STRIX X670E-E will not power up without power cycling the power supply

Digital Viper-X-

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I have an Asus STRIX x670E-E board that refuses to power up after shutdown, without a full power cycle on the power supply. I was thinking it had to be the board or power supply.

Power supply: Corsair RM1000x(recent 2021 model).
CPU: 7900x


  • Already eliminated case / power switch by disconnecting and using the power button on the board itself
  • Flashed the bios with the latest bios after it started happening
  • Power cycling the power supply (switch off -> on) will allow the power button to work properly
  • Started happening recently, had been working fine for months
Any ideas? I am all out of them apart from swapping boards or power supplies.
 
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I had this issue with my current B650 build with my 7900X. If I shut off my PC I could not turn it back on until I flipped the power switch and/or unplugged it. Turned out to be a dying power supply. Once I replaced it all my issues went away.
 
Well dang, the power supply is not all that old, so still under warranty. I will give that a shot next.

Ty
 
I have an Asus STRIX x670E-E board that refuses to power up after shutdown, without a full power cycle on the power supply. I was thinking it had to be the board or power supply.

Power supply: Corsair RM1000x(recent 2021 model).
CPU: 7900x


  • Already eliminated case / power switch by disconnecting and using the power button on the board itself
  • Flashed the bios with the latest bios after it started happening
  • Power cycling the power supply (switch off -> on) will allow the power button to work properly
  • Started happening recently, had been working fine for months
Any ideas? I am all out of them apart from swapping boards or power supplies.
My brain says get a Seasonic power supply and close thread.
 
Power supplies can bite the dust quickly sadly. I originally bought a 1k evga which died in a few months, but the replacement under warranty was a 1200w psu free upgrade which has been my main psu for 5 years now.
 
Update: I replaced the power supply and the problem disappeared since then until about a week ago when it started again.

I have to assume that it is the power supply since the replacement actually fixed it, but now I am thinking something is nuking it.

It might not be directly related to your problem but have you tried to stress the PSU as hard as you can?

About 800W total I believe is as high as I can go for stressing it.
 
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Update: I replaced the power supply and the problem disappeared since then until about a week ago when it started again.

I have to assume that it is the power supply since the replacement actually fixed it, but now I am thinking something is nuking it.



About 800W total I believe is as high as I can go for stressing it.
Sounds like it's the board then. I've seen this multiple times on all kinds of boards from different manufacturers.
 
Update: I replaced the power supply and the problem disappeared since then until about a week ago when it started again.

I have to assume that it is the power supply since the replacement actually fixed it, but now I am thinking something is nuking it.



About 800W total I believe is as high as I can go for stressing it.

Man, I had my board doing this a few weeks ago. I went around and around with it, turns out the header for the power button was slightly loose. I even went through disconnecting all the fans as I thought I had a short because sometimes it would flicker like it was trying to power on and then die again.
 
Man, I had my board doing this a few weeks ago. I went around and around with it, turns out the header for the power button was slightly loose. I even went through disconnecting all the fans as I thought I had a short because sometimes it would flicker like it was trying to power on and then die again.

Did you figure it out?
 
Did you figure it out?

Yes, like I said it was the power button header where it attaches to the motherboard - it was just barely on the pins so most of the time the plastic was all that was touching. I felt STUPID. I only figured it out because I realized if I laid the case sideways it would turn on lol

Just saying checking the basics can sometimes help, because I changed out my power supply with another I had on hand long before I realized what the issue was. Good luck!~
 
Yes, like I said it was the power button header where it attaches to the motherboard - it was just barely on the pins so most of the time the plastic was all that was touching. I felt STUPID. I only figured it out because I realized if I laid the case sideways it would turn on lol

Just saying checking the basics can sometimes help, because I changed out my power supply with another I had on hand long before I realized what the issue was. Good luck!~

Ahh , One of the troubleshooting steps that I took was to actually unplug it and use the reset button, and even the power on button on the board itself. For me, 100% not the header .
 
Ahh , One of the troubleshooting steps that I took was to actually unplug it and use the reset button, and even the power on button on the board itself. For me, 100% not the header .

Does it just sit dead until you flip the switch on and off (like are there any indications of life like onboard RGB or anything)? Try a different outlet?
 
Does it just sit dead until you flip the switch on and off (like are there any indications of life like onboard RGB or anything)? Try a different outlet?

It just stays dead until I flip it. Good idea, it is plugged into my UPS, could be related. Will try another plug.
 
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It just stays dead until I flip it. Good idea, it is plugged into my UPS, could be related. Will try another plug.

I’ve only ever seen that behavior on very old boards that were degraded and were tripping their own ocp. That sucks. Be curious what you find out.
 
I think I may have solved it.. It seems be related to the cables going into the PSU, I did not swap those out with the power supply. I messed with them yesterday and the system is booting normally again.
 
I think I may have solved it.. It seems be related to the cables going into the PSU, I did not swap those out with the power supply. I messed with them yesterday and the system is booting normally again.

Maybe a loose pin inside the connector? Well, hopefully its something just that easy.
 
OOh, this guy had the same issues... but he said it's due to his CPU not winning the silicon lottery and the IMC can't cut it.

I don't believe this is a CPU/IMC problem but a board problem. I have an Asus B650-A Strix sitting right over there that does this shit, but I can move the same CPU and RAM over to my $125 ASRock board and crank the RAM all the way to 7600mt/s with zero problems. The board only works at default, auto settings. Anything else and you're in for a bad time. Its even better if you put a dual rank kit in it, POST time goes from 45 seconds to 10 minutes even on default settings, meanwhile the same kit on the cheapo ASRock board hits the desktop in less than 10 seconds.

EDIT: I've been digging on this for months now and your thread brought it back to mind so I'm messing with it right now, and I came across a post a while back about Asus in particular ramping up VDDP very high with frequency. AMD spec indicates that at 4800 JEDEC it should be 800mv. My board was ramping it to 1.348V with 6000 EXPO, but VDDP is the I/O controller on the DDR5 module itself and this is very, very high. I am now testing a dual rank kit at 5600mt/s 32-38-38-30 with very tight subtimings and it booted almost instantly after the first training with the following voltages:

VSOC: 1.150
VDDQ/VDDIO: 1.125
VDDP: 0.850

Its been stable for over 30 minutes with OCCT memory test now which I have never, ever been able to achieve with this board before. Previously, if I put it at 5600 it wouldn't even recognize the wifi and audio controllers if it made it to Windows without a bluescreen so I'm wondering if this is just a problem of too much voltage instead of not enough.

IMG_1179.jpeg
 
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Very strange because your spec seems completely fine. What was ASUS customer service reply?
 
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