![[H]ard|Forum](/styles/hardforum/xenforo/logo_dark.png){kind=logo}
-
Some users have recently had their accounts hijacked. It seems that the now defunct EVGA forums might have compromised your password there and seems many are using the same PW here. We would suggest you UPDATE YOUR PASSWORD and TURN ON 2FA for your account here to further secure it. None of the compromised accounts had 2FA turned on.
Once you have enabled 2FA, your account will be updated soon to show a badge, letting other members know that you use 2FA to protect your account. This should be beneficial for everyone that uses FSFT.
UPS/Enermax issues
- Thread starter antok86
- Start date
Uhm I think you got it backwards. If the PSU has NO pfc and a very poor power factor then a pure sine wave UPS is necessary to avoid tripping the overload circuits from the extra induced impedance.
no i'm pretty sure i got it right
the active pfc requires full sine wave because thats what it gets from the plug and thats what the control circuits are designed to deal with on the input thuss allowing 85%< efficiency, so it wont operate well with sine-like input. on the other hand the passive pfc filters the input power with an iron core so it doesnt have any extra control circuit which might be in the way so its not so bitch about the input wave, but it needs a fix input power (115V/230V), unlike the active (~100-230V)
the active pfc requires full sine wave because thats what it gets from the plug and thats what the control circuits are designed to deal with on the input thuss allowing 85%< efficiency, so it wont operate well with sine-like input. on the other hand the passive pfc filters the input power with an iron core so it doesnt have any extra control circuit which might be in the way so its not so bitch about the input wave, but it needs a fix input power (115V/230V), unlike the active (~100-230V)
What do you mean by that? Is the UPS not able to keep the computer on if the PSU has active PFC? I am using a cheapo APC UPS and a Seasonic PSU with active PFC. When the power goes out, my computer stays on, and I am pretty sure my UPS does not have true sine wave output.
please also quote where i wrote "if you dont do it this way your pc will blow up and all life in the universe will end". if you prefer it that way be my guest, i'm not concerned. but there's a right way and an easy way, he asked, i ansewred, simple as that.
when you brows the stores like newegg and such there's usually a section where it defines what sort of PFC (Power Factor Correction) it has (can be active, passive and none). pfc is requred in the EU, dont know about the states. no pfc is the worst option, passive operates at ~75% efficiency and active at ~85%. for the ups you can find the output wave on the products official page, stores like to forget to add this info.
Type ATX12V
Maximum Power 400W
Fans 1
PFC Active
Main Connector 20+4Pin
Dual +12V Yes
PCI-E Connectors 2 x 6Pin
SLI Support Yes
Modular Cabling Support Yes
Hold-up Time 17ms at 115VAC or 230VAC, full load
Efficiency 80%
Over Voltage Protection +5V: 5.5V~7.0V; +3.3V:3.76V~4.3V; +12V & +12V2: 13.4V~15.6V
Overload Protection 110~160% of max load
Input Voltage 90V~265V (Auto Adjusted)
Input Frequency Range 47 - 63 Hz
Input Current 40A/115V and 80A/230V max. during cold start
Output +3.3V@26A, +5V@28A, +12V1@20A, +12V2@20A, -12V@0.6A, +5VSB@3A
MTBF Greater than 100K hours at 70% of full rated load
Approvals UL, cUL, TUV, CB
so mine does have active PFC...so its good?
Maximum Power 400W
Fans 1
PFC Active
Main Connector 20+4Pin
Dual +12V Yes
PCI-E Connectors 2 x 6Pin
SLI Support Yes
Modular Cabling Support Yes
Hold-up Time 17ms at 115VAC or 230VAC, full load
Efficiency 80%
Over Voltage Protection +5V: 5.5V~7.0V; +3.3V:3.76V~4.3V; +12V & +12V2: 13.4V~15.6V
Overload Protection 110~160% of max load
Input Voltage 90V~265V (Auto Adjusted)
Input Frequency Range 47 - 63 Hz
Input Current 40A/115V and 80A/230V max. during cold start
Output +3.3V@26A, +5V@28A, +12V1@20A, +12V2@20A, -12V@0.6A, +5VSB@3A
MTBF Greater than 100K hours at 70% of full rated load
Approvals UL, cUL, TUV, CB
so mine does have active PFC...so its good?
is there a way to test if my pc will stay on...if the ups backup kicks in without trying it on the actuall computer?...i also have a APC uPS backup...duno which model..its kinda old
silent-circuit
[H]F Junkie
- Joined
- Sep 18, 2005
- Messages
- 16,132
Just let it sit on the Windows desktop and pull the cord to the UPS out of the wall. If it dies... nope, didn't work. As long as there's no hard drive activity shouldn't hurt anything.
Disclaimer: Shouldn't does not equate to 'absolutely will not'. If something /does/ happen I am totally /not/ responsible for the consequences.
To answer your original question: No, not really, sorry.
Disclaimer: Shouldn't does not equate to 'absolutely will not'. If something /does/ happen I am totally /not/ responsible for the consequences.
To answer your original question: No, not really, sorry.
I am not an expert on UPS and do not know about any problems that may be associated with UPS and power supplies with active PFC. I was hoping you could clarify what you meant instead of getting hostile.
Unplug the UPS when your computer is on.
I just checked, and this worked for me.ok just did it....and the computer turned off when unplugged ..this is wats written on the top of the ups APC® Back-UPS ES 350....wierd thing is it works when little thigs are plugged in like charging my phone or nintendo ds lite when the backup kicks in...maybe it cant handle my pc
sry, was not my intention to sound like an asshole, was just stating facts. ups used with active pfc can cause the ups to overload, the battery to deplete faster and in some cases the pc wont even start
so in this case what kind of ups or specs should i look into...b/c right now even though im using a ups its not working the way its supposed to i dont feel safe without a ups since i live in florida..and summer rains and thunderstorms are gonna be upon me almost everyday...
No problem. I just use the UPS to even out small dips in the power at my house. When someone in the house turns on the vacuum cleaner, it trips the UPS, so I need it only for small power sags. I don't really care about run time as long as it is more that 30 seconds or so.
I think the 350 in the name means 350 Volt Amps, relating to the amount of power stored in the battery. mine is the 650VA version of that. I am not sure how to tell how much your computer needs, but there are calculators that seem to do that.
As far as which to buy, there was a buying guide somewhere that talked in detail about different features. I remember that AVR was mentioned as being a good idea, as well as the line interactive topology. I would start at the calculator and see what you can afford. If you really need a true sine output UPS, it may be kinda expensive. Like I said, I don't need mine to last for a long time, so for the few seconds that it needs to operate it seems to work just fine.