Vapochill worth it?

Originally posted by nst6563
Get both an awsome WC setup AND the Vapo/Prommy...then put a bit of antifreeze in the WC mix...and put the Vapo/Prommy on the water resevoir...that way you can cool CPU, NB, GPU with those ultra low temps :)

....anyone ever tried that???? Would it even work??? I would think so as long as the water was kept moving and had some antifreeze...but I could be wrong. Closest I've been to watercooling was pissing on an old Compaq EN.

for waterchillers, leave the prommie or the vapo entirely out of the plan and you'd be on the right track. a correctly built waterchiller with the right coolant is close to the best all around cooling system that you can get.

take a decent sized reservior with coolant rated for -50C or better and add a phase change system with an evaporator designed to chill a volume of liquid (as opposed to one designed for direct die cooling) and you have a cooling system that can subzero every major component on your system through a fairly standard (albeit heavily insulated) watercooling loop.

prommies or vapos only cool the CPU. to get cooling to the GPU or the n.bridge you have to 1).start from scratch (build a phase change system that will work properly with more than one evaporator - also referred to as a royal pain in the ass) 2). Add more phase change systems to cool the other components thru direct die cooling (better have a massive fricken case) 3). add pelts and water to other components (not as efficient as phase change)

you could use the same basic waterchiller design to go to extreme low temps (3M electronic liquids can work below -80C, they are dielectric and virtually nontoxic) or you can use a smaller compressor, condenser, different refrigerants, etc. and build a system that will only go down to 0C, 5C or just about any temp point you want....this could also be done with a very powerful system and a temp controller.

the good part - a waterchiller can be built much less than either of the direct die commercial models. If you already have a good H2O loop, you just have to insulate the hell out of everything and then hook it into the chiller.

no pre-existing H2O system? the cost is still much less.
complete H2O loop (with all the good gear) - $250
waterchiller - $150 max if you build your own.
total =$400.

side note: a prommie or vapo evap dunked into a res wouldn't work worth a damn - there is not enough surface area on the evap for the job at hand.
 
Listen to Weapon he has made the best points here.

If you got all that cash to burn and you really are "[H]ard" you know what you have to do.

Get the Prommie, tweak it and get -40 cpu temps.

Or, build a waterchiller and freeze your vid card and cpu, alot cheaper but insulating the coolant lines is either a pain in the ass or looks like crap.

Only reason I haven't done these is every time I save up enough money I buy something for one of my cars, much more fun IMHO.

I'm seriously considering the waterchiller though as summer nears and the temps shoot through the roof. I know what its like there in Yuma, I spent a year there.
 
Originally posted by weapon--
side note: a prommie or vapo evap dunked into a res wouldn't work worth a damn - there is not enough surface area on the evap for the job at hand.


That was the answer I was looking for. Something with a little explanation behind it...not just a "That's a waste of time"...hell, I coulda got a useless answer like that from my 5-year old.

Thanks
 
Originally posted by nst6563
That was the answer I was looking for. Something with a little explanation behind it...not just a "That's a waste of time"...hell, I coulda got a useless answer like that from my 5-year old.

Thanks

np.

if you swapped out the evap for a copper coil (pretty much like those used in lab chillers but larger) the prommie might have some potential but that would be a waste of cash.

if you want a chiller, you can get a good condensing unit, add the necessary copper coils to work as an evaporator, dunk the evap in a small cooler, hook it up to your H2O loop and have a mean cooling system. the phase change parts shouldn't be more than $150-$175 including the copper for the coils if you go with the condensing unit route. If you convert a window a/c into a chiller you could build one for under $150.

you could fill the system with R134a (bought from autozone) or R290 (propane) depending on the compressor and the type of oil that is in it. If you go with the window a/c conversion route and you are careful enough with the lines, you never have to remove the refrigerant (just dunk the evap from the window a/c into a cooler). If you have to remove the refrigerant you could just have an A/C technician add the refrigerant for a little more cash (prolly cheaper than buying the gear to DIY).

this chiller discussion is going to end up tempting me into building another one. :) I'll take lots of pics. ;)
 
Intel:
3.4C (if it turns out you have the money spring for the EE but its not really worth it...)
IC7-MAX3 (full volt mods)
2x 512mb: xms3500, xms3200ll v1.1, or khx3200(not A version) - BH-5

AMD:
FX-53
SK8V volt modded! (maybe wait for sock 939?)
TwinX-RE3500LL 1024mb - BH-5

Shared components:
NV40 or R420 (volt mod it once people figure out how to)
watercooling for VPU/GPU with a TEC (whatever they end up making that fits the new cards)
Vapochill LS (unless Mach II GT turns out to be wayyy better...)
Lian Li PC-75
PC Power & Cooling Deluxe 510watt PSU (volt mod this too ;) )
Audigy 2 ZS Platinum Pro
Klipsch Promedia 5.1 Ultra or Logitech Z-680
sennheiser makes some good headphones that are high quality and comfortable
2x 74gb raptors (no scsi is NOT faster because itd have to go through the pci bus)
if you want more storage get 250gb hdds or more raptors for the 4 extra sata ports on the max3 or 2 for the extra ports on the sk8v
Plextor 712 dvd burner (comes out this month)
Lite-On SOHC-5232K dvd-rom/cd-rw
floppy drive
quality shielded/rounded ide cables
good quality fans, cathodes etc whatever you want to make your shit look badass

you cant really build a faster computer than that unless you get lucky and get some chips that clock really high and get a multiple stage cascade for the cpu and gpu...
 
Yes raptors are fast, I have one myself but the all out performance crown still belongs in the SCSI camp.

Check out this article from Toms Hardware.

http://www4.tomshardware.com/storage/20030501/wd360-01.html

Here is an excerpt.

Achieving over 60 MB/s makes it the fastest IDE hard disk drive we have tested to date. Even more impressive is the minimum transfer rate, which, standing at over 40 MB/s, equals the same high rate of the Maxtor Atlas 10K.4 we chose to use as an example to represent the SCSI faction with its Ultra320 interface. Achieving just under 70 MB/s, the 10K.4 did, however, teach the Raptor a little respect again.
 
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