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vick1000
2[H]4U
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2007
- Messages
- 2,443
I noticed several particles under the screen on my 2005wfp, small dust like particles that appeared to be between the sheild and and film. So using the guide for fixing the backlight bleed, I disassembled it and started figuring out how to seperate the front sheild and the rest of the panel. It's just a little conductive tape holding it in place on one side, I have some aluminium duct tape to tape it back down with, so remove the tape from the frame side, and off comes the "glass".
It's important to remember that it only tilts one way, it's obvious really, but it only tilts toward the top of the panel. So I blasted the mirror and backlight off, and there was alot of dust under there. I did not wipe it or anything, I would not recommend that, so there were a few very small particles left (looking closely with an LED flashlight).
So I put it back together (aluminium tape over the old stuff) and put some thin strips of masking tape around the edges to seal it from more dust. I can see how the dust got in there to begin with since there is no seal there at all.
After re-assembley, all the paticles I could see on a white background are gone, and to my suprise several pixels I thought were stuck/ dead disappeared. Not only that, the grainy look on light backgrounds that I thought was a product of the anti-glare, is also gone. I am amazed at the difference. I wish I would have thought to take before and after shots.
A few notes on the dis and re-assembly of the 2005wfp.
1. A plastic wedge shaped object (I used an auto interior removal tool) is best to remove the bezel face. There are only two spots on the bottom to start the process, with the monitor on it's back, press inward and lever up. Once the first latch has popped, just slide the tool along the edge and the rest pop off easily. The corners are a little tricky, but just finesse the tool around the corner to pop the next latch.
2. The control circuit board does not have to be removed from the bezel face. Just follow the wire to where it connects to the panel and flip up the brown latch holding the wire in it's connector. Then remove the tape holding the wire to the panel interior. Then the face comes right off.
3. There are three screws holding a metal shield on the back of the actual panel. Remove those three and the shield to get the metal frame that surrounds the panel off. That shield is over the frame and it will be really hard to get it back on with that shield in place.
4. Be very careful not to bend the frame surrounding the panel, if it gets bent or warped it can put pressure on the film and cause backlight bleed. Too much or too thick tape can cause this too.
Oh well, I hope someone's got the guts to try it.
It's important to remember that it only tilts one way, it's obvious really, but it only tilts toward the top of the panel. So I blasted the mirror and backlight off, and there was alot of dust under there. I did not wipe it or anything, I would not recommend that, so there were a few very small particles left (looking closely with an LED flashlight).
So I put it back together (aluminium tape over the old stuff) and put some thin strips of masking tape around the edges to seal it from more dust. I can see how the dust got in there to begin with since there is no seal there at all.
After re-assembley, all the paticles I could see on a white background are gone, and to my suprise several pixels I thought were stuck/ dead disappeared. Not only that, the grainy look on light backgrounds that I thought was a product of the anti-glare, is also gone. I am amazed at the difference. I wish I would have thought to take before and after shots.
A few notes on the dis and re-assembly of the 2005wfp.
1. A plastic wedge shaped object (I used an auto interior removal tool) is best to remove the bezel face. There are only two spots on the bottom to start the process, with the monitor on it's back, press inward and lever up. Once the first latch has popped, just slide the tool along the edge and the rest pop off easily. The corners are a little tricky, but just finesse the tool around the corner to pop the next latch.
2. The control circuit board does not have to be removed from the bezel face. Just follow the wire to where it connects to the panel and flip up the brown latch holding the wire in it's connector. Then remove the tape holding the wire to the panel interior. Then the face comes right off.
3. There are three screws holding a metal shield on the back of the actual panel. Remove those three and the shield to get the metal frame that surrounds the panel off. That shield is over the frame and it will be really hard to get it back on with that shield in place.
4. Be very careful not to bend the frame surrounding the panel, if it gets bent or warped it can put pressure on the film and cause backlight bleed. Too much or too thick tape can cause this too.
Oh well, I hope someone's got the guts to try it.