Swiftech H20-120 Review Posted

Looks to be pretty much on par with the Maze-4. Although I would be the type of person to chase the extra 2 or 3*C the Maze-4 gets over the H20-120 at an overclocked load. (I run a LRWW) One thing that disappoints me about this block (and the review) is that you can't easily take it apart for cleaning. Anyone using dyes or certain additives will have some degree of deposits in their system over time and I think it's kind of silly to have to melt the brazing to get to the gts of the block. There is no mention in the article of the disassembly factor being a con.

Just my $0.02
 
I like the kit alot, but there are a few down sides like cgrant26 said above being one. The other is that if you buy a XP block and upgrade to say a A64, you'll need to buy a new block instead of just a different adapter because the blocks are different. The pump and the rex are great and the blocks work well on XP systems (I have that block and pump). Installation is always a breeze with Swiftech parts. Over all I really like the kits, just be sure to plan ahead when buying your blocks.
 
I'm new to water cooling, but I want to try it in the near future. This kit looks like it wouldn't be a problem (I'm not an idiot, I am competent in building thing), so I was wondering if anyone had a good suggestion for a video card water block to go with this kit. I have a BFG 6800 OC if it helps.
 
About how much real world noise does that MCP650 make?

I am considering one. Seems strong enough to push through 4 blocks, but am worried about how much noise it might make since it has a similar design to the dangerden that i hear makes quite a bit of noise.
 
I have this kit.. Well one like it. The one with the 2 120fans. Had it for a few months now. This is the first one i ever put together. Was very easy to install, i had no problems at all.

This system has a low humming noise that you can get used to. Maybe the noise is like a small refigerator. Maybe not.. Because i have 4 extra case fans along with the 2 120fans on the double RAD. Still not as loud as my old set up tho.
 
Im currently using the 6002 block for the XP and will be using the same block , with the A64 mounting adaper, on an A64 block shortly. The blocks are identical in every way except for the notch in the XP block for the socket retention mechanism. The block will conmpletely cover the A64 dye so there is no problem wth using it on an A64 even tho Swiftechs site specificly says it wont work. I have talked to a few different people who are already using it.

DO you really need to open up the block to clean it out? You cant just flush it with a serious cleaner or vinegar or something? With proper additives there shouldnt be any growth in there at all.

I cant say about the whole kit but the 6002 block clearly beats out the DD Maze-4 block in every review/comparison Ive seen.
 
hmmm... this kit looks a lot more appealing to me than the koolance exos....

but im still wondering if its relatively safe to move for lan parties... as well as if the pump and radiator work good enough to fit a VGA block and a chipset block

any input = <3
 
its funny, i've heard forum feedback (on specialized WC forums), and people dont seems too pleased with it. you cant open it for maintenance, you cant change de fittings (but that's swiftech...), the finish is perfect, but the block isnt really efficient.

compare it to real industrial waterblocks and it doesnt stand a chance :(

on the other hand its a decent, but expensif watercooling kit (EDIT : for beginers), which would have liked a BIX or bigger...
 
MikeP said:
DO you really need to open up the block to clean it out? You cant just flush it with a serious cleaner or vinegar or something? With proper additives there shouldnt be any growth in there at all.
Click to expand...

The problem I'm talking about isn't growth, it's chemical deposits. When I first built my rig, I used green UV dye and Zerex. Over time, the dye percipitated out of the coolant and deposited in the system. (At this point, I was using the tubing coiled up in an A/C outlet instead of a radiator) When I added the rad, I also cleaned out my system and all the dye that had deposited was like a gummy, jelly like stuff that had to be brushed out of the WW's fins with a toothbrush. I've heard that deposits like this are even worse with additives like water wetter. Anyone wanting to use a dye with this block would be screwed a year down the line when they descover the same jelly like crap in their systems. 2 piece blocks with O-rings have been proven to work just fine so I don't understand why Swiftech wouldn't follow that standard.
 
One thing that I am confused about in this review is where did the Reservoir come from? It is not included in the kit for $219 nor is it sold that way from FrozenCPU. It only makes the kit even more expensive.
 
Snoopster said:
One thing that I am confused about in this review is where did the Reservoir come from? It is not included in the kit for $219 nor is it sold that way from FrozenCPU. It only makes the kit even more expensive.
Click to expand...

that rez is about $17...
 
What I would like to know is what were the radiators and fans used for the other kits that were tested. I believe that the Swiftech kit has the best block and pump but the reported temps didnt show this, so I was wondering what the radiator setups were used for the other two.
 
Snoopster said:
One thing that I am confused about in this review is where did the Reservoir come from? It is not included in the kit for $219 nor is it sold that way from FrozenCPU. It only makes the kit even more expensive.
Click to expand...
The rez is part of the NEW kits, Frozen CPU is selling the old version. You need to check out Swiftechs web site to see what's up to date before you buy somethig that is out of date and over priced.

Swiftech

From Swiftechs web site:


'9-29-04 Product Line Revision: Rev. 2 of the liquid cooling kits is out!

All Swiftech™ liquid cooling kits are now shipping with the new MCRES-525™ 5 1/4" drive bay reservoir:

"The kits' performance, and convenience factors are now enhanced compared to the original series models. This is due to the replacement of the fill-and-bleed kit, by our new MCRES-525 5 1/4" drive bay reservoir, which yields a better overall system flow rate", said Gabriel Rouchon Swiftech's Chairman & CTA.

Never trust ANY retailer. Always check what the manufactors web site for up to date info. There are to many retail sites out there that are more than willing to mislead you on what's current and what's not.

'
 
cgrant26 said:
The problem I'm talking about isn't growth, it's chemical deposits. When I first built my rig, I used green UV dye and Zerex. Over time, the dye percipitated out of the coolant and deposited in the system. (At this point, I was using the tubing coiled up in an A/C outlet instead of a radiator) When I added the rad, I also cleaned out my system and all the dye that had deposited was like a gummy, jelly like stuff that had to be brushed out of the WW's fins with a toothbrush. I've heard that deposits like this are even worse with additives like water wetter. Anyone wanting to use a dye with this block would be screwed a year down the line when they descover the same jelly like crap in their systems. 2 piece blocks with O-rings have been proven to work just fine so I don't understand why Swiftech wouldn't follow that standard.
Click to expand...
so how did you clean your radiator ?
- then clean the wb the same way; it is no more, or less, than the radiator cleaning problem
try not to put crap into WCing systems, they work better
 
BillA said:
so how did you clean your radiator ?
- then clean the wb the same way; it is no more, or less, than the radiator cleaning problem
try not to put crap into WCing systems, they work better
Click to expand...

depends what type of crap ;)
 
CLR will clean it easily. Thats what I use to clean my copper blocks and radiators.
 
BillA said:
so how did you clean your radiator ?
- then clean the wb the same way; it is no more, or less, than the radiator cleaning problem
Click to expand...

Read my post again carefully. ;)

As far as cleaning a radiator, the best you can do is flush it with automotive flushing agent and hot water, although flushing alone won't remove all of these deposits, especially in tight areas. I don't use anything in my system now but Zerex and water. I do think these deposits are far worse for a block than a radiator. The entire structure of a radiator works to remove heat from the water and there is much more area for the water to pass through. More area = less flow restriction. Of course, long term deposits could eventually cripple a radiator too. On the other hand, a waterblock like the swifty one gets the vast majority of its heat exchanging from the high pressure water striking the surface directly over the core, If this area gets deposit build-up, it can greatly reduce the blocks effectiveness. So in summery, you may not be able to remove deposits without brushing them off but it will harm a CPU block much more than a radiator.

try not to put crap into WCing systems, they work better
Click to expand...
QFT
 
Read the review, liked the system, especially the included PSU-friendly 12V pump. My question is about the "all-copper" construction of the waterblock: When the reviewer cut the block open to show the copper pin construction, it looked like there was an U-shaped stainless steel(?)
bracket fit into the pins, to direct the flow to all areas of the surface.

This doesn't necessarily mean it's a problem, but I'm no metallurgist and I'm wondering about unlike metals and galvanic corrosion. Can anyone speak to this?
 
PopSquid said:
Read the review, liked the system, especially the included PSU-friendly 12V pump. My question is about the "all-copper" construction of the waterblock: When the reviewer cut the block open to show the copper pin construction, it looked like there was an U-shaped stainless steel(?)
bracket fit into the pins, to direct the flow to all areas of the surface.

This doesn't necessarily mean it's a problem, but I'm no metallurgist and I'm wondering about unlike metals and galvanic corrosion. Can anyone speak to this?
Click to expand...

you are suppost to put some kind of fluid to prevent oxydation reduction. i personally use icebear fluid.
 
dzitzner said:
It is stainles steel which shouldnt be a problem at all.
Click to expand...

there always is oxydation reduction exept with gold...

the worst stuff you can have is aluminum/copper oxydation reduction. it completely fucks up your waterblock :(
 
I just bought this system from Coolerguys and it's the Rev.2. It should suit my needs well and make for a clean installation in my Lian-LI PC-1200b. I'll report back with pictures once I get the kit installed. For the price, it was hard to beat really. I would have preferred a 1/2" ID system, but hey this one seems to perform pretty darn well and it's not all that pricey. If it lasts me a year or two, then I'll be quite happy.
 
unixadm said:
I just bought this system from Coolerguys and it's the Rev.2. It should suit my needs well and make for a clean installation in my Lian-LI PC-1200b. I'll report back with pictures once I get the kit installed. For the price, it was hard to beat really. I would have preferred a 1/2" ID system, but hey this one seems to perform pretty darn well and it's not all that pricey. If it lasts me a year or two, then I'll be quite happy.
Click to expand...


wait till i've posted my intergration in my v2000 :rolleyes:
 
I like the block alot, IMO, the more compleatly selead the better. I like how it is one peice, and not a bolted on top...

What the deal with the pump, im think of going back to oater cooling when i get my 90nm 64. (the current 64s do just a good on Air, so to took a watercooling break) So is that a good pump? And is is made by someone eles? Who?
 
I(illa Bee said:
I like the block alot, IMO, the more compleatly selead the better. I like how it is one peice, and not a bolted on top...

What the deal with the pump, im think of going back to oater cooling when i get my 90nm 64. (the current 64s do just a good on Air, so to took a watercooling break) So is that a good pump? And is is made by someone eles? Who?
Click to expand...

yeah its made by someone else.

but it is a very good pump.
 
LyCoS said:
compare it to real industrial waterblocks and it doesnt stand a chance :(

on the other hand its a decent, but expensif watercooling kit (EDIT : for beginers), which would have liked a BIX or bigger...
Click to expand...

real industrial waterblocks?
what do you mean?
it seems to me that it performs very well compared to waterblocks/kits from its competitors (dangerden, asetek, polarflo, dtek, etc)


as far as desiring a bigger radiator in the kit, ie a BIX, it's been shown on various watercooling forums that a BI pro outperforms a BI extreme with a fan of that speed/noise
 
snowwie said:
real industrial waterblocks?
what do you mean?
it seems to me that it performs very well compared to waterblocks/kits from its competitors (dangerden, asetek, polarflo, dtek, etc)
Click to expand...

DD, asetek... arent REAL industrial blocks.

swiftech is more expensif and not as good as those german ones (Atotech, 1A cooling). both of them perform extremly well with 20gph !! (eg : eheim 1046). you just dont seem to know them.

snowwie said:
as far as desiring a bigger radiator in the kit, ie a BIX, it's been shown on various watercooling forums that a BI pro outperforms a BI extreme with a fan of that speed/noise
Click to expand...


a BI pro doesnt outperform a BIX in any situation.
the BIX has less pressure drop (about half), more (3x the) surface area. from there on there is no debate.

BillA said:
not a problem, the galvanic potential between cu and ss is slight
Click to expand...


but still existent.from there on there will still be oxydation reduction.
 
"a BI pro doesnt outperform a BIX in any situation"
you have no knowledge of liquid/air heat exchangers (convection is the product of several factors)
without a high air flow rate (41dBA or better), with the same lower noise fans the BI Pro will do better than the BIX

do not spout theory, got some data ?
post it and I'll do the same

"from there on there will still be oxydation reduction"
do explain
can you quantify ?
 
LyCoS said:
DD, asetek... arent REAL industrial blocks.

swiftech is more expensif and not as good as those german ones (Atotech, 1A cooling). both of them perform extremly well with 20gph !! (eg : eheim 1046). you just dont seem to know them.

...

a BI pro doesnt outperform a BIX in any situation.
the BIX has less pressure drop (about half), more (3x the) surface area. from there on there is no debate.
Click to expand...

wait...so what do you mean by "REAL industrial" waterblocks?

i am familiar with german brand waterblocks/kits...but i still don't understand your definition of industrial

by industrial, you mean german brand? that's what you are leading me to believe
or used in applications other than enthusiast PC cooling? i just don't understand what the hell you are talking about.

as far as the rad issue...
what i am talking about is with low to medium speed fans...you know, fans with reasonable (yeah, yeah, arguable) noise levels.
the airflow resistance in a BIX (1.5 in. thick) is far more than a BI pro (1 in. thick), and a low or medium speed fan (ok, lets say 1500-2500rpm) drastically looses effectiveness under high pressures, like that of a BIX....sorry i can't reallly give you much data or information, other than ideas of what I have read (on procooling, i suggest you look at it, a lot to learn on that site), but listen to what bill said, "convection is the product of several factors", and consider airflow over the fins
 
BillA said:
"a BI pro doesnt outperform a BIX in any situation"
you have no knowledge of liquid/air heat exchangers (convection is the product of several factors)
without a high air flow rate (41dBA or better), with the same lower noise fans the BI Pro will do better than the BIX

do not spout theory, got some data ?
post it and I'll do the same

"from there on there will still be oxydation reduction"
do explain
can you quantify ?
Click to expand...

1) i have 4 black ice extremes and 4 black ice pros. i also have 2 BIX2s and 2 heatercores.

i have plenty of radiators, waterblocks, ventilators...

and i can tell you, that the efficiency is not rated in dBA but in cubic feet per minute, or cubic mettres per hour.

the dissipation capacity is defind by the flow resistance (pressure drop), the surface are, and the airflow.
the black ice proo will only be sorta equal to the BIX when the load isnt high (using the same fan, even a snall silent one).

you aparently dont know what you're talking about ;)

and yes i can quantify : very little, but still present.
 
snowwie said:
wait...so what do you mean by "REAL industrial" waterblocks?

i am familiar with german brand waterblocks/kits...but i still don't understand your definition of industrial

by industrial, you mean german brand? that's what you are leading me to believe
or used in applications other than enthusiast PC cooling? i just don't understand what the hell you are talking about.

as far as the rad issue...
what i am talking about is with low to medium speed fans...you know, fans with reasonable (yeah, yeah, arguable) noise levels.
the airflow resistance in a BIX (1.5 in. thick) is far more than a BI pro (1 in. thick), and a low or medium speed fan (ok, lets say 1500-2500rpm) drastically looses effectiveness under high pressures, like that of a BIX....sorry i can't reallly give you much data or information, other than ideas of what I have read (on procooling, i suggest you look at it, a lot to learn on that site), but listen to what bill said, "convection is the product of several factors", and consider airflow over the fins
Click to expand...

by industrial i mean waterblocks that cant be made with a dremel. check out the atotech (which performs better then an RBX, even with an eheim 1046). or even the 1a sl2.


as for the fans, papst fans provide the necessairy pressure. there is no need for a high flow (and noisy) fan. the loss in effeciency of the fan is compensated by the extra surface area.
 
:D Before you dig yourself too deep a hole, you should know that Bill is one of the legendary cooling gods. If he says something, there's been hardcore testing to prove it.

Start reading here and here.
 
OK i just did a little test using :
xice pcp-25 (900l/h)
xice pcp-25 @ 7v (~500 l/h)
eheim 1250 (1200l/h)

BIX2
BIpro

processor => my old 2600+
graphics card x800xt pe


waterblock :
atotech MC1

now. in un-overclocked conditions, i get 0.5 better themps on by black ice pro, bu when i re-measured, it was basically the same temps as the rest.
add on the GPU, this is when it gets funny.
using the same low flow fan (7v papst), i get a full +8 degres (celcius) with a black ice pro.
non OCed.

now lets crank up the vcore to 1.85, boost the fsb and multiplier to 200*12.
the GPU is non OCed.

i get +13 degres on my BIpro (compared to my BIX). still using the same low flow fan.

i have no screenshots since i used senfu-like probes (and i have no camera available, and i have no firewire on my a7n8x delux rev2 for my webcam).

conclusion :

seems like the surface area of the BIX compensates for the lower flow. but it actually does dissipate more.

i'll post pics tomorow (and test it with an A64 3400+)

PS : by the way, the pump made NO difference due too the highly restrictive waterblock
 
HeThatKnows said:
:D Before you dig yourself too deep a hole, you should know that Bill is one of the legendary cooling gods. If he says something, there's been hardcore testing to prove it.

Start reading here and here.
Click to expand...


my black ice pro is a 2 pass one not a 4 pass.

i'll post full test + pics tomorrow.

by the way : i dont care if he's a cooling god. i have my personall experience, and i never was able to dissipate my rig on a black ice pro. with CPU + NB + GPU ( MC1 + homemade + ardex G ) using a xice pcp-25 + black ice pro + papst 4412F / 2M, on an ic7 max3 + 2.8 p4C + r9800pro, i got over 80C... non overclocked. the temp was stable, so the pump was runing , the radiator wasent clogged... then i stuck it on an extrem, temp dropped to 40C.

i'll do a full rang of tests + pics tomorrow.
 
I(illa Bee said:
im think of going back to oater cooling when i get my 90nm 64. (the current 64s do just a good on Air, so to took a watercooling break)
Click to expand...

FYI it looks like the 90nm A64s run even cooler (and use less current) than the ones you & I are using, unlike those 90nm Prescott Hotshots. Not to put a "damper" on your watercooling plans... ;)
 
PopSquid said:
FYI it looks like the 90nm A64s run even cooler (and use less current) than the ones you & I are using, unlike those 90nm Prescott Hotshots. Not to put a "damper" on your watercooling plans... ;)
Click to expand...

yea i was reading that too, but i still think i want to water cool it. Iv taken a long enought break from it im ready to try it again, but this im looking cram it in a small case...at least smaller than my old PC70
 
LyCoS said:
its funny, i've heard forum feedback (on specialized WC forums), and people dont seems too pleased with it. you cant open it for maintenance, you cant change de fittings (but that's swiftech...), the finish is perfect, but the block isnt really efficient.

compare it to real industrial waterblocks and it doesnt stand a chance :(

on the other hand its a decent, but expensif watercooling kit (EDIT : for beginers), which would have liked a BIX or bigger...
Click to expand...

Define Industrial waterblock... This block is far more commercially applicable BECAUSE you cant open it up. Much less to screw up, no chance of leaks, less chance for an RMA for a block that was destroyed by a n00b.

There must be some error in the testing of this kit, as the MCW600x performs admirably on pHaestus's test bench over at procooling... many times better than the maze4 at every level.

Why do you need to change the fittings? If you buy a 1/2" block, you can stretch 3/8" tubing over it.

It is ideal for server farm markets: cheap, maintainance free, potent, easy to install, low profile, ect. The industrial possibilities for this block are far from not being able to stand a chance.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top