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Tube sizing explanations
- Thread starter Tilde84
- Start date
nobody_here
[H]F Junkie
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2006
- Messages
- 8,877
ID = inner diameter
OD = outer diameter
match inner diameter of tubing to outer diameter of barbs/fittings since the tubing slides over the barb/fitting
OD = outer diameter
match inner diameter of tubing to outer diameter of barbs/fittings since the tubing slides over the barb/fitting
just get 7/16ID masterkleer for .44 a foot from mcmaster.com
get the 3/32 wall thickness stuff not the thinner wall
put it on 1/2" barbs using boiling or near boiling water to soften it enough to push it over the 1/2 barbs.
once it cools you'll have to cut it off .....
i don't even use clamps half the time it's so tight.
mal
get the 3/32 wall thickness stuff not the thinner wall
put it on 1/2" barbs using boiling or near boiling water to soften it enough to push it over the 1/2 barbs.
once it cools you'll have to cut it off .....
i don't even use clamps half the time it's so tight.
mal
thanks so much, im in the process of buying my kit all at once.
I have some other misc. questions:
1. Im buying from Jab-tech are they pretty reliable?( i was going w/ petra, but there wiped out)
2. For additive I just want to use distilled water with d-tek UV dye, will just adding some biocide be enough for corrosion, etc?
I have some other misc. questions:
1. Im buying from Jab-tech are they pretty reliable?( i was going w/ petra, but there wiped out)
2. For additive I just want to use distilled water with d-tek UV dye, will just adding some biocide be enough for corrosion, etc?
nobody_here
[H]F Junkie
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2006
- Messages
- 8,877
well, good luck with it, i had a nice setup at one time, cost alot, took alot of time too, not to mention having to do regular checks for leaks, making it so the pump cut on and off automatically with the PC so my wife could use it without burning it up, etc.....eventually i got a small leak, fixed it, got another, fixed it, on and on....after about a year i decided it was not worth it and sold it all and just went with good air cooling, H2O was a phase for me that went out pretty fast
everybody is different
i had a couple leaks in the beginning
haven't had a single drop out of the last 5 loops or so i built
i LOVE watercooling and it's 100% worth it to me and I don't see myself going back ever
so yea .... everybody is different
my best advice ... just buy the best stuff the first time and be done with it
most people try to dip their toe in watercooling and get like a single 120mm rad and a weak ass pump and a koolance block lol .... zing
just get the best stuff out there and be done with it ....
the only place i'd say maybe don't get the best product available is the rad because the thermochills are SO freaking expensive
i got my BIP3 for 30 bucks and it's works well enough for two blocks
there isn't such a huge variance in price for the other components
pump = petra's ddc
block = fusion, gtx, mp-05 LE, storm
i personally have a D5 and wish i had a petra DDC
D5 = heat dump and less head than ddc and makes more noise too...
decent pump though for what it is ... just not the "best"
i personally have a mp-05 LE an LOVE it
i had a couple leaks in the beginning
haven't had a single drop out of the last 5 loops or so i built
i LOVE watercooling and it's 100% worth it to me and I don't see myself going back ever
so yea .... everybody is different
my best advice ... just buy the best stuff the first time and be done with it
most people try to dip their toe in watercooling and get like a single 120mm rad and a weak ass pump and a koolance block lol .... zing
just get the best stuff out there and be done with it ....
the only place i'd say maybe don't get the best product available is the rad because the thermochills are SO freaking expensive
i got my BIP3 for 30 bucks and it's works well enough for two blocks
there isn't such a huge variance in price for the other components
pump = petra's ddc
block = fusion, gtx, mp-05 LE, storm
i personally have a D5 and wish i had a petra DDC
D5 = heat dump and less head than ddc and makes more noise too...
decent pump though for what it is ... just not the "best"
i personally have a mp-05 LE an LOVE it
Thanks, I'll post pics in the proj. thread although its really more of a mini project. Well my list is:
d-tek fuzion
Maze 4 GPU
Swiftech MCR-220
Petra's ddc-2
10' of 7/16 Masterkleer
fillport+t-line
Pentosin G11 and d-tek clear UV blue dye
some clamps
d-tek fuzion
Maze 4 GPU
Swiftech MCR-220
Petra's ddc-2
10' of 7/16 Masterkleer
fillport+t-line
Pentosin G11 and d-tek clear UV blue dye
some clamps
Drop the Maze 4, get the MCW60's or the D-Tek GFX's instead. An EK FC will also be great if you prefer a simple to install FC block and don't mind paying a little more.
Arcygenical
Fully [H]
- Joined
- Jun 10, 2005
- Messages
- 25,066
Yep... Exactly.
damn, already bought it, well we'll see how I feel bout it when it arrives. Been w/o my own 'puter for 2 weeks
Never too late to RMA!
In regards to tubing,
7/16" ID = less space taken up, tighter grips on barbs
1/2" ID = more flow, allows for tighter bends
The differences are there, but I really find them negligible for the most part.
Why all this talk about tube sizing when your cooling (wheather 3/4" or 6mm) will have the least overall affect on overclocking? Motherboard, RAM, CPU stepping, power supply, etc have a much larger impact on your overclock than what size tubing you use.
You will notice most people achieve the same overclocks, or within %5, with air cooling.
If you are shooting for overall quite computing, ignore my post.
Just my 2 cents.
You will notice most people achieve the same overclocks, or within %5, with air cooling.
If you are shooting for overall quite computing, ignore my post.
Just my 2 cents.
buffbiff21
Gawd
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2006
- Messages
- 1,014
Larger ID tubing = more flow = lower temps = more headroom for OC.
Of course it's not much
but some people like to squeeze as much performance possible.
Larger ID tubing = more flow = lower temps = more headroom for OC.
Of course it's not much
but some people like to squeeze as much performance possible.
You are missing the point.... The overclock difference is 0-3 percent based on 1-4c (which is about the difference between the medium to high end cooling) temp difference at best. You can have a 0-100 percent overclock with proper motherboard, cpu, ram, power supply with stock cooling.
The point is the ID of the tubing is most likely not the reason for a failed overclock.
buffbiff21
Gawd
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2006
- Messages
- 1,014
Cooling is more related towards sustaining an overclock rather than achieving one. Achieving a high overclock is pretty much based on the luck of the draw on your CPU stepping with disregard to us few who are insane and have huge mounts of time to vmod our mobo, etc.
I think he meant "what size tubing would best help me sustain a large overclock by keeping temps down"
I think he meant "what size tubing would best help me sustain a large overclock by keeping temps down"
Prelim reports say the Maze 5 doesn't fit the R600 from ATI. 8800's should be fine with the Maze 5. But if you want compatibility with past, current and future generations, I'd consider the MCW60, D-Tek GFX, or EK's upcoming GPU only block.
