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spray painting 101

J

jarthel

Limp Gawd
Joined
Apr 24, 2001
Messages
371
just some questions. thank you very much :)

the case is made out of aluminum.

1. I'm thinking of using enamel and finish it off with clear lacquer. good or bad idea? when do is the right time to apply the clear coat? before or after wetsanding the color coat.

2. the case I'm painting has "U"-shaped cover. this cover makes the top and the sides. The edges are rounded. would it be a problem if I use my finger to sand this rounded edge?

4. some painting guides suggests 2 or 3 coats of paint. do I need to let the coat dry first before the next coat?

anything else you need to add? thanks :)
 
jarthel said:
1. I'm thinking of using enamel and finish it off with clear lacquer. good or bad idea? when do is the right time to apply the clear coat? before or after wetsanding the color coat.
Click to expand...

You should be wetsanding after every "phase". That is, apply several primer coats, then wetsand. Apply your first few color coats, wetsand, apply some more color coats, wetsand, apply clear coats, wetsand, apply "liquid sandpaper", then hand glaze.

jarthel said:
2. the case I'm painting has "U"-shaped cover. this cover makes the top and the sides. The edges are rounded. would it be a problem if I use my finger to sand this rounded edge?
Click to expand...

I'm no expert by any means, but edges and round surfaces are difficult to do. I'm having this same challenge with my current project and I plan on just sanding my edges by hand.

jarthel said:
4. some painting guides suggests 2 or 3 coats of paint. do I need to let the coat dry first before the next coat?
Click to expand...

There's 2 different definitions of "dry". There's letting the paint sit for 24 hours to completely dry, and then there's letting your last coat sit for 15 minutes or so until the surface is dry. When applying multiple coats, you just need to wait for the surface to be dry. Before you start sanding though, you should let it sit out 24 hours or so to really cure your paint.

jarthel said:
anything else you need to add?
Click to expand...

Remember to be using wetsanding paper grits in order 800/1000/1500/2000, and also applying a "liquid sandpaper" (available at auto-parts stores) before you use your hand glaze. Good luck!
 
Please search next time, it has been covered at least 5 times in the past month when I did a search just now.

But, here is an actual guide that I use. It is one of the best guides I know of, and it works for me flawless every time no matter what I'm painting. It was originally for car painting with PaintScratch's spray cans, but also works with any other spray paint, as long as you adapt instructions to whatever your surface is.
http://www.paintscratch.com/spraycan.htm

If you need ANY color spray paint in automotive quality (definetly worth it, prices are expensive but reasonable), they have anything you are looking for. They also sell it in kits of primer, color coat, clear coat, sandpaper, rubbing compound, etc. I order all my paint from there when I am doing a big project and want it to look good.
 
jarthel said:
just some questions. thank you very much :)

the case is made out of aluminum.

1. I'm thinking of using enamel and finish it off with clear lacquer. good or bad idea? >>>>>>)
Click to expand...
Acrylic enamel? Seems to me that will turn out looking like a glazed doughnut, or worse.

What you need is a clear acrylic like this*
 
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