To reservoir or not to reservoir? That is the question.

Pooky said:
And? I didn't say it was quiet nor did I say it looked better, I merely said we both use it and it works. I didn't say it will beat every thing out there either. Looks are subjective. I have a 1/2" system as well, and I happen to like all sorts of waterblocks (I have an original Whitewater) and am looking into buying a Maze2 for an older system. I don't care to berate others for not seeing eye to eye, so I don't bother with most of you Pro Cooling folks.
Click to expand...

you said " it's engineering versus brute force" like german blocks are finely crafted by teams of thermodynamic engineers while american blocks are just slabs of copper that have gallons of water dumped on them. im not berating you for "not seeing eye to eye" im telling you that you are wrong.
 
hmmm, how about instead of a reservoir, we have a dual pipe nozzle that you route out the back of the case and then just stick inside a gallon jug of distilled water. Have to come up with some basic seal mechanism for the top, and then just have the two nozzles end at different lengths inside the jug of water.

Once evaporation runs you low, just swap in a new jug.

Wouldn't look too pretty, but might work pretty good.

Other than space considerations, are there technical reasons not to make reservoirs bigger than most of the current ones are? I have this feeling that the one I have now would work much better if it were twice as deep.
 
kronchev said:
you said " it's engineering versus brute force" like german blocks are finely crafted by teams of thermodynamic engineers while american blocks are just slabs of copper that have gallons of water dumped on them. im not berating you for "not seeing eye to eye" im telling you that you are wrong.
Click to expand...

Well said.


I think our friend would do well to spend some time reading Pro Cooling. Just because people aren't friendly enough for your taste doesn't mean you can't learn a hell of a lot from them.
 
firtol88 said:
Well said.


I think our friend would do well to spend some time reading Pro Cooling. Just because people aren't friendly enough for your taste doesn't mean you can't learn a hell of a lot from them.
Click to expand...

I'm not your friend sir. I merely stated my opinion, and as opinions are again subjective, that means what? I love my Aqua Computer system, if you feel the need to take my opinions and squish them like little bugs on the ground, go right ahead. Perhaps in the Future I'll say German engineering vs American engineering (and Australlian engineering for that one block I own) so no one will assume I'm trying to imply one is special and the other is thrown together. Heck, if I had reliable tools I'd make a #Rotor block for myself.

P.S. I happen to read Pro Cooling all the time.
 
Its interesting that one witty comment by an innocent bystander gets people worked up enough for something close to a flame war...

There is no need for this, as long as we don't have some specs for, say, a Cuplex Pro (Aqua Computer's top model) And let's say a Danger Den TDX, specs as in Flow ratecompared to maximum thermal dissipation at a given temperature.

Otherwisee, it's no use to argue. Period.
 
Little Grabbi said:
Its interesting that one witty comment by an innocent bystander gets people worked up enough for something close to a flame war...

There is no need for this, as long as we don't have some specs for, say, a Cuplex Pro (Aqua Computer's top model) And let's say a Danger Den TDX, specs as in Flow ratecompared to maximum thermal dissipation at a given temperature.

Otherwisee, it's no use to argue. Period.
Click to expand...

:)

Cathar has a small comparison of a NexXxos HP block agaisnt his Cascade SS on Pro Cooling. The results aren't that horrible for the German block. The only thing I don't like is that he (and when pH reviews them he probably won't either) use true 1/4" hose. If the small ID of the hose is really restrictive, why not use it to show that it is instead of converting everything to 1/2"? Little G's right though, there's no need to argue, use whichever style you prefer, simple as that.
 
I've used a T-line and now a Criticool and although the Criticool is much easier to fill and bleed it has done precisely nothing for the actual cooling efficiency. If you can spare the time to allow your system to bleed with a T-line, it will work just as well once the system is bled.
 
I've switched back and forth from a T-line to a res a few times in the past before, but I think a res is a bit more for enhancing looks, if anything. I tend to use UV dyes now, and a res has a nice way of showing nice and glowy water.
 
Pooky said:
I've switched back and forth from a T-line to a res a few times in the past before, but I think a res is a bit more for enhancing looks, if anything. I tend to use UV dyes now, and a res has a nice way of showing nice and glowy water.
Click to expand...

Speaking of which, if I put some UV dye in my soon to be watercooled setup what sort of effect will that have on performance? I would assume that there would be none, but I just want to be 100% sure. Also, where might I get some good UV dye?
 
As long as you keep the dye to a low percentage (1 to 2 drops per litre or so, the same as you would for anti corrosive agents like water wetter) it shouldn't have any effect on cooling power. I'm using Aqua Computer green Glowmotion dye, I seen other dyes elsehwere, but it's just as expensive. SNT (www.snt-systems.com) carries Glowmotion in green, blue and, clear blue now. Wildfire Dyes (never used it, but have seen it at various stores) comes in red, yellow, blue, clear blue, orange and green (I think - I could be off a color or two). The difference between blue and clear blue is clear blue is invisible under normal light and has a faint blue hue when placed under UV, and reg blue can be seen under normal light (it won't be blue though), but has a brighter glow under UV.
 
Dijonase said:
Speaking of which, if I put some UV dye in my soon to be watercooled setup what sort of effect will that have on performance? I would assume that there would be none, but I just want to be 100% sure. Also, where might I get some good UV dye?
Click to expand...

SNT systems has some pretty good UV dye and related supplies. They are also the U.S. supplier of the :drum roll: Aqua computer watercooling systems that seem to provoke so many arguments on this board. Love them or hate them, they still look cool. (Not that that counts for too much) (the watercooling gear that is)
 
Dye and AC fluid don't matter much, love or hate Aqua Computer, the dye is still usable anywhere. I've ordered from SNT quite a bit, great service and Dan is an accesible guy.
 
Pooky said:
I'm not your friend sir. I merely stated my opinion, and as opinions are again subjective, that means what? I love my Aqua Computer system, if you feel the need to take my opinions and squish them like little bugs on the ground, go right ahead. Perhaps in the Future I'll say German engineering vs American engineering (and Australlian engineering for that one block I own) so no one will assume I'm trying to imply one is special and the other is thrown together. Heck, if I had reliable tools I'd make a #Rotor block for myself.

P.S. I happen to read Pro Cooling all the time.
Click to expand...

:rolleyes: The problem being that by your statement you are helping to further a common misconception, which causes numerous problems for many proponents of water-cooling. When Joe noob reads your account he assumes a low flow kit being "better engineered" will allow him to keep his high overclock without the noise associated with his huge heatsink and 12 5000 RPM fans. Joe noob buys a low flow kit and when he finds his air cooling allowed an equal or slightly higher overclock becomes the eternal detractor "water cooling sucks, air is much better". If your “brute force vs. real engineering” was even remotely accurate or as harmless as you proclaim then it would be purely a matter of opinion. Hell it’s everyone’s responsibility to clear up dis or misinformation on these forums especially a type that has caused detrimental effects. Would you not chime in on someone claiming that there was no benefit of going from 512MB to 1024? If the performance is acceptable to you, that is wonderful, but please don’t muddy the waters by inferring that you can achieve equal performance with a low flow setup.

/rant off :eek:

Just though your clarification required more clarification. :D
Pooky said:
...so no one will assume I'm trying to imply one is special and the other is thrown together...
Click to expand...
 
I could argue all I want, and it will just onctinue on and on. I have my reasons, you have yours. I know many who will back low and those who will back high. For god sakes though, it's just another way of cooling a CPU.

Just to let you know, with my low flow setup, I cool my CPU, GPU, Chipset, Hard drive1 and soon to be hard drive 2 with a nice low flow Eheim 1046. I use 2 loud ass CRE Air Green LED fans and I get pretty good temps al around. Of course that means nothing, but I like it. That should be all that matters at any rate.

There is a thread on Pro Cooling about kits and their negative impact on water cooling. Low flow is nothing like those kits at all. Oh well, nevermind.
 
Little Grabbi said:
YES!!!

Now will you guys please take the lo/hi-debate out of a reservoir thread? Thanks.
Click to expand...

I'm done with that.

Buy a ressy, and buy some UV die, and get a UV cathode. Your eyes will thank you.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top