Urgent: Watercooling setup help. (Need to order soon)

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enyceexdanny

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Sep 22, 2003
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Hey guys. I have a favor to ask of you.

Below is my current setup:

- Intel Core i7 950
- EVGA E770 Classified 3 motherboard
- Corsair HX1000 PSU
- Corsair Dominator GT 1866 DDR3 Memory (3x2gb)
- XFX 5970 Black Edition
- Lian Li PC-1200V Plus II
- Swiftech Apex Ultima (CPU only)

Here's my situation:

I want to totally re-do my entire watercooling setup. I'm going to give my current setup away to a friend. I'm thinking of replacing my case as well, to the Corsair Obsidian 800.

The prerequisites:

- I am fairly new to watercooling and don't have much knowledge regarding it. My current setup a friend has helped me install.
- I would like to watercool not just the CPU, but the motherboard and the GPU.
- Need something that's easy to maintain. MY current setup I haven't flushed ever since it was installed, which was over a year ago. Surprisingly, it's still performing well. I've used distilled water + fluid + waterwetter (which seems to have helped in keeping the loop algae free.)
- Pricing is not really too much of a factor. I just want it to be worth my while.

The favor:

I would greatly appreciate suggestions for the entire setup parts. Since I'm pretty new to watercooling, I would appreciate as detailed list of items that I'll need. (e.g. tubing, fitting, barbs, radiator, pumps, etc). Also would appreciate some guidance in how I should set it up. (e.g. dual vs single loop. Where to place the radiators (if dual), etc.)

Thanks!

Edit:

Below are the current parts I'm looking at. Please share your thoughts.

From my current setup:

- Swiftech MCP655 Pump
- Swiftech 240 radiator

Already purchased:

- Corsair Obsidian 800D Case
- (20) Bitspower Ultimate G 1/4 Thread 1/2"ID x 3/4"OD Compression Fitting
- (5) Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm High Speed Fans (For the 360 Radiator)

Still waiting to purchase:

- EK Supreme HF Full Copper/Nickel CPU Block
- EK-FC5970 Radeon 5970 Reference Design Block
- XSPC RX360 Radiator or the new TA120.3 if it's available within a few days.
- Swiftech MCP655 Pump
- Bitspower D5/MCP655 Pump Replacement Top Version 2 BP-D5TOPP2-BK (For cleaner/easier dual pump placement)
- (2) EK Multioption RES X2 - 250 Advanced
- EK-FB EVGA X58 Classified Full Board Block (Compatibility with E770 is pending)
- (3) Noiseblocker NB-Blacksilentpro PK-3 140mm Fan (Replacement fans for obsidian case)
- (2) IandH Silver KillCoils
- (10 feet) Tygon R-3400 1/2"ID (3/4" OD) Black Tubing (Still contemplating if the primoflex pro would be better)


Total comes out to almost 1500 after shipping.

EDIT (10/25):

This is how I'm thinking of cooling.

- 360 Radiator along with (1) MCP655 pump will be cooling the CPU + Motherboard (NB/SB/MOSFETS)
- Swiftech 240 Radiator with (1) MCP655 pump will be cooling the XFX 5970 BE.

Would that be enough? Any suggestions?


Questions:

- coming soon.
 
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water-ooling the northbridge is mostly pointless now unless you have terrible airflow in the case. Once it stopped being the memory controller what's left no longer was an overheating bottleneck.
 
for 24/7 overclocking you'll probably want to look at ~60 mm thick low fin-density radiators (anything with less than 20 fpi), these normally perform the best with normal fans at silent to pleasant sound levels. 4x120 should be able to surpass air cooling with all the components you want to cool depending on the fans/speeds used, and you should see decent gains up to around 6x120 depending on the heat your system is putting out. 140mm type rads are the way to go if you have access to good/decent 140mm fans, they should normally show close to a 50% gain in performance over the 120mm type (with similar fpi and width).

most current waterblocks will perform very similarly, you probably won't see more than ~2C difference between most of the better ones. the biggest difference will probably be in flow rates, which will only matter with the pump(s) you're using along with the number of components in your loop. basically get what you prefer aesthetically, what's in your budget, or whatever you seem to think is best.

with reservoirs I'd stay away from most bay res. a lot eventually leak (the ones with molded construction are your best bet if necessary and shouldn't normally have this problem). be careful with a lot of the gimmicky ones that look pretty also ("flow rate wheels", "waterfalls" any type of splash effects), these can introduce or keep bubbles in the loop.

if you want to keep tubing looking clean for a long time, look for stuff that uses low amounts of plasticizers (this stuff leaking out of the tubing is normally what causes the water to cloud up) like the tubing used for water distribution (drinking water).

can't really recommend anything specifically, there's a lot of good and decent parts out on the market so "the best" is highly subjective and mostly depends on what you're looking for.
 
If you want tubing the stays clear get tygon. It's a food grade plastic so it's not allowed to leach anything into your loop. It's 2 or 3x as expensive as the masterclear plastic that goes cloudy after a few months, but the total cost will still be less than any of the other major parts in your loop.
 
DanNeely said:
water-ooling the northbridge is mostly pointless now unless you have terrible airflow in the case. Once it stopped being the memory controller what's left no longer was an overheating bottleneck.
Click to expand...

I'm looking at the full motherboard block, which should cover the NB/SB/Mosfets. Is it not worth cooling the Mosfets?
 
Skull_Angel said:
for 24/7 overclocking you'll probably want to look at ~60 mm thick low fin-density radiators (anything with less than 20 fpi), these normally perform the best with normal fans at silent to pleasant sound levels. 4x120 should be able to surpass air cooling with all the components you want to cool depending on the fans/speeds used, and you should see decent gains up to around 6x120 depending on the heat your system is putting out. 140mm type rads are the way to go if you have access to good/decent 140mm fans, they should normally show close to a 50% gain in performance over the 120mm type (with similar fpi and width).

most current waterblocks will perform very similarly, you probably won't see more than ~2C difference between most of the better ones. the biggest difference will probably be in flow rates, which will only matter with the pump(s) you're using along with the number of components in your loop. basically get what you prefer aesthetically, what's in your budget, or whatever you seem to think is best.

with reservoirs I'd stay away from most bay res. a lot eventually leak (the ones with molded construction are your best bet if necessary and shouldn't normally have this problem). be careful with a lot of the gimmicky ones that look pretty also ("flow rate wheels", "waterfalls" any type of splash effects), these can introduce or keep bubbles in the loop.

if you want to keep tubing looking clean for a long time, look for stuff that uses low amounts of plasticizers (this stuff leaking out of the tubing is normally what causes the water to cloud up) like the tubing used for water distribution (drinking water).

can't really recommend anything specifically, there's a lot of good and decent parts out on the market so "the best" is highly subjective and mostly depends on what you're looking for.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your detailed response. Do you think for my setup, I would need dual loops?
I've actually updated my original post with the items I'm currently leaning towards. Mind giving me some pointers?
 
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DanNeely said:
If you want tubing the stays clear get tygon. It's a food grade plastic so it's not allowed to leach anything into your loop. It's 2 or 3x as expensive as the masterclear plastic that goes cloudy after a few months, but the total cost will still be less than any of the other major parts in your loop.
Click to expand...

Will definitely look into that one.
 
I see that some blocks don't come with an option of compression fittings. How exactly does this work if I decide to go that route?
 
the pump you're planning to use is very powerful, shouldn't have any trouble running a single loop.

barbs v compression is pretty much preference. barbs are cheaper, but compressions allow you to maintain your system easier (replacing tubing) plus they got a higher "bling" factor, lol.

1/2" ID x 3/"4 OD is pretty standard and normally has a good kink resistance (varies by composition as well), shouldn't have any trouble finding fittings for it. the early version of the supreme HF small blocks had a spacing problem with 1/2" compression fittings which was revised in a later model if I remember right, so be aware of that.

the rest is looking pretty good, though with all those components on a 3x120 you may not see any performance increase over air cooling.
 
Skull_Angel said:
the pump you're planning to use is very powerful, shouldn't have any trouble running a single loop.

barbs v compression is pretty much preference. barbs are cheaper, but compressions allow you to maintain your system easier (replacing tubing) plus they got a higher "bling" factor, lol.

1/2" ID x 3/"4 OD is pretty standard and normally has a good kink resistance (varies by composition as well), shouldn't have any trouble finding fittings for it. the early version of the supreme HF small blocks had a spacing problem with 1/2" compression fittings which was revised in a later model if I remember right, so be aware of that.

the rest is looking pretty good, though with all those components on a 3x120 you may not see any performance increase over air cooling.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your response.

Oh and I've decided to go dual loop. Please check my original post and let me know if everything looks okay. =)
 
I say dont waste space/time/money on a dual loop. just add another radiator. as long as the vga block is isolated, you should be fine. you dont want the vga heat leaching into your cpu...but as my sig says, I'm no expert, but I would assume with the right setup, you should be fine.

loopidea.jpg
 
enyceexdanny said:
I see that some blocks don't come with an option of compression fittings. How exactly does this work if I decide to go that route?
Click to expand...

Just order compression fittings separately.

I prefer BitsPower, they come in about any shape,size and angle you can imagine.

Just make sure your blocks have the spacing for the diameter of fitting and tubing you'd want......and are compatable with the block's fitting size....ie G1/4 is pretty standard, but some bigger rads are now going with G3/8......just make sure you read the manuals before you order.

I generally order all my compressions from Sidewindercomputers.com, sometimes they don't have just what I need which forces me to Performance-pcs.com. Performance has a mega-inventory, but their shipping rates are killer.

Nice thing about Sidewinder, easy to call on the phone and ask questions.

Watch out in tubing....some Tygon varieties cloud up like a bitch.

Kill coils work fine, you'll need nothing else.
 
SticKx911 said:
I say dont waste space/time/money on a dual loop. just add another radiator. as long as the vga block is isolated, you should be fine. you dont want the vga heat leaching into your cpu...but as my sig says, I'm no expert, but I would assume with the right setup, you should be fine.
Click to expand...

But if I put all the components in 1 loop, vga block isn't really isolated. Also, adding another radiator doesn't dramatically reduce the water temp between the GPU and CPU.

Well that's just my assumption. Would love some additional feedback on this.
 
magoo said:
Just order compression fittings separately.

I prefer BitsPower, they come in about any shape,size and angle you can imagine.

Just make sure your blocks have the spacing for the diameter of fitting and tubing you'd want......and are compatable with the block's fitting size....ie G1/4 is pretty standard, but some bigger rads are now going with G3/8......just make sure you read the manuals before you order.

I generally order all my compressions from Sidewindercomputers.com, sometimes they don't have just what I need which forces me to Performance-pcs.com. Performance has a mega-inventory, but their shipping rates are killer.

Nice thing about Sidewinder, easy to call on the phone and ask questions.

Watch out in tubing....some Tygon varieties cloud up like a bitch.

Kill coils work fine, you'll need nothing else.
Click to expand...

Thanks a bunch.
Oh and do you think it's ok to order just 20 of the standard compression fittings? Would i need any angled ones? And finally, rotary compression fittings = worth it?

I'm planning on ordering most of the parts from FrozenCPU. They seem to have about the same pricing as performance-pcs (although on some items it's a tad more expensive). But their shipping is a bit cheaper and would be faster since I'm located in NJ.
 
enyceexdanny said:
Thanks a bunch.
Oh and do you think it's ok to order just 20 of the standard compression fittings? Would i need any angled ones? And finally, rotary compression fittings = worth it?

I'm planning on ordering most of the parts from FrozenCPU. They seem to have about the same pricing as performance-pcs (although on some items it's a tad more expensive). But their shipping is a bit cheaper and would be faster since I'm located in NJ.
Click to expand...

Rotaries are very helpful, you turn the fitting instead of the tubing.....makes install that much easier.
I do use four 45 degree angles in my current setup....but thats just me. If I had no idea how the loop was going to lay out, I'd probably order at least two 90 and two 45 degree angle connectors so I could cover all the bases. just remember that the angled piece is just that, a piece that fits into the base of the block, but still needs a separate compression on the end. I like rotaries for angles so I can turn them where I need to.

FrozenCPU is a good place, I do use them for stuff I need quick, since I live in NY. That said, I think Sidewinder can still beat them by about a dollar a connector most of the time.
 
enyceexdanny said:
But if I put all the components in 1 loop, vga block isn't really isolated. Also, adding another radiator doesn't dramatically reduce the water temp between the GPU and CPU.

Well that's just my assumption. Would love some additional feedback on this.
Click to expand...

true, it wont be isolated. and honestly my experiance with gpu cooling is just that. the gpu, so I do not know what kind of added heat the full card will have, but I have a 70% OC on my cpu and 30% on my gpu and my temps are all at least on par with what I could get with a large air setup and all I have is a dual 140 and a cheap Tt waterblock on both. I never break 55c on my cpu. If you are looking to drop temps lower with a significant OC, I think you may have to go dual loop, but that is way more expensive and think of the extra room needed to facilitate the extra pump and reservoir. It's a lot more work IMO to save maybe 10c that wont really be more than bragging rights.

edit, if you plan to sli, I suppose a dual is almost required. lol, or at least a larger radiator setup. also, is there even space for the 360? I thought there were only 2 120s on top...?
 
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magoo said:
Rotaries are very helpful, you turn the fitting instead of the tubing.....makes install that much easier.
I do use four 45 degree angles in my current setup....but thats just me. If I had no idea how the loop was going to lay out, I'd probably order at least two 90 and two 45 degree angle connectors so I could cover all the bases. just remember that the angled piece is just that, a piece that fits into the base of the block, but still needs a separate compression on the end. I like rotaries for angles so I can turn them where I need to.

FrozenCPU is a good place, I do use them for stuff I need quick, since I live in NY. That said, I think Sidewinder can still beat them by about a dollar a connector most of the time.
Click to expand...

Really? So for fittings like this, you have to turn the tubing to tighten? Oh and I didn't realize that the angle connectors required a separate set of fittings.

Hmm I may have to look into this a bit further and adjust the items. =/

Edit:

These don't require the additional fittings correct?
 
enyceexdanny said:
Really? So for fittings like this, you have to turn the tubing to tighten? Oh and I didn't realize that the angle connectors required a separate set of fittings.

Hmm I may have to look into this a bit further and adjust the items. =/
Click to expand...

You don't need to "turn" the tubing to tighten the compression fitting, I may not have explained that really well.(also some dual rotary compression angles are "fully equipped") To "compress" the tubing, you push or twist the tube into the nozzle on the fitting, then screw down(tighten) the compression ring. it's just that sometimes to fit the tube onto the nozzle it's easier to turn the nozzle(rotary) than the tube....the rotary also allows you to adjust the tubing route as you run your loop.

Yes.....when you buy an angle fitting, the fitting screws into the block, but it has a female end on it, so you buy the standard compression fitting to go into that end....ie the one you linked. example needing a compression:http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bimablro45g1.html
Now this dual rotary comes fully equipped: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bimabl3id1od.html

Just pay attention when ordering.
 
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enyceexdanny said:
So the one I linked is fully equipped no? Or am I not seeing it.
Click to expand...

Yes, that fitting is a dual rotary 45 degree fitting. The end with the green washer fits in the block, the end with the nozzle and compression ring takes the tubing.
It is complete as is and ready to go.

I apologize if I was confusing at all.
 
Three questions:

1. Any suggestions on the reservoir? I was originally thinking about XSPC Dual bay (dual loop) reservoir, but I really hate the look of the faceplate. So I was thinking of the EK multioption tubes, but I don't think I can fit two of them inside the case.

2. Tubing. I'm mainly looking at either the Tygon R-3400 (black) and Primoflex Pro LRT (black). Any suggestions on this as well?

3. Should I cool the CPU/Motherboard with the 360 rad and GPU (5970) with the 240 one? or the other way around. My CPU, I'm aiming at around 4~4.2 OC. My GPU I run below stock but during games I have it overclocked to 950/1200.

Thanks.

I just picked up the 800D Case earlier today at MC. Going to order the rest of the parts as soon as E770 block compatibility is confirmed with the older classified blocks. (EK)
 
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SticKx911 said:
true, it wont be isolated. and honestly my experiance with gpu cooling is just that. the gpu, so I do not know what kind of added heat the full card will have, but I have a 70% OC on my cpu and 30% on my gpu and my temps are all at least on par with what I could get with a large air setup and all I have is a dual 140 and a cheap Tt waterblock on both. I never break 55c on my cpu. If you are looking to drop temps lower with a significant OC, I think you may have to go dual loop, but that is way more expensive and think of the extra room needed to facilitate the extra pump and reservoir. It's a lot more work IMO to save maybe 10c that wont really be more than bragging rights.

edit, if you plan to sli, I suppose a dual is almost required. lol, or at least a larger radiator setup. also, is there even space for the 360? I thought there were only 2 120s on top...?
Click to expand...

Yeah I agree. But luckily I have the parts from my current watercooling setup. Mainly being, Swiftech 120x2 Rad and a MCP655 pump. I was planning on placing the new 3x120 rad on the top of the Obsidian 800D case (internally), and my swiftech on the rear of the case (externally) as I have it currently.
 
I use the Tygon black tubing, it has several advantages; one it isn't clear so less light for the algea to feed on, second it is pretty pliable. Good choice. I don't have any experience with any other brands except Tygon. I do use Primochill tubing coils in areas with tight bends, really helps to manuever the tubing without the fear of kinks.

I prefer the swiftech Micro-res revision 2, it's very small and easily drained. It has also a top screw to let out air to bleed the system. The new revision adds a bottom screw hole, and both holes are now G1/4 threaded. It has a small hole drilled in the plexi shelf inside the res which used to trap air bubbles, not anymore. last, it's really cheap. I've tried bay revervoirs but they essentially suck and are hard to bleed and refill if you need to.

I would run the GPU to the 120.2 and the MB blocks to the 120.3 :D
 
the gpu will add the most heat and can take being the hottest, so I say run the 360 before the cpu and the 240 before the gpu.
 
magoo said:
I use the Tygon black tubing, it has several advantages; one it isn't clear so less light for the algea to feed on, second it is pretty pliable. Good choice. I don't have any experience with any other brands except Tygon. I do use Primochill tubing coils in areas with tight bends, really helps to manuever the tubing without the fear of kinks.

I prefer the swiftech Micro-res revision 2, it's very small and easily drained. It has also a top screw to let out air to bleed the system. The new revision adds a bottom screw hole, and both holes are now G1/4 threaded. It has a small hole drilled in the plexi shelf inside the res which used to trap air bubbles, not anymore. last, it's really cheap. I've tried bay revervoirs but they essentially suck and are hard to bleed and refill if you need to.

I would run the GPU to the 120.2 and the MB blocks to the 120.3 :D
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. And you mean MB blocks + CPU on the 120.3 right? lol

And I have another question.
I'm having a hard time picking the quantities of the following:


  1. Standard compression fittings
  2. 45 Degree angled compression fittings
Since these fittings cost so much, I don't want to end up ordering too many if it's not needed. Basically, I'll need the fittings for the below items - but don't really know which parts would require the angled ones to help the tubing.


  • 2 pumps (4 fittings)
  • 2 res (4 fittings)
  • CPU (2 fittings)
  • GPU (2 fittings)
  • 2 Rads (4 fittings)
  • Motherboard (2 fittings)
Thanks


EDIT: Look at the picture from Devil_dog. (Middle of the page) That's basically what I'm going for except there's 1 videocard instead of 2. And the reservoir i'm not decided on yet. And also I'll have 1 360 rad on top, and 1 240 rad on the back externally. (I wont have a rad on the bottom of the case).

I've actually PM'd him and asked him to stop by this thread.

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1457749&page=9
 
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the angled fittings depend on how your hoses will run through the case. so it really depends on how you set it up.
 
Thanks for the info. And you mean MB blocks + CPU on the 120.3 right? lol

And I have another question.
I'm having a hard time picking the quantities of the following:


Standard compression fittings
45 Degree angled compression fittings
Since these fittings cost so much, I don't want to end up ordering too many if it's not needed. Basically, I'll need the fittings for the below items - but don't really know which parts would require the angled ones to help the tubing.


2 pumps (4 fittings)
2 res (4 fittings)
CPU (2 fittings)
GPU (2 fittings)
2 Rads (4 fittings)
Motherboard (2 fittings)
Thanks
Click to expand...

Well, since the cpu is on the MB, I essentially think of it as a MB block, just as the NB and SB blocks.

Connectors:
If you are using standard MCP 655 pumps, they are equipped with a front face that has stock 3/8" barbs. If you want to use compressions, you'll need to replace the front with this: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bid5modtop.html

This front screws on and allows you to use compressions in several different ways.

Your reservoirs can generally use plain straight compresions.

CPU I would use 45 degree dual rotary fittings.

GPU 45 or 90 degree since the fittings generally face down toward the bottom of the case.

Radiators can get away with straight.

MB Block, one straight and one 45degree.
 
enyceexdanny said:
Also, for this reservoir.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...Total_Ports.html?id=SbqYVPmY&mv_pc=1610#blank

It says "Additionally the reservoir comes with three internal 12mm ID and 16mm OD tubs in different lengths with thread on one end so it can be screwed into threaded ports inside the reservoir (2 × bottom, 1 × top)." I really don't understand what this means. Would appreciate some enlightenment.
Click to expand...


This reservoir has tubing inside it, I would giess it ts placed there to reduce turbulence of flow into the reservoir? or air bubbles? I am not sure. It is pretty pricey compared to the Swiftech Micro-Res.

The only real "rule" of watercooling I've ever seen is always place the reservoir to feed the pump.....ie put the reservoir before the pump. That way the pump always has enough volume to push around.

10 feet is enough, but I always buy a couple extra feet in case I screw up. That and if I don't like the way it looks I'll have extra and not have to reorder.
 
Do you think I can fit 2 of the multioption x2 250 inside the case without it blocking the case fans?
 
Would it make sense to sandwich two rads with 3 fans in between? (HWlabs SR1 + Swiftech MCR320) Would it degrade performance by a lot?

Also, how exactly would you sandwich those two together?
 
it would work, you'd loose some performance yes, but I doubt you'd loose more than like 5 degrees on the outside one. so if it makes fitting in your case easier, you could try it.
 
rad1.jpg


the air reaching the outside radiator will be warmer. not much, but enough to make a small difference.
 
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