• Some users have recently had their accounts hijacked. It seems that the now defunct EVGA forums might have compromised your password there and seems many are using the same PW here. We would suggest you UPDATE YOUR PASSWORD and TURN ON 2FA for your account here to further secure it. None of the compromised accounts had 2FA turned on.
    Once you have enabled 2FA, your account will be updated soon to show a badge, letting other members know that you use 2FA to protect your account. This should be beneficial for everyone that uses FSFT.

USB 3.0 internal headers

Jeffman

Gawd
Joined
Jul 23, 2008
Messages
917
Hey!

I just did a new build, using an older x58 motherboard that has USB 3.0 on the rear ports, but none of the 19 pin internal headers.

I have two cables I'd like to plug in. One for the front ports on my case, and one for the card reader I bought that supports USB 3.0.

Are there any cards out there I can use that have TWO of the 19 pin headers? I don't really want to used up 2 card slots and add 2 PCI-E cards for connections. Right now, I'm using adapters to plug them into the USB 2.0 headers on the board, but want to change them to 3.0 if I can.
 
Last edited:
I cannot find a single internal card that actually has 2x19pin headers. I'll keep digging a bit.
 
Assuming you only have two USB 3.0 ports out the back, you can use a cable the combines two USB 3.0 A into one 19/20 pin female USB 3.0 box header and route your cable back into the interior of your case. Pick which connection is more important to have USB 3.0 on. If the card reader has a USB 3.0 type A plug on the front of it then that is the one I would choose. Leave the other one hooked to USB 2.0 header.

Because the affordable PCI to USB 3 cards don't work all that well,
1. they are limited by the PCI bus speed, and
2. they don't work with a lot of devices like the inexpensive thumb drives (2.0 or 3.0).
3. None of them have two 19/20 pin box headers

I have a SYBA PCI to USB 3.0 card and after much work and third party firmware I gave up and pulled it out of the computer. I even considered removing the two "A" plug from the back and soldering a box header in their place if I could have gotten it working correctly.

I understand that there are cards that work better but they cost a lot more, for me it was cheaper to buy a different motherboard.

You could use your native USB 3.0 ports to drive a quality powered USB 3.0 hub to achieve what you want, but it costs more than replacing the motherboard with one that has at least one 19/20 pin USB 3.0 box header
 
Last edited:
Back
Top