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water cooling system.

T

Teknokid

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Feb 17, 2007
Messages
1,292
Im looking into a new one, after all myn is a cheap Tt kit and i want a pucka kit.
this is what i have so far:
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=3390&cat=0&page=
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=3144&cat=545&page=1
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=2381&cat=537&page=1
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=2737&cat=550&page=1


Which tubing... what lengths would it be?
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=2737&cat=550&page=1
and which of these fasterners?
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/home.php?cat=565
looking to buy in a few mothes, want to refine first and save up a bit more :D
btw i already have this: http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=2971&cat=541&page=1 with 6x 120mm fans.
 
1/2" barbs = 1/2" tubing!? i want 1/2" but what clamps. anything i should change in the plan?
 
1/2" = 8/16" the smaller tubing he was refering to (7/16") is only slightly smaller. it requires you to heat up the ends in hot water before you put them on so that they expand, the advantage of this is when they cool, it creates an extremly water tight fit, often requiring no hose clamps.
 
hold up- major problem... you got an aluminum resevoir and a copper water block. search the forum for galvanic corrosion for more info, but basicly the aluminum will break down over time and clog your loop. if your going to use aluminum components you have to get aluminum everything.
 
well it is anodized which *should* prevent it the corosion but i would never take the chance. all it takes is a little tiny ding or nick in the finish to expose some bare metal to start the reaction.

those EK multioption res' should work, the alphacool (clear ones, top of page) have aluminum ends so they are no good. if you can get it from elsewhere, danger den makes some nice 100% acrilic (plastic) resevoirs. anything that doesnt use any aluminum will work.
 
so basically none from there would work? ill have a look round but apart from alphacool and whats on there theres not much more i can get in the uk :( are the EK blocks i chose ok and what clamps?
 
ok. heres a few questions:
1). which tubing should i get from that site?
2). what fluid (i dont really want to mix my own, again from that site)?
3). Anything recomended for change? im open to suggestons.
 
Teknokid said:
ok. heres a few questions:
1). which tubing should i get from that site?
2). what fluid (i dont really want to mix my own, again from that site)?
3). Anything recomended for change? im open to suggestons.
Click to expand...

Rather than paying about 5lbs per foot of tubing... Can I recommend you do an order from petras or Jab-tech (whoever has the tubing in stock) for some Masterkleer tubing? It's about .30lbs per foot. It's better than anything that store has for sale, and it's really cheap. Get at least 10ft of tubing.

The EK res Linky should work fine (no aluminum).

As for fluid... what colour you looking for? Stay away from Fluid XP.
 
what about D-den tube? i just want fluid i guess. uv if possible. any ideas. UK only :(
 
Few things. One, Swiftech MCRES-Micro is amazing. Quiet, Small, no air bubles get through. NO ALUMINIUM. = PERFECT!

Fluid. Keep your system all copper and acrylic and then u can just use distilled with a drop or two of algecide. Otherwise, I'd greatly recomend making your own. You will get better performance. Just grab some antifreeze like pentosize and mix in a bit.

Tubing. While I hate the US's unit system, I hate having to convert it all. Keep all your fittings 1/2" and use 7/16" tubing over the fittings. It is watertight without clamps. MasterKleer if very good tubing.

Btw, if you want looks, disregard everything I say. I work for power first, then looks, not the other way around. Oh, and you might want to pick up a regular Apogee block or a Fuzion. I don't really know so much about the EK Cpu blocks...

If you are that worried about res size, see if you can get the MCRes-Micro like performance-pcs.com sells it, with the G1/4" thread at the top, because then you can hook this res up to a fillport (or just a verticle tube full of water).
 
thanks. i want the fluid stated above for the fact that its UV :D
the tubing: i will be upgrading and draining rather a lot (my hobby is rebuilding my pc every month or 2.) so ill use 1/2" with clamps so i can remove them so how many mm outer diameter is 1/2"?
thanks
 
Technokid, whenever you take off the tube and reconnect it, it will never seal as well as the first time. Sorry to tell you.
 
most people, like me, slice the side of the tube right down the side of the barb and twist it off, then just recut the end about 1" up, aslong as you dont cut them super short the first time you can do this several times before you need a whole new piece.
 
well i like to leave them long :) soo 1/2" plus clamps? still no recomendations on those?
 
I remove and reuse my masterkleer tubing over and over again...

The first time you take it off, just pull while moving the tube in a 360' circle.
 
I have an alu res (not anodized) and a copper CPU block and an Alu Rad, never had any galvanic corrosion at all in the 24 months it been set up and I've never once changed my fluid plainly due to lazyness. I guess I'm just lucky :)

Just thought I'd chuck that in there.

OK Tubing wise if you can afford Tygon then get it expensive but does make those tight bends easily with no kinking, if not the DD stuff is also quite good as is the Materkleer. I use worm drive hose clips (jubilee clips) on mine with no adverse effects.

Fluid meh each to their own, Distilled water with an inhibiter, tec-protect or Fluid XP EXT (newer version) heard good about all of them, heard bad about all of them. You are ALWAYS going to get conflicting responses depending on peoples own experience with different products.
 
woah, don't take it as a given that it's not going to happen as there is no denying the laws of Physics / Chemistry about corrosion.... :D Just thought I'd say that before you blame me if anything goes wrong.

But yes I have had this set up for 2 years and no corrosion issues.
 
I wish I had taken pictures of the aquatube I had to clean up last week.

I'll never mix metals.

Ever.
 
well seen as its a rad, and u cant exactly get a copper rad nor can you get copper barbs!!
 
Teknokid said:
well seen as its a rad, and u cant exactly get a copper rad nor can you get copper barbs!!
Click to expand...

Black ice, swiftech, coolingworks and Thermochill radiators are all copper.

Brass, plastic or nickel coated barbs are all close enough to copper on the Galvanic index that they won't do any damage (well, they will, but it would take hundreds of years).
 
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