Show your PWM cooling

S

silverphoenix

Gawd
Joined
Feb 15, 2006
Messages
780
If you don't have stock PWM cooling show it here. From air to water to whatever. I need ideas even DIY. I need to cool my quad GT's pwm without hacking the stock one. I found only one place that sells waterblocks but it will cost me close to 85-90 USD to get it to me. So Post away!! :D
 
I built one myself - I don't have a picture of the completed model right now - but this was for a high current / 2 banks of 3 FETs PWM for controlling 6 high current peltiers.

PWM2.jpg


PWM5sm.jpg


(for printing on a laser printer / iron transferring to a copper clad board)
 
Right by the I/O, I can't take good pix right now since I have a 120mm fan sitting ontop of the cpu and pwm sinks.

AB9_QuadGT.jpeg


The Thermalright Hr-09 apparently does not fit or work. I have a Giant Heatsink from an amp I can try to hack up, but it's fins are really thick and I don't know how that will affect it.
 
drizzt81 said:
I think he meant ways to cool his pwms..
Click to expand...

Ooooh... that makes more sense.

I thought he wanted to create his own PWM to bypass the one on his motherboard.... heh

In that case, it's the FETs he wants to cool :)
 
I found this from aqua computer, no retailer has it currently since it is new, but I can get it directly from them when it comes in stock. Do you guys think it is worth it? it's also aluminum so I'll probably have to run it in a seperate loop from the cpu block. Possibly having to run alumium block for the NB as well.

26011.jpg
 
I found reworking the heatpipe assembly with proper thermal grease and using standard hardware (screws nuts and bolts ) instead of the crappy pushpins improved the heatpipe operation so well I could not touch it under heavy load, heat was getting transferred much better than stock, a couple of 40 mm fans salvaged from a HD cooler fixed that and its cool as a cucumber.

One issue I discovered is that some heatsinks, ones without a good stiff backing plate will cause the PCB to flex in the area of the CPU, The board is no longer flat, this causes a gap between the MOSFET (the pwm chip is actually a small digital controller chip that needs no cooling) and the heatpipe. I solved this with a stiffener but my layout is different than yours. Some kind of copper or brass shims might close the gap and allow the use of AS5 instead of the crappy thick pads. http://mysite.verizon.net/ressdxka/id3.html


I am fairly sure that heatsink is anodized and should not cause a problem in the loop. But I can not argue against being careful.
 
Hmm I'll try that, Gonna use AS ceramique just in case. I found a glacialtech socket A hsf I was gonna chop up but lemme try to bolt them down instead of pushpin. I need to order some ceramique now.

btw better pix of the setup

10.jpg

26.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top