so i'm leak testing...

[Momo]

no leaks, thus far...

#1 .
Although, on the fillport of my res see res here should there not be an O-ring for this little black plug?
I can use some paper towel under my fingernail to soak up a little bit of liquid in there, when it's screwed down tight.

Anyone happen to know for sure if there's supposed to be an O-ring?

#2.
Looked for a leak testing guide, no luck. Looked for a bleeding guide, no luck.
Now, I do understand that you dont want bubbles in yer loop ... but how on earth does one get all the air out of this type of resevoir? I've tried tipping it so that the air bubble(s) are around the hole... and adding fluid. Naturally, I can only add so much, before the fluid would much rather flow out the hole than up and around it (displacing air as it went) ...

Is it just not feasable? And... is it okay to have a little air in there? I mean, i've seen pictures of people with Aquatubes 80% full...

Any help would be appreciated, greatly

 

[madmat]

*Grabs bay res out of closet
Yep there's an o-ring on the cap, it's a really thin one, looks to be 1/16" thick or a little less.

To bleed your system you just let it run, maybe move it around a bit and to get as much air out tilt the front of your case as far up as you need to to get the air around the fill port. No, you're not going to be able to get every bit of air out but that's ok, you're aiming to get enough air out so that it won't suck the air back into the system.

I doubt you can see it here but my system ran with nearly a solid 3/16" layer of air covering about 50% of the top area of my res and I had no issues with it getting sucked back down into my system.

I'd deffinitely be for going in search of an o-ring for the fillport though, try an auto parts store or plumbing supply specialty store as they both tend to keep a good supply of o-rings in stock.

 

[Igg]

It's pretty hard to completely remove all air bubbles, but the point of bleeding it is to more or less to stop the annoying sound of air and water going through your tubes, once that's gone, you're pretty much set, though while you're bleeding, remember to add more fluids if required.

 

[madmat]

While the sound of air being sucked through your tubing might get annoying there's a bigger reason to avoid that happening. When there's air getting sucked into your system from the res it's passing through your whole loop and this is detremental to the perfomance of your cooling loop. It can gather in your blocks, your rad(s) and sometimes in your pump and where there's air there's no water making contact with these parts meaning heat is not being exchanged if we're talking about the blocks or rad(s) and in the pump you also stand the chance of cavitation which will lower the pumps ability to move water and also starve the bearings for lubrication and cooling provided by the water and help to cause premature failure.

Air in your loop is a bad thing but as long as the air isn't being drawn into your loop you're pretty much in the clear, just bear in mind that it can take as much as a month to get all the little pockets of air thoroughly bled out of your system so keeping a close eye on your water levels for the first month is pretty crucial, what is ok today might eventually become a problem as more and more air works it's way out of the crevices in your equipment.

 

[Momo]

Thanks a ton fellas

I'll definately upgrade that O-ring... gonna go pull it, have a second look see. heh

thanks! y9ou really set my mind at ease... the system was bled, no air (at least so it seems) within a minute of initial (out of case) leak tests... i guess it's a different story when it's installed, as there's gonna be some fun maneuvering to get it in there properly