Posted here: http://vapor.skinneelabs.com/i7/Round2/XT/R2i7XT.html
Updated Overall Comparison here: http://vapor.skinneelabs.com/i7/Roun...i7Overall.html
Awaiting my Gigabyte modified base plate before I can start up my system again
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Where's the HK 3.0 CU in the chart ???
Where's the HK 3.0 CU in the chart ???
Where's the HK 3.0 CU in the chart ???
Agreed. I'm curious as well...
here wondering where it is as well.
Add yet another to the list.
I've tested the XT every which way till Sunday, and I show it 0.7c behind the HK3 with copper top. The internal pin matrix is chewed up with poor inconsistent milling on the XT, and I can see small pits on the the base that appear to come from casting also.
From what I can tell, the XT is no where near as well made as the GTZ was, but does perform better than the GTZ. That much they got right. Another thing, the XT mounting
system doesn't seem to crank the block down any where near as much as the GTZ mounting system did. You can spin the XT screws down easily to the stops, but you almost always has to use a screw driver to crank the GTZ springs down all the way unless you want to remove skin from the finger tips.
That all being said, I test as "best used", not "as sold" on the other blocks with my own preference of springs, mounting pressure and back plates. So maybe that has something to do with the difference I'm seeing in performance from what others have stated.
The XT is a decent performer with one of the best mounting systems available, but I haven't seen one reason to swap a HK3 out for a XT yet based on any performance or workmanship criteria.
I was much more excited about the GTZ when it first came out and I tested it for Gabe. The XT just doesn't seem to be up the same standard or quality based on the retail version I purchased and tested.
andyc
My block too got some anomalies in the pin matrix, they are in the outer zone - so I don't belive at all that this will affect the blocks performance.
As from I can tell from my 3 days testeing with the block it easily outperforms GTZ and Heatkiller (which I also have both of). During my short tests I am not really sure if I got burnt in the tim enough either - so I might get lower temperatures when I will be finished reconfiguring my system (still awaiting parts so I can start up my mainsystem again ).
I neither had any problem with GTZ's mounting, but I always grease threads like that slightly with silicon tim.
What in God's name are you spreading all over the inside of that waterblock????
What the hell??? It looks like shit on a stick. I can't imagine that is any good for the system as a whole, but what do I know.
What in God's name are you spreading all over the inside of that waterblock????
What the hell??? It looks like shit on a stick. I can't imagine that is any good for the system as a whole, but what do I know.
Agreed,
If you want to try something like creating a bow on a block such as the HK-3, or increasing a blocks bow, there's much easier and cleaner ways of doing it than smearing caulk all over the place. That's just asking for trouble. Some people assume to much without the actual experience it takes to make a substantiated claim, and that's when the trouble starts
andyc
I have been watercooling / phasecooling for some ~10 years - and modded the shit out of "everything". Even made my own waterblocks / and built phasecooler systems - in other words I am not afraid trying new things if it gives me better performance aso.
Main, are you trying to pass this testing off as your own? WTF
You're not the tester....I am (even when I signed up a few years ago, Vapor was taken, meh).
______________
As for why the mod works on the XT, I'm really not sure why it works. When I disassembled the block, the pins went all the way through the silicone (I did a very thin layer--you could still see the o-ring through it), so I don't think much flow goes 'over' the pins. I think it may just increase the velocity of the fluid at the bottom of the pins and creates a slightly different bow--the modification visibly deforms the base on both the XT and the HK3.0. It's also more effective on the HK3.0 and the microchannel's fins don't go through the silicone at all.
Anyway, you should have used a straight edge to wipe away the silicone (can be caulk or RTV or any variety really, just as long as it's 100% silicone) and form a better and thinner surface. If nothing else, a really thick layer will increase restriction a ton.
HK3.0 Cu is in testing right now using the same base from my LT block
Main, are you trying to pass this testing off as your own? WTF
You're not the tester....I am (even when I signed up a few years ago, Vapor was taken, meh).
______________
As for why the mod works on the XT, I'm really not sure why it works. When I disassembled the block, the pins went all the way through the silicone (I did a very thin layer--you could still see the o-ring through it), so I don't think much flow goes 'over' the pins. I think it may just increase the velocity of the fluid at the bottom of the pins and creates a slightly different bow--the modification visibly deforms the base on both the XT and the HK3.0. It's also more effective on the HK3.0 and the microchannel's fins don't go through the silicone at all.
Anyway, you should have used a straight edge to wipe away the silicone (can be caulk or RTV or any variety really, just as long as it's 100% silicone) and form a better and thinner surface. If nothing else, a really thick layer will increase restriction a ton.
HK3.0 Cu is in testing right now using the same base from my LT block
hehe - yes I was very sceptical myself
So before I did put it in my system I tested it in my testrig with a 133watts peltier attached to the waterblock.
The idea is that this mod will hinder waterleakage over the micropins - and I can assure you that it does really work.
That caulk is soft and stretchable and I am 100% sure it wont come loose.
I have been watercooling / phasecooling for some ~10 years - and modded the shit out of "everything". Even made my own waterblocks / and built phasecooler systems - in other words I am not afraid trying new things if it gives me better performance aso.
That's cool..............but it still looks like a baboon's ass............
Well,
After complaining about the hacked up base I received on my retail XT, Gabe was kind enough to replace it with this.
They got some serious QC issues with that base. Large pic to show milling defects.
Needless to say, I was expecting something a little different:rofl:
I agreed to retest and see if the new base would help the XT I have catch up to the HK-3, but the new one I received today looks as bad as the one I have on the XT now. Funny thing is, both bases are hacked up in the same way, and in the same exact place on the pin matrix.
I guess they can say it doesn't hurt performance, but something's either produced correctly with care, or it's not. I don;t buy it either way to be honest. I'll retest and see if I can get the XT with the new base to catch up to the HK-3 which I show 0.7c better than the XT.
andyc
That definitely doesn't look too pretty. I guess I'm a little surprised because the base on my old Apogee GT looks so well made by comparison.
Yep..something's going on and quality has dropped way off from the base on my GTZ. I realize the pins are cut deeper, but still no excuse. With the proper equipment, attention to detail and overall willingness to create something of quality, not that tuff. And it's not like the XT is a cheap block.
andyc
Sadly, I have to agree with you with respect to cosmetics of the replacement plate that we sent you. This is a plate left from our first production run. Two people are involved in sending you this, and I severely reprimended them.
I am sending you this new plate coming from our latest production run, received this week:
I already said so before, but let's be cristal clear again: there will not be any difference in performance. It's purely cosmetic.
For the record, and contrarily to what you are asserting, if there is a Company on the market that cares for quality and attention to detail, and has proven so over and over again in the past 10 years, it is Swiftech. On the other hand, people and tools are not perfect, and constant vigilance is needed to keep us on track. This new pin matrix has been a technological challenge, and comparing it to the GTZ only shows a lack of understanding of this manufacturing process on your part. I can't blame you for that, after all, we certainly don't go about advertising how we do things. Suffice to say that it is a difficult process, and that practice makes perfect.
Now talking about performance, I'd like to know the date at which you conducted your tests with your HK. What I am getting at is this: when you conduct comparative testing, do you validate the performance recorded earlier by running a baseline test? Typically it is always preferable to conduct your comparative testing between blocks back to back.
Can someone detail the exact steps and materials (brand name) you need to mod the XT to improve temps? Also would this void its warranty?
Thanks.
Just got my XT today, but theres something wrong here. Can anyone tell what that is?
PS: I am totally pissed off!
The base is hacked, oh wait there is a missing screw LOL. So much comparison between this POS and the HK 3.0 yet the HK 3.0 beats this crappy cast block in workmanships by several miles. Sadly i don't see the price difference.
On the flip side, you gonna be hard pressed getting tech support from HK in the US while Swifty is here and goes out of the way to keep you satisfied. I assume you already contacted Swifty? And how easy would be it get in touch with someone from HK?
Well, if it's crappy junk, why do you keep buying it? Just avoid swifty stuff from now on lol, that way you'll save on your precious nerve cells