It depends. Before deciding on a motherboard, look up that specific motherboard and see if anybody says anything bad about the sound. Yes, even in this day and age, there are still boards with supposedly good sound that have issues with popping/crackling due to bad design and/or buggy drivers.so you dont need a sound blaster to game anymore, or listen to decent music, right?
I have one of their Z170 boards, and even with my current set of 300Ohm HD600 cans, it worked very well.I see that asus is advertising good audio for its z270 prime board. Do I still need a separate sound card to get better audio for music and games, or it's just not needed? Nothing audiophile, but still, I don't like crappy popping sound.
I see that asus is advertising good audio for its z270 prime board. Do I still need a separate sound card to get better audio for music and games, or it's just not needed? Nothing audiophile, but still, I don't like crappy popping sound.
No and no.so you dont need a sound blaster to game anymore, or listen to decent music, right?
This is by far the best way to do it - unless you want surround sound which makes it a bit more complicated.I stopped buying sound cards when I started using receiver/amps and speakers for PC audio. Now, I just run an optical cable from the mobo to my DAC.
Well, then you just use HDMI and get unmolested 7.1- I assume that's what you mean by 'complicated', if your video output isn't HDMI, and it very likely isn't.This is by far the best way to do it - unless you want surround sound which makes it a bit more complicated.
No I meant you have to encapsulate the optical output to pass through surround. By standard the SP/DIF optical interface supports stereo only - but there's a workaround. HDMI is not as good as optical because it doesn't galvanically isolate the systems. Ground loop or other nasties can occur (and often will).Well, then you just use HDMI and get unmolested 7.1- I assume that's what you mean by 'complicated', if your video output isn't HDMI, and it very likely isn't.
(unless you're rolling a hodgepodge of stuff like I am, but I only use headphones)
By encapsulate do you mean compress it into a lossy DD/DTS stream? This is what HDMI avoids, and could be worth working through other issues.No I meant you have to encapsulate the optical output to pass through surround. By standard the SP/DIF optical interface supports stereo only - but there's a workaround. HDMI is not as good as optical because it doesn't galvanically isolate the systems. Ground loop or other nasties can occur (and often will).
I encounter computers with shitty audio implementations every day. I'm not sure how you can generalize and say that they are all good now just because you are satisfied with the audio on one specific motherboard that you have. Also, feel free to point out where anyone in this thread has been leading the OP to believe things that aren't true, because i'm not seeing it. OP clearly asked about music also.Ya'll completely missed the question he asked.. Does he NEED one. Absolutely not....
Popping and otherwise crappy audio just isn't a thing these days.... The Realtek chip on my H97i-Plus sounds great with my Swan M200MKII's.
Not a single difference from my old Xonar Essence STX which is a pretty damn good card. (Went mITX so it no longer fits)
The guy is just trying to play games with normal, clean audio. Let's not overcomplicate this for him or lead him to believe something that just isn't true.
You would be better off not generalizing. You can't lump all onboard audio into one single category and call it good or bad. It comes down to how it is implemented on each board. I think that onboard these days can be good, but in the end you have to test it yourself and see if it is good enough for you.Oh, nice with the adapter, but at 60$ if asus makes a nice integrated audio, I guess it's just not worth it, and if I dislike the sound, maybe I should just get an external DAC before my amp I guess. ?
Its just that "onboard audio" was considered crap before, but if it's as decent a a normal sound card now, my understanding is that I don't need one anymore. Thanks guys.
I just can't tell this guy that he's going to NEED another soundcard in good faith...Crystal Sound 3
- Impedance sense for headphone outputs
- 120dB SNR stereo playback output & 110dB SNR input (line-in) support
- Power pre-regulator
- EMI protection cover
- Audio shielding
- De-pop circuit
- Different layer for left/right track
- Japan-made audio capacitors
1. Current card is a Sound Blaster ZxR - still supports Alchemy for EAX on older games.. even in Windows 10.In what way? Saying "much, much better" seems to be an exaggeration to me.
That's a negligible difference, IMO. The amps built onto soundcards are not very powerful, somewhere around 60mw. I had a tube headphone amp that was 220mw.1. Current card is a Sound Blaster ZxR - still supports Alchemy for EAX on older games.. even in Windows 10.
2. SNR is better - Motherboard Realtek ALC1150 115dB - ZxR 124dB
3. Headphone amp that actually can power real headphones
4. Dedicated headphone plug - able to change between speakers and headphones without unplugging/plugging in cables or using a switch box
I'm sure there is more, but that is all I am using at the moment.
If your budget is $500, I'd recommend the Emotiva DC-1 DAC. The things it has going for it over the " Schiit Stack aka. Magni2 + Modi2 " are size and flexibility. it is more compact than something like the Schiit Jotunheim. The DC-1 is fully balanced with both XLR and RCA analog outputs, which I use for a set of powered monitors and an SVS SB16-Ultra sub. It is also a USB DAC and can support up to 24bit/192kHz input using UAC 2.0 drivers for PC. It also has AES, CoAx, TosLink, and BNC digital inputs. Yes. You CAN connect SIX digital sources to the DC-1 and select between them with the included remote. It even has a line-level analog input to connect a PC to it with normal analog output or a turn-table or tape deck. There is an expansion unit available that increases the analog inputs to 3 line-level and one phono-level for high-end turntables. DC-1 has a precision analog gain control with ±-.25 dB precision. As far as headphone amps, you get TWO of them capable of powering planar-magnetic cans. Only real negative is that they use 3.5mm jacks instead of the standard 1/4" jacks. Using an adapter, IMO, puts too much stress on the jacks and you have to be careful not to pull on the headphone cord. It is a plus if your cans have a 3.5mm jack though. My Sennheiser HD 650 cans came with a short cord-type adapter, which works better than those plug-type adapters. The DC-1 doesn't support anything higher than 24bit/192kHz and it doesn't support 1-bit, like DSD. You'll probably want to look at Oppo HA-1 or Sonica for 32bit and DSD support.Can you recommend an affordable DAC?
In that case, a good (and cheap) upgrade to your X-Fi XtremeGamer would be a used Sound Blaster Z sound card. They can go as low as $50 (sometimes even less) on Ebay, Craigslist, and the FS forum here. Creative's Sound Blaster website also has some really good sales from time to time (usually during the holiday season). I had an XtremeGamer, and upgraded to a Sound Blaster Z several years ago -- it was a very big (and very noticeable) upgrade.I'm talking about buying a $50 sound card and you guys are recommending a $500 alternative.
Am I being trolled?
I'm just looking for something equivalent to my XtremeGamer.