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Stupid move

S

StellaTerra

Weaksauce
Joined
Oct 17, 2008
Messages
67
I might have just done something really stupid.

I wen to the local auto parts store to get something that would derust an old radiator I have, and the helpful sales associate suggested a product called "Permatex Rust Treatment." I bought it and followed the instructions on the bottle as best as I could. I poured a bit of it in the in and out slots, and then I did it again 15 minutes later, turning the rad over to get the various parts of the rad. I was curious though, to see that it left some sort of residue, and the instructions didn't mention anything about clearing the stuff, just letting it dry.
So I went online and looked at a PDF the company put out about the product and...

Holy BALLS! It's paint primer! Those bastards sold me paint primer!

So... now my radiator's insides are covered in paint... I can only assume that this will have adverse effects on thermal performance and eventually clog up the system.

So what do you think I should do? Should I pour turpentine down the spouts now? Is it junked (please say it aint so!)?

Thanks you
 
If the paint hasnt fully dried, pour some turpentine/carb cleaner/goo gone...something strong down there. I have a feeling its not coming out of there very easily though...most likely rad is junk. If the paint is dried though...id say its game over.
 
There would be no guarantees that you would fully clean out the insides of the radiator even after using a paint thinner / acetate. What radiator? Hopefully its not a TC, TFC or BIX.
 
Ok, I found some paint thinner in my basement, I set it down horizontal and filled it to the brim. I hope this stuff can't eat through copper. o.o
 
pdf says it is latex. Water might be your best bet over any paint thinner. Than use rubbing alcohol to eliminate most of the moisture.
 
So you say soak it in water? how long? And then I pour in rubbing alcohol and then immediately pour that out?
Thank you.
 
yep just flush it with water. I'm not too familiar with water cooling just latex paints. Hot water is preferable and the alcohol is optional and just to help dry it out (additional rust prevention). I guess you could use a fan or hair dryer.
 
alright, soaking rad and barbs separately, I guess I'll just replace the water every 20 min while I'm awake, and soaking at all times for a couple of days. Thanks so much structured.
 
Latex paint is removed best with dish soap and water. I would put some liquid dish soap into the rad, fill it up half way with the water, plug the barb holes, and shake it. Then fill it up the remaining space with more water and let it soak all day. If you manage to get chunks of latex paint. or the water coming out is milky white when you empty the rad, you may have a chance at saving it. If that is the case, rinse and repeat.
 
I was going to say, "eh, it will still work ok" but after reading the details http://www.permatex.com/products/Au...nterior_trim/auto_Permatex_Rust_Treatment.htm I think you screwed the pooch on this one.

As a side note, if you mentioned the word "radiator" even once when talking to the autoparts guy, he should be shot, if you didnt, you should be shot.

Bummer man, I cant think of any remedy not mentioned above already, A powerful solvent, and soak the rad in a bucket of it for several days, pray, blow out with compressed air is all I can think of and there is no way you will ever know if some tubes are blocked or not even then. A couple of days in a rad shop's boiling/cleaning tank would not hurt but I doubt it would help. If that stuff bonded to the insides it seems to me almost impossible to get to all out. Hopefully it does not bond well to brass and the solvents do the trick.
 
If you could find a place that has an ultrasonic cleaning tank with some powerful solvent it should clean it right up. Might be cheaper to just buy a new rad though.
 
Ok, I've spent the night soaking in water and when I was awake I'm change the water and scrape the top chamber with a screw driver. Both ways got a bunch of the gunk out. My hope is that the substance was too thick to go down past that chamber. When I've open the little screw hold on the bottom and let out the liquid on that side it has been perfectly clear, which gives me hope.
There have been fewer and fewer chunks so that looks pretty good, but when I tried to scrape out the barbs it was completely hard. I got it mostly off the barbs, but only after manually working it, and I'm not going to be able to do that with the rest of the rad.
Right now I'm soaking the whole thing in vinegar (apple cider vinegar) as this was suggested as a cure for rust. I'll do this all day unless someone waves me off.

So if any of this stuff is left inside when a pump is hooked up, and it's fixed firmly to the sides of the rad, will that fuck up the pump? I just figure moving fluid would prolly do a better job dislodging that stuff than sitting fluid.

BillParrish: He should be shot. I said the words, "Radiator" and "Coat" and "Insides" and he said this stuff would do the trick. I'm about ready to scream in his face.
 
After soaking in soapy water or vinegar and you no longer get chunks or milky water, I would just give the rad a shot. Use an in-line strainer upstream of the pump suction in order to protect the impeller. If temps are acceptable, I wouldn't worry about it and just keep an eye on the filter at first. Over time, the real small stuff may clog up any acceleration nozzles you may have in your CPU block. It won't hurt anything but will need to be cleaned. Keep an eye on temps of your components, as it will be an indication if flow is reduced (plugged filter or block).

http://store.rvdirect.com/rvdirect/details.php?ITEM=0217019
 
Perfect, thanks krylon. Is there any reason I wouldn't just put the strainer directly after the rad and protect the whole system?
You all have been an immeasurable help. I'm just about ready to buy all of the remaining parts and give it a whirl. I'll let you know in a week or so how it goes.
 
Should have gone straight to the solvent. Laquer thinner, acetone(nail polish remover), paint thinner, goof off(xylene based, gooooood shit) or even a citrus based cleaner might have worked. Any of those stronger solvents still might disolve it, and none should hurt the inside of the rad.
 
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