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Swiftech kit q's

P

ProOC

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jun 17, 2003
Messages
129
I'm getting a swiftech H20-22500 Extreme Performance kit that includes a MCW5000-A water block for $150.00 is that a decent deal?

I don't have 2 120mm fan holes in the rear of my case for the larger rad and I was thinking about mounting it on the top outside of my case with the fans on top of it blowing down onto the rad, but I was wondering if it being higher than the fill and bleed kit and pump setup that it will effect something. So would it effect anything? :)

I think I read somewhere in the instructions that it would be best to have the fill and bleed kit the highest in the setup.

Also where would be a good place to put it I may have overlooked? I have the antec looking compusa version of the full size case.

Any comments appreciated. Thanks.
 
Not anyone has an opinion on this?

Maybe I should have made the subject "Radiator positioning help".
 
My best tip for you....get rid of the fill/bleed kit and get a bay-res.

I liked that fill/bleed kit until I went res, and now I refuse to even touch the thing again.

www.svc.com has one for $20 that is just great. You can get brass barbs, hose clamps, and teflon thread sealing tape at home depot for about $6, and that will let you use it with your swifty setup.


There is one issue with that res, and it is that it lacks the lower set of mounting holes that is part of the spec for 5-1/4 half height devices. I have talked to their marketing department, and am assured that they will implement this second set of holes during their next production batch. So if you have a case like the antec P-160 that only has lower holes, you may have to use 2 5-1/4 bays for it, but for any case that has both sets of holes, it's all good. Myself, I actually like the spacing, since it allows for easier filling using a plastic beaker I have on hand.

EDIT--

Back on topic...the rad will work, but you have to be careful about air getting trapped in the radiator. Just make sure you bleed the air out very thoroughly before setting it upright.
 
ALmost forgot.

That rad was meant for a large case, so you do have the luck of the draw on that.

One idea to try is to mod the side panel of the case to fit it and your two fans, or you can just mount it to the rear of the case using a shroud (make one) to make an airtight connection to your dual 80mm fan outs but not blocking any usable fin area of your rad. Then just get two nice beefy sunons and you'll have reasonable performance. The last option is rear mount again, but use standoffs to space it far from your case (an inch or two is good), and mount fans to the back of the rad, running the power leads and tubing through some drilled and grommeted holes in your case.

Sure these sound hard, but using a drill isn't all that bad, just measure five times, cut once, and don't rush it. Now using a dremel could be bad news if your not used to one. I'd go with option 3 here, it would be the easiest one.
 
i've got the same swiftech kit (got it for $30 at Fry's :D) I think they normally sell for $199. like someone said earlier, ditch the fill/bleed kit and get a res. it makes filling a piece of cake. as for the radiator, mounting it on the top of your case should work fine, but keep in mind that the swiftech rad doesn't mount the fans to it, so you would have to have the fans mounted to the inside of your case and the rad mounted to the outside. I happened to have 2 92mm fans mounted in the rear of my case, so I bolted the rad over those.

ps. I've got an extra dual floppy bay res if you're interested.
 
Thanks for the info guys this stuff is pretty helpful. I don't mind using drills on my pc etc.. :)

I got some good ideas of how I can do it. One thing though. I was thinking that everyones idea of fans blowing warmer air from inside the case out onto the radiator was not the best way to do it, but maybe it is? Actually it probably doesnt matter considering that currently with my air setup my room temp and my ambient case temp are about the same.

I'm sure I'll make it work some way or another. :D Thanks
 
Also mustang why do you think a res would be better than the fill and bleedz0r kit?

I kinda liked the idea of an enclosed maintence free setup.
 
I found the bleed kit does not do all that good a job at bleeding. I never was able to get all the bubbles out of my loop. WIth the res, I had nearly clear tubes the first hour. A week later, one maintenace fill, and the insides of the tubes....nothing but crystal clear water, it was just beautiful.

Best part, filling it was FAR easier then using that fill/bleed kit. All I had to do was fill the res, tip the case a few times to move som eof the fluid out, and once I got it as full as i could by tilting, I turned ou the pump just enough to get some of the water out of the res and into the loop, then filled it up again, and then turned on the pump, slowly adding water until it was full. As far as the mintenace fill, once you hear a "water splash" sounds coming from your res about every few minutes, it's time to do that fill.

With the fill/bleed kit, I had to apply suction to one hose to get it started (glycol tastes like ass), and once the liquid reaches the other tube, QUICKLY turn on the pump and insert the return tube into the coolant bottle. This is often rather messy unless you use a basin, but I had too many issues with contaminated coolant using the basin. The bleed takes hours to get hte large bubbles out, but to get rid of all of them would take upwards of days. This is ridiculous (to me) to have to sit around with a 2-liter attached to my pc for that long just to have a properly bled loop.


Eventually I bought a siphon pump to do the suction, and was working on a temporary resevoir for the fill/bleed involving a tubing shutoff clamp (pinch shutoff), 2 t fittings, and 2 double shutoff quick disconnects...but at about $140 for that whole kit and caboodle, I decided I needed to look at other options. Once I found out my old Lian-li was too small, I went out and bought a bigger case, at that moment I found out I had enough room for a bay-res finally...problem solved.

The res is maintenace free for the most part.
 
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