Was your Rebate wrongly Rejected?

[nilepez]

I sent off my rebate for an EVGA GTX260 a few weeks ago to the rebate house in TX (Parago).

Today I got an email where they claimed that I didn't include the UPC/Serial Number.

Fact: I always staple these things directly to the rebate form
Fact: I have a photo Copy (both in color and B/W) of the rebate form and the UPC/SerNum
is attached to the form.

I wrote back stating the facts and how implausible their claim was. And followed up with a similar email to eVga. in both cases I made sure they understood that I would contact the AG for my state, TX and CA.

I got a response from Parago saying they were sorry, but they didn't get it.

I then requested they send me pictures or scans of my form that is missing this data was sent in, noting that it seemed hard to believe that 2-3 staples could have accidentally fallen when they pulled it out of the envelope, but that perhaps I was misunderstanding what they were looking for.

I then got a response saying that my status had been changed to valid.

This is only the 2nd time I've ever had a rebate house try to weasel (and I do call them weasels) out of paying me. And in both cases, it was quickly resolved in my favor.

The key is always have photo copies of what you sent in.

A rebate house tried to claim my mother hadn't sent in the documents for one of her AV rebates....an email to Symantec yielded an profuse apology and the rebate.

Don't back down and if you have to write a few letters to the various AGs, do it. I have no problem with the hassles of Rebate forms (though I hate cutting up my boxes), but i do have a problem when they try to steal from me.

Thanks for listening to my rant...if it helps others get their rebates back, then all the better.

 

[pxc]

Srsly, all you have to do 90% of the time when there is a problem is call. They usually fix it on the spot without you needing to make a big production out of it. An email or phone grunt isn't going to take your FTC/AG threats seriously anyways.

I've probably sent in a few hundred rebates over the past 10 years and fixing most problems is really simple. Sometimes they make mistakes and they realize that.

 

[nilepez]

pxc, in every case that this has happened, they claim what I'm telling them is not true. In each case, without documentation, they mysteriously find the lost documentation, that was permanently attached to the rebate form.

As for calling them, i didn't have a number to call, only an email address to respond to.

 

[w1retap]

I've had nearly the same thing happen with the EVGA 260 rebate. I was doing a build for a client and sending the rebates in for him. I've been doing rebates for over a decade, and I know 100% for a fact I did it correctly. Anyway, a week or two later I got the email and card in the mail that said it couldn't be processed due to an incorrect UPC. Anyway, I called the 800 number and they straightened everything out. The check should be here soon.

 

[BBA]

They have one purpose...to save money. If you think they are not doing that on purpose, you are fooling yourself. Yes, you should contact your state offices to report the fraud if you have documentation disproving their denial claims. Even after they pay, you should file a complaint with your state.

The rebate processing company is counting on certain percentages of people who will do nothing about not getting their rebate checks, after all, it's income they get if they do not process and pay your claim.

 

[Socrilles17]

I agree with PXC, a simple call will almost always fix a problem with a rebate, however there is a handful of rebate companies you should just avoid, one of these is antec, I forget the others, I think sapphire/Diamond are notoriously bad

 

[vsboxerboy]

Yeah, I try to shy away from MIRs in general. If you mistakenly only look at the AR price when looking at something it's an interest free loan that you're giving with SOME percent chance that it will not be returned. If it's not a good deal without the MIR, it's not a good deal with the MIR.

That being said, I've never had a MIR fail to be returned to me and I always make photocopies before I send it in.

 

[pxc]

pxc, in every case that this has happened, they claim what I'm telling them is not true. In each case, without documentation, they mysteriously find the lost documentation, that was permanently attached to the rebate form.

As for calling them, i didn't have a number to call, only an email address to respond to.

This took me one minute to find: 888-295-7778 I'm going to have to go with being hostile to them isn't helping you. Somehow you believe that "helps" but I'm telling you that it really doesn't. They can very often fix it on the spot with a call (sometimes they have you read the UPC number), or they may ask for a resubmission by email, fax or mail. These things are being processed by people and they can make mistakes.

Maybe someone doesn't like having to dig out multiple staples before scanning in the forms (yes, they do scan at the processing center, and then discard the originals). I use tape to affix the UPC. <-- protip

 

[pxc]

however there is a handful of rebate companies you should just avoid, one of these is antec, I forget the others, I think sapphire/Diamond are notoriously bad

Antec used CPG, the company that just declared bankruptcy over a week ago. I sent in 9 Antec rebates in the past year for PSUs, fans, cases and paste. Other than the last one, all were paid. I'm dealing with Antec directly with one now since CPG is no longer handling it.

DiamondMM is a huge mess and they seem to handle the rebate processing themselves. You *will* have to follow up using the online request form or you will not get a check. I did 2 DiamondMM rebates this year and after I did the online request, I got checks 2-3 weeks later. They are off my buy list if there is a rebate involved.

I don't like Sapphire cards so I don't buy those. But I alse see lots of complaints about their rebates.

 

[vbrtrmn]

The problem with MIRs is it comes down to how much your time is worth. If they reject your rebate, how many hours is it worth to you to try to get the situation straightened out. It is all person to person and the MIR houses know this. I used to do a crap load of MIRs, but now I steer clear of them, because they're generally a hassle.

 

[aShrubbery!]

If it's a decent amount of money you're claiming back, make sure you send all your stuff like the OP said (stapled, keeping copies of the forms and all), and then SEND IT REGISTERED!

Make the MIR processing companies sign for it at delivery. That should contain the damage to a minimum.

On a side note, when I sent my claim for an MIR with EVGA, I received the cheque in a little less than a month. Amazing. But maybe they changed the companies they worked with.

 

[Vashypooh]

If I recall correctly, I think there is an EVGA rep around here that fixes this crap almost instantly as well. I dont remember his name tho =(

 

[nilepez]

This took me one minute to find: 888-295-7778 I'm going to have to go with being hostile to them isn't helping you. Somehow you believe that "helps" but I'm telling you that it really doesn't. They can very often fix it on the spot with a call (sometimes they have you read the UPC number), or they may ask for a resubmission by email, fax or mail. These things are being processed by people and they can make mistakes.

Maybe someone doesn't like having to dig out multiple staples before scanning in the forms (yes, they do scan at the processing center, and then discard the originals). I use tape to affix the UPC. <-- protip

Why exactly would they have to dig out the staples? They didn't cover the S/N or UPC, and as it was attached, they would only have to scan the rebate form and the receipt.

No different than tape.

I'd buy into the entire accident thing, if they'd come back and said they made a mistake after the first email, or if they'd given instructions on how to rectify the situation after the first email (or better still when they sent the original email), but that's not what htey did.

What they said was, we didn't get it and the implication was, "sorry bud, but you fucked up you lose."

If they scanned what I sent in, they already had a scan of the UPC.

My gut tells me that rebate houses have a vested interest in not paying out rebates.

As for your finding hte number, the point was that they didn't include a phone number with the original email. Search for email or hit reply......I took the path of least resistance.

 

[elleana]

They have one purpose...to save money. If you think they are not doing that on purpose, you are fooling yourself. Yes, you should contact your state offices to report the fraud if you have documentation disproving their denial claims. Even after they pay, you should file a complaint with your state.

The rebate processing company is counting on certain percentages of people who will do nothing about not getting their rebate checks, after all, it's income they get if they do not process and pay your claim.

This. They probably randomly deny claims just for fun, and hope you go away. If you come back and bitch it'll probably mysteriously get fixed.

 

[motolube]

I had a similar problem with OCZ once, I had 2 MiR, one for about 6 dollars and another for 40, surprisingly enough I received a letter stating that the one for 40 bucks was rejected for some stupid thing.

I also make copies of everything I sent and I told them on the phone I had copies of what I had done, inmediately after putting me on hold for about 5 minutes, they came back to tell me that it had been resolved and the check would be on its way... go figure.

Now, I have a similar problem and I don't know if this is the correct forum to post this but I will try anyway.

Have any of you ever receive a letter from your bank stating that one of your MiR checks have been returned unpaid?

I bought an Antec laptop cooler that had a $ 15.00 MiR and after waiting for it almost 8 weeks, I deposited the check on my account. Today I see my mail (mail came yesterday) and I got a notification that the check came back unpaid.

Well, it has been a while since I have gotten a check comeback to me and I was wondering if this is something normal for Big Companies to do and what is my recourse now.

Anybody has opinions on this?

The check was from:
STEARNS BANK
N.A. AZ
SCOTTSDALE, AZ.

It says VOID AFTER 01/27/2009, I deposit it on the 20th of Novemeber, it seems they made on 10/29/2008... why it took so long to get to me is beyond me.

 

[nilepez]

Motolube, you should contact Antec. As I understand it, Antec used the company that just declared bankruptcy. I'd contact them and ask them to make good on the check (and any fees your bank may have charged you for the bounced check).

Antec has solid CS, so I suspect they'll take care of you for the rebate, but I'm less certain they'll cover you if your bank charged you anything for the bounced rebate check.

 

[BaronBamboo]

Hmm I never got a rebate back fro my corsair PSU. I photcopied the UPC codes but should I try and contact a rep? I bought this thing in April, so it's safe to assume they rejected it?

 

[SEALTeamSix]

I know it may not be entirely realistic, but it is better to not financially support rebate deals (as much as possible), and just get items without rebates instead. If companies saw that people were only jumping on non-rebate deals, they may move away from rebates and just offer straight-up deals instead.

 

[Mav451]

Hmm I never got a rebate back fro my corsair PSU. I photcopied the UPC codes but should I try and contact a rep? I bought this thing in April, so it's safe to assume they rejected it?

I've got two of my Corsair rebates within 3 months (first PSU, then DDR2 RAM). I'm guessing you weren't actively following it via rebatestatus were you?

PM RedBeard should get a quick response, otherwise a quick email should also take care of things anyway.

 

[BaronBamboo]

I've got two of my Corsair rebates within 3 months (first PSU, then DDR2 RAM). I'm guessing you weren't actively following it via rebatestatus were you?

PM RedBeard should get a quick response, otherwise a quick email should also take care of things anyway.

No I wasn't following. I bought some RAM from A-Data right around the time I bought the PSU, and yet I got my rebate from them (so I assumed Corsair would send it)

Yeah I'll pm redbeard, thanks

 

[techminster]

I haven't had any problems with it lately tough I know they can be a bit effy