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Uh oh. Exploded Antec PS and some questions...

if-away

n00b
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
8
Basically about a year ago I purchased a new computer. It includes a 2.6c and a sapphire ati 9800. The video card has been “modded” to a 9800 pro. For the case I purchased the Antec sonata and it came with a powersupply, one which I always considered good, Antec true power 380W. I thought it would be enough for my system…

Now about the power consumption of my case… I have no lights or extra fans. The case has an 80mm fan at the back and the mobo is an IC7-Max3 which has a little otes cooling system with a fan and the usual mobo stuff. There is also the modded 9800pro which draws power but other than that I have cd-rom and a hard drive along with a floppy. Nothing else…

Throughout the course of the year I noticed various power fluctuation like symptoms, basically my screen would flicker on the edges for a fraction of a second. It is hard to describe but you could compare it with the visual effect of little drops of water flowing on the side of the monitor. It was fuzzy and lasted for a short period of time. On some occasions the whole screen would flicker like it was about to shut off but since it happened so fast it wouldn’t, it would be like turning a tv off by unplugging the cord and then putting it back in very fast so that you don’t fully lose the picture. Well as I’ve said it is hard to describe.

I’ve attributed this weird behavior to my old monitor(6+ years) and the new house in which I live. I assumed it since it might be new there might be some weird power fluctuations that will go away with time…

On Saturday I was playing doom3 and all of a sudden my computer turned off just like someone unplugged it. After a quick “WTF??!?” I reached down and pressed the power button to power it up again. I was greeted with a loud “BOOM”, followed by smoke coming out the power supply and the lovely smell of something burning. This never happened to me before, I’m a computer newb(although I built this PC alone) and it totally freaked me out. The first idea was that I burned the whole thing and the mobo, processor and video card are all dead. Eventually I got this noname 200W or so power supply from an ancient computer, put it on the current one and tested out the my pc. It was working so the power supply was the only affected thing. The next day I purchased an Enermax 460W PS and I’m using it right now. The problem is that about twice I noticed small monitor flickers with this new ps! They aren’t as often and as powerful as the ones with the old Antec PS but they still are there. Now I have an extra 80Watts and they still occur.

Any idea why? Isn’t 460W enough for a set up like mine? Is there something eating more power?

Should I call Antec and request a brand new PS from them? I guess they have some warranty but I didn’t want to wait weeks without a working computer so I purchased a different one… If Antec can send me a brand new one I guess I can sell it at a very reduced price to a friend. Does Antec cover this sort of issues?
 
Ummm... how exactly is your monitor connected to your power supply? Last time checked your monitor uses a different plug then your computer. That crap you're seeing in your screen could be because of your video card. But I doubt it. If your house power isn't very good I would invest in a backup power unit, and or a line conditioner. That will save your system from all these surges.
Look at this link if you're not sure what im taking about.
http://www.apc.com/products/category.cfm?id=13
 
My monitor isn't connected to the powersupply. It is connected normally to the back of the pc but I guess when a deviation in current happens my monitor acts strange...
 
yes, but you're monitor doesn't draw power from that VGA plug in the back of your video card....the problem is the power coming from the wall...witch is what your monitor is also pluged into.
 
Sounds to me like a classical case of 'dirty' power. This would slowly kill a PSU.

An UPS should fix it.
 
Elledan said:
Sounds to me like a classical case of 'dirty' power. This would slowly kill a PSU.

Took the words right out of my mouth...
 
Thanks for all the replies.

Would this be enough? I'm quite tight on money...

This is 35$ canadian
10029229.jpg


This is 40$ canadian
BE325-CN.jpg


This is 70$ canadian

pr-APC_Back-UPS_ES_350_BE350U_UPS_System-resized200.jpg


Which one would you suggest?
 
None of those units filter the power. Only the SmartUPS line includes conditioning. Clean power ain't cheap...
 
Surge protectors will help against voltage surges, but will do nothing against brownouts, i.e. a sudden drop in voltage, below tolerance levels.

Brownouts will gradually destroy a PSU. The only way to protect against brownouts is to use an UPS, which will detect drops in voltage and switch to its battery when this happens.

On a sidenote, cheaper surge protectors use MOVs, which are damaged slightly every time they deal with a surge. This will render them useless in a couple of years or even less than a year, depending on what the mains power is like.
 
As I've said before I'm a newb so forgive my ignorance on this...
The Smart-UPS line up starts at 500$ or so canadian. There is no way I can afford that...


Surge protectors will help against voltage surges, but will do nothing against brownouts, i.e. a sudden drop in voltage, below tolerance levels.

Brownouts will gradually destroy a PSU. The only way to protect against brownouts is to use an UPS, which will detect drops in voltage and switch to its battery when this happens.

But what messes me up is that the 3rd image I provided was a APC Back-UPS (BE350U). Since this is an "UPS" shouldn't that be able to actually defend against the burnounts and solve my problem? or it must be a "Smart-UPS" as the guy above you said? Basically regardless of quality/price/model of "Back-UPS" they are useless to me and I need only a "Smart-UPS"? If that is the case then I might as well just leave it as it is right now considering how much a "Smart-UPS" costs...
 
an for reference purposes only

avoid ferroresonant transformers with modern PSUs they dont like to play well with each other
(I know I tried :p )

(a ferroresonant transformer will deal with both surges and brownouts)
 
if-away said:
But what messes me up is that the 3rd image I provided was a APC Back-UPS (BE350U). Since this is an "UPS" shouldn't that be able to actually defend against the burnounts and solve my problem? or it must be a "Smart-UPS" as the guy above you said? Basically regardless of quality/price/model of "Back-UPS" they are useless to me and I need only a "Smart-UPS"? If that is the case then I might as well just leave it as it is right now considering how much a "Smart-UPS" costs...
Pretty much any decent UPS will do.

I'm using a couple of cheap UPSs (1000 VA for EUR 120 or so) for some of my equipment, and they seem to work fine, not much worse than the 650 VA MGE UPS I use on my main system.
 
It all depends on whether it is a standby-style or line-interactive UPS. A standby-style like the BackUPS only runs off the batteries once power drops or rises to a certain level, providing only surge protection on the wall voltage, whereas as SmartUPS runs off the batteries 24/7 providing clean power from those batteries, no chance on anything from the wall interferring
 
Vertigo Acid said:
It all depends on whether it is a standby-style or line-interactive UPS. A standby-style like the BackUPS only runs off the batteries once power drops or rises to a certain level, providing only surge protection on the wall voltage, whereas as SmartUPS runs off the batteries 24/7 providing clean power from those batteries, no chance on anything from the wall interferring
A line-interactive ('on-line') UPS is overkill for all but the most demanding situations. The small sags or spikes in the voltage delivered to the equipment are usually too small to do any kind of harm.

BTW, a line-interactive UPS doesn't run completely off its batteries. Only part (10% or so) of the power comes from the battery, with the rest coming (through a filter) straight from the outlet. If an UPS were to use its batteries in the way you described, they would be dead within months, if not weeks.
 
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