The WC Thread: You got questions, we got answers!

are you watercooling the vid card also?

what's your budget?

how handy are you?
 
Hey guys...I'm planning on doing a watercooling set up. I've researched this section and countless others and I've chosen the products listed below. I'll be watercooling the CPU, the northbridge (if I can find a block for the 650i chipset) and later the GPU (one of the newer dx10 cards)

I've gone ahead and listed a few choices for each. I'm only confused about the radiator and the reservoir.


CPU Block -

1. D-Tek Fuzion - $60
http://www.dtekcustoms.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=182

2. Swiftech MCW6500-775T Thermoelectric Water Block - $155
http://www.swiftech.com/products/mcw6500-T1.asp
This prob will not work. I've heard of condensation issues and other more expensive parts I'd need but just putting it in here if I'm wrong.

Radiator

1. Black Ice X-Flow Xtreme III- $62.95
http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=200&cat=85&page=1

2. Thermochill PA120.3- $135
http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=205

Or maybe the Black Ice® GTX480- $160
http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=261&cat=5&page=1


Pump

1. Swiftech MCP350 12 VDC Pump- $65
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16835108081&ATT=35-108-081&CMP=OTC-Froogle

2. ?

I'm left with tubing and a reservoir.

Anything else I should consider? I have the Stacker 830 Evo and I'd like to try and mount it inside. If needed I can also mod the case.
 
Fanaticalmoose said:
i want to water cooler the CPU, Vid card, and the NB...

budget would be around $150-300.... (this includes for the whole WC system)...
Click to expand...


CPU block - D-Tez Fuzion -$65
Radiator - Thermochill PA120.3 or the newer GTX480 - $150
http://www.hwlabs.com/gen2/gtx/gtx480.htm
Pump - Swifttech MCP350 - $60
Danger Den 8800 GTX - $135
http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=257&cat=48&page=1
Danger Den 680i Chipset Block - $42.94
http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=258&cat=46&page=1

Adds up to $450 approx. Kinda expensive but I don't know what you could substitute and get similar performance? Take out the GPU block and you're slightly over $300.
*I think* these are good components. I'm sure someone with a better understanding can guide you and myself a little better
 
MrSuge said:
CPU block - D-Tez Fuzion -$65
Radiator - Thermochill PA120.3 or the newer GTX480 - $150
http://www.hwlabs.com/gen2/gtx/gtx480.htm
Pump - Swifttech MCP350 - $60
Danger Den 8800 GTX - $135
http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=257&cat=48&page=1
Danger Den 680i Chipset Block - $42.94
http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=258&cat=46&page=1

Adds up to $450 approx. Kinda expensive but I don't know what you could substitute and get similar performance? Take out the GPU block and you're slightly over $300.
*I think* these are good components. I'm sure someone with a better understanding can guide you and myself a little better
Click to expand...
When someone says $150-$300, they don't mean $450, which is too much anyway:

If you still wanted to keep a chipset block: http://www.petrastechshop.com/swmcchco.html ($30) saves $12

For a $300 budget, spending close to half of it for a gpu block is too much:http://www.petrastechshop.com/dfucpugpuco.html ($108) (FuZion + FuZion GPU block) + $10 for ramsinks saves $82
Yes, the PA120.3/GTX480 are great radiators. They are also $150. http://www.petrastechshop.com/swmcqposerab1.html + $30 for fans ($85) still saves $65 (save another $20 if you can only git a 2x120 rad)

Add $60 for a DDC, and we're just under $300 without including $20 or so for tubing, clamps, additives, etc. (not to mention shipping - buy from one place when possible). If you already have fans, that saves a couple more bucks, but the biggest remaining money saver would be to cut out the chipset block. A nice undervolted 120mm intake fan should keep your NB nice and cool if it has a large heatsink or heatpipe setup (if the latter, you would need to add some ramsinks if you get a NB block).
 
I've got the EVGA 680i A1 mobo and was wondering what to use for a back plate. I know about the thermalright one but I can't find anybody who has it in stock. Are there any other ones that I can use?

Also I jsut got some D-tek alien green UV dye and put some in a bottle of water to see what it looked like. To me it was more of a yellow than that bright green they show on their website. No I'm not colorblind, I can see that question coming, and the bottle says alien green on it. Does anybody else have this stuff and does it look similar to what I'm seeing or more like what D-tek picture shows?
 
i think i'll b going watercooling again as soon as its summer time. but i'll b doing a couple things differently. first, i'll get those hose clamps on lol :rolleyes: while I was repositioning my pump last summer, one of the tubes popped off while the pump was on, and the liquid spewed all over my parts :eek: i was all freaked out. but yea everything was ok. i just dried em and amazingly they actually worked. so yea, this time i'll be doing a couple things differently. probably gonna use a t-line, i hated using the reservoir, since it always leaked or i spilled it. and i could never get the water to fill correctly into the tubing, instead it just filled up in the res, so yea thats gotta go.

So i heres my original set up.
img5620hk3.jpg

Heres a couple question I have:
1. As you guys can see, i was using 2 80mm fans to cool the 2x120mm heatercore. yea i know cheap, i'll probably go buy some quiet 120mm yateloons everyones always talking about. also does it matter that the fans are directly laying against the heatercore? Or should i have them spaced out on the top and the bottom of the heatercore?
2. How should I mount the eheim 1250 pump? Its really bulky so I have a hard time findin a good spot to put it in, and it tends to vibrate A LOT so i needa some how dampen it but I was thinking may b to drill some holes in the bottom of the case and just screw it in like that, but I'm worried that it'll end up shaking the whole case apart. I also saw on petras tech shop that they're selling some kinda gel shock absorber, so I guess i could also get one of those, but its not really helpful since the pump will be free to slide around the case. Any ideas?
3. When adding a t-line wheres the best place to put it, is it just b4 the pump? Also how long does the tubing need to be for the t-line. cuz if i turn off the pump i don't want the lvls in the t-line to go over and start spewing all over the case. and should i have a t-line extending up to a hole at the top of the case to pour into or just one that sticks up a little bit such that i can cap it when i need and tilt outside of the case and pour into it when i need to refill it.

Thats all the questions i really have at the moment. Thanks guys.
 
themanwithnoname said:
Heres a couple question I have:
1. As you guys can see, i was using 2 80mm fans to cool the 2x120mm heatercore. yea i know cheap, i'll probably go buy some quiet 120mm yateloons everyones always talking about. also does it matter that the fans are directly laying against the heatercore? Or should i have them spaced out on the top and the bottom of the heatercore?
2. How should I mount the eheim 1250 pump? Its really bulky so I have a hard time findin a good spot to put it in, and it tends to vibrate A LOT so i needa some how dampen it but I was thinking may b to drill some holes in the bottom of the case and just screw it in like that, but I'm worried that it'll end up shaking the whole case apart. I also saw on petras tech shop that they're selling some kinda gel shock absorber, so I guess i could also get one of those, but its not really helpful since the pump will be free to slide around the case. Any ideas?
3. When adding a t-line wheres the best place to put it, is it just b4 the pump? Also how long does the tubing need to be for the t-line. cuz if i turn off the pump i don't want the lvls in the t-line to go over and start spewing all over the case. and should i have a t-line extending up to a hole at the top of the case to pour into or just one that sticks up a little bit such that i can cap it when i need and tilt outside of the case and pour into it when i need to refill it.

Thats all the questions i really have at the moment. Thanks guys.
Click to expand...
1. You want to try and give your fans a gap between the fan and the surface of your heater core for a couple of reasons. First, it eliminates the "dead spot" in the center of the fans, where no air is flowing. Second, giving some space (using a shroud) reduces noise and increases cooling by likely covering a greater fin area.

2. With a larger pump, sticking in the front where a hard drive cage would be (like you have it right now) is pretty common. To quiet it down, you don't have to use Petra's gel pads (you'd need at least 2 for your 1250 anyway), just something that provides solid cushioning. I currently use some layered small bubble wrap and a couple crushed packing peanuts. Not the prettiest thing in the world, but it works.

3. You'll want to give yourself at least 6 inches or so in your T-line if you want extended maintenence-free use. Over time, you'll likely lose some fluid due to water slowly evaporating and permeating through your tubing. This is natural, so giving yourself a few inches of water in reserve never hurts. Many people nowadays use Fillports (as made by DangerDen/others, or homemade) in the top or another high part of the case. This allows an easy external access to fill/top off your loop as well as hold the T-line's tubing. If you want to keep your reservoir (or get another one) you'd primarily be using your T-line for filling, so give at least 6 inches or so to be safe and convenient. If you plan on redoing your loop, I highly recommend a long T-line, because it makes filling muuuuch easier and gives some extra peace of mind knowing it'll take a while for my loop to need a top off.
 
thanks for the response. for the shroud then how could i make one such that i'm able to attach it to the heatercore? and still have it such that the fans are on top. cuz in my picture the only thing lifting the heatercore are the fans. without the bottom fan support the heater core would just lay right against the top of the case.

hmm what are some cheap materials i could use that actually look nicer than cardboard for the shroud.
 
Hey you guys, quick question.

To your best estimates how many/what brand rads do i need to cool two or maybe even three (if they ever get this Physics thing sorted out) 8800GTX's, a 1.45V C2D, and the 680i NB and SB (im actually having over heating issues with them)?
 
MrWizard6600 said:
Hey you guys, quick question.

To your best estimates how many/what brand rads do i need to cool two or maybe even three (if they ever get this Physics thing sorted out) 8800GTX's, a 1.45V C2D, and the 680i NB and SB (im actually having over heating issues with them)?
Click to expand...

Your rad selection is dependent on your stated WC goals which you haven't stated: Looks, performance, how much OC you intend to do, etc. Other than that you might want to consider two separate loops. Otherwise your GPU's will be heating up your MB components.
 
I posted this question in my WC thread but no one answers so I hope I get better results here. I am wondering if I should switch out the plastic fittings on the swiftech for some brass fittings? Is it worth it to spend 6 bucks for two EK or swiftech fittings or just go down to my local hardware store and pick some up?
 
HotGore said:
I posted this question in my WC thread but no one answers so I hope I get better results here. I am wondering if I should switch out the plastic fittings on the swiftech for some brass fittings? Is it worth it to spend 6 bucks for two EK or swiftech fittings or just go down to my local hardware store and pick some up?
Click to expand...

Brass don't crack and leaks are expensive...
 
Top Nurse said:
Your rad selection is dependent on your stated WC goals which you haven't stated: Looks, performance, how much OC you intend to do, etc. Other than that you might want to consider two separate loops. Otherwise your GPU's will be heating up your MB components.
Click to expand...

I do want it to look good, as it is going to be my showcase PC, the ones where when customers walk in the door is like "omfg, what is that monstrosity?". On the other hand, I have yet to see an ugly water loop. I was thinking swiftech blocks. And its ATX right, so the GPU block wont be seen, and I am NOT paying for a full coverage GPU block.

I'd like 40C constant, even if i have to do two loops.

and how much OC do i intend to do? well Im already at 89%... Id like 100 :D
 
Hi all.
It has been 3 years - nearly 4 - that this system (see sig) has been running. The only changes have been a CPU swap from the P4 2.8 to the EE. The Danner Mag 500 pump is starting to get a bit noisy so I was thinking about replacing it. Having bailed on the computer industry, I no longer know the cutting edge hardware like the back of my hand. So - what are todays pump options? Still Danner, Ehiem and Swiftek? Any pull pumps that are popular as opposed to the gravity feed style such as the Danner?
 
Fafnir said:
Hi all.
It has been 3 years - nearly 4 - that this system (see sig) has been running. The only changes have been a CPU swap from the P4 2.8 to the EE. The Danner Mag 500 pump is starting to get a bit noisy so I was thinking about replacing it. Having bailed on the computer industry, I no longer know the cutting edge hardware like the back of my hand. So - what are todays pump options? Still Danner, Ehiem and Swiftek? Any pull pumps that are popular as opposed to the gravity feed style such as the Danner?
Click to expand...

Grab a DDC2 or a MCP655 pump. :)
 
Hey guys I got a question reguarding water flow and tube arrangement in a very tight case.
The case is a Lian Li PC-A05B.
I wanna water cool my rig, but im not sure about the water flow and how to go about it.
The res is a single 5.24" bay.
This is what i was thinking in the picture below.
The green is the tubing and the read arrows signify water flow...
Will this work right?
CPU - X2 5200+
GPU - 8600GTS

1111213007uq2.jpg


red arrows signify water flow
pump: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=201&products_id=21455
 
AMD_RULES said:
Hey guys I got a question reguarding water flow and tube arrangement in a very tight case.
The case is a Lian Li PC-A05B.
I wanna water cool my rig, but im not sure about the water flow and how to go about it.
The res is a single 5.24" bay.
This is what i was thinking in the picture below.
The green is the tubing and the read arrows signify water flow...
Will this work right?
CPU - X2 5200+
GPU - 8600GTS

1111213007uq2.jpg


red arrows signify water flow
pump: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=201&products_id=21455
Click to expand...

Should be fine. Remember that with a single loop like that you will see higher temps on the GPU due to hot water from the CPU outlet feeding in to it.
 
silent-circuit said:
Should be fine. Remember that with a single loop like that you will see higher temps on the GPU due to hot water from the CPU outlet feeding in to it.
Click to expand...

Hmm. I'm not sure if that's exactly correct. The water in a loop doesn't vary much in temperature (at very very most a few degrees). As long as the radiator can dispose of the heat it shouldn't be an issue. It's a myth that there's significantly hotter water coming out of a block, and significantly colder water coming out of a radiator.
 
Hey guys...I'm betting this may have been answered earlier but after doing some searches and reading I cou;dn't really find a clear/close answer so here it goes.

I'm looking at cooling just the CPU (QuadCore Q6600 after the july price cuts ;) ) and will need the block, a rad, res, and pump. I was looking at using the Swiftech H20 120 kit because of cost and the fact that I know it would at least be decent since its swiftech. The fact that its a kit with everything I need doesn't hurt either :p . I am looking at OCing the Q6600 of course...but I figure if people can take quads to 3.1-3.2+ on nice air coolers, a decent OC shouldn't be a problem with this kit.

So how does this sound? Do you guys have better recomendations in the $150-175 range?

Thanks
 
@CocoViper

Of course, how a CPU overclocks is very related to the CPU it self (just getting luckey), and the chipset you put it on. If your overclocking a Q6600 your going to need other components that are up to snuff. The thermal dissipation of the rad, by Swiftechs specs, would be enough to cool a Q6600.

If your planning on overclocking to 3.1Ghz, your going to end up with 350Mhz by 9X. Most components will be able to handle this. Just make sure you get some good DDR2 667 or DDR2 800 for this system.

As for the cooling, a single Swiftech rad with a single 7V fan should cool this thing very well. If you're looking for quieter, go with a dual rad (Swiftech 220) and two Yate Loon fans. Undervolt the two Yate Loon fans.
 
MrWizard6600 said:
@CocoViper

Of course, how a CPU overclocks is very related to the CPU it self (just getting luckey), and the chipset you put it on. If your overclocking a Q6600 your going to need other components that are up to snuff. The thermal dissipation of the rad, by Swiftechs specs, would be enough to cool a Q6600.

If your planning on overclocking to 3.1Ghz, your going to end up with 350Mhz by 9X. Most components will be able to handle this. Just make sure you get some good DDR2 667 or DDR2 800 for this system.

As for the cooling, a single Swiftech rad with a single 7V fan should cool this thing very well. If you're looking for quieter, go with a dual rad (Swiftech 220) and two Yate Loon fans. Undervolt the two Yate Loon fans.
Click to expand...

Well naturally on the OCing info (I've built at least 20 boxes in the last 6 years) your OC is heavily dependent on CPU luck + good mobo, ram, and power choices. But I do appreciate the friendly extra info :) . But yea this is my first WC box though so...good to know that it should handle it ok.
 
COCOViper said:
Well naturally on the OCing info (I've built at least 20 boxes in the last 6 years) your OC is heavily dependent on CPU luck + good mobo, ram, and power choices. But I do appreciate the friendly extra info :) . But yea this is my first WC box though so...good to know that it should handle it ok.
Click to expand...

yeah, well the first thing that popped into my head when you said 3.1Ghz is 450Mhz SDR FSB on an E6300. 450MHz is enough to generate enough heat on 680i to warrent water cooling the north bridge as well as the CPU. The system in sig is technically not stable as even with 680i's active cooling and the fan running at 100%, the thing over heats after four or five hours of CS:S (to that end, if I'm playing for that long it's time I get off anyways :p) On, well, pretty much every other chipset your temps are fine for 450Mhz and the voltage it would require. Remembering the higher multiplier, you'd be totally fine on passive cooling the north bridge.
 
Posted this in another forum, and then remebered.... "Crap! The [H]ard forums have a whole thread dedicated to this!" ;)


I am getting ready to turn my creativity loose on a water cooled rig... and I have some fun ideas. Question for you all... and I dont want to give too much away on the design, but can a single 120mm rad cool a FX-57 that I plan on overclocking? or will it overwhelm it? Would a dual pass 120 help at all?

Also, cooling dual 7900GTX's (that I also plan on overclocking), will a 240 rad work, or do I need a 360?

Also, I've been looking at CPU coolers, and if my CPU cooler is copper, I would want my rad to be copper as well to avoid the whole craptacular event of the 2 metal pissing match... but when I read the specs on the various rads, I see brass cores... am I just not reading the right ones?
What are some good copper core rads out there?

I am planning on a distilled water/pentosin mixture with a smidge of D-Tek dye... but do I still need an anti-fungal? If so, could you recommend a good one?

TIA!!!!
-=TD
 
Using Marci's figures from ThermoChill....

A PA120.1 will do the FX57. The TDP of the processor is roughly 100W. Overclocked you won't exceeed 150W, at the absolute worst, and realistically you're just not going to come near that.

According to his graphs a single Panaflo FBA12G12-H1A will cool it at 7V. If you find out it struggles you can increase the fan voltage.

The TDP for the 7900GTX according to a search is 45W. Double that to 90W and it's less than what the CPU loop needs, the 120.2 is overkill :)

However, an 8800 GTX has a TDP of 172W (EACH!), so if you later upgrade the 120.2 is going to be able to handle that with the same fans, again if it's under heavy heavy load you may need to go higher than 7V. I just don't see it though.

From what I've seen wattage consumed is absolute worst case scenario and real consumption doesn't hit it.

I've heard people talk about mixed blocks in loops - an anti corrosion agent is all that's required to avoid problems. But I've not heard people mention radiators, so I don't know the answer to that one.

As far as anti-fungal, if you are using UV lights it's strongly recommended.

Really I'd just put HydrX in there. I didn't go for it in the upgrade I'm doing, but only because the shops I'm buying from don't stock it. HydrX is UV green though, so it may not be the colour you need.

The best thing to use is straight distilled water, but it doesn't have a huge effect if you use an addative.
 
Thank you Halk... much appreciated. I had read that the "anti-corrosive" makes the water less efficient in heat absorption. You heard any truth to that?

"Yes" there will be UV lighting in the case, so antifungals will likely be needed. Ever heard of a clear antifungal? My liquid in the tubes will be transparent, and if I am not using green, I'll start looking for another choice, but I certainly do not want to cloud up the water.

:)

The rig will likely see an upgrade in the future, so I think the 120.2 will be a good option. Overkill now, but future proofed for my next round of cards.

.
 
Okay so after re-evaluating my shopping list, I replaced a few components to fit a WC setup in. I know this seems like it should be in the General Hardware section, but since it deals w/ water cooling (my first try too) and weighing its pros and cons, I thought I'd post it here instead.

Original List:
P5K Deluxe
Q6600
Ballistix DDR2-800
Raptor X
7200.10 320 GB
8800 GTX
TR Ultra-120

This is what I removed and what I am replacing them with:
WD Raptor X & Seagate 320gb ---> Seagate 7200.10 320 GB
8800 GTX ---> 8800 GTS 640 MB
TR Ultra-120 w/ fan ---> WC setup

That alone cut out ~$445

This is what I came out with as far as my loop:
PA 120.2
Apogee GT
Swiftech MCP655

Before I considered a WC setup, I was looking at the Ultra-120 Extreme.

Do you guys think that swapping out those parts in order to fit the WC setup into my budget of $2000, (less if possible) is a good choice as far as performance, future upgrading (adding NB/GPU blocks) and temperature improvements over the Ultra-120 when overclocking? I guess I should also note that I live in Hawaii, and things get pretty toasty in my room during a good sunny day, especially during the summer.
 
Dra said:
This is what I came out with as far as my loop:
PA 120.2
Apogee GT
Swiftech MCP655

Before I considered a WC setup, I was looking at the Ultra-120 Extreme.

Do you guys think that swapping out those parts in order to fit the WC setup into my budget of $2000, (less if possible) is a good choice as far as performance, future upgrading (adding NB/GPU blocks) and temperature improvements over the Ultra-120 when overclocking? I guess I should also note that I live in Hawaii, and things get pretty toasty in my room during a good sunny day, especially during the summer.
Click to expand...
Keep the block and pump, but you can save some getting a different radiator. PAs are great, but they're also expensive. Swiftech MCR 2x120 or 3x120 will save you a good $50, and if you're no afraid to make your own shroud/mounting system, you can get a 1977 Bonneville heater core that will fit 2x120mm fans just fine for ~$20 (with more work than a factory radiator).

The MCP655 (D5) is plenty powerful enough if you want to add more blocks later on.
 
ikellensbro said:
Keep the block and pump, but you can save some getting a different radiator. PAs are great, but they're also expensive. Swiftech MCR 2x120 or 3x120 will save you a good $50, and if you're no afraid to make your own shroud/mounting system, you can get a 1977 Bonneville heater core that will fit 2x120mm fans just fine for ~$20 (with more work than a factory radiator).

The MCP655 (D5) is plenty powerful enough if you want to add more blocks later on.
Click to expand...

awesome, thanks for the reply :D
 
I'll get straight to the point:

I'm looking to try out a WC setup.

a) to keep the heat down on my CPU, chipset, and GPU (minus the GPU if it adds to much to the cost).

b) to keep the noise down.

c) increased cooling for LIGHT overclocking, nothing crazy.

d) Looks do not matter to me, especially since it will be in a p180 case.

In terms of cost.. I'm lookin to keep it under $200, under $150 if it's possible. And something thats a tad bit easy to assemble, for someone who hasn't done this before.

specs:
e6400 Core 2 Duo 2.13 ghz currently; plan to OC it back up to 3.2ghz where I had it before, completely stable.
Antec p180 (3 hds, 1 optical)
eVGA 8800GTS 640mb
2GB ram

Any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated, especially since I don't want to go out and pick up a random kit that would cost more then the parts bought separately. I looked around a bit and it doesn't seem like there has been someone looking for the kind of setup I need. If it's dangerous or not possible to get a decent setup with my budget, just say so :)
 
I made a purchase from Performance-pc's and they have sent me, what I believe to be the wrong radiator. I ordered a Cooling Works 32t and I have received a Black Ice GTS360

here is a pic of Exactly what the radiator looks like
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/images/products/Stealth_360_01.jpg

rather than looking like this
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/images/products/CoolRad-32T_01.jpg

The box the rad came in was a unlabeled cardboard box, so I really cant confirm one way or another other than by pic alone.

While I realize the radiator I have received is higher priced on their site, I am concerned about the performance on medium speed fans, I will be using some fans similar to Yates on a fan controller. Can anyone confirm a positive or negative performance difference.

I am trying to build a Quiet rig, and I believe the GTS has a much higher fin density and will run much louder.
 
EverestX said:
I made a purchase from Performance-pc's and they have sent me, what I believe to be the wrong radiator. I ordered a Cooling Works 32t and I have received a Black Ice GTS360

here is a pic of Exactly what the radiator looks like
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/images/products/Stealth_360_01.jpg

rather than looking like this
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/images/products/CoolRad-32T_01.jpg

The box the rad came in was a unlabeled cardboard box, so I really cant confirm one way or another other than by pic alone.

While I realize the radiator I have received is higher priced on their site, I am concerned about the performance on medium speed fans, I will be using some fans similar to Yates on a fan controller. Can anyone confirm a positive or negative performance difference.

I am trying to build a Quiet rig, and I believe the GTS has a much higher fin density and will run much louder.
Click to expand...

you can always under voltage your fans with a fan controller.
 
Morning lads.

Just wondering if there's any good guides to pumps about. I really don't know anything about what to look for, what sort of pressure I'd need or... anything else really. Thanks a lot.
 
Hello everyone,

I know this has been asked before, but I can't exactly find a concise answer. I am looking to purchase a new pump for quieter operation, but maintain or increase my level of performance.

I currently am using a 2nd-hand AquaXtreme 50Z. It has gotten more noisy in the past few months or so, possibly due to age. I run a 1/2" ID system with 7/16 ID tubing (yes, I know 3/8 has almost no penalty now, but I built this external enclosure long before Cathar ran the recent tests.

I'm looking at the following pumps: D5, DDC, DDC+. I also see the DDC2, but is that not the DDC+?

Which one is the quietest overall yet yielding at least on-par performance to my AquaXtreme 50Z? I'm looking at the D5 simply because it has 1/2 fittings and has a speed control, thus I can adjust the level of noise.
 
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