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Voltage Spike? .3-.7 bad?

dustin

Weaksauce
Joined
Jul 7, 2004
Messages
99
My power supply is giving 3.5 to 3.7 where it shuold be giving 3.3

It fluctuates, is this normal? Should I RMA the PS?
 
What's the PSU? And, what do the other rails look like? Are you checking it with a multimeter?
 
This is the power supply http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProdu...-182-002&depa=0

Type: ATX
Maximum Power: 500W
Hold-up Time: > 10ms at Full Load and nominal input voltage
Efficiency: 70% min. under max. range load
Over Voltage Protection: +3.3V +5V +12V
Input Voltage: 115V/230V AC
Input Frequency Range: 50-60 Hz
Input Current: 10A/5A
Output: +3.3V@28A, +5V@30A, +12V@34A, -5V@0.3A, -12V@0.8A, +5VSB@2A
MTBF: 100k hours at max. load, normal line and 25°C
Approvals: cUL, FCC, CSA, CB, TUV, CE, NEMCO
Features: User-Adjustable Fan Speed Controller, Sleeved Wires, 2x 80mm UV Blue LED Fans

Im checking it with the hardware monitor that comes with my motherboard and the monitor built into the BIOS.
 
You won't really have any useful facts with out a multimeter. You need to get one to be sure.
 
bad link
so now I know most everything about the supply but what make it is :p

Basic Spec compliance of 5% is
+12V....11.4V to 12.6V
+5V......4.75V to 5.25V
+3.3V...3.135V to 3.465V

fluctuation occurs, and is dependent on the changing load placed on the supply and the ability of the supply to adapt to that, what you cant really tell very accurately from the System Management Bus (SMBus) where the BIOS and other software pulls the values from is its calibration, is +3.3V really +3.3 or is it +3.4 ect

in your case if 3.5 = 3.2 your well within spec
but if the figures its giving you are accurate your have overshoots

Multimeters are pretty cheap, but on the lower end are fairly inaccurate themselves
as an investment, there are worse ways to spend your money, but like any investment you get what you pay for, so a $20 DMM (Digital Multimeter) might get you ±0.7%
whereas a top of the line DMM will set you back $300+ and give you ± 0.025% accuracy



more on baseline voltages and why youd want to avoid overshoots
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=854186&
 
Thanks, btw its a Rosewill 500w. Its not an expensive PS. I think I may just RMA Refund it and save 50 more bucks for an Antec.
 
not much is known about the Rosewills
other than the are rebrands

do you see any serial numbers?
specifically any UL numbers? (Underwriters Labratories)
 
Im just getting an Antec and Ill keep this POS around for backup. Its giving me even more trouble now
 
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