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Sweet sweet Duron lovin'

Wraithblade

Limp Gawd
Joined
Aug 20, 2001
Messages
323
Picked myself up a 1.6 Applebred for 38$ as an upgrade for my aging system. After some minor modifications to my mobo (removing capacitor c37 on a MSI K7T266 Pro2), and doing the mobile mod, it's happily priming away at 2274mhz (17x133) at 1.65v.

It's an MIXJB, week 13 of '04.

I wonder how much more I can squeeze out of it with my two year old 15$ hsf. :D
 
Well I guess that answers that question.

It posts quite happily at 2.4ghz, but hard locks whenever I try to prime, regardless of voltage. Either I've hit the top of where this chip will go, or my heatsink doesn't cut it at those speeds.

Oh well, I still can't complain. 38$ to go from a 1500+ at 1.66ghz to a 1.6 at 2.27ghz.

Guess it's time to watercool.
 
you could watercool, or you could spend another $38 (or so) and get a zalman 7000Cu (the 7000AlCu would be cheaper still)

nice oc you got there though.
 
Wraithblade said:
Well I guess that answers that question.

It posts quite happily at 2.4ghz, but hard locks whenever I try to prime, regardless of voltage. Either I've hit the top of where this chip will go, or my heatsink doesn't cut it at those speeds.

Oh well, I still can't complain. 38$ to go from a 1500+ at 1.66ghz to a 1.6 at 2.27ghz.

Guess it's time to watercool.
you have to use about 2v to get it to run at 2.4 i had mine almost into windows at 2.45 but it got so hot i burned my finger on the heatsink, i too am watercooling here soon
 
Great_Melinko said:
mine runs at about 36=38 with a tr2-m2 hsf, i havent had the time to enable the cache

if you do the cache post here and let us know how it goes...if it works one of these would make a spectauclar value chip
 
It's running around 47-48C, but that's the in socket thermistor, not the on die diode. I might do the XP mod a little later today, since I can't seem to get any more speed out of it.
 
I got all the cache running on Duron 1400 at 11 x 247 using watrchill on 8RDA6+Pro today here using nasty OCZ stix - charmer!!!!!!!!!!
 
I got all the cache running on Duron 1400 at 11 x 247 using waterchill on 8RDA6+Pro today here using nasty OCZ stix - charmer!!!!!!!!!!
 
Wraithblade said:
Argh, two botched attempts at the mod made already, still on 64kb of cache.
use a toothpick nad tape off the other bridges

just a little info, according to sisoft sandra, a duron oc'd to speeds like mine is equal in performance to a 2200+
 
I've already done two of the L5s, and all the multiplier and voltage bridges, and this is the first to give me any real trouble. I can see exposed metal, but even after three tries I've still only got 64kb of L2 cache. I'm hoping I've just screwed up, I may try it again later.
 
Wraithblade said:
I've already done two of the L5s, and all the multiplier and voltage bridges, and this is the first to give me any real trouble. I can see exposed metal, but even after three tries I've still only got 64kb of L2 cache. I'm hoping I've just screwed up, I may try it again later.
some of them just dont work, also the later ones dont work either. so you may have a newer one
 
:(

I tried it again for a fourth time, I'm assuming now that there's something else keeping the cache disabled. I hadn't heard that the newer ones had another locking mechanism (this is the first I've heard of it), but this is a week 13 chip of this year, so it's not exactly an old one.

I pulled the instructions for the mod from a few different places, but depended primarily on this site http://www.cpuheat.wz.cz/html/AXP_multiplier/AXP_Multiplier.htm , which talks about converting desktop chips to mobile chips, for the purpose of changing the multiplier on the fly from within windows. One happy side effect of this is that it allows you to bypass AMDs multiplier lock.

On the newer bridges that have the contacts buried beneath the surface of the processor, the process of closing a bridge is a little different. You actually want to scrape off both sides of the laser cuts with a sharp knife or pin (I suggest a pin), and then fill the pit with conductive ink or paint. Be careful not to cut between the bridges, as there are traces between some of them. Opening a bridge is fairly simple, just find the bridge you want, and make a small cut with either a pin or knife right in the middle of it. It's not particularly difficult, but you can't blow the bridges like you could with the earlier XPs and tbirds.

The L2 cache mod normally requires you to close a single laser cut L2 bridge (yes, one of the bridges marked L2 on the processor), but for me it doesn't seem to be working, for a reason I do not yet know.
 
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