w00t! Abit P35-E

MrGuvernment said:
IP35 board dont like some pc2-800 ram, you need to yo the voltage to 1.9 or high and it works fine, found this out on my abit 35 and some ocz 6400
Click to expand...

eh? Mine run at 2.1V+? I'm confused why this board needs lower powered ram
 
what cooling are you all using, or recommend, my artic cooler barely keep it under 60C @ 3ghz with no voltage increase :(
 
is there any way to control fans that are connected to the mobos 3 pin connectors/headers?
 
MrGuvernment said:
what cooling are you all using, or recommend, my artic cooler barely keep it under 60C @ 3ghz with no voltage increase :(
Click to expand...

if price isn't an issue and you want to stick with air, TR-120X is the best air cooler out there at the moment. paired with a quiet fan, its an great setup. or you could go water but thats another subject ;)

antok86 said:
is there any way to control fans that are connected to the mobos 3 pin connectors/headers?
Click to expand...

the only fan headers that can be controlled via bios are SYSFAN1 and CPUFAN1.

in bios go to: PC Health Status >>> Abit FanEQ Control and do the following to your liking (i posted this at XS and just copy/paste it here :)) :

first off, if your using a fan with a 4pin header then leave the setting "CPU FAN Type" at default (4pin) otherwise change it to 3pin.

FanEQ Target Temp is just that, what temp do you want the fan to start kicking in, ie. i set mine to 45C.

FanEQ Temp. Tolerance is range around the Target Temp, ie. mine is set to 5C. so within 5C of 45C, the fan will start to spin faster and once temp reaches 45C, fan will be spinning its max depend on the Start Control setting.

FanEQ Start Control is what % of the fan you want it to spin at when it reaches the Target Temp, ie. mine is set to 100%

FanEQ Stop Control is what % of the fan you want it to spin when its out of the Tolerance range, ie. min is set to 60%. so when you setting idle, your fans are spinning slower = less noise.

fyi: i have a low speed yate loon as my cpu fan.

the manual doesn't do a good job of explaining it so i hope this helps.
Click to expand...

these were when i was still using bios 11 and when i updated to beta 13, i had to adjust the temp settings accordingly since beta 13 cpu temp now reads actual core temp. just play around with the settings till you find one you like.
 
I placed my order today along with the Thermalright 120 eXtreme heatsink. Oh and I got the HX620 despite the price because I knew if I got the 520 I'd have even more buyers remorse.

I was spending so fast that my credit card company blocked my last transaction with newegg because they had placed a fraud alert on my card. I had to call and have it released lol.
 
Best budget overclocking board by far. Easy and simple to setup and overclock. I updated to the beta 14 bios and the double boot issue is gone.
 
Whats the whole deal with the double boot thing I keep reading about? Also does this board let you save multiple BIOS set ups?
 
i got the 620 corsair myself, i now have 6 drives, 7600GT and my 4400 @ 3ghz (need better cooler) and 2gz OCZ gold 1g x 2 pc2 6400 and power seems stable so far

the 6 drives are

2 x 160g Segate perps in raid 0 (promise tx4310 nothing special)
2 x 250g segate perps in raid 1 (promise tx4310 nothing special)
1 x 500g segate perp drive for files
1 x 250g segate perp for main OS / apps
 
I'm one of those users that doesn't have a need for that much space.

I have my OS and Apps on a 74GB Raptor and my storage drive is a WD2500KS
 
Glow said:
Whats the whole deal with the double boot thing I keep reading about? Also does this board let you save multiple BIOS set ups?
Click to expand...

double boot is when you turn on the computer it goes on then off then on again and boots like normal. some people can live with it others are annoyed of it. beta 14 bios fixes this issue if you don't cut psu power from the wall.

if you talking about CMOS reloaded type thing, then no, this board doesn't have that type of feature.
 
I love my IP35-E! I overclocked my E6420 to 3.6 orthos stable max load 58c and it was so easy, only annoying thing is the vDroop :( And I don't feel like soldering my board to fix it... Just have to compensate for it :D Personally I don't care about the dual boot but I'm glad to know that if it ever does annoy me I can do a BIOS flash and fix it :cool:
 
abiteq/BIOS
Not all headers are controllable on the cheaper boards though whereas the Pro will control something like 5 headers.
 
antok86 said:
lol so not the Abit P35-E ?? jus pro can be controlled?
Click to expand...

read my post a few up, i explain how to setup FanEQ in bios. all of Abit's IP35 series boards can have temp controlled fan setup in bios, just the Pro has more options for them and has uGuru.

BUFF was explaining to another person about bios profiles and that the Pro is the only that has that feature.
 
anything not bios based? i want something i can control on windows..not something that is automatic.
 
you can use FanEQ in windows. it allows you to control your fans just like in bios but in windows.
 
I dunno how much difference the solid state capacitors really make but I got the Vanilla myself and am loving it.
 
Rather than start another thread, I'm gonna ask a few quick questions about this board here if no one minds (I just ordered one today)

1. Will this board be compatible with 2.0v RAM (specifically http://shop3.outpost.com/product/52...bxG9j2Hxg**.node2?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG)
or will I first have to boot with some other RAM and manually adjust the voltage up to 2.0, or will it just not work at all

2. If my power supply doesn't have an 8 pin adapter, where should I plug in the 4 pin connector, should I buy an adapter, or buy a new power supply (was going to hold off until I get a quad around jan)

3. Have people been able to take E6300's up to 400fsb? <-- gonna search the OC subform for this now

4. Do I need to plug into the additional power connector under the 16x pcie lane? if no when would I need to.

5. Is it a pita to install/remove RAM with a video card in (the tabs on my current board rest right next to the VGA card, requiring me to either bend it or remove it to remove the ram)

6. Is the beta bios that removes the double boot issue stable or should I wait to upgrade?

I think thats it for now, except for the ram and mb (obviously) the specs in the sig are going to be recycled. (I really just hate my DG965WH...so restrictive)
 
I can answer a few of these. I own the p35-e and it is the second best board I have owned,the first is my MAX 3 by Abit.

1= It will work with the 2.0 ram the bios has SPD turned on by default.
2= don't know about the 4pin but the Corsair PSUs are very good and affordable.
3=depends on your 6300 that 7x multi is the suspect but I have a 2140 @ 420fsb it has a 8x multi and a 6750 above 400. 400+ is no problem with this board.
4= didn't plug mine in, hell I didn't even know that was there, I need to find out what that is for possibly pcie 2.0?
5= I dont know about a pita but they do rest on the card
6= very stable and it does get rid of the double boot

hope this helps
 
The ATX4P1 is generally there to allow extra power to the PCI-E bus - I honestly don't know why the IP35/IP35-E have it fitted though as I can't imagine it ever being necessary.
The IP35 Pro possibly may need it if running 2 power hungry top end gfx cards.
 
Well it appears my onboard LAN just up and died on my IP35-E. All I did was reboot into bios to check some settings, didn't change a thing, and when I got into windows I found I was without a Network device. Reinstalling drivers did nothing and device manager sees nothing. :(

Luckly, I have a dusty old PCI network card laying around so I guess that helps. Just wondered what would cause the onboard LAN just up and die all of a sudden.
 
KamelRed said:
Well it appears my onboard LAN just up and died on my IP35-E. All I did was reboot into bios to check some settings, didn't change a thing, and when I got into windows I found I was without a Network device. Reinstalling drivers did nothing and device manager sees nothing. :(

Luckly, I have a dusty old PCI network card laying around so I guess that helps. Just wondered what would cause the onboard LAN just up and die all of a sudden.
Click to expand...

O/Cing can cause that, drop back to stock and see if it reappears.
 
vsboxerboy said:
Rather than start another thread, I'm gonna ask a few quick questions about this board here if no one minds (I just ordered one today)

1. Will this board be compatible with 2.0v RAM
3. Have people been able to take E6300's up to 400fsb? <-- gonna search the OC subform for this now6. Is the beta bios that removes the double boot issue stable or should I wait to upgrade?
Click to expand...

I have some OCZ Reaper (2.1v I believe) and it doesn't work on first boot I have to stick in some 1.8v stuff and change the voltage manually, this is a known problem on the abit forums and everybody seems to be doing the same thing I do...if they have a problem. That being said your patriot may work check the forums I'm sure someone is using it.

I have a 6320 up to 450x7 (my ram is holding me back now,) so if your processor can handle it so can the board. I couldn't OC at all though with the stock BIOS I had to upgrade to the beta 1.3 to get results but once I did I went from wanting to get rid of the board to it now being one of my favorites, in other words I would definitely say it is stable :)
 
zombiebeat said:
O/Cing can cause that, drop back to stock and see if it reappears.
Click to expand...

That was the first thing I did, no luck there. The USB ports on the same "section" of the onboard LAN work just fine so its not a major loss. Short of reinstalling the OS I'm pretty much out of options.

EDIT: Got it working again. I not sure which step it was because I first downloaded the LAN drivers from Abit (incase the ones on the motherboard CD were older) and selected repair. I then flashed to the beta bios 14 (flashed from bios ID 11) and loaded optimized defaults, reset my overclocks and viola! working LAN again. Perhaps a cleared CMOS might have fixed it in the first place but who knows, its working now and hopefully its stays that way. :)
 
KamelRed said:
That was the first thing I did, no luck there. The USB ports on the same "section" of the onboard LAN work just fine so its not a major loss. Short of reinstalling the OS I'm pretty much out of options.

EDIT: Got it working again. I not sure which step it was because I first downloaded the LAN drivers from Abit (incase the ones on the motherboard CD were older) and selected repair. I then flashed to the beta bios 14 (flashed from bios ID 11) and loaded optimized defaults, reset my overclocks and viola! working LAN again. Perhaps a cleared CMOS might have fixed it in the first place but who knows, its working now and hopefully its stays that way. :)
Click to expand...

Ahhh good stuff and good to know there's a fix :)
 
I completed my build with this motherboard this weekend. I can attest that the dual boot does exist and it scared me. I had forgotten about it when I pressed the power button for the first time. Things started spinning, I think I heard the lovely single beep then, DOH, it turned off :eek: noooo! A second or two later, beep boop zoom, it booted right up lol.

I still call it the first try :)
 
CRXican said:
I completed my build with this motherboard this weekend. I can attest that the dual boot does exist and it scared me. I had forgotten about it when I pressed the power button for the first time. Things started spinning, I think I heard the lovely single beep then, DOH, it turned off :eek: noooo! A second or two later, beep boop zoom, it booted right up lol.

I still call it the first try :)
Click to expand...

I don't think they can stop that initial back from cleared CMOS double boot, but at least it stops the "I just turned it off why is it booting twice" problem :D
 
Glow said:
Any of you guys running firestix in one? On xtremesystems they seem to sound like this boards like the old DFIs where they are picky for certain ram but I hardly think my Micron D9 Firestix are bad, do they run in this thing?

Also any of you guys have a GIGABYTE GA-P35-DS3L before and if so why did you switch?
Click to expand...

Both boards are nearly identical. I have both and there is absolutely no difference to me. Unless you get a bad board, can't go wrong with either. Both are missing RAID, firewire, and only 4 SATA but if that's all you need can't go wrong.

Any RAM that can initially boot at 1.8V at SPD low settings will work fine - if yours won't you'll have to boot with a different stick, change the RAM voltage in BIOS, then plug back in the high voltage RAM. I have tested budget A-DATA DDR800 CAS5, Crucial Ballistix DDR800 CAS4, Corsair XMS2 675, and OCZ plat rev2 DDR800 all of which work fine.

Most of my RAM is rated at 2.1 or 2.2 but they will POST at 1.8V CAS5 and stock FSB on my processors fine, then you can manually change all the settings.
 
aiya said:
that ram is pretty much the same as their DDR2-800 sticks that i have, just they've been tested to run at that rated speed with looser timings. i don't see an issue.
Click to expand...
& I have Ballistix PC-8000 in mine running fine.
 
So...
Anyone know where you can still find these in stock without a 50% markup?
Saw NewEgg had them back in stock this morning, but by the time I added it to my cart & got halfway through the checkout process, it stopped me to say that Item#whatever had been removed from my cart due to a stocking issue. As much as I'd like to pick another up at the moment, at the prices most stores seem to be charging, I might as well pay the extra dollar for the vanilla IP35.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top