Thinking about getting back into it, but really need some help.

[computerpro3]

Well since the ambients in my dorm room are usually around 80-85f even in the winter because of all the electronics in it, I'm thinking of going watercooling again. My e6850 is idling at 60C at only 1.45v/3.8ghz. Even if I turn it down to stock it idles around 50. There's only so much the good old scythe infinity/yate loon combo can do when ambients are so high.

My computer is as follows:

e6850@3.8ghz
EVGA 8800GTX @ 644/940
Asus p5k Deluxe
4GB OCZ pc1066
Zippy 700w
silverstone TJ07

Basically my goal is to create the best loop I possibly can for no more than $300. I'd love to be able to leave cooling capacity for SLI later on, but if that's not possible on my budget, that's fine.

This is where I'm at:

CPU block: no idea...is the Eddy EK block even out yet? What's quite simply the best performing block on the market?

Radiator: PA 120.3. Apparantly still the best.

Pump: Will the DDC with Petra's top handle everything?

GPU Block: waiting for the 9800's before I add GPU in loop.

Res: Here's where I'm really stuck. I would absolutely, absolutely love to use the Aquacomputer Aquabay with the 5.25 bay mounting kit. I know that AQ gear had an overpriced/underperforming rep when I was picking out my last system, but that res looks incredible.

The problem at the time was that the fittings were way to small for the rest of my stuff. What size tubing should I use for my new loop, and is there any way possible to use the aquabay without compromising performance?

Thanks!

 

[sd11]

1. Still the best but costly, with a 300 budget you might want to move down to the swiftech mcr320. Not a bad product, not in the same class as the PA, but pretty damn good compared to the rest out there and doesn't cost a fortune.

2. Yes the pump will, as long as you don't run a lot of restrictive blocks. I'm pushing through everything in my loop with a single DDC and it's not an issue, but I'm not going for gangbuster OC's either.

3. Don't touch that res. IIRC it has ALU which is a deal breaker right there unless you're the type of chap that enjoys porking hookers with aids and hoping the condom doesn't break. Second look at some of the "AC reviews" and the comments made by those pimping their products... it's rather scary and asinine at the same time. All you really need is a t-line which drains faster then a res, for sheer bleeding the mcres is amazing.

The problem at the time was that the fittings were way to small for the rest of my stuff. What size tubing should I use for my new loop, and is there any way possible to use the aquabay without compromising performance?

Tubing size doesn't matter that much unless you're going for a great OC. A res doesn't matter for performance regardless, it's an ease of use item. I don't use 1/2 ID (which is the best but by a hair) I went with 3/8 ID for ease of use.

 

[computerpro3]

Thanks for the help. I thought that since the Aquabay was anodized it wouldn't matter, but better safe than sorry. I remember a while back Eddy EK had a prototype res that looked similar - did that ever see the light of day?

The thing is that with my loop, I am going for massive overclocks with relatively low noise. Not silent, but not whining loud either. I'm going to be using yate loon fans. What is the performance difference between the swiftech and the PA - and will the swiftech be able to handle SLI eventually?

 

[Xilikon]

EK reservoir is already out with a lot of variations :

http://ekwaterblocks.com/shop/index.php?cPath=26&sort=2a&language=en

Pick what you want

Never ever touch anything which have aluminium in it, no matter how it's coated. Anodizing doesn't protect against corrosion at all.

 

[silent-circuit]

A single 3x120 isn't going to support a high clocked dual core and SLI, PA or otherwise. You'll be better off with two loops -- one for GPU, one for CPU. A 2x120 for the CPU, or a 3x120 if you want to include the north and southbridge chips. A 3x120 for the GPUs if you intend to go SLI at any point. I'd go with the Swiftechs (I did) to cut down on cost. If you have the space for more rads the extra cost of the PA series really isn't worthwhile.

Yes, it's a ton of surface area, but if you want 'massive OCs' while keeping noise down... that's what you have to do.

CPU block wise, I'd say D-Tek Fuzion or maybe Swiftech Apogee GT/GTX.

1/2" ID is all the rage, and barbs are easy to come by. I plan to switch over to all 1/2" ID barbs/tubing shortly in place of the Aqua Computer Plug n' Cool fittings I'm using now. (Yes, my loop is a regular Frankenstein's monster and it's only getting 'worse')

 

[sd11]

Thanks for the help. I thought that since the Aquabay was anodized it wouldn't matter, but better safe than sorry. I remember a while back Eddy EK had a prototype res that looked similar - did that ever see the light of day?

The thing is that with my loop, I am going for massive overclocks with relatively low noise. Not silent, but not whining loud either. I'm going to be using yate loon fans. What is the performance difference between the swiftech and the PA - and will the swiftech be able to handle SLI eventually?

Massive OC's you're looking at multiple loops, no aqua stuff, 1/2 id tubing.

Yate loons can be silent, but you'll need a PA. I don't under volt mine and they are not silent work fine with the switech rads, but again performance isn't quite as good. I went with the switech rad because 1. it's pretty much the second best option, 2. I had a lot of them sitting around, and 3. I couldn't find PA's in stock at the time.

The issue with rads for large OC's is simple. For a quadcore you need a dual 120mm, for those dual GPU's that's another dual, preferably a tripple. I'm pushing dual 8800 gts, dual core cpu, mosfet/chipset through a single tripple 120 with another 120 backing it up.... still leaves a LOT to be desired.

Never ever touch anything which have aluminium in it, no matter how it's coated. Anodizing doesn't protect against corrosion at all.

So true. You'll find some bold faced liars that claim up and down ALU won't cause corrosion at all when used with proper additives. The truth is additives just slow it down by a lot, still goes on. Anodizing helps, plating is best but even then all it takes is a pin scratch and it's not effective anymore.

A single 3x120 isn't going to support a high clocked dual core and SLI, PA or otherwise. You'll be better off with two loops -- one for GPU, one for CPU.

I agree but case size is of importance as well. In my TJ-09 I had everything (dual 8800gts, core2 cpu, mosfets, chipset) all of a single MCR 320 with only a CPU OC, wasn't the best but did the job. I had to keep fitting in extra 120mm rads to move heat.

I'm not about to advise the mountain mods case, with tripple loop, madness that is needed for a top of the line water OC, and not because of the massive cost, but because anybody that is asking probably isn't looking for that.

 

[computerpro3]

I could fit a triple swiftech and a dual swiftech in the bottom of my tj07...would that be sufficient for the sli setup or do i really need to blow the cash on the triple and dual PA's?

It's kinda irritating that a triple 120mm used to be more than anyone could imagine needing and now it's the bare minimum. Can't even build a decent WC rig for under $500 nowadays if you're running top of the line hardware....

Perhaps it's only worth wcing the CPU...that's the main cause of the instability at high temps....

It's times like these when I wish I never sold my phase change. Anyone else go through cooling cycles? Air, then water, than phase, said screw it and went back to air, then water, than phase again then air and now I'm going back to water....

 

[ikellensbro]

I could fit a triple swiftech and a dual swiftech in the bottom of my tj07...would that be sufficient for the sli setup or do i really need to blow the cash on the triple and dual PA's?

It's kinda irritating that a triple 120mm used to be more than anyone could imagine needing and now it's the bare minimum. Can't even build a decent WC rig for under $500 nowadays if you're running top of the line hardware....

Perhaps it's only worth wcing the CPU...that's the main cause of the instability at high temps....

The biggest gripe now is GPUs eschewing efficiency for raw performance. With lower nm cores things are improving a bit, if you can call recent cards an improvement. Hopefully Nvidia and ATI will work a little more on efficiency, like the 3800 series compared to the 2900 disaster, for their next major revision. CPUs are pretty efficient compared to PresHots, but dual/quad cores with major voltage bumps are still pretty hot.

For a CPU (and even NB/other low heat components if you want), a 2x120 radiator is fine unless you want your fans as quiet as 5V Nexuses. GPUs can give off a lot of heat, so that's where the dual loop suggestion primarily comes from. If you want to wait to water cool you GPU(s), an MCR220 will be plenty for the time being.

A DDC by itself is fine, and it'll perform even better with a top. Yes, you can use an Aquatube if you really want, although I personally don't really like the use of aluminum, potential added restriction with the AquaInlet (which does give a cool spraying effect though), and high cost (even more than EKs, which I also think are expensive, but still cool). If you want to use an AquaInlet, make sure you mount the Aquatube horizontally in 5 1/2" bays like you mentioned, otherwise you might get some bubbles from too much pumping power for the design. Several other companies make Aquatube knockoffs as well (some without aluminum), so shop around as well.

1/2" tubing is really unnecessary. 7/16"id and even 3/8"id tubing really has no noticeable OCloss compared to 1/2"id, and has much less bulk. I personally love 7/16"id-5/8"od tubing, because it can handle most tight bends easily, fits over 1/2" barbs relatively easily for a perfect seal, and takes up the same amount of room as 3/8"id tubing.

If you have the money for another pump, a GPU(s) only loop is great to have. A 2x120 rad should be enough for SLI/Crossfire (not 2900xt level heat, but G92s should be cooler than 8800GTXs). Another DDC or D5 will make a great GPU only loop, and most importantly keep the GPU heat away from your proc.