper preventing reaction between aluminum and copper. Will this work or is there another solution?
Click to expand...

I used hyper-lube when I had an aluminum block with a copper radiator. It does a decent job at preventing galvanic corrosion but can also react with some plastics like lexan and cause cracking.

Antifreeze is probably going to be the best solution for your chiller. You only want to add as much antifreeze as it will take to keep ice from forming. A 20/80 mix of antifreeze/water will give about a 7% cooling performance hit.
 
Yeah but i personally know someone who uses antifreeze and it didn't do jack for stopping corrosion.
 
Originally posted by zer0signal667
No, the more electronegative metal corrodes, which is aluminum. Even if it was the nickel that corroded, would you want bits of nickel oxide and other nasty compounds floating in your water?
Click to expand...

Zinc or magnesium would work. The corrosion would happen so slowly, that you could probably change out the metal every couple of weeks without incident.
 
actually i think anti-freeze promotes corrosion because you have to flush out the radiator in your car with water, whenever you change antifreeze.
 
Originally posted by mewannafastpc
actually i think anti-freeze promotes corrosion because you have to flush out the radiator in your car with water, whenever you change antifreeze.
Click to expand...

You don't *have* to do that. However, part of why it's strongly recommended is because antifreeze can't 100% STOP corrosion, so they recommend you flush your system of all the old antifreeze and make sure you get out any dissolved up metals. If you were to run a computer cooling system with aluminum and copper however, you can buy specialty antifreeze that's designed to stop corrosion in cars running aluminum radiators.
 
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